1969_Mach1
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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1
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Yes, the 4 barrel 351W motors for 1969 had flat top pistons and the 1969 and 1970 cylinder heads had smaller combustion chambers than the 1971 and newer, 60cc vs. 64cc respectively. Giving the 1969 and 1970 4 barrel 351W a 10.7:1 static compression ratio.
My 69 351W is a factory 4 barrel with 10.7:1 CR. The static CR has been calculated several times and it is in fact 10.7:1. I haven't heard any pinging running 91 octane fuel. As a precaution I do now mix Torco Accelerator with 91 octane pump gas at a ratio to obtain 94-95 octane. Plus, the motor seems to run better and I can advance the timing and speed up the advance curve from stock settings.
Keep in mind, camshafts play a big role in determining the dynamic compression ratio. Stock cams will increase the dynamic CR vs. aggressive cams that will reduce the dynamic CR. Also, keep the motor running cool, mine runs at about 175-180 deg. F and make certain the A/F mixture is not too lean. You know, you want to see a little color on the plugs and not have them white like on new cars.
Is your motor stock, have you changed the camshaft or anything else?
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I think the OP is referring to the clutch fork pivot ball and not the Z-bar bushings (Z-bar bushings are also needed). For 1969, there is not a pivot ball for the clutch fork. Instead it uses a Fulcrum.
From the factory this Fulcrum is riveted to the bell housing. The rivets can be drilled out and flat head allen bolts and lock nuts used to install the new Fulcrum. If yours has some type of pivot ball, somewhere in the cars life the wrong bell housing has been installed.
NPD sells new Fulcrums. https://www.npdlink.com/product/fulcrum-clutch-release-lever-on-bellhousing-good-repro/149913?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dclutch%2Bfork%2Blever%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969
It sounds like the clutch linkage needs to be rebuilt from the pedal all the way to the clutch to make correct and reliable.
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If you have a stock replacement clutch assembly, then a stock replacement clutch rod should be fine. From what I understand the stock clutch linkage cannot tolerate clutch assemblies with much more clamping force than stock. If you want linkage that is a little better than stock, take a look at Opentracker Racing. They sell linkage kits with spherical rod ends. They're a bit pricey, but probable work better.
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If you have a stock oil pump, a stock replacement oil pump drive shaft is fine, if it is a high volume, or hopefully not a high pressure pump, then a hardened oil pump drive shaft is recommended.
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The top of the oil pump drive has a chamfer on it, the bottom of the distributor shaft has a chamfer on the inside edge. Unless the oil pump drive is wedged to one side and cannot move, the distributor will drop into place. It sometimes takes some work when installing the distributor to get both the distributor and cam gears meshed, and the distributor shaft onto the oil pump drive.
Your not doing something odd like trying to install a 302 distributor into a 351W? Because that wouldn't work.
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16 hours ago, ralt962 said:I have the bouncing speedo needle. New cable. Will greasing this settle it down? Does not make noise but the need bounces a lot.
If the cable routing is correct, not kinked, or bent too much to make a turn, then I would remove the speedo and bench test it. These are 50 year old mechanical parts. They do wear out.
16 hours ago, Shep69 said:Pulled the dash out and as expected the plastic clip is broken so will need to find a replacement cable. Yes its a factory AC car so had to pull the instrument cluster out to gain access.
I will bench test it like you said when I get the new cable. Who makes a decent cable? Ive read mixed reviews on the Scott Drake ones.
I'd do like barnett468 mentioned and look for a used original speedo cable. If you cannot find anything on eBay, my go to place for used original or NOS stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises.
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On 8/16/2019 at 3:14 PM, Topless69GT said:I love driving down the road on a nice day. Top is down and the 69 is running good. That is the best feeling in the world until a cooler car comes up and passes you.
Nice picture. But, I wouldn't say the Shelby is a cooler car, just different. As you can guess, I've never been awe-struck over Shelby Mustangs. Why some think they are the best thing since sliced bread is beyond me.
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After the dash pad, a few more screws and the instrument panel an be removed. I was able to cut off the end of the inner cable of an old speedo cable, put in a drill, and operate the speedo on the bench. Maybe you can rig up something in a drill and check the speedo on the bench. That's how I found out the noise I had was coming from the speedo itself. If yours seems okay on the bench, then replace the cable while the dash pad is off.
If yours is a factory air conditioned car, proceeding like you are by removing the dash pad is the only way to get to the speedo cable.
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You will need a new cable to get that plastic retainer clip. I purchased my speedo cable so long ago it was from a Ford dealer. I don't know what the aftermarket offers these days.
If the speedo is working correctly, then the cable has not come out far enough to cause a noise issue. Usually, when cables are causing noises, the speedo needle is also not steady? At this point, regardless of what's causing the noise, speedo, or cable, a new cable should be installed. What type of noise are you hearing?
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Changing the steering box does not affect or change the steering linkage or suspension geometry. With that in mind, bump steer will not occur from simply changing the steering box. It's probably either the tires like barnet468 mentioned or your steering box was not centered before installing the pitman arm and/or rag joint/steering column assembly.
After installing my Borgeson steering box, I reset the toe with a tape measure then did a fine centering of the steering wheel with the tie rod adjusting sleeves and it steers just fine. I didn't increase the caster like is suggested for better steering wheel return to center, but that doesn't bother me.
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You are probably better off getting used complete harnesses. I say this because the original door harnesses have a lot of plastic channels that bolt to the inside of the door. This keeps the wiring from interfering with the window and window regulator mechanism. New harnesses are fine if you still have all those plastic channels or can also get the plastic channels.
If I recall correctly, those channels are not easily removed from the harness assembly, so they are probably gone as well. My go to place for stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises. Some say their prices are high. But I have only found that to be on the more rare items that are expensive everywhere and not the commonly found items.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
I don't understand why you need a 90 degree thermostat housing? Like Barnett468 mentioned, there is no need for that with A/C.
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I found an early 1970's NOS RCA brand AM/FM/8-track with 4-way fader on ebay. I installed Blaupunkt 6x9 speakers in one of those aftermarket trap doors in the back and 4" kick panel speakers up front. It installed using the stock front and rear mounting brackets and sounds much better than I had expected. At least the AM/FM portion. I'm older but not old enough to own any 8-tracks.
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8 hours ago, rittenrotton said:Sorry for the delay in my response, my wife just gave birth to my 2nd daughter.
Barnett468 - I have 225/45ZR17 on all 4 wheels; the car felt better after the Shelby drop but still had terrible bump steer before I changed the steering components. I thought by replacing all the worn out steering components (which where original) the car would handle better. I definetly did not match the lengths of the new tie rods to the old ones. There was very little play in the steering wheel; it's a little difficult to describe the problem but I think the best way to describe it, is that the steering wheel doesn't seem to match the tires. Almost like the feeling that the wheels aren't going the same direction. Before the alginment, you could see the camber was not right (as you could see the wheels were at a slight tilted angle) and the wheels were definitely not matching the same direction. I would of taken it to a shop like ETD Tire or a national chain but it was not safe driving the car the way it was.
I' located in the Bronx in NYC; there is a 100 little independent shops that do alignments.. I'm sure I could of asked for the documentation but I wasn't aware that there was such a thing.exisits. Would the specs really help to understand what a potential issue could be?
After I wrote this post, I contacted Borgeson about my issue and their tech believes that my steering box was not centered before I attached the pitman arm and connected it to the center link. I was in the process of seeing if this was the issue but unfortunately I didn't get the chance to complete this yet and take it on a test drive. In a few weeks, i hope to see if this is the issue.
The description is a bit confusing. I don't think you are experiencing bump steer. It's very critical that you center the steering box before reinstalling the pitman arm, rag joint, column and steering wheel. If you do not, then when the steering wheel is straight the box will be positioned off of "center steer" The way the gears are cut inside a steering box, when it is in it's centered steer position there is no "play" between the gears. The steering gears actually have an interference fit in the center steer position. This occurs for about 1/4-1/2 revolution through center position. As the box comes off of center there is some play between the gears. On borgeson boxes the sector shaft where the pitman arm attached has 4 master splines master splines plus there is no master spline on the input (worm gear) shaft. This leaves you to find the steering box center as best possible before installing the pitmant arm, rag joint, column and steering wheel. If your steering box was not centered, you will have a lot of play in the steering wheel when going straight which might be what you are experiencing.
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I don't think that angled cup is included with any of the available light switches. If yours is missing , somebody here might have one they can part with. If not, Perogie Enterprises likely will have a used original.
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Yes, you are right, there are thermostat housings with ports already in them. But that is not the correct location for a temp sender. It will not read accurate engine temps when the thermostat is closed.
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Coolant temp sensors will not operate any where close to correct unless the sensor is fully submerged in the coolant flow. So having two functioning temp gauges is a little tricky since most intake manifolds only have one correct location for the sensor. For best results you would need to drill and tap another location for the second coolant sensor. Then it's a bit of a gamble that the intake manifold material is thick enough where you drill to obtain a good seal when finished.
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My original brass float was filled with fuel so I ended up using the plastic float that is installed on the Spectra brand sender. Since then I've noticed NPD sells reproduction brass floats.
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I also installed a TMI headliner in my 69 Mach 1. I installed it before both the front and rear glass were installed. That does make it easier to glue the head liner to the pinch welds and hold it in place with something like pieces of windlace or a lot of small spring clamps and pieces of paint stir sticks. I installed it on a hot day so the material was easier to work with. It installed easier than I expected. You don't really have to stretch the heck out of the material. I only say that because the first headliner I helped install was in a 1967 sports roof Mustang and it had some wrinkles in it. After a few months it was fine and snug. For some reason it seems to fit better with time.
As far as one-piece headliners. By themselves they look okay and they look fine in modern cars. But for me, I'm more of a purist, so they look out of place in any car of this time period.
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Most are aware the striker will only control the inward and outward position of the rear edge of the door. But there looks to be a slight twist in a finished painted door because the front fender and rocker alignment are fine. Either that, or the front fender also needs more adjusting after the door is correct. By adjusting the striker Topless69GT might be able to obtain a compromise that is acceptable.
These cars are 50 years old and panel gaps were not very good to begin with. Sometimes you have to pick your battles instead of loosing more hair trying to make something better than it was when new.
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I thought it was something more simple like a slightly different intake port location on the imported GT40 clone cylinder heads. I will add, I have tried many intakes on the 351W in my 69 Mach 1. The Edelbrock Performer RPM and Torker II both sat down lower than the Weiand Stealth that is currently installed. They all sealed just fine, but the fitment was a little different. In the end, of all that I tried the Weiand Stealth provides the best performance for a street driver. At least for my motor, trans, and rear axle combination.
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On Saginaw PS pumps there are pressure regulator shim kits available to adjust the pump output pressure. Is there something like that available for the Ford Thompson PS pumps?
351W 4V
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I don't drive my Mach 1 much so I don't mind mixing Torco Accelerator with the fuel. I never intended on driving the car much as I was building it. The motor behaves just fine with this mixture. Before using the Torco Accelerator I did use straight 91 octane pump gas. It ran fine, but seems to have more power with the Torco Accelerator mixed in.
If you plan on driving the car a lot I would definitely consider a slightly lower static CR so you don't have to worry so much about fuel or additives.