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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. I re-glued mine about 10 years. I couldn't afford to convert to bolt in class. Anyway, since the old glue was completely removed I placed a couple pieces of thin rubber between the glass and channel. These were about 1 inch wide strips. These rubber strips 1) centered the glass in the channel, 2) held it snug in the channel, and 3) prevented any metal to glass contact. I then filled the channel with adhesive leaving the rubber strips in. I don't remember what type of adhesive it was. I got it from a body and paint store. It was messy like the urethane for installing front windshields, but not certain if that is what it was.

  2. If it were mine, I would rebuild or replace the hydraulic components in the brake system, wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder (replace with new only), and replace all the rubber brake hoses. I would also inspect the steel lines and all mechanical parts in the brake system and replace any worn or broken items. After sitting that long, I wouldn't feel safe simply fixing only what is currently wrong with the brakes.

  3. But I will need some type of locking differential though. I've been looking into the Detroit Locker but seeing what yall have been using.


    I am running an NOS Ford 31 spline 4 pinion traction lock. I am happy with it. I looked into using Detroit Locker before going with this traction lock. I did some research and even though the new Detroit Lockers are supposed to be less harsh, regardless of the article or forum the general consensus was on small lighter weight cars, Detroit Lockers make it more difficult to turn the vehicle. The rear wheels tend to keep pushing the vehicle straight as you go through a turn. You have to learn to work around that by not accelerating in a turn. Do some research on your own before deciding what to do. You may find different information.

  4. I agree with barnett468. Connecting to manifold is the last option. Connecting the vacuum advance to ported vacuum like your mechanic did is correct for your situation. The base timing of 10 to 12 degrees BTDC at idle is a good starting point, and will probably be correct, as barnett468 also mentioned. Be certain there is no vacuum at the vacuum advance on the distributor when setting or checking the base timing at idle. If a hot running engine is an issue after these are correct, you need to look at other items, dirty partially plugged radiator, correct fan setup, etc.

  5. I have the iron 4V 63cc heads w/sanderson shorties NOT coated.


    It's not like my hands are catching on fire, but after a while trying to fine tune, the right rear mixture screw is a little tough and the export brace doesn't help either.

    I can try a welders glove.



    I was going to suggest wearing gloves but thought maybe you had already tried. Hardware stores usually have an insulated glove that is thinner and less cumbersome than welders gloves. It won't take much. The uncoated headers are certainly not helping. Like another member suggested, a simple house fan in front of the car to move some air across the engine compartment will make a big difference.

  6. The motor runs 180*, but I have the 4 corner mixture screw set up. Because of the Export Brace being in the way of the right rear adjustment and the heat from the headers and intake, I can only keep my hand there for a few seconds after the motor is fully warmed up.



    I understand. I also run a four corner idle mixture screw setup. Its on a Holly DP, but can still take time to get them adjusted and the export brace doesn't help. Although my motor runs a bit cooler and I don't have the burning heat issue. On the positive side, after you get them adjusted, you will know how far to back them off of seat and future readjustments are simple.

  7. You are correct, Max Power. I didn't even consider that aspect. I can see where the increased leverage from a manual brake pedal would cause brakes to be too touchy on a power brake system. Also, though its been a while since I compared the two pedals, I think based on geometry, the pedal pad on a manual brake pedal will travel further than the pedal pad on a power brake pedal to obtain the same amount of rod travel.

  8. If the threads on the stud actually stripped, I agree, poor quality parts. It sounds from how they tightened when installing like the threads on the studs were not cut or formed correctly. Go with MOOG or Raybestos (formerly Spicer) and not any of the lower grade products they offer.

  9. This post is the first time I've heard of these transformations. I wished I had that skill and talent. The finished fastbacks look flawless. I really didn't know there was that much demand for fastbacks. On a side note, I have wondered (not trying to be negative) how the cost for this transformation compares to the value of the finished transformed fastback? Since, I'm guessing the vin still indicates the finished transformed fastback is a coupe, what affect does that have on its value?

  10. A long time ago a friend of mine had problems removing stuck lifters on a SBC motor while doing a cam swap in the car. What he did was get a piece of cardboard (or box from new camshaft) a least the length of the cam and form it into a U-shape trough that would fit into the cam bearings in the block. He slid the cardboard in and pushed the lifters down from the top. The lifters fell into the cardboard trough. Then gently pulled out the cardboard trough with lifers in it. You may not want to do all the lifers at one time to be a little more care full. This is usually a simple solution to stuck lifter removal problems.

  11. I am considering installing door speakers in my 1969 Mach 1. It looks like the only speaker grill that will clear the window crank is the original or original reproduction grill. I've read there are different window cranks. The cranks I have are listed for std. interior with door speakers or deluxe door panels. I cannot find any window cranks specifically stating for Deluxe door panels with door speakers. As original, my Mach 1 has Deluxe door panels. Am I correct that only the original or reproduced original speaker grills clear the window crank?

  12. The laboring idle sound can indicate your ignition timing is severely retarded. Turning the distributor counter clockwise as viewed from the top retards the ignition timing. And it sounds like that is what you are doing to try to line up the balancer and pointer timing marks. I too don't think it will not run if the timing chain was off one tooth. I have seen old motors with loose chains jump one tooth and they crank strange and will not start.


    Since your balancer is new the outer ring probably has not slipped. You can use a positive stop in number one spark plug and through forward and reverse hand rotations of the crank find TDC and mark the balancer. But, I would double check the balancer and pointer combination, it sounds incorrect. Ford had different setups for 351w motors. A neighbor of mine is in that situation and times his motor by ear.

  13. To follow up. I was thinking of filing a flat spot on the shafts to make them D-shaped for each Ford knob. And after close inspection I discovered the shafts on this RCA radio have flat spots (D-shaped) as well as being slotted. So the original 1969 Ford reproduction knobs fit correctly.

  14. malcolm300,


    If it is still an original Ford Tach that hasn't been retrofitted, then you should get a Ford wiring schematic. I don't know what year you are working with, but the original two wire Ford tachs for 1969 and 1970 Mustangs were wired in series with the pink resister wire going to the positive side of the coil. I've seen these referred to current triggered tachs as opposed to newer voltage triggered tachs. Connecting it wrong can damage the tach. Plus there are also wiring differences going from an ammeter to a warning light.

  15. I like the JME clusters but cannot afford one. I had a factory tach cluster, not original to my car, and used it until the tach quit working. I was never happy with an oil PSI and volt or amp gauge down in a pod on the front of the center console. They were too far out of line-of-sight for my taste. Plus, I wasn't happy with the repair options for the original tach. So I ultimately sold the tach cluster on EBay, reinstalled the original non tach cluster and added an Autometer street tach on the column. I can now easily see all the gauges and the Autometer tach works much better than the original ever did.

  16. I'm not certain about your wood grain discrepancy. In your picture there is definitely a difference between the dash, and door panel and console inserts. On a side note, in a pinch your automatic console will work with a 4 speed. Mine is set up that way in a 1969 Mach 1. Years ago I was told by Perogie Enterprises that even thought they are different, the automatic console will work with a 4 speed but the 4 speed console will not work with an automatic.

  17. Thanks for the offer. This RCA radio has two knobs per shaft, a smaller in front and larger one in back. I saw on EBay the two larger rear knobs for a later Ford, 1974 that looked somewhat period correct and like they will fit correctly. They are NOS being sold by Perogie Enterprises. I'll have to phone Perogie's to find out if they have the front two knobs as well.

  18. Hello,


    I have a restored 1969 Mach 1 and after many years I am finally installing a radio. For me it is more to fill the opening in the dash and having a period correct appearance. So, I purchased a period correct New-In-Box NOS AM/FM 8-track. It is not an original Ford item but an RCA replacement from back in the early 1970's. It fits perfectly and even has correct wiring adapters to connect to the original wiring harness.


    Question: Where do I find knobs for this RCA radio? The original Ford knobs fit D-shape shafts and this RCA radio has round shafts with slots in the middle. I guess you can call them split round shafts. The shafts are the same diameters as the original radio's, just different shape.


    Best Regards,


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