1969_Mach1

Glad NPD is replacing the battery for you. I don't quite understand why NPD would claim it cannot leak. I like the looks of the original style battery but am afraid of possible acid leaks. I've had good customer service with NPD, although slow shipping in my opinion.

I didn't know there was a difference. That is the same exhaust manifold I use to have on my 351w motor with a 4sp. I think I still have it tucked away somewhere. I'm hanging on to it in case I ever want to reinstall the stock exhaust manifolds.

Sorry to hear that rharden. I have an older brother that went through that a several years ago for the same reason. Thats a rough surgery. It took about a year to fully recover. Other than frequent follow up check ups his strength, energy and everything else is normal. Keep moving forward!

To a degree I agree. The work and skill level is unbelievable! I wish I had the shop space and equipment to take on a fraction of that! It's a Mach 1 which helps justify the build. This is not the first build I've seen on this site that is this extensive. Again I have to wonder who has the time and budget to take on a project like that. Plus, not much is remaining of the original car. So the end result almost seems like a different car than it was originally. I'm sure the finished car will be like new or better, wow!

I understand. I always do my best to rebuild/restore the original pieces even though they are not clean, bright and shiny like a new reproduction part. As a mechanical engineer I am fairly detail oriented and in my mind fit and function are a priority before form. I wonder on some reproduction parts, they've invested so much effort to reproduce a part, could they have gone a little further and made it a lot better?

It must be tough knowing how original parts fit then trying to install aftermarket parts that are marginal by comparison. I don't know who makes the weather stripping NPD sells, but that's where I bought all the weather stripping for mine. The only issue I had was caused by myself and gluing one door lower weather strip on improperly. I still need to replace it.

He might be referring to the rubber coated blow-out clips that are supposed to help hold the top edge of the window in place when rolled up completely.

The text in the inquiry was clear and I was able to read it. Unfortunately, if their ad specified no refunds, I don't even know if EBay or PayPal (if that was your payment method) would be of assistance. I buy and occasionally sell used parts on EBay and I know its a bit of a gamble when the seller's ad says no refunds. Did the seller have a good feedback rating as a seller? Good Luck.

I don't have a picture. But my 351w 4sp setup use to have stock exhaust manifolds. There is a lot of clearance. It was a little tight for the exhaust pipe with both clutch linkage and power steering but it fits. Make sure you have the correct exhaust manifold like the one mustangmike6996 shows. Also make sure you get the correct Z-bar for a 351W. Both left and right exhaust manifolds and the Z-bar for a 351W are different than a 302. Most people not familiar with 351W's are not aware the Z-bars are different than a 302.

I always use SEM products for interior panels that have textures. It applies in very thin coats and does a fairly good job of preserving the texture. If you are having a difficult time sourcing some used interior panels, I would check with Perogie Enterprises. They are usually more pricey but typically have everything 69 and 70 Mustang related. Their website is not like other Mustang retail parts stores and not the most current so its best to call them.

I'm a believer in repairing and restoring original items before replacing with aftermarket pieces. For the plastic and metal parts I would seek out used pieces and restore them. Go to aftermarket as a last resort. If you haven't discovered, you will soon that most aftermarket items look nice and clean and shiny but are usually not quite right. As for upholstery, I purchased my upholstery and foam from NPD. It was a long time ago, probably 10 years so I don't know if it was the imported material that barnett468 mentions. You will need foam. New upholstery will not fit old worn foam correctly. My door panels came from NPD as well. They look good and match the dash pad but are hard like barnett468 mentioned. My only other reference for door panels were the originals on my older brothers first Mach 1 back in the late 1970's/early 1980's. I remember those being fairly hard as well. Also, my new dash pad is hard matching the door panels and it is a Genuine Ford part that I purchased from my local Ford dealer about 10 years ago. My carpet with underlayment pad is also an NPD product. I'm happy with it. I only insulated where it original insulation was installed and with OEM style reproduction stuff. I didn't use Dynamat or anything like that. Most of my aftermarket items come from NPD mainly because they have a retail outlet and warehouse near where I live so shipping is fast and the least expensive.

There is a current 1969/70 Glass thread on this site. It sounds like somebody recently purchased a couple of coupes and they may be parting them out. Just a thought.

The barrel end stays in mine okay. But I can tell it won't take much to slip through the elongated hole. To ensure mine cannot come out I simply used a wire tie (zip tie) in the hole on the pedal arm. The zip tie takes up enough space in the elongated hole so the barrel end on the cable cannot fit through the remaining opening. With a little creativity you can find a way to prevent the cable end from slipping through the hole. It sounds like the cable ends were crimped on the cable slightly off.

No experience with anything like that. Keep in mind, the further inboard you move the shocks the less effective they will be at dampening body roll. Good Luck. I kind of liked those Koni's fvike referred to. I didn't know Koni offered anything in that price range.

Quick follow up: Well I phoned Perogie Enterprise prepared to purchase a different cross member for mine. I explained the situation that the cross member I have was from a 69 Mustang with a C4 and it is now on a 4sp. They told me it is correct for my combination, 4sp. and 351W. I didn't inquire about an FMX cross member.

My experience with KYB Gas Adjust shocks is this. When I was younger I put them on a 4wd Ford Ranger long bed pick up. This was back when the KYB Gas Adjust shocks were just hitting the market and the high pressure gas was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread. The truck was stock with the 2" lift option offered from the factory. With these shocks it had a bone jarring ride. You could feel every crack and pebble on the road. Pot holes, railroad tracks were horrible. After about a month of that I replaced them. This was back before mail order was easy so I went to a local 4wd shop. After telling them what I was removing they showed me broken shock mounts from a customers pick up that had these KYB Gas Adjust shocks. In my opinion, KYB Gad Adjusts are garbage. I don't know why some places bundle them with suspension kits. Regardless of your suspension, KYB Gas Adjusts will make the ride more harsh. If you swapped them out the ride quality will probably get a little softer. Gabriel Adjustable E's use to be a popular low end performance shock but have long been discontinued.

After some research I believe your second cross member is correct as you stated. It just dawned on me why mine looks like your first cross member and my Mach 1 is a 351w and FMX trans car. I inherited this Mach 1 from an older brother. He initially had a 69 fastback with a C4 trans and was doing a restomod type of restoration. In the process he purchased the 69 Mach 1 from the original owner because it was in better condition and decided to scrap the 69 fastback project. However the previous owner had removed the motor and trans from the Mach 1 and sold the long block. Ultimately, I ended with both cars and both were dismantled to the shell with the Mach 1 on dollies. Since I was only able to locate one trans cross member it must have been from the fastback with the C4 trans. The original FMX cross member was either lost or my brother never got it from the previous owner. Off hand, Perogie Enterprise is the only source I know of that would know with certainty and have a correct used and possibly NOS cross member. I briefly looked at Perogie's website and they list used trans cross members for C4, C6, FMX, 3 and 4sp. separately and each with a different price so there may be a difference. I am going to call them because now I am curious if mine is correct for my 4sp. even though it fits without issues. But again, I believe your second cross member is correct for the FMX. On a positive note, you may be on the right track to solve the fan height (too low) issue.

Hate to say this. But, from your pictures, mine is shaped the upper picture (the one you said doesn't fit correctly). Again, mine is a 351W factory A/C car with an FMX trans. Plus, it also works with the 4sp. I installed. I think there is only one trans mount (insulator, not the cross member) for these cars regardless of trans type. Could somebody have possibly given you a trans mount for a different car or maybe a pickup? What didn't line up with the cross member?

I thought so, but wasn't 100%. I wondered how could MikeStang not know what a bump stop is.

Bump Stop: Rubber pad (if you will), one at each wheel attached to the car body or frame that the suspension hits when bottoming out preventing metal to metal contact between suspension and car body or frame. On Mustangs, in the front they are attached to the bottom of the coil spring outer covers and contact the upper control arms when bottoming out. In the back they are attached to the frame rails directly above the axle and contact the axle when bottoming out. In the back there is also a pinion snubber but that serves a different purpose.

What KYB shocks are you using. Not the high pressure Gas-A-Just?

Something is still not quite right. Shouldn't have to raise the motor for it to fit. I don't know how many trans cross members there were. I went from an FMX to a 4sp without any issues using the FMX cross member. It didn't cross my mind there may be a different cross member. It's working fine, but now I'm curious. Are those 5 gallon buckets and blocks of wood for jack stands supporting your freshly painted car?????

I know originally there were different motor mounts for convertible cars. They were about 1/2 inch lower than the coupe and fastback motor mounts. Today, I have only seen coupe and fastback OEM style motor mounts available. This is a stretch because I think there is only one trans mount option. But have you verified the trans mount components are correct. Possibly the motor and trans angle is incorrect causing the front of the motor to be a little too low. Like I said, mine is a factory A/C 351W car and the fan was close on the bottom as well. But that is with a 17" 6 blade Derale fan and I was able to rework the shroud to fix it.

Well said DarkBuddha.

The fan in my 69 Mach 1 with a 351W is close to the bottom of the shroud as well. The clearance was minimal with a stock radiator and when I installed a Griffin rad I had to slot the mounting holes for the shroud and modify the shroud in the lower rad hose area to lower the shroud. Raising the motor can cause a few issues. The most common being hood clearance for a 351W depending on intake manifold and air cleaner combinations. What diameter fan are you using?