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1969_Mach1

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  1. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from TexasEd in Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower Coil   
    Is the only issue running rough when cold?  If so, I'd first double check the choke settings, make certain the choke pull off is working and adjusted correctly, and the fast idle set correctly.  What carb is it and what type of choke setup does it have?
    Could also be a bad spark plug wire or spark plug.  Cold engines put more demand on the secondary side of the ignition system (coil, rotor, cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs) and issues will show up when cold.  Also, under load like hard acceleration or up hills puts more demand on the secondary side of the ignition system.
    I haven't used Pertronix but I have heard many stories of the ignition module burning up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a couple of minutes with the motor not running.  For the 12V coil, you can get a 12V source directly from the ignition switch.  You won't need a relay setup.  Another member here, Midlife, will likely know exactly what terminal to use on the ignition switch.
  2. Thanks
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from ken in lowering compression   
    I don't know what you use for octane booster.  But in interim, until you make any changes to lower the compression ratio, you might try adding something like Torco Accelerator to your fuel. https://torcoracefuel.net/products/torco-accelerator 
    It won't help the heating issue, but might reduce the detonation.
  3. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to det0326 in Fitech vs Sniper vs ?   
    Let me clarify my statement (better than a carburetor} nothing wrong with a carburetor that is set up right. The TBI is probable just a better solution for the younger generation that is not familiar with a carb.  
  4. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to Thin Lizzy in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    A few weeks back I took my Mustang and Challenger along to my Son's school, as there was a car show being held there.
    Here's a photo of the cars:

  5. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Engine, Driveshaft and 3rd Member Angles   
    I have milled 0.200" from the carb pad of a Victor Jr. to gain a little more hood clearance.  I can tell you, the carb pad is horizontal, no slope to it at all.  Why, I don't know.  I wouldn't use that as a reference to set your motor and trans angle.  If you want a level carb pad I have seen some tapered spacers on Summit Racing's website.
    I might have missed something, but it seems when the drop motor mounts are being installed, vibration issues pop up.
  6. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to barnett468 in Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?   
    Your driveshaft goes uphill 2.85 degrees from the trans?
    What is the angle from the pinion to the driveshaft?
    Ideally, the amount of driveshaft angle at the trans and pinion should be exactly the same but in opposite directions. For typical street use, anywhere from 1 1/2 to 3 degrees seems to be fine in my experience. The higher the speed, the straighter the shaft should be providing it is never exactly parallell to the trans and pinion for a prolonged period because the u joints will not "rotate" in this position which can cause premature u joint wear.
    One of the major issues with setting up the driveshaft angle, is that on a leaf spring suspension that does not have a torque bar like a old SS Camaro has, the springs will flex (develop a slight S shaped bow) under load, which allows the pinion to rise.  The greater the load, the higher the pinion will rise, which of course changes its angle relative to the driveshaft. This means that the angle of the shaft will change the harder one accelerates and the faster one goes. The pinion can rise several degrees in some cases, but I typically allow for around 1 - 1 1/2 degrees in rise at freeway speed on standard leaf spring type applications. Some others do it differently but this is the method that has worked for me.
     
     
     
     
     
     
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  7. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?   
    I was under the impression everything but internal engine, the harmonic balancer, or the flex plate were eliminated.  On a side note, after you chase down the vibration it might be a good idea to check the charging system.  The ammeter in the video was dancing all over the place.  Might just be a gauge issue.  But worth checking.
    I've never done this, but is it safe to unbolt the torque convertor from the flex plate, slide the torque convertor into the trans as far as it will go, then run the engine through the same RPM range.  This will eliminate the trans and drivetrain.  Just a thought, don't know how safe it is.  I guess it depends on how much clearance there will be between the flex plate and torque convertor.
  8. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?   
    I haven't had a lot of experience chasing down issues like you are having.  But in my experiences these are items that have contributed to it.  These might not all apply to your issue.
    -  Out of balance wheels or driveline.
    -  Motor mounts and/or trans mount.  This happens more often than you'd expect for odd vibration issues.  These are usually inexpensive and sometimes worth replacing if there is no other obvious cause.
    -  Trans tailshaft bushing worn out.
    -  Universal joints.
    -  Bad tire(s).  More common with road noise than vibration issues.
    -  Bent rear axle(s) or wheel(s) (uncommon).
    I'm not saying rule out the driveline angle.  But unless you changed something in the suspension or drivetrain, I wouldn't think that would be off.
  9. Thanks
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from johnk in Borgeson Power Steering Upgrade Kit   
    I can see hoses being an issue if you have headers.  Borgeson offers longer hoses for headers to help get them up away from the heat.  In my opinion, if you have headers the standard hoses are too short and the long hoses are too long.  I compromised and had a pressure hose made with a length in between those two.
    The hoses Borgeson offers are not as good as what can be made.  But, the quality looks like any other automotive power steering hose.
  10. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from momentum in Removing the shock tower braces   
    The other issue that arises is the shock towers have moved inward at the top.  If that occurs, one work around is to (1) loosen the top fender bolts except the front and rear bolts,  (2)  lift the car with two jacks on the frame where the lower control arms attach to the frame.  Doing this causes the top of the shock towers to move outward. When doing this, loosening the two motor mount thru bolts might help a little as well.  After installing the export brace, retighten the fender bolts and motor mount bolts (if the motor mount bolts were loosened).
  11. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to barnett468 in Stripped sheet metal holes   
    Once again...the screws I mentioned look like the originals. They may also be the same screws that npd is selling but I for one do not know if they are.
  12. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to barnett468 in Stripped sheet metal holes   
    All you need to do is buy the next size larger screw. WURTH sells them. I have done this over 100 times. Bear in mind that they sell them with two different size head choices.
     
  13. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to Ridge Runner in Power steering   
    It is usually the valve ,the idler or tie rods ,but normaly the valve . The valve gas presure to both sides ,when you turn your wheel it alows the hydraulics to assist the direction you turn ,there is always some type of play in this valve that causes the wandering ,i havent had one yet that didnt wander some and if it is worn it will wander all over
  14. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Sub-frame connectors   
    I have the Global West subframe connectors.  I trial fit them and they fit just fine.  I haven't installed them because I cringe at the thought of welding to the bottom of my car that is still all original sheetmetal.
    Here is another brand to consider, Maier Racing.  https://www.maierracing.com/product/mustang-sub-frame-connectors/
    The Tinman connectors look most like they would have been original.  The method of attaching them doesn't look very well engineered.
  15. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Desertdave in Borgeson Power Steering Upgrade Kit   
    I can see hoses being an issue if you have headers.  Borgeson offers longer hoses for headers to help get them up away from the heat.  In my opinion, if you have headers the standard hoses are too short and the long hoses are too long.  I compromised and had a pressure hose made with a length in between those two.
    The hoses Borgeson offers are not as good as what can be made.  But, the quality looks like any other automotive power steering hose.
  16. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Desertdave in Borgeson Power Steering Upgrade Kit   
    I purchased everything from Summit Racing.  I noticed the casting on my steering box casting was an all new one piece unmodified part and looked different than the picture in the online catalog.  I called Borgeson and they told me I had the all new 14:1 steering box and not the older discontinued reman and modified 16:1 box.  This was about a year ago.
    If Summit Racing has what I am looking for I go with them before places like NPD or CJ Pony Parts.  My thought is Summit turns over a lot of products so rarely, if ever, will have old inventory.  They also have excellent customer service for returns and exchanges.  And I am close enough to free ground shipping the next day.
  17. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Desertdave in New lower control arms with defective ball joints!   
    I can believe it.  Last time I used Moog parts, it was tie rod ends on my wife's daily driver.  They lasted about 6 months then were worse than the tie rod ends they replaced, and it was not their cheaper line.  Also, Moog tie rod ends on my 1995 F150 don't last very long.  Less than a year.  I try to get Spicer brand which is now under the Reybestos line.  Spicer (Reybestos) suspension parts look much more robust and seem to last much longer, at least on my cars.  Plus they are and OEM supplier so at least the stuff I have purchased are identical to the original.  Only drawback is they don't offer as many products as Moog.  Moog used to be the best choice for replacement suspension parts.  I don't know if that's true anymore.
  18. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Rear Main Seal 351W   
    I've installed the Fel-Pro one piece gaskets using those plastic studs/guide pins many times with the motor still in the car.  The plastic pins work fine.  They are designed so both the gasket and the oil pan will kind of "snap" over the pins, hold the gasket in place, then also the oil pan in place.
    Aftermarket oil pans typically do not fit very well.  Also, if the timing cover in the front is not centered very well, the entire oil pan will be off a little.  I had that happen after installing a new timing cover.  Early small blocks do not have locator dowels for the timing cover.
    Even with the one piece gaskets you still need a bead of silicone sealer at the front time cover and the rear main bearing cap.
    On my 351W motor, I have had better luck with the rubber rear main seals instead of the viton type.
    Do you have unusually high oil pressure going on?  You do have good engine vacuum and the PCV and breather are setup correctly?  Low engine vacuum and/or improper PCV and breather system will only aid in oil leaks. 
  19. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Shep69 in Shorty Headers   
    Check with CPP, Classic Performance Parts, or Midfifty.  Midfifty is a big F100 parts supplier.  They might sell something that will meet your needs.
    http://midfifty.com/store.php?CAT_ID=994
  20. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to barnett468 in catalytic converters?   
    ...and on the rare occasions that you say you agree with me, I agree with that comment.
     
     
  21. Thanks
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from bigmal in Help with idenfifying my Cam   
    What I started to post earlier but then deleted was that is sounds like you have a pretty good motor and rear axle gear combination right now.  It might be best at this time to simply work with what you have.  Maybe a torque convertor with a slightly higher stall speed to eliminate that lunging when the trans is put into gear.  But with your trans in the condition it's in, you might have to put that of until later as well.  Your current cam should work fine with power brakes.  Keep in mind, sometimes if the carb idle is too lean, the idle speed will have be higher than necessary to keep the motor idling while in gear.  When you eventually get to the point of tuning again, sometimes adjusting the A/F mixture with the trans in gear will help.
    I've only known a couple of people with basically stock 4 barrel Cleveland motors and they had the same complaint as you, not much low end power. 
  22. Thanks
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from bigmal in Help with idenfifying my Cam   
    With my limited experience, I'd say the Crane cam you are removing is fairly mild for a 351 CID motor and would have a smooth idle or very mild rough idle.  If it has a lopey idle, I'd look at something else, too lean, vacuum leak, etc. 
    Your new cam is fairly aggressive and will have a lopey idle.  Is that what you are looking for?  A 600 CFM carb is kind of small for a Cleveland.  This cam will definitely want something larger.  Do you need a 10 degree split duration on a Cleveland?  I'd research that a bit if it were my motor before final cam selection.  Headers + good dual exhaust minimize the need for that split.
  23. Thanks
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from bigmal in Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?   
    For the relatively low price of flex plates, I'd get a new one and make certain it is correct for your motor before balancing.  Just think of the problems that can occur if the flex plate later needs to be replaced.
    I know the machine shop should catch it if you have the wrong combination of parts.  But if they don't and try to balance the assembly you bring, you can yell and scream and blame them all you want.  But, bottom line, the damage will be done and a small mess made worse.  One that you will likely have to straighten out.
  24. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in 69 Fuel Sender   
    I purchased two Scott Drake fuel senders and they were both garbage, didn't work.  Then I purchased a Spectra brand fuel sending unit through Summit.  It doesn't look original, but works perfectly.  Dorman also make one, but not many places stock it.
  25. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to DocWok in Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?   
    Seems like you've already made up your mind, but if it were me and the motor runs ok, I'd just buy a 28oz flex plate and try it.
    It's a lot of extra work to get a engine balanced when it may not be necessary.
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