1969_Mach1
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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1
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I've so far had good luck with MSD 6ALN boxes. I've never tried the basic 6A or 6AL boxes and I think (but not sure) they are made oversea. I recently purchased another 6ALN for a new project and it is still made in USA. Plus they should be installed in an area that gets good air flow for cooling and obviously as far from heat sources as possible.
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If you don't have much experience adjusting the valves I'd suggest go to Comp Cams website and look for the instructions they offer. It's a tedious method of one valve at a time and rotate the crank each time. But, it assures the lifter for the valve you are adjusting is where it's supposed to be, on the heel of the cam lobe, and the lifter gets preloaded correctly.
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I'm curious to see if you can get it tuned and running good with the current combination or ultimately a cam change will be needed.
A Holley 700 CFM mechanical secondary carb Holley list 4778-8 runs good on my mild 351W motor. A 650 CFM Holley mechanical secondary carb, list 4777, is a little more crisp but it seems to pull harder in mid-range with the 700.
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Check basic stuff like others mentioned, vacuum leaks, etc. Keep in mind that is a fairly aggressive cam, especially in a 351W for street driving. It doesn't surprise me that the vacuum drops off the way you describe. If your car has vacuum assist power brakes, they won't work. If you have a larger carb, it might be worth a try, 650-700-750 cfm. Maybe a mechanical secondary carb. The 500 and 570 are a little small for a mild 351W, but, that cam will make matters worse and they might have too lean of an idle circuit for it. If your 500 and 570 carbs have an operating choke, that would explain why it runs better cold (richer A/F mixture).
When you do get it running with that cam, you'll need a fairly low rear axle gear ratio. Plus, if it's an auto trans car, the stock torque converter will not work. After you obtain a good neutral idle, it will likely die when you drop it into gear. Or you will have to turn the idle speed up fairly high and it will lung hard and creep when you put it into gear.
Again, check the basic stuff first. If all is okay, maybe consider a less aggressive cam or do more work to tune the motor for that cam.
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On 9/25/2012 at 10:07 AM, Flanders said:I thought I'd post a few pics, in hopes it'll help others down the road. I wanted to install a set of retractable 3-point seatbelts in my fastback and use the factory holes. I ended up getting a set of Wesco belts, with shoulder extension:
Then install the base retractor, and the 'arm' that connects to the lap belt:
I have to ask because I tried a kit sold through Scott Drake. After installing the base retractor can you move the seat all the way back? With the kit I tried the base retractor hit the seats and they could not go back all the way. My legs are too long for that and need the seat all the way back.
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The main issue I found with those aftermarket 3-point retractor belt systems, when installing them in the stock locations, is the retractor is larger than stock so the front seats will not go back all the way. At 5'-10" I couldn't use them because I have the seat back as far as it can go. So, I use the stock lap belts and leave the shoulder harness belts clipped into the holders in the roof. I know it's not as safe.
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On 4/25/2020 at 7:45 PM, Machspeed said:Thanks ny, but unless I overlooked them sure didn't see them there. They have Raybestos, Bendix and a few others, all Chinese stuff.
Very sadly, most all of this type of stuff is from oversea. Of those two, Raybestos is probably the better option. You can also try NAPA auto parts, Their brake parts are Raybestos even though they are repackaged for NAPA.
The rotors on my 69 Mach 1 are one piece. Factory front disk brakes.
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Dielectric grease has always worked for me when a horn contact button was squeaking as it rubbed against the contact ring. I've never tried the NO-OX-ID grease. Be a little careful with it as I read it is conductive. You don't need grease causing an electrical short.
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13 minutes ago, Machspeed said:Don't want to hijack the thread, but gotta ask......you fellas that installed the Borgeson box, I'd love to see how you routed your hoses?
I had to get a longer pressure hose made and purchased a longer piece of return hose. Routed the hoses same as what Borgeson hoses are set up for. But with longer hoses I moved them up higher over the JBA headers to keep them away from heat. If you don't have a manual trans with stock clutch linkage you can route the hoses underneath. I have a 351W with a manual trans and stock linkage so I also had to modify the Z-bar to clear the hoses. It was a pain, I wouldn't do the Borgeson conversion again on a manual trans car.
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Possibly an idle restrictor in the metering block is plugged. Might also have plugged air bleeds. Accelerator pump no longer working for a variety of reasons. Small leaks in the metering block gasket. If it were mine I'd freshen the carb. Not good to let them sit for prolonged periods without running the motor once in a while. Many people with Holley carbs will freshen them once a year just as a preventative type of maintenance.
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You are fortunate a 175 amp fuse failed before any thing burned.
I agree, the charge wire from the alternator should have a fairly direct route to the battery. Somehow fusing it would be wise as well.
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Transmission adjustment, as best I recall, front to back yes, side to side no.
How is all this motor and trans movement going to affect the u-joint operating angles?
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2 hours ago, Print Dad said:Hello 1969 Mach1
I may be wrong on the width of my fan - but a quick measure I thought was 18inches
I agree the 3 shroud picture is what I bought a long time ago from CJ - -it is a Drake product but looks like crap.
I was thinking maybe the big block motors with 24 inch radiator would fit an approx 18" fan.
I hope the sun comes out tomorrow and I will try to get a better measurement
As I mentioned the 3rd ppix is me with the shroud up against the radiatoy with just the top 2 screws - -but it stinks
You are correct that a big block would have an 18" fan and the appropriate shroud. I don't know if that combination will fit on a small block car.
I vaguely recall West Coast Classic Cougars having a short video on original fans/radiators/and shrouds. It might be worth searching to get a better idea of what combinations fit together.
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On a small block (and 351C) I don't think you will find a stock or stock repro fan shroud that will work with an 18" fan. I have a 17-1/4" clutch fan on my 351W. I managed to find the fan on eBay then purchased a new clutch from NAPA auto parts. It fits with the stock shroud. I believe Derale makes a 17" fan for a fan clutch setup. It looks original.
The shroud in your last picture fits terribly. It almost looks upside down on the radiator.
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Sorry to say, but the bearing has to be removed to get the main shaft loaded with gears and synchronizers out of the case. The only safe way to remove the bearing is with a puller. That I know from experience. I ruined a main shaft once trying other methods with a brass hammer.
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Not at a plumbing or hardware store. A good auto parts store like NAPA might have something. Summit Racing has a larger selection of NPT to hose fittings. You can probably find a fitting that will work without any adapters. I ended up with stainless steel fittings from Summit Racing.
For an aluminum intake manifold, a stainless steel, aluminum, or brass fitting is a better option than a steel fitting.
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What oil were you using to break in the cam?
One method I saw to check for a bad cam lobe is to remove the valve cover and mark the push rod(s) for the suspected bad cam lobes. Disable the ignition system and crank the motor. Watch the push rod(s) you marked while cranking to see if they are rotating. If they are rotating, the cam lobe is still okay.
If you are lucky you might have an intake valve with a lifter that is preloaded a little too much. Did you install adjustable rocker arms on this motor? After machine work on cylinder heads, resurfacing them, etc. the lifter preload with non adjustable rocker arms might not be ideal.
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If you look at the original post, the back of the engine oil pan is soaked with oil as well. If that is trans fluid on the bell housing, there is likely more than one leak? Maybe it's me, I see motor oil on the paper towel.
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That looks like motor oil. Check closely the oil pan around the rear main cap area and the rear main seal.
What type of oil are you using? Some tend to find small leaks more than others. On my 351W, when I use to run Valvoline Racing oil I always had a very small leak in the rear main seal or back of oil pan area. Not enough to be concerned with. But always a small drip off the bottom of the bell housing. When I switched to Lucus Hot Rod and Classic Car oil the leak stopped.
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On 3/10/2020 at 7:40 PM, nymustang1969 said:Replaced my axle bearings last year. Don't member the part number, but I ordered them from Summit Racing. They were Timken bearings, stamped made in Japan. Quality looked very good. Put about 4000 miles on them. No problems.
There was a time all Timken bearings were U.S. made. For a long time now, I'm guessing at least 25 years, Timken has offered both U.S. and imported bearings. Most Timken bearings you find in parts stores are imported. Industrial supply stores will carry the U.S. made bearings. NAPA will sometimes have the U.S. made bearings. Bearings sold by companies like Moser, Currie, etc. are usually U.S. made. As you can guess, there is a big price difference between the two.
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I don't think that is from a 1969 Sportsroof. I didn't come across anything like that on my 69 Mach 1.
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Regardless of what the fix is, you should add a ground cable from the engine to the body of the car. This is just a little extra insurance that everything electrical on the car will have a good path to the negative battery terminal.
I don't understand the description of when grounding the coil to the battery a spark is created? Are you getting the spark at the moment you remove the ground? That's when it should occur. You are certain there is 12V to the coil while cranking?
If there are 12V to the coil while cranking and the coil is good, while cranking connect a test light between the negative side of the coil and ground, the light should blink while cranking. If the light stays off, the points and condenser are not breaking open the ground circuit. If the light stays on, the points and condenser are not closing the ground circuit. Either way, if the light doesn't blink, it is something with the points, condenser, or wire to the points from the coil.
Does you Boss 302 still have the factory rev limiter installed? I don't know how those operated, but just asking.
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That is normal. Some might have a little less lateral movement than others, but, there are no bushings or bearings on the bottom of the distributor to locate the shaft. Only on upper end. The lower portion of the shaft is located by the hole in the block.
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10 hours ago, Flanders said:I think it's just the picture. The column and box are lined up nicely. I'll double check the exhaust port flange area to make sure it's mating correctly, but I suspect this might be all related to my car's frame needing re-aligning several years ago. And "yes" to power steering -- the drivers side header collector does point right down on the steering ram, so in theory the JBA mid-pipes will get around that. We shall see!
I'm glad I'm not the only one that's noticed the drivers side location of the collector. When I had factory power steering I couldn't see a path for the exhaust with the power steering ram and stock clutch linkage. I spoke to JBA about it, they responded like they have never seen or heard of such a condition like that.
I'm curious if the JBA mid-pipe with fit around both the power steering ram and the stock clutch linkage. Let us know how it fits.
Anti-theft for these old classic cars?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Just put a manual transmission in it. Most today won't be able to drive it.