1969_Mach1

If the car had factory A/C I vote to rebuild, restore, repair the original equipment. Particularly the under dash equipment. A more efficient Sanden compressor is fine. Be sure to save any original removed parts.

Wow! That's unbelievable. Ford actually left it up to a technician to drill through finished painted surfaces on top of a fender? Did many cars end up in the body and paint shop after an antenna was installed? How much time was allowed to prep a new car for sale when an antenna installation was involved? I was a technician for a Chevrolet Buick dealer in the mid thru late 1980's. On average, depending on the car or truck, only 1 to 1-1/2 hours was allowed to prep a new car or truck for sale (not including cleaning and detailing by the detail shop) Anything that couldn't be adjusted or fixed in the allotted time was moved to a warranty repair. I can tell you, most of the technicians I worked with wouldn't care much if an antenna was installed correctly or not. Partly why I got out. It was a difficult environment for me to work in.

I'd be furious if I had an original untouched car and got point deductions for some minor difference a judge thought was incorrect. How can the car be any more correct than that? When I was younger I worked as a GM tech for 4 years before going to college. And on those all new cars came in without antennas installed. But they had fixes masts that screwed onto the base. On 1969 Mustangs with manual antennas on the rt. front fender, I've only seen them with a rectangular base and a short non removable lead. The short lead connects to an extension behind the dash such that the dash pad has to be removed to get to it. I can understand leaving an antenna off during transport. But did they go through that effort at a dealer to install the antenna, plus drill mounting holes in a the fender? Like I mentioned, my new fender I purchased from my local Ford dealer came with the antenna holes already in it.

It's funny, I bought a new right front fender so long ago it came from my local Ford dealer. The antenna hole and mounting screw holes were already in it.

Thanks barnett468. The pictures don't have any views that show that.

Most people avoid over boring that much for that simple reason of possible high coolant temps. Is obtaining another 302 block at all feasible?

With a big block you will probably be okay. I would use them before buying anything else. The 620's are typically rated at 550 lbs/in and some say are too soft for a big block. Using a taller profile tire , 60 or 50 series will help soften the ride considerably. Also, try to avoid a stiff shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs. I have them on my Mach 1 with a 351W. Initially, I was skeptical but I installed them because I inherited the car and my brother had already purchased them. I have tall profile tires on OEM wheels and Gabriel Adjustable shocks which both help to soften the ride.

I'd like the roller perches they are not in my budget right now. I can wait. Realistically, I don't drive the car enough or hard enough to need a roller perch. I get more enjoyment working on it than driving it. So I am just looking for an upgrade over the original. The bushings in the Scott Drake perches work like a Polyurethane bushing. They are just a different material to eliminate the squeak tendency of Polyurethane. From the picture it looks like the perch can move side-to-side on the shaft which isn't good. So was hoping somebody may have some experience with them. Funny thing. Years ago when the roller perches hit the market. A friend of mine owns a machine shop and several times I saw 30 gallon barrels full of imported OEM style spring perches. I asked why those were at his shop? His answer was he was removing the OEM rubber bushings. They are for a guy in Carmel that is going to install bearings in them. At the time I didn't realize who or what they were for.

Has anybody used these Scott Drake spring perches? http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C4DZ-3388-HP.aspx?wid=141 They use a synthetic elastomer bushing that allows free rotation of the Perch unlike the rubber OEM style bushings. The description states these will not squeak like a Polyurethane may. I would like to upgrade from OEM but roller perches are not in my budget. When I look at the picture my first question is what prevents the perch from sliding side-to-side a little bit on the shaft?

If I recall, there are a couple different size pins in that bulkhead connector. Are both sizes available and from who, Newark.com as well?

Welcome and good luck. Try to be patient and look for something somewhat desirable. Big block fastback, Mach 1, etc., or if a 1970 fastback or Mach 1, at least with a 4 barrel Cleveland. I can see where your HOA would frown on a car restoration. I friend of mine is in that situation. I don't have an HOA but still get nervous when painting anything other than a small parts.

Glad NPD is replacing the battery for you. I don't quite understand why NPD would claim it cannot leak. I like the looks of the original style battery but am afraid of possible acid leaks. I've had good customer service with NPD, although slow shipping in my opinion.

I didn't know there was a difference. That is the same exhaust manifold I use to have on my 351w motor with a 4sp. I think I still have it tucked away somewhere. I'm hanging on to it in case I ever want to reinstall the stock exhaust manifolds.

Sorry to hear that rharden. I have an older brother that went through that a several years ago for the same reason. Thats a rough surgery. It took about a year to fully recover. Other than frequent follow up check ups his strength, energy and everything else is normal. Keep moving forward!

To a degree I agree. The work and skill level is unbelievable! I wish I had the shop space and equipment to take on a fraction of that! It's a Mach 1 which helps justify the build. This is not the first build I've seen on this site that is this extensive. Again I have to wonder who has the time and budget to take on a project like that. Plus, not much is remaining of the original car. So the end result almost seems like a different car than it was originally. I'm sure the finished car will be like new or better, wow!

I understand. I always do my best to rebuild/restore the original pieces even though they are not clean, bright and shiny like a new reproduction part. As a mechanical engineer I am fairly detail oriented and in my mind fit and function are a priority before form. I wonder on some reproduction parts, they've invested so much effort to reproduce a part, could they have gone a little further and made it a lot better?

It must be tough knowing how original parts fit then trying to install aftermarket parts that are marginal by comparison. I don't know who makes the weather stripping NPD sells, but that's where I bought all the weather stripping for mine. The only issue I had was caused by myself and gluing one door lower weather strip on improperly. I still need to replace it.

He might be referring to the rubber coated blow-out clips that are supposed to help hold the top edge of the window in place when rolled up completely.

The text in the inquiry was clear and I was able to read it. Unfortunately, if their ad specified no refunds, I don't even know if EBay or PayPal (if that was your payment method) would be of assistance. I buy and occasionally sell used parts on EBay and I know its a bit of a gamble when the seller's ad says no refunds. Did the seller have a good feedback rating as a seller? Good Luck.

I don't have a picture. But my 351w 4sp setup use to have stock exhaust manifolds. There is a lot of clearance. It was a little tight for the exhaust pipe with both clutch linkage and power steering but it fits. Make sure you have the correct exhaust manifold like the one mustangmike6996 shows. Also make sure you get the correct Z-bar for a 351W. Both left and right exhaust manifolds and the Z-bar for a 351W are different than a 302. Most people not familiar with 351W's are not aware the Z-bars are different than a 302.

I always use SEM products for interior panels that have textures. It applies in very thin coats and does a fairly good job of preserving the texture. If you are having a difficult time sourcing some used interior panels, I would check with Perogie Enterprises. They are usually more pricey but typically have everything 69 and 70 Mustang related. Their website is not like other Mustang retail parts stores and not the most current so its best to call them.

I'm a believer in repairing and restoring original items before replacing with aftermarket pieces. For the plastic and metal parts I would seek out used pieces and restore them. Go to aftermarket as a last resort. If you haven't discovered, you will soon that most aftermarket items look nice and clean and shiny but are usually not quite right. As for upholstery, I purchased my upholstery and foam from NPD. It was a long time ago, probably 10 years so I don't know if it was the imported material that barnett468 mentions. You will need foam. New upholstery will not fit old worn foam correctly. My door panels came from NPD as well. They look good and match the dash pad but are hard like barnett468 mentioned. My only other reference for door panels were the originals on my older brothers first Mach 1 back in the late 1970's/early 1980's. I remember those being fairly hard as well. Also, my new dash pad is hard matching the door panels and it is a Genuine Ford part that I purchased from my local Ford dealer about 10 years ago. My carpet with underlayment pad is also an NPD product. I'm happy with it. I only insulated where it original insulation was installed and with OEM style reproduction stuff. I didn't use Dynamat or anything like that. Most of my aftermarket items come from NPD mainly because they have a retail outlet and warehouse near where I live so shipping is fast and the least expensive.

There is a current 1969/70 Glass thread on this site. It sounds like somebody recently purchased a couple of coupes and they may be parting them out. Just a thought.

The barrel end stays in mine okay. But I can tell it won't take much to slip through the elongated hole. To ensure mine cannot come out I simply used a wire tie (zip tie) in the hole on the pedal arm. The zip tie takes up enough space in the elongated hole so the barrel end on the cable cannot fit through the remaining opening. With a little creativity you can find a way to prevent the cable end from slipping through the hole. It sounds like the cable ends were crimped on the cable slightly off.

No experience with anything like that. Keep in mind, the further inboard you move the shocks the less effective they will be at dampening body roll. Good Luck. I kind of liked those Koni's fvike referred to. I didn't know Koni offered anything in that price range.