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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. On 7/15/2019 at 6:54 PM, barnett468 said:

    Yes, a true cross flow has horizontal tubes, but that term has been attached to ford rads with the inlet and outlet on opposing corners of the rad, which has been tested by US Radiator and determined to decrease outlet temps by around 5 degrees, which is why I posted earlier that a (Ford) cross flow won't do much to increase cooling over a non cross flow.

    Cooling systems are far more complicated than most people realize and unfortunately many people buy things they don't need or buy the wrong things etc and end up wasting a lot of money in the process and still end up with an engine that runs hot.

    One of the best improvements one can do to a Ford rad in particular is have a "multi pass" plate installed. This forces the water thru two sections of the rad before it exits.


    You know I kept wondering why these types of Ford "Down Flow" radiators were being referred to as Cross Flow.  Down Flow ===> vertical tubes, Cross Flow ===> horizontal tubes.

  2. 14 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

    The more I think about it, the more I think I have something more than just a leaky oil pan gasket.  I stuck my head under the car and watched the oil leak... its coming out pretty fast... almost like it was under pressure.  Its leaking a LOT.  I have to drop the pan to do the gasket anyway... the only thing I can think it might be is that the oil pump isn't tight or the gasket blew out?  Anyone have any other ideas?

    If the oil pump is leaking where is attaches to the block, it still should not cause an external leak.  What about leaking where the oil pressure sender attaches to the block?  Or the oil filter?  If it's not those or the timing cover seal, the only item remaining in that area is the front end seal portion of the oil pan gasket.  Make certain the leak isn't running down from further above.

  3. As far as the clevis hitting the power disk brake bolt, if you know the bolt size, go online to McMaster Carr and see if there is a button head bolt available.  That might give you enough clearance without having to do anything else.  Just make certain the grade is the same as what you currently have.  For that washer you had to grind a flat spot in, it looks like a USS spec washer, an SAE spec washer would have a smaller outside diameter.

    It can be hard enough fitting one aftermarket component, mixing different aftermarket components can seem impossible.  My guess is some of these small aftermarket mfgs don't have the resources for much engineering and testing.  Then us, the customers, end up doing it for them.

  4. 1 hour ago, TexasEd said:

    Thanks @Rsanter you listed the real impacts of switching over.  I think I'll hold off until I do a motor swap to change over the water pump.  I can look into the cross over tube if I want a new radiator.

    When you make the change to a 1970 setup, in addition to radiator, water pump, damper, timing pointer, and pulleys, to be a correct conversion I think you will also need the accessory mounting brackets for a 1970.  If not, I think you will find seeing the timing marks and pointer rather difficult.  Plus, it will then look correct.

  5. 1 minute ago, 69ShelbyGT350H said:

    If its the damper seal that is leaking, your going to have to remove the cover and replace it. If its the oil pan seal, then you can just lower the pan and replace or reseal the gasket.



    Yeah, the early Windsor timing chain covers were like.  On later model and replacement timing covers the front crank seal installs from the front not the back.  It's worth the upgrade unless you want the original look.  But, I think he is working with a Cleveland motor.

  6. Sealant will not help on a rotating part.  If it's leaking between the damper and seal there is something wrong.  Did you accidentally get a seal for use with a repair sleeve?  I'd get another seal, maybe a different brand from a different source.  It should fit slightly snug on the damper.  I'm not familiar with Clevelands, but, make certain the timing cover is centered on the damper.

  7. My first guess would be something is wrong with the new regulator.  I'd also check the voltage output from the stator terminal on the alternator and the where it connects to the voltage regulator.  Stator terminal voltage should be at least half of the charging system voltage.  As you can see, the stator voltage from the alternator closes contacts inside the voltage regulator allowing battery voltage tp pass through terminal "A" on the voltage regulator and back-feed the charge indicator light.  Thus the end result is equal voltage on both sides of the light, which stops current flow through the light, and turns it off.

    1969 Mustang Alternator Wiring With Light.jpg

  8. If your 69 heads are good, that would be a better choice for the 89 351W.  I don't think the Duraspark ignition in that 89 would work for an older car.  I think by 1989 mechanical and vacuum advance distributors were no longer being used.  Ignition timing advance was computer controlled by 1989.  I wouldn't bother with that overdrive transmission.  It is probably an AODE and those were kind of problematic back then, early shifting, stacking shifts, etc., at least in stock form.  The later 4R70W is a better option.  I'd hang on to that trans.  Maybe you can find a trans shop that knows how to sort out all those issues.

  9. Noticing the low oil pressure now, did you prime the oil pump with a drill prior to starting the motor?  Is it the stock oil pressure gauge?  If so, I've had problems with some oil pressure sending units causing a low reading on the gauge.  I've had best luck with Standard brand oil pressure sending units.  The Motorcraft brand sending units being sold for these cars caused my stock gauge to indicate low pressure when a mechanical gauge would show 55-60 psi.  If you have a mechanical gauge it might be worth quickly connecting it to check the oil pressure before going further.

    With the lifters clattering is the top end oiling okay?

  10. 4 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

    What could it be?  I cant think of anything except a) timing chain off, or b) camshaft ground wrong.  I degreed the camshaft enough to verify TDC and ICL.  Both were spot on.  I have a new timing set in there, but I will be replacing it just to be sure.

    If you took the time to correctly degree the camshaft, now I wonder.  Are you using a Pertronix distributor or just the assembly that replaces the ignition points in a stock distributor?  If it's the later, I have heard of those causing odd ignition timing issues.

    15 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

    @1969_Mach1  I don’t know how I did it, but you are right... Cranking had an odd cadence to it. Regular, and then it would skip, then regular, then it would skip.  Repeat ad nauseam.

    If I understand the cranking cadence you are describing, it's indicative of a cylinder or two with little compression.  On an older motor that's concerning.  On a new motor it's most often caused by hydraulic lifters that are not yet pumped up.

    I have seen motors run when the timing chain is loose and jumped one tooth.   The motor runs, but barely, and while cranking the motor has an odd rhythm to it.  Difficult to describe, but it's not normal-normal-normal-skip-normal-normal-normal-skip-normal . . . 

    I'm curious what you find?

  11. How did you not get the marks lined up on the timing gears?  It's fairly obvious when they are off one tooth.  Plus, if your timing chain is installed wrong the rhythm will sound odd when cranking the motor.

    Is it something simple like the inductive pick-up on the timing light is connected to the wrong spark plug wire?  When you installed the distributor was #1 cylinder on TDC compression stroke or TDC overlap stroke?  Merely sticking something in the spark plug hole to monitor piston movement and checking the timing marks on the balancer and pointer will not confirm which it is.

  12. 13 hours ago, capemustang said:

    attached is a photo of mine.  It's a bit dark because it was in the garage. My Marti report says that my car came with the Visibility Group Option:  LH remote chrome mirror , glove box lock, lights in the trunk, glove box and ash tray, parking brake warning light, lighted ignition switch



    To me it looks like the dash is dimpled and not flat where that park brake light is installed?  Or is that a special  bezel for the park brake light and the dash is flat in that area?

  13. Like Barnett mentioned, first determine where the leak is coming from.  Clean up that mess, run the motor, drive the car a few miles and double check.  I'd also check the trans fluid just to be certain coolant is not getting into the trans fluid from a leaking trans cooler inside the radiator.  These work good for stopping minor coolant leaks and do not clog cooling systems.  They will make the coolant look a little muddy in color.


  14. On 6/19/2019 at 3:04 PM, bigmal said:

    Nice work on the engine but the engine bay looks a little half arse. Sanded and pressure pack. I don't hold much hope for the rest of the restoration.

    These guys don't restore like you might be accustomed to.  But, their show, Roadkill, is great.  I watch it every week.  They pulled that Mach 1 out of a wrecking yard on an earlier episode.  They worked on it in the wrecking yard for a few days to get it running and driving and drove it out.

  15. The old-timer method of fixing sticky lifters (if that's what is causing the tick) is to change the oil and filter and when refilling the oil pour in about a half quart of ATF.  In real bad cases I've heard of a full quart of ATF.  Of course make certain the remainder of the motor oil is the type with high ZDDP content if you have a flat tappet cam.  The ATF has a lot of detergent in it.  If it were mine, I'd change the oil and filter again after soon after the lifter noise stopped to get the ATF out of the motor.  I've done it a couple of times on old motors and it worked both times.

    As far as those thick carb base gaskets, avoid the type that are coated with a black tar-like coating.  When it gets hot it sticks to the carb and intake badly.  I just purchased two of those thick gaskets made by Holley and they are nice, no black tar-like coating.  Also, if you have a dual plane intake, get the thick gasket with a center divider.

  16. When you say it has spark, is that spark out of the coil, spark at the spark plugs, or both?  If you pull the plugs and it's getting fuel they should be wet with fuel.  Does it sound normal, you know does it have the same rhythm when each cylinder is on compression during cranking?

    If you have an MSD ignition system are you checking spark with something like this below?  Notice there is no center electrode sticking out of that spark tester.  Your MSD ignition system should be able to jump that huge gap.  There is another model spark tester with a center electrode for points type ignition systems.


  17. In 1988, the 351W is not a roller block.  1995 was the first year Ford installed 351W roller blocks in vehicles.  I believe the casting number for 351W roller blocks starts with an E4.  Good luck with a cam selection.  Howard's Cams has a fairly large off the shelf selection.   

  18. On 6/21/2019 at 4:31 PM, newstang said:

    Ok guys, need to get bumpers.

    I hear ACP makes one of the nicest.

    I only have access to Dynacorn.

    Rechroming isn't the way I want to spend and not sure the ones I have are original/


    What say you?


    My bumpers were from Scott Drake.  I purchased them and hardware kits through Summit Racing.  They fit as good as the originals and the chrome is great (but not show chrome).  The first front bumper had a small ding in it.  Summit Racing had a replacement to me the next day and also a call tag for UPS pick up on the defective bumper.  My guess is most reproduction bumpers for these cars come from the same overseas manufacturer.

  19. Where did you find an NOS distributor?  I'd like one for a backup.  I like my MSD setup but my confidence level with it isn't the highest.

    Watch your engine temps during the initial break in period.  Sometimes they creep up higher than normal during that time.  Have an electric box fan or something ready in case you need more air flow through the radiator to be safe if needed.

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