1969_Mach1

You are probably better off getting used complete harnesses.  I say this because the original door harnesses have a lot of plastic channels that bolt to the inside of the door.  This keeps the wiring from interfering with the window and window regulator mechanism.  New harnesses are fine if you still have all those plastic channels or can also get the plastic channels.
If I recall correctly, those channels are not easily removed from the harness assembly, so they are probably gone as well.  My go to place for stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises.  Some say their prices are high.  But I have only found that to be on the more rare items that are expensive everywhere and not the commonly found items.

Must be nice :)
 

Why do you say they copied you?  It doesn't look like MTF headliner, its made differently and according to you its not as good, so is nobody else allowed to make a 1 piece hahah.  I'm enjoying mine and it looks great, and once again it shipped free so no worries to me on that part.  As for reviews I've seen many that are happy with the TMI one and gripe about MTFs price so I guess its all about perspective and for you since its a competitor you're not happy about it haha.

I also installed a TMI headliner in my 69 Mach 1.  I installed it before both the front and rear glass were installed.  That does make it easier to glue the head liner to the pinch welds and hold it in place with something like pieces of windlace or a lot of small spring clamps and pieces of paint stir sticks.  I installed it on a hot day so the material was easier to work with.  It installed easier than I expected.  You don't really have to stretch the heck out of the material.  I only say that because the first headliner I helped install was in a 1967 sports roof Mustang and it had some wrinkles in it.  After a few months it was fine and snug.  For some reason it seems to fit better with time.
As far as one-piece headliners.  By themselves they look okay and they look fine in modern cars.  But for me, I'm more of a purist, so they look out of place in any car of this time period.

Before twisting of any kind.  I think I would try adjusting the striker inward a little.  Maybe that will get it close enough.  Isn't the typical method, adjust the door to fit the quarter panel and rocker, then adjust the fender to fit the door?

Most are aware the striker will only control the inward and outward position of the rear edge of the door.  But there looks to be a slight twist in a finished painted door because the front fender and rocker alignment are fine.  Either that, or the front fender also needs more adjusting after the door is correct.  By adjusting the striker Topless69GT might be able to obtain a compromise that is acceptable.
These cars are 50 years old and panel gaps were not very good to begin with.  Sometimes you have to pick your battles instead of loosing more hair trying to make something better than it was when new. 

Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty!
If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.

Most are aware distributors advertised as Ready-To-Run mean they do not need any type of external ignition box or external ignition module.  It doesn't mean the timing curve is optimized for your motor.
An original distributor would be okay for a mild motor.  But, be cautious of a used or rebuilt original distributor.  The bushing and breaker plate usually wear out.  Bushings are replaced on rebuilt distributors but not breaker plates.  It's been a long time since I tinkered with stock ford points distributors, but I remember when the breaker plate wears, as the vacuum advance increases the timing, the dwell reduces.  I've seen breaker plates worn to the point that the dwell reduces so much the motor starts misfiring when the vacuum advance starts increasing the timing.

From the gasket imprint on your cylinder heads, it looks like the gasket wasn't covering the tops of the intake ports.  Hence, the large vacuum leaks.  And from the gasket imprint on the intake manifold, you had the wrong intake gaskets for the rectangular shaped water ports on the cylinder heads.  Try the Fel Pro Performance or the Edelbrock intake gaskets I referred to on your other thread. 

From the gasket imprint on your cylinder heads, it looks like the gasket wasn't covering the tops of the intake ports.  Hence, the large vacuum leaks.  And from the gasket imprint on the intake manifold, you had the wrong intake gaskets for the rectangular shaped water ports on the cylinder heads.  Try the Fel Pro Performance or the Edelbrock intake gaskets I referred to on your other thread. 

Sounds like the issue is simply that the stock Felpro replacement intake gaskets that came in the gasket set didn't seal the intake manifold to the heads.  With some luck no damage was done to the rest of the motor and a simple oil and filter change is all that is needed.  Then I think I'd replace the intake gaskets with either the Edelbrock 7220, Fel Pro Performance 1250 or Fel Pro Performance steel core 1250S3 gaskets. 

I get the same message and screen using Microsoft Edge.  To get here I have to do a Bing or Google internet search for 1969stang.com then click on the link that comes up. 

Like Barnett mentioned, first determine where the leak is coming from.  Clean up that mess, run the motor, drive the car a few miles and double check.  I'd also check the trans fluid just to be certain coolant is not getting into the trans fluid from a leaking trans cooler inside the radiator.  These work good for stopping minor coolant leaks and do not clog cooling systems.  They will make the coolant look a little muddy in color.

I realized it was a small block Chevy.  But, I can't believe how they made those exhaust manifolds.  I guess they took a cue from Roadkill.

These guys don't restore like you might be accustomed to.  But, their show, Roadkill, is great.  I watch it every week.  They pulled that Mach 1 out of a wrecking yard on an earlier episode.  They worked on it in the wrecking yard for a few days to get it running and driving and drove it out.

I am assuming you are talking about a 1969 fastback (Sportsroof) model and those came with two spacers fitting between the column bracket and where it attaches to the pedal support under the dash.  It is an aluminum spacer and it is 1" x1" square and I think 3/8" thick and for some reason Ford wanted the column lower on Sportsroof models.  If you remove those spacers the steering wheel will move up about 3/4"-1".  That might be enough to help.  That's what I did on my 1969 Mach 1. 
After you remove those spacers you will need to replace the small trim panel below the column and that round/oval rubber trim piece that fits over the column with those for a coupe.  But, those are being reproduced and relatively inexpensive.  After you are finished. from the engine compartment side of the firewall, make certain the steering shaft is fairly centered in the column.  You might need to loosen the column floor mount and readjust it a little.

I am assuming you are talking about a 1969 fastback (Sportsroof) model and those came with two spacers fitting between the column bracket and where it attaches to the pedal support under the dash.  It is an aluminum spacer and it is 1" x1" square and I think 3/8" thick and for some reason Ford wanted the column lower on Sportsroof models.  If you remove those spacers the steering wheel will move up about 3/4"-1".  That might be enough to help.  That's what I did on my 1969 Mach 1. 
After you remove those spacers you will need to replace the small trim panel below the column and that round/oval rubber trim piece that fits over the column with those for a coupe.  But, those are being reproduced and relatively inexpensive.  After you are finished. from the engine compartment side of the firewall, make certain the steering shaft is fairly centered in the column.  You might need to loosen the column floor mount and readjust it a little.

If you correctly blue the valves i.e. apply it correctly, very thin - tap the valve up and down a couple of times without rotating it and it shows a correct seat, then lapping the valves will achieve nothing extra.

Great news.  In your video, it sounded like the old familiar fuel pump noise.

Unfortunately, steering boxes can not be fully rebuilt, and typically are never as good as new when they are "rebuilt", because the worm gears wear and are not available, and when they wear, the steering will still have play, but some people try to reduce this play by over tightening the adjustment. This being said, a steering box that has play in the bearings will have less play after they are replaced.
If one wants to properly rebuild a steering box that has worn gears, they can send the gears out to have then welded and refaced, however, this is a fairly expensive operation, but it shouldn't need to be done again until long after most of us are dead and buried.
 
 
 

Maybe the fuel pump?  I have heard fuel pumps make that type of noise.  Doesn't sound like valvetrain.  Do you have a mechanics stethoscope?

I agree.  Also, Standard Motor Products use to have a performance line called Blue Streak.  They have brought some of it back.  I have seen Blue Streak spark plug wires and distributor cap on Summit Racing's website.  For an OEM distributor I'd first try to get Blue Streak.  Other than that, Napa's Echlin line is usually fairly good if you just want to walk into a parts store to get it.

If it's a Bendix brake booster after the master cylinder is removed there is a seal in the front of the booster than can easily be replaced.  The brake fluid might have damaged it by now.  The piston rod will sometimes just slip out as well so don't worry if it does.  I've seen those seals on National Parts Depot's website.

I think you at the threshold of needing a pressure regulator.  I don't see how switching from a mechanical fuel pump to an electric fuel pump solved starting issues?  Unless you are like me, the car is not driven often and sometimes the fuel evaporates from the fuel bowls.  Have you checked the float levels with the electric fuel pump?  With it idling, looking down the carb do you see any fuel dripping off the booster venturies (you shouldn't)?
Is the choke opening correctly and ccompletely?  Maybe you have a separate issue and not related to the fuel pump.

@1969_Mach1 Ended up ordering the wheels from Summit.  They beat out CJPony price and delivery.  The tires were ordered from Discount Tire Direct.   CJPony did have best price on center caps and lug nuts though.