podiver

Thanks for all the information you presented. Didn't mean to start a war, but the technical info was really educational. I don't profess to be a math wizard, but you taught me alot and gave me enough to put the drop in my car. I am planning for street use (mostly). But I want to be comfortable pushing it through corners it was designed for a little faster and feeling I have control. No mountain passes. Maybe a little track.

With new tubular upper/lower control arms and stock springs would you do the drop anyway? Do the new LCA/UCA (Summit) have the change already built in?

Thanks for the 'back to reality' check. I was getting worried that all my budget was going to go to the front end. I found the 302 Chassis Modifications book: http://www.mustangtek.com/Library2/BOSS302ChassisMod.html and am going to go over this. I've heard about the 1" drop on the UCA. Without taxing my brain too much on the physics(not my greatest subject), what does this do for the ride and feel on the road? Also, would you go to progressive springs? I checked with Summitt and am going with SSBC for the brakes.

Its a 69. Would you upgrade using a Heidts or Fatman with everything in a single package? http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1967-1973-ford-mustang-strut-ifs-conversion-kit/

Thanks 1969 Mach1; I did some more research and it seems that Maier is out of my price range and application (street) but MOOG and OEM are right there. I see what you mean about just replacing the lca. It looks more and more that replacing the uca as well is happening. I know the shocks are bad and I want to change the front brakes to discs. I'm bouncing all over the road now when I drive and I want to teach my son how to drive a stick. Whats your thoughts on the packages for replacing the entire front suspension?

I am new to the forum and recently got a Mach1. I am also new to the technical part of repairs. When I inspected my suspension, I found 1 upper and 1 lower ball joint sleeve leaking grease and planned on getting a rebuild kit for both upper and lower ball joints with the lower attached to the control arm, the outer tie rods, and strut and sway bar bushings. Any benefit to using a tubular lower control arm?