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1969_Mach1

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  1. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from mwye0627 in Mustang Mach E   
    Okay, I watched the first 35 seconds of that video, it was too painful.  Ford needs to bring in some more experienced designers.  First, the thing is hideous.  Second, it looks like a copy of a vehicle from another manufacturer.
  2. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from capemustang in Looking at Distributors   
    Most are aware distributors advertised as Ready-To-Run mean they do not need any type of external ignition box or external ignition module.  It doesn't mean the timing curve is optimized for your motor.
    An original distributor would be okay for a mild motor.  But, be cautious of a used or rebuilt original distributor.  The bushing and breaker plate usually wear out.  Bushings are replaced on rebuilt distributors but not breaker plates.  It's been a long time since I tinkered with stock ford points distributors, but I remember when the breaker plate wears, as the vacuum advance increases the timing, the dwell reduces.  I've seen breaker plates worn to the point that the dwell reduces so much the motor starts misfiring when the vacuum advance starts increasing the timing.
  3. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Mustang Mach E   
    Okay, I watched the first 35 seconds of that video, it was too painful.  Ford needs to bring in some more experienced designers.  First, the thing is hideous.  Second, it looks like a copy of a vehicle from another manufacturer.
  4. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from bigmal in Running on   
    I'm a little confused as to why it was pinging in the first place with either 98 or 95 octane fuel and only 10:1 static compression ratio.  Is the motor running too lean with that 600 cfm holley carb? Or running too hot?
  5. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Front suspension ideas...   
    I have also done the UCA drop on my Mach 1.  But not for any type of wandering issues.  The UCA drop is to reduce the camber change as the wheel travels throughout it's up and down travel maintaining more tire contact with the road.  It has nothing to do with wandering issues.  I use the stock tire size on my Mach1, 215-70 14 on the original wheels.  I have never had any type of wandering issues.
  6. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in 6R80 transmission   
    The 4R70 is a good trans.  Our old 1996 Mustang GT had.  It went over 300K.  Still worked fine when we got rid of the car.  I serviced it regularly and installed both a shift improver kit and auxiliary cooler when the car was fairly new.  I've installed both Transgo and B&M shift kits or shift improver kits on those transmissions.  In my opinion, the B&M kit has worked better for that particular application.
    However, I don't think the 4R70 was ever installed behind a 351W.  To the best of my knowledge Ford always put the larger E4OD behind 351W and larger motors.
  7. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from KMD88 in How to Start a Carburated Motor in Any Situation   
    Either way is fine.  When I'm not certain if or how much to pump the throttle I will start cranking first.
  8. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from bigmal in Cabin drumming with extractors vs iron manifold   
    What type of mufflers are you using?  Chambered mufflers, especially the small two chamber mufflers tend to cause resonating inside the cabin (more interior noise).  Flowmaster's Delta Flow design chambered mufflers are a little better (less interior noise) than the non Delta Flow chambered mufflers with regards to resonating inside the cabin.
  9. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from KMD88 in How to Start a Carburated Motor in Any Situation   
    Your 600 CFM Holley likely has an electric choke.  They work good, but, one drawback of electric chokes is they cool and reset faster than the engine cools.  After sitting an hour or two the choke might be closed again, then plus some pumping of the throttle causes the engine to flood.  One other possibility is when sitting for an hour or two with a hot engine, the fuel in the carb bowls heats up, percolates and drips into the motor through the circuits inside the carb, thus, flooding the motor.  One of those thick heat insulating gaskets or a phenolic carb spacer will usually stop that from occurring.  The latter situation is more common when aluminum intakes are installed and the heat crossover passage is not blocked.  Another much less common cause of flooding with Holley carbs when the motor sits is leaking metering block gaskets in the carburetor.
  10. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from barnett468 in How to Start a Carburated Motor in Any Situation   
    Your 600 CFM Holley likely has an electric choke.  They work good, but, one drawback of electric chokes is they cool and reset faster than the engine cools.  After sitting an hour or two the choke might be closed again, then plus some pumping of the throttle causes the engine to flood.  One other possibility is when sitting for an hour or two with a hot engine, the fuel in the carb bowls heats up, percolates and drips into the motor through the circuits inside the carb, thus, flooding the motor.  One of those thick heat insulating gaskets or a phenolic carb spacer will usually stop that from occurring.  The latter situation is more common when aluminum intakes are installed and the heat crossover passage is not blocked.  Another much less common cause of flooding with Holley carbs when the motor sits is leaking metering block gaskets in the carburetor.
  11. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to barnett468 in Speedo Noise   
    You can check ebay for a used one.
  12. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Shep69 in Speedo Noise   
    After the dash pad, a few more screws and the instrument panel an be removed.  I was able to cut off the end of the inner cable of an old speedo cable, put in a drill, and operate the speedo on the bench.  Maybe you can rig up something in a drill and check the speedo on the bench.  That's how I found out the noise I had was coming from the speedo itself.  If yours seems okay on the bench, then replace the cable while the dash pad is off.
    If yours is a factory air conditioned car, proceeding like you are by removing the dash pad is the only way to get to the speedo cable.
  13. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Shep69 in Speedo Noise   
    Very well be the cable.  But, I have had a worn speedo make a high pitch metallic chirp-chirp-chirp squeaky noise.  
  14. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Scary Steering Feel   
    Changing the steering box does not affect or change the steering linkage or suspension geometry.  With that in mind, bump steer will not occur from simply changing the steering box. It's probably either the tires like barnet468 mentioned or your steering box was not centered before installing the pitman arm and/or rag joint/steering column assembly.
    After installing my Borgeson steering box, I reset the toe with a tape measure then did a fine centering of the steering wheel with the tie rod adjusting sleeves and it steers just fine.  I didn't increase the caster like is suggested for better steering wheel return to center, but that doesn't bother me.
  15. Thanks
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Door grommet   
    You are probably better off getting used complete harnesses.  I say this because the original door harnesses have a lot of plastic channels that bolt to the inside of the door.  This keeps the wiring from interfering with the window and window regulator mechanism.  New harnesses are fine if you still have all those plastic channels or can also get the plastic channels.
    If I recall correctly, those channels are not easily removed from the harness assembly, so they are probably gone as well.  My go to place for stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises.  Some say their prices are high.  But I have only found that to be on the more rare items that are expensive everywhere and not the commonly found items.
  16. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to 69Stanger408 in Seats   
    Must be nice :)
     
  17. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to whoapony in Who makes the best headliners?   
    Why do you say they copied you?  It doesn't look like MTF headliner, its made differently and according to you its not as good, so is nobody else allowed to make a 1 piece hahah.  I'm enjoying mine and it looks great, and once again it shipped free so no worries to me on that part.  As for reviews I've seen many that are happy with the TMI one and gripe about MTFs price so I guess its all about perspective and for you since its a competitor you're not happy about it haha.
  18. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from SWPruett in Who makes the best headliners?   
    I also installed a TMI headliner in my 69 Mach 1.  I installed it before both the front and rear glass were installed.  That does make it easier to glue the head liner to the pinch welds and hold it in place with something like pieces of windlace or a lot of small spring clamps and pieces of paint stir sticks.  I installed it on a hot day so the material was easier to work with.  It installed easier than I expected.  You don't really have to stretch the heck out of the material.  I only say that because the first headliner I helped install was in a 1967 sports roof Mustang and it had some wrinkles in it.  After a few months it was fine and snug.  For some reason it seems to fit better with time.
    As far as one-piece headliners.  By themselves they look okay and they look fine in modern cars.  But for me, I'm more of a purist, so they look out of place in any car of this time period.
  19. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Door alignment   
    Before twisting of any kind.  I think I would try adjusting the striker inward a little.  Maybe that will get it close enough.  Isn't the typical method, adjust the door to fit the quarter panel and rocker, then adjust the fender to fit the door?
  20. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Door alignment   
    Most are aware the striker will only control the inward and outward position of the rear edge of the door.  But there looks to be a slight twist in a finished painted door because the front fender and rocker alignment are fine.  Either that, or the front fender also needs more adjusting after the door is correct.  By adjusting the striker Topless69GT might be able to obtain a compromise that is acceptable.
    These cars are 50 years old and panel gaps were not very good to begin with.  Sometimes you have to pick your battles instead of loosing more hair trying to make something better than it was when new. 
  21. Like
    1969_Mach1 reacted to Mach1 Driver in What should I fix first?   
    Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty!
    If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.
  22. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from cavboy78 in Looking at Distributors   
    Most are aware distributors advertised as Ready-To-Run mean they do not need any type of external ignition box or external ignition module.  It doesn't mean the timing curve is optimized for your motor.
    An original distributor would be okay for a mild motor.  But, be cautious of a used or rebuilt original distributor.  The bushing and breaker plate usually wear out.  Bushings are replaced on rebuilt distributors but not breaker plates.  It's been a long time since I tinkered with stock ford points distributors, but I remember when the breaker plate wears, as the vacuum advance increases the timing, the dwell reduces.  I've seen breaker plates worn to the point that the dwell reduces so much the motor starts misfiring when the vacuum advance starts increasing the timing.
  23. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from JayEstes in I'm getting dumber by the day - please help   
    From the gasket imprint on your cylinder heads, it looks like the gasket wasn't covering the tops of the intake ports.  Hence, the large vacuum leaks.  And from the gasket imprint on the intake manifold, you had the wrong intake gaskets for the rectangular shaped water ports on the cylinder heads.  Try the Fel Pro Performance or the Edelbrock intake gaskets I referred to on your other thread. 
  24. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in I'm getting dumber by the day - please help   
    From the gasket imprint on your cylinder heads, it looks like the gasket wasn't covering the tops of the intake ports.  Hence, the large vacuum leaks.  And from the gasket imprint on the intake manifold, you had the wrong intake gaskets for the rectangular shaped water ports on the cylinder heads.  Try the Fel Pro Performance or the Edelbrock intake gaskets I referred to on your other thread. 
  25. Like
    1969_Mach1 got a reaction from RPM in Rebuilt 351W starts, runs FAST, then dies - help wanted   
    Sounds like the issue is simply that the stock Felpro replacement intake gaskets that came in the gasket set didn't seal the intake manifold to the heads.  With some luck no damage was done to the rest of the motor and a simple oil and filter change is all that is needed.  Then I think I'd replace the intake gaskets with either the Edelbrock 7220, Fel Pro Performance 1250 or Fel Pro Performance steel core 1250S3 gaskets. 
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