mqu02

As a quick update, I was able to find one, and it seems these are more difficult to find than I thought they were.

I need the pedestal (or whatever it is called that is between the door and mirror body) for the passenger side rear view mirror on a '69 Mustang. The one I have has the front mounting area broke off it, but the mirror body itself is fine. Since they are two separate parts, I figured I'd ask about that first. If I can't find a good pedestal, I'd be interested in the assembly too if someone has one.

I completely agree with this recommendation, and also recommend a street valved Bilstein setup. I love the set I have, and it was a huge upgrade from what I had before.

Something to take into consideration is the fabric for the interior sail panels goes underneath the rear window weatherstrip (its actually supposed to be glued to the window frame), and they are supposed to be installed before the rear window for this reason. That is about the only way you can get them tight, and there are a lot of '69's on the road today with drooping interior sail panels because this was done wrong.

Wasn’t that the engine oil cooler on SCJ’s? I thought the (auto) trans cooler was only ever built into the radiator?

I didn't realize that, and I'll have to pay more attention to them from now on.

I was just able to check, and I've got one. It's a little rusty, but it will clean up with a little TLC. I have your address and will try to get it in the mail tomorrow.

Will do on the screws, and I’ll let you know for sure when I get home to look.

Jack, I have a few extra lower dashes (also if anyone is interested), and one isn't in very good shape. I am sure the glove compartment catch is OK though, and I will take a look for you. Scott

The part of me that is obsessed with symmetry is having a real hard time looking at this, but probably won’t change it since I’m going with a factory build on this car. I don’t blame you at all for making them both even, and at least visually, this doesn’t appear to have been one of Fords better ideas.

That is exactly the measurement I needed, and thanks so much! This is the first manual ‘69 I have worked on, and it sounds like mine is right where it needs to be.

I know the clutch pedal on a '69 sits higher than the brake pedal, but mine seems to be excessively high now that it is in the car with everything hooked up. Would someone with a clutch & power brakes be so kind as to give me an approximate measurement of how misaligned they are? Mine clutch pedal is currently about 2.75" higher than my brake pedal when measuring from the center of one pedal to the other using a straight edge, which looks completely wrong, and appears to be offset more than the pictures I have seen. This car is still basically a shell yet, so if I need to fix something it shouldn't be as hard. What is odd is that everything seemed to fit together correctly, and everything seems to function like it should. Additionally, I know there is a difference between a manual brake pedal and a power brake pedal, and I have a power brake pedal installed in the correct location. This is a 4 speed toploader car, with the factory style Z-bar configuration, and I can post some pictures too if someone knows these assemblies pretty well. Thanks in advance.

I am pretty sure I used this one on a Mach 1 pop open cap when the repro had too much of a gap when it closed. GASKET Fuel Cap repro on cap to filler. I think I used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to keep it in place.

Yours definitely do look better than mine. This is really hard to take a picture of, but here are a couple pictures of the stiffness mine have, the ones I have, and a close up picture of an OEM version.

The ones on the red car look just like the reproduction ones I have on mine. They don’t lay flat like they are supposed to, and they hold their shape when you open the hood - especially when they are cold. The OEM versions were a lot more flexible, and even at 50-years old my OEM’s are far more flexible than the new repro’s. When you lift the hood, the lanyards should be flexible enough to immediately point straight to the ground. The OEM versions will do this, but the repro’s do not.

I think the problem you are having is because the reproduction lanyards (or the ones I have) are not near as flexible as the factory OEM lanyards were. Has anyone else noticed this, or have a source for a more correct lanyard? (I have a decent OEM set, and there is a huge difference between them).

Thanks for the reply, and sounds like you had the same issue. The 2 pictures I posted show the post on both sides of the Z-bar, and it interferes on both sides. The spring will fit the Z-bar without the post installed, I just really find it odd that it is there in the first place if you are supposed to remove it, and thought I was doing something wrong.

Here is another picture with the post reversed, and hitting the H Pipe, plus having an interference with the bellhousing and block plate.

I am working on a '69 Mach 1, 351W w/toploader and am having an issue with the tension spring (or whatever it is called) that connects the clutch fork spring to the z bar, or equalizer bar. I thought I had the correct z bar for a 351W, and this is the one I have: https://www.npdlink.com/product/bar-assy-clutch-equalizer/105804?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dequalizer%2Bbar%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Everything has fit fine until I put the factory style H-Pipe in, and now I don't have room for the post that connects to the Z bar to hold the other end of the spring. Have I got something wrong on this, or does anyone know what might be wrong with this? (Note: It is kind of hard to see in the picture, but if that post was in its respective hole on the z bar it would be hitting the H pipe, and if I flipped it around 180-degrees it would be hitting the bellhousing and block plate.)

Just throwing this out there as something to think about. JBA makes a complete shorty exhaust system with 2.5" SS pipes that is designed to fit our cars. It probably won't make as much power as a long tube header system, but will be close, and should handle 400 hp pretty easily. It has a great, deep sound, that isn't obnoxious like many out there (you will have no problem having a conversation inside the car). I installed it on my 351, and I have no regrets whatsoever. I am sure you can find this system significantly cheaper than Amazon, and it was just what came up first on my search: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040Z8XRI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050SI59U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5JNTG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't help you with answering how a Shelby style harness works, but FWIW, I had the belts in my cars restored, and they turned out really good. They look & work like new, which is exactly what I was after. There are several companies out there that do this, and I had mine done by Python Restoration. http://www.pythonrestoration.com/

I had a similar problem as you with a repro solenoid I purchased to look correct on the car (battery drain, not turning over, etc). I did some research on the forums and found out the horror stories about the cheaper solenoids available, and purchased a factory Ford Motorcraft unit from NPD (one of the higher priced options available). My problem was solved immediately, and had never came back.

The '69 & '70 heater boxes are virtually identical, and yes, both of them have one design for heat only, and another design that is heat & AC. Those two styles are completely different from each other. Also, yes, the position of the resistor pack that the heater box connector plugs into changes when the box is AC vice non-AC? I have an example of each, and feel free to let me know if you would like a picture of anything.

I'm pretty sure you would need the insulator as the support bracket should be what connects it to the frame. Also, there are two both a big block and small block version of that bracket, and they look virtually identical. The only difference is the position of one of the side holes that connects it to the frame, and it changes the rotation angle of the bracket. if your current motor mount bolts up without binding, you probably have the right one. One last item, these are a lot of threads about the engine sitting too low in these cars. I can't recall ever seeing one about them being too high. The abuse these cars got over the years made it pretty easy for the motor to sit lower in its cradle naturally. One of my cars had been hit in the front, and I spent quite awhile trying to find ways to fix it. I had the same problem as you with the fan hitting the bottom of the shroud, and I had everything adjusted to the max but it wasn't enough.

The factory tach instrument panel has got pretty hard to find, and I am pretty sure they are not being reproduced. I saw one sell on eBay around a month ago for around $900, which seems to be around the going rate. I would watch eBay closely, as well as putting up some wanted ads on the Mustang sites. If you add it, Midlife can convert the main harness, then if you want it factory, you need a different under hood harness, plus a different alternator harness. It isn't a problem if you are replacing those anyway (which usually has to be done), and I would also recommend Tachman if you find a cluster and need it restored.