1969_Mach1
-
Content Count
2,590 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
38
Posts posted by 1969_Mach1
-
-
Have you thought of building the rear end yourself? If you have fairly good mechanical aptitude you should be able to do it. You can be more selective with the components, some used some new, and more than likely save some money. The biggest hurdle is setting up the ring and pinion mesh. Manufacturers like Motive Gear ( I've had good luck with theirs) come with good instructions for doing it yourself.
-
Thanks for getting the site back up and running. A lot of good people here. Unfortunately, I cannot afford any donations like some others. The economy in northern Calif. is still fairly bad. A few people are thriving, but the majority like us are still scraping by.
-
Thanks for getting the site back up and running. A lot of good people here. Unfortunately, I cannot afford any donations like some others. The economy in northern Calif. is still fairly bad. A few people are thriving, but the majority like us are still scraping by.
-
Here are the pictures of the two brackets that I see listed for the 351W. The one labeled accel_bracket_1 with the tag attached to it, is a used one that Branda Mustang says is for the 351W 2v or 4v. The one labeled accel_bracket_2 is a reproduction of part number c9zz-9741-b.The bracket on the left with the tag (silver bracket) is for a 2v carb on a 302 or 351W, and maybe others. The black bracket on the right I know fits a 351W 4V carb setup, and it most likely fits others as well, I just don't know which. Even though the bracket on the right fits 4v carbs it needs to be modified to fit universal Holley carbs, 4160 or 4150 series.
NPD has a new design bracket that is listed to fit 4150 and 4160 series Holley carbs. I haven't tried it, I modified my original 4v bracket to work with my 4150 700CFM carb.
-
Here are the pictures of the two brackets that I see listed for the 351W. The one labeled accel_bracket_1 with the tag attached to it, is a used one that Branda Mustang says is for the 351W 2v or 4v. The one labeled accel_bracket_2 is a reproduction of part number c9zz-9741-b.The bracket on the left with the tag (silver bracket) is for a 2v carb on a 302 or 351W, and maybe others. The black bracket on the right I know fits a 351W 4V carb setup, and it most likely fits others as well, I just don't know which. Even though the bracket on the right fits 4v carbs it needs to be modified to fit universal Holley carbs, 4160 or 4150 series.
NPD has a new design bracket that is listed to fit 4150 and 4160 series Holley carbs. I haven't tried it, I modified my original 4v bracket to work with my 4150 700CFM carb.
-
3G ford alternator upgrade out of a 94-95 5.0 MustangI have a 3G alt as well on mine. It is rated at 95 amps. Works good. A lot better than the original. Whatever you decide, keep in mind the original charge wire might not handle amperage from a high output alternator. I installed a fusible link in mine. I haven't had any issues but my thought was its better to burn up a fusible link than the wiring in the car.
-
3G ford alternator upgrade out of a 94-95 5.0 MustangI have a 3G alt as well on mine. It is rated at 95 amps. Works good. A lot better than the original. Whatever you decide, keep in mind the original charge wire might not handle amperage from a high output alternator. I installed a fusible link in mine. I haven't had any issues but my thought was its better to burn up a fusible link than the wiring in the car.
-
This is a great forum but it can use more moderators. Maybe a more tech savy moderator or one who with an IT bachground. Also more screening for new members.
-
This is a great forum but it can use more moderators. Maybe a more tech savy moderator or one who with an IT bachground. Also more screening for new members.
-
probably had a stroke when he saw all that!No kidding! Mama-Mia ........ sad but hilarious!
-
probably had a stroke when he saw all that!No kidding! Mama-Mia ........ sad but hilarious!
-
What happened to the moderator?
-
What happened to the moderator?
-
You can replace the yoke. But its a little more than a direct bolt on replacement. You will need to check the existing pinion bearing preload and match it closely when reinstalling the new yoke. If you also replace the pinion bearings then you don't need to match the preload, but preload the new bearings to spec for new bearings. It's easier if your pinion uses a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve. With a solid spacer, if you are not replacing anything else, you simply retorque the pinion nut to specs with red loc-tite compound on the threads.
Plus I'm not %100 certain but the 3.50:1 ratio might be what is called a non hunting gear ratio. Meaning the same pinion teeth and ring gear teeth mesh together on regular intervals. If so, I understand you are supposed to maintain the ring and pinion tooth mesh relationship. (I hope that is understandable)
-
You do not need a large tube housing for a 31 spline axle setup. The main differences are obviously the axles, the side gears inside the trac-lok unit and sometimes the trac-lok housing (not the third member). I say sometimes the trac-lok housing is because I was told by an older Ford technician the axle pass through hole in the sides of the trac-lok housing are sometimes different sizes depending on if they were for 28 or 31 spline steups.
The only other difference I am aware of is the axle seals. The OEM 31 spline axles have a collar on them where the seal rides requiring a different seal. The axle seal has a larger I.D. I think the collar is being reproduced and I have seen it in NPD's catalog. You can do like myself and most others do is reuse the 28 spline seals and not install the collar on the axle shafts.
I have a 31 spline NOS Ford trac-lok unit with 31 spline Moser Engineering axles in my Mach 1 and it has a small tube 9" housing. No issues with it. I say small tube housing because it uses the smaller O.D. axle bearing.
-
Its not just in the automotive industry, a lot of imported steel and stainless steel materials have poor physical properties compared to their equivalent US counterparts. Even though the compositions and the numbers representing physical properties are the same, the materials always seem both much more ductile or much more brittle than they should be.
-
I agree on leaving the 4sp. trans and changing the gears in the rear end. Check to see if its a close ratio or wide ratio 4sp. I only mention this because 1st gear is pretty tall in the close ratio 4sp. toploader. So if its a close ratio trans I wouldn't go much lower than a 3.50:1 rear axle ratio.
-
For the most part I agree with barnett468's suggestions. Be realistic with how often and how hard you plan to drive the car. Rebuild and replace what is worn out and make improvements in the process. Chances are good you don't need coil over front suspension, rack and pinion steering, and certainly not a completely new instrument panel set up. You can build it right the first time without all that stuff. I guess if you want an overdrive, a different trans. But a Ford toploader 4sp is highly sought after, not easy to find, and as tough as they come. Your budget will go a lot further without that stuff.
You have a desirable highly optioned car to start with. Optioned like yours may be more rare than you are aware of. Simply because they typically were driven so hard they would not have survived this long. Besides, if you spend all your budget now how do you plan to make any new repairs or upgrades later.
-
I agree, I love the these cars for the same reason.However, when it comes to safety items, I don't think one should be concerned about hurting value. 3 point belts, disc brakes etc..
Good point Happystang.
-
They made A LOT of Mach 1's so I don't think this is very rare optioned car. Now if it had a big block...Either way everything is going to be retained and can be reversed. Also, I can not sell the car (part of the deal) so the value of the car doesn't come into play. I just want to make it safer and more enjoyable to drive.
I understand, there is certainly nothing wrong with that. I agree its not very rare, but it is a very nice car. Like I mentioned, to me it seems my thoughts differ from most others on this site.
I absolutely do not want to influence your build. A lot of people have ideas like yours regarding making it more enjoyable to drive, that's fine. There is nothing wrong with that. For my taste, the car is rare enough to not alter with modern day drive train, braking, and suspension components. I know there were a lot of Mach 1's built. But not nearly as many as fastbacks and coupes. Plus cars like Mach 1's and more so Boss Mustangs were more often originally purchased to be driven hard. So fewer of them survived this long when compared to coupes and fastbacks.
I appreciate these cars were designed and built with 45 or so year old technology. Part of their charm and beauty is they drive, ride, steer, and stop like a car built with 45 year old technology and not like a modern new car.
-
If it's truly a 70 Mach 1 optioned like you mention, in my opinion some of the upgrades with modern parts will hurt the value and desirability of the car. But I'm more of a purest with these cars. In my mind, any upgrades on a car like this are best if they were original options. My thoughts with any muscle car has always been if your plan is to drastically upgrade them with modern drive trans, suspensions, etc. like a retro-mod type of build, then start with more of a base-line lower optioned higher production car. My thoughts seem to differ from most others here so I'm sure others will have different opinions, but I wanted to throw out mine.
-
The antenna does not come apart nor is easily removed as a complete assembly because the cable is not removable from the antenna base. I have the same situation. My car cover was only $150 so I cut a hole in it for the antenna to pass through. I've seen plastic grommets at NPD to finish and reinforce the hole in the car cover.
-
What's the big deal with electric antennas? They typically don't last very long and eventually break. I use to replace a lot of them when I was a GM tech. The mast gets dirty, sticky and the chord that moves it up and down breaks.
-
When the gauge is inaccurate, how can it be calibrated?
8" to 9" swap cost question
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Have you thought of building the rear end yourself? If you have fairly good mechanical aptitude you should be able to do it. You can be more selective with the components, some used some new, and more than likely save some money. The biggest hurdle is setting up the ring and pinion mesh. Manufacturers like Motive Gear ( I've had good luck with theirs) come with good instructions for doing it yourself.