1969_Mach1

I used an ARP engine bolt kit to assembly my motor.  And yes, you usually do not get all the correct length timing cover bolts.  After I figured out what bolts I needed that were missing in the kit, ARP gave them to me.  Don't get the polished stainless steel bolts.  The finish on them is so smooth they keep coming loose.  I haven't had that issue with the black oxide finish bolts.  And the black oxide seems to last without any discoloring or fading.

As far as I know, no.  The pick-up tube attaches to the side of the oil pump.  So, height is not adjustable.  When you buy an aftermarket oil pan, also get the pick-up they recommend.

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

With spark at the coil wire to the dist and not at the spark plugs, typically that points to a rotor or dist cap issue.  But you might also have a weak ignition, bad coil or ignition box.  You know, enough power to spark at the coil wire but not enough for the increased resistance in a spark plug wire and spark plug.
For electronic ignitions test for spark with something like this ignition tester.  You'll notice there is no center electrode in the test spark plug.  If it jumps the big gap then the spark energy is okay.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=tUSRm523&id=D70E594A8A0375D0FAAFBFA36C0F7459FCEE54D1&thid=OIP.tUSRm523zQaXqsNKsquhvwEIEs&q=ignition+tester&simid=608040140826610947&selectedIndex=12&qpvt=ignition+tester&ajaxhist=0
If you were still using the original wiring harness, I'd ask if you had connected the original ignition coil resister wire to the MSD 12V+ as the switched source.  Which would not be correct.  But I see you have replaced the wiring harness.

On the Duraspark distributors, the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms are the same design as your stock points distributor.  So, adjusting them is the same.  If stock appearance is important, externally, the Duraspark and old points distributors look the same.
If you get to a point and decide to try and adjust timing curve yourself, barnett468 on this forum is usually pretty good with that and has talked other members through adjusting it.

Good luck deciding.  If you haven't, you might look to see what Crane offers.  I'd say Mallory as well, but they're now owned by MSD.  When I'm in your situation I go to a long time friend of mine that owns a machine shop.  He can sometimes tell me what's commonly used at the local circle tracks.  Kind of gives me an idea of what's reliable.
Are the new MSD distributors still reliable?  They use GM style advance mechanisms and Ford Duraspark type magnetic pick ups.  Simple, and the better items from both Ford and GM distributors.

If you reuse your old distributor, make certain the bushing is in good condition and the breaker plate is not worn out.  Worn breaker plates are common on older Ford points distributors.  I'm not a Pertronix fan.  But I suspect sometimes they are installed without any regard for the condition of the distributor.
I've had good luck with MSD.  But my MSD ignition parts are about 15 years old and I avoid any of their Street Fire parts.  I wouldn't be surprised if MSD is now manufacturing overseas and the quality has suffered.

Actually, I don't want the high pressure KYB Gas-A-Justs.  I've used them once on another vehicle in the past and didn't like them.  I was hoping these Scott Drake shocks were not as highly pressurized as the KYB's.  The shocks currently on the car I purchased back in about 1998 and they are the 3-way adjustable Gabriel Striders.  One of them will not adjust for some reason.  Even though it ratchets like it's adjusting, it seems to be stuck in the softest setting.  Since those are no longer made, I need 4 shocks.  There doesn't seem to be many options for lower cost shocks that are still better than an OEM replacement.  I have found Koni's street shocks for $65 each at Summit Racing.  Those Koni's might be my best choice, I don't know yet. 

I cannot see the specs very clearly.  But, I agree with some others.  The final alignment should have more positive caster for stability at highway+ speeds.  If the car feels like it wants to wander at highway speeds, it's typically because of not enough positive caster.  The increased positive camber in the final alignment might compensate for a lack of positive caster to help stability.
Been a long time since I did alignments, but without knowing the specs I would have aimed for 2 to 2.5 degree positive caster on the drivers side and about 0.5 degree more positive caster than that on the passenger side to compensate for the crown in most roads.  It might be either he couldn't obtain any more positive caster or he is used to aligning newer cars which only have toe adjustments.
If your idler is original to the car, it would be trash by now and you would need a new alignment person if he missed that and still did the alignment.  I don't think you need a roller idler arm for the way this car is being driven.  In my mind, that might be fine on a track car, but just another gimmick on a street driven car.

True.  3.50 will be slightly too numerically high (ratio too low) for the way you want to drive the car.
Holley's Sniper system does not had provisions for kick down linkage and will not work for your application, I've looked for a future project that has a C6 trans.  Look at Holley's Terminator systems.  They are setup to work with Ford auto trans kick down linkages.

It currently has too much negative camber, more so on the drivers side.  The eccentrics on the lower control arms are already at their most positive camber position.  So, nothing can be adjusted at the eccentrics to help it.  Either:
(1) somebody has mistakenly shimmed the upper control arms
(2) your shock towers are sagging inward which is common on these Mustangs if it has never been addressed
(3) worn ball joints or control arm bushing, but doesn't look likely
(4) the car is simply lowered a little too far with the stock suspension to be able to obtain correct alignment.
It's probably item 4 in the list.  But check the other items as well. 

I changed from a 17" 6-blade flex fan to a 7-blade 17" OEM clutch fan on my car.  I found the fan on EBay and purchased a new clutch from NAPA.  The fan I purchased on EBay was originally used on Cougars and Shelbys with small blocks and A/C.  The 7 blade clutch fan is cools much better than the flex fan ever did and is much more quite..

After getting the additional parts it needed beyond a rebuild kit.  It was actually rather straight forward to assemble.  From the other stuff I've seen you do on this forum, you could have easily handled rebuilding your trans.

Sorry to repeat this.  Yes something might be worn, ball joint, control arm bushing, etc.  But the suspension parts seen in the pictures look fairly new.  I don't understand why the fact the car might be lowered a little too far to obtain correct camber adjustment is being ignored.  That's a fairly common issue with these cars.  You have to remember, these cars have severe camber curves as the suspension travels up and down.  Lowering the upper control arms reduces that some.  So lowering the car drastically changes the camber.
If you don't want to raise the ride height, the other option, like a couple of other members already mentioned, is shim the upper control arms.  To be forewarned, I've seen that done once, then the tires rubbed against the fenders.

You need a drop base air cleaner.  You can buy a K&N 14" diameter drop base by itself.  They offer 7/8" and 1-1/4" drop bases.  Your electric choke on the Edelbrock carb might interfere with the 1-1/4" drop base.  Your fuel line might also interfere with a drop base.  I think Edelbrock makes a fuel line for the carb that drops down for more air cleaner clearance.  With a Holley carb, the 14" diameter combination I have found that provides the most hood clearance is a K&N 1-1/4" drop base, 3" tall filter, and Moroso lid.
You can also simply get a 14" Moroso air cleaner assembly with a drop base and 3" tall filter.  These have a 1" drop base.  Moroso also makes a specific carb to air cleaner gasket to fit their base.  A regular gasket will work but theirs seals a little better.
Whatever combination you try make sure it is from somewhere that has good return policies.  As you know there are hood clearance issues.  But also the choke on your Edelbrock carb can cause fitment issues with drop bases, and sometimes a 14" diameter air cleaner will contact the distributor cap.
Lastly, with drop base air cleaners also check the clearance between the air cleaner lid and top of choke on the carb.

I couldn't hear any noises from the rear axle or trans using my stethoscope with it running on jack stands in any gear.  Probably because of no drivetrain load.  I think I'll go back to the 3.89 rear axle gears that I don't recall having any noise issues with.  I'll post the results after that.

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

Bilstein are nice shocks.  I recall when I was a GM technician at least half of their new cars and trucks came with Bilstein shocks.  The situation I am in is the car already has 560 lb./in. front coils and 5 leaf 200 lb./in. rear leafs.  So I don't want a real high pressure gas shock.  I'd go with adjustable Gabriel Striders again if they still made them, but they don't.  I have found Koni "Street" shocks, as they pronounce it, for $65.00 each at Summit Racing.  They are non adjustable, but, I might go with them.
 
Before I rule out Bilstein shocks, where did you find them?

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

Mine is gloss black.  Gloss black might not be best for all colors but I think it looks good against the Meadowlark Yellow color of the car.  Mine is painted with Acrylic Enamel and is not a base coat clear coat system.  With no clear coat flat blacks tend to (not always) get chalky with age which also contributed to choosing gloss black.
 

 
Just a note if anybody wonders, all the shelving is bolted to the wall.  Everything else that can be anchored to the floor is.  The car is usually covered but I constantly worry about anything falling and hitting it.

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

Yeah, she is a senior Golden Retreiver we adopted.  11 years old now.  Overweight because of a slow thyroid and severe hip dysplasia.  Tons of fur.  Needs cutting every month or so.  She goes on walks every day but you wouldn't know it.  Meds help the thyroid but not as good as you'd expect.  She still manages to squeeze under the car and sleep there every time it's on jack stands.

Again, I had this problem back in early December, it cleared up in January and now it's occurring again.  For about a week now, I can only log into this site about half of the time.  What occurs when I cannot log in is within the log in dialogue box, I cannot enter my username or password.  It is simply blank when I type in any characters.  It seems to occur more often if I am viewing a thread while trying to log in.  It occurs less often if I am on the 69stang home page when logging in.
 
What is causing this as this is absolutely the only site that gives me any issues???
 
Also, how do I stop hackers from liking every thread I create?  I never look at any.  But I keep getting likes from crazy names on extremely old threads.  I'll admit, I have no understanding of the technical operation of these forums but it's obvious this forum need more robust security?
 
Lastly, I am not a smoker, but do we need to have the horrific anti smoking pop up ads by the Center for Disease Control here?  They only pop up here.

I guess where I live machine shop work is just extremely expensive.  Last I checked (several years ago) $300 to bore and hone.  That doesn't include any cleaning before or after.  Then resurfacing the deck is highly recommended prior to boring since the boring eqpt. references also from the deck surface.  Rebuilding cylinder heads can also consume a lot of money.  Especially if any valve guides need replacing or liners installed, or machine work for screw in rocker arm studs is performed.
 
Not trying to be rude, just a little realistic.  Maybe I'm way out of line with pricing.  I just don't see $900 buying all the parts and additional performance upgrades plus still pay for any machine shop work.  I think some compromises will have to be made to stay in that budget.