Need advise finding a direct fit Aluminum Radiator

[Need advise finding a direct fit Aluminum Radiator]

That location should work just fine for the fan sensor. 

[Need advise finding a direct fit Aluminum Radiator]

22 hours ago, prayers1 said:

If I was to take the radiator to a shop and have them install a bung on it for the sensor. Where on the radiator should it go??

i have a 195 thermostat and the fan coolant sensor is 187

I don't think the fan coolant sensor will work very good in the radiator.  Plus with a 195 degree thermostat and a fan coolant sensor set for 187 degrees, the fan will never stop running.  Maybe step down to a 180 degree thermostat.  A 195 degree thermostat is fairly hot for your type of car.  Some may argue different, but it's not a late model engine designed to run at welding temps.

[Rear Axle Ratio]

On 8/26/2020 at 12:24 PM, Dave R. said:

Sounds like a fun combo also.   Dave R.

That combo was in one of my older brothers 69 Mach 1 back in the early 1980's.  He was one that would street race almost every weekend.  On Saturday mornings I'd see all the rubber stuck to the rear quarter panels and rear inner fenders of the car.  At first he'd clean off all the rubber before our father saw it.  After a while he didn't care and left it on there.

[Is the Coolant Sensor in enough??]

7 hours ago, Midlife said:

If this is an electrical coolant sensor, don't use teflon products on the threads, as the threads are the conductive path to ground.

True, but often something is needed to seal threaded sensors.  With teflon paste you will still end up with a good electrical connection as it only fills the voids unlike teflon tape.

I use this one.  It's for automotive use and much thinner than a general plumbing sealant.

If he doesn't want to use that, there is also this which works well on threads.

[REBUILT ALTERNATORS - ANYONE BETTER THAN ANOTHER?]

17 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

I consider my self fortunate that a local shop rebuilds these two items.  My last NAPA starter was a fiasco.  Just my experience.  Brian

 

Funny, just the opposite in my area.  We have a local generator shop that rebuilds alternators, generators and starters.  Their workmanship is good.  I think the parts they use are poor quality.  It's always a gamble to have them rebuild something.  If you have an odd item, they are your best (usually only) option.

[retrofit roller cam question]

15 hours ago, BigDuke6 said:

So it is a standard base circle.  I am shopping around getting my engine stroked and talked to a guy who claimed to have built several engines over the years and he assured me that these retrofit cams were reduced base circle cams and whoever told me I could use a standard base circle cam on a 1969 block did not know what he was talking about.  Mild panic set in.  I later called to comp which told me that all these cams are std. base circle cams and a reduced base circle cam would have to be special ordered and that these work in a 1969 block when using link bar lifters (which I have).  I then perused the ford racing parts catalog and noticed this about the X303 cam

The legendary X303 cam developed by Ford Performance for the 5.0L Fox-body Mustang. This cam provides a noticeable power improvement and lumpy idle while maintaining good driveability with a manual transmission. Works well with carburetors or mass air fuel injection.

• Fits 1985 and later 302 roller cam blocks
• Will also fit 1963-1984 non-roller cam 289-302 blocks when used with hydraulic roller lifters 
• Will also fit 1994-1997 351W blocks with factory roller cam
• Will also fit 1969-1993 non-roller cam 351W blocks when used with hydraulic roller lifters

needless to say, this guy will not be building my stroker.  

I've been using the X303 in a 1969 351W for many years with link bar style hydraulic roller lifters (also from Ford Racing).  Works good with no issues.  Everything oils just fine with a stock oil pump.

[REBUILT ALTERNATORS - ANYONE BETTER THAN ANOTHER?]

I've always had good luck with the rebuilt alternators and starters from NAPA.  I've had problems with those rebuilt items from Orielly's.  I don't know why, they usually come from the same rebuilders.  Maybe the stuff that ends up at NAPA is a little higher quality.

[Rear Axle Ratio]

16 hours ago, Dave R. said:

Can't be much help as my 3.50 gear and CR toploader are twisted by a 428CJ. Lots of fun and fuel.   Dave R.

I only have a 351W, not nearly as much low end torque as your 428CJ.  The only combination I've had experience with on a 351W Mustang and 3.50 rear axle gear also had an FMX auto trans.  With the FMX's lower first gear ratio and torque convertor it was a good combination for street.  Not lazy at all and could still cruise 55 mph.  This was so long ago the highway speed limit was still 55.

[Need advise finding a direct fit Aluminum Radiator]

I went with a Griffin radiator.  Two rows of 1-1/4" tubes and uses the factory upper and lower saddle mounts.  No issues with it yet.  I've had it about 18 to 20 years.  I do replace the coolant often and use distilled water when mixing the coolant.  Distilled water mixed with coolant might not be the best, but better than tap water

[Mini Starter]

3 hours ago, jrw69 said:

1969_Mach 1   

Thanks for this reminder. I have a 11" clutch so must have a 164 tooth ring gear. I wasn't sure of the offset. With the top loader it should be a 3/8" I assume.

Yes, that's correct, 3/8" offset.

20 minutes ago, RPM said:

An exception to this rule is when using a 157t flywheel an auto starter is the correct one to use. 

I had no idea that was the case for a 157 tooth flywheel.  I learned something new.

[Rear Axle Ratio]

 

2 hours ago, dream car said:

  In my younger year , I would probably preferred the lowest gear possible. So I can smoke the tires , and ludicrous mode on  take off.  Now I don't even drive on the freeway fear of rock chips. My 3:50 don't feel lazy in first gear, its a factory standard ratio for the GT-350 4 speed. Unless you are still young at hart, that would be different situations.

Young at heart, not as much anymore.

[Mini Starter]

3 hours ago, jrw69 said:

I have a 4 speed top loader. I will check out gear reduction starter

Thanks

Keep in mind, an auto trans starter will not work on a manual transmission.  A couple of things to remember when selecting a starter for your car. (1) Do you have a 164 tooth or 157 tooth ring gear.  If you have an 11" clutch (standard on 351W cars) then you will have a 164 tooth ring gear.  If somebody installed a 10.5" clutch setup like used on the 302 engines, then it would have a 157 tooth flywheel. (2) Manual trans cars use a 3/8" offset drive gear on the starter and an auto trans car uses a 3/4" offset.  An auto trans starter will bolt on a manual trans, but because the drive gear sticks out further, it will never disengage from the ring gear, (guess how I learned about this.) 

[retrofit roller cam question]

21 hours ago, barnett468 said:

comp cams lifters are crap by the way.

Yes they are.  I have a Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter kit in an FE motor in another project.  Haven't yet run it and finally adjusting the valves.  Two of the lifters have rock solid stuck plungers.

On 8/23/2020 at 10:45 AM, BigDuke6 said:

I know that when retrofitting a roller cam on a pre-roller cam block, you can either use a spider and dog bone to run a reduced base circle cam OR a reduced base circle cam or a standard base circle cam when using link bar lifters.  This brings me to the comp cams hydraulic cams such as this one:  https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-236-240-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-ford-351w.html#tab2.tab2

does anyone know if this is a reduced base circle or standard base circle cam?

From the description, that seems like a small base circle retrofit cam.

[Mini Starter]

Mini starters can be expensive. And some of the gear reduction aftermarket stuff can be noisy.  I had the same issue you are having, hard to crank over when hot with the 351W in my 1969 Mach 1.  This was many years ago, I went to the parts department at my local Ford dealer, the part number changed a few times, but I ended up with a late model permanent magnet gear reduction mini starter.  It solved all the hard starting issues.

If you have an automatic trans, I think a starter for a 1995 or so F150 with a 5.8L and automatic trans will fit.  Those are a PMGR mini starter and you can get one from a parts store.  Just do a close comparison before installing it, especially the drive gear.

[Rear Axle Ratio]

I'm starting to think a 3.50:1 might be the best choice with a close ratio trans.

16 hours ago, dream car said:

I'm very happy with my 3:50 rear axle, close ratio toploader With 351W. Driving around neighborhood sometime I don't even use 4th gear. Going from 3:89 to 3:70 is not going to make a lot difference for a lot of works. That just my opinion.

Does your car feel lazy at all in first gear?  First gear in a close ratio toploader isn't very low, it's only 2.32:1.  Unlike the wide ratio at 2.78:1.

[Rear Axle Ratio]

Thanks, I've been wondering how that combination would work.  I've been tinkering with the gear ratio calculators and yeah, 3.89 to 3.70 is only about 130 rpm lower at 50 mph.

[Rear Axle Ratio]

I currently have a 3.89:1 rear axle gear in my 1969 Mach 1.  Now that I am older I'd like something a little lower since the motor revs pretty high just cruising at 45 to 50 mph.  Trans is a close ratio toploader 4-speed, motor is a 351W, original 14" wheels with tires that are 26" tall.  I'm thinking either a 3.70:1 or a 3.50:1 rear axle gear.  First gear in this trans is only 2.32:1 so I am not certain how well it will work with a 3.50:1 rear axle ratio.  Anybody have experience with this type of trans and rear axle gear combination?

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

Yeah I read a recent review on Harland Sharp rockers, end result they were fine, but the guy had to do extensive cleaning and chase the threads in all the rockers before he could install them.  I was shocked how poorly made the PRW aluminum rocker arms were.  I expected something not as good as some higher end U.S. made rockers, but never thought I'd get something not even usable.  The other option I am aware of that's the most reasonably priced are from Precision Oil Pumps.

[Intake and lifter galley gap]

I'm guessing the intake in installed by now, but ARP has intake studs for small block Ford motors.  Makes installing the intake easy and less concern about pulling threads out of those aluminum cylinder heads.

Is it my eyes or does that intake not fit the cylinder heads very well?  I see the gasket in place but there appears to be a gap at the top and contact at the bottom.

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

Update, I purchased a set of aluminum PRW rocker arms and will be returning them tomorrow.  The quality of the rocker arms is terrible.  Finish is rough, one had a small crack on the top surface, a lot of them had lines scored through the top surfaces, and one of the bronze bushings fell out of one of the rocker arms and doesn't have a press fit.  Harland Sharp offers a set that fit onto the original shafts.  I might go that route.

The shafts, stands, and spacers looked fine, but the rocker arms were terrible.  I'm guessing the rockers come from a different vendor than the other components.  Especially since the shafts, stands and spacers look the same as what everybody else sells.  But the rocker arms look unique to PRW.

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

55 minutes ago, SM69Mach said:

It is basically a stock FE adjustable rocker arm.  That was an option on the FE motors, but they had a known issue of non locking adjustment so, they would tend to back out.  Precision Oil, upgrades that to a fully locking adjustable nut set up, so it gets rid of the stock adjustment issue.  He also put in new bushings where the shafts go.  Again, this was a few years ago and I am not sure he still does this, but it was a good comprise on function and cost.  

 

 

With those stock rocker arms you have, what kind of valve lift does your cam have?  I am using a Comp 280 Magnum that has about 0.530" lift with the non adjustable 1.73:1 rocker arms.  With the adjustable 1.76:1 rocker arms it would be 0.540" lift.  Is that too much for a stock rocker arm?  Open spring pressure is at 280 lbs.  I have a set of original adjustable rocker arms in good condition.  Machine shop says they have the tooling to resurface the end that contacts the valve tip.  Not certain yet if I want to use them.

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

44 minutes ago, SM69Mach said:

When I got mine, I called Precision Oil Pumps about some options.  He had stock style adjustable, not roller, that he refurbished and upgraded, with locking adj stoppers and new inserts where they install on the shaft.  Was trying to remember more details about them, but they were solid units.  I changed over to Roller Lifters and needed adjustable but was had similar concerns that you did about the aftermarket ones.  

This was a few years ago, so not sure if he still has those available or not.  

What rocker arms did you end up using?  I'm kind of new to FE motor parts.  Why are they so expensive?  The machine shop said the import PRW's would work fine because I have relatively low spring pressure.  But I've read so many bad things about them.  Almost have to just pick something and see what happens.

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

I should have been more clear, I want adjustable also so I know the lifters are adjusted correctly.

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

Thanks.  So far Precision Oil Pumps has the best price for a U.S. made rocker arm.  Since they sell everything in components I'll have to contact them to find out if their rockers will work with the original shafts, and stands.  Maybe I can get away with only purchasing their rocker arms and maybe spacers.  I'm using a hydraulic flat tappet cam and not a lot of spring pressure, 115 lbs. on seat and 280 lbs. open so from what I understand the stock stands and shafts are just fine.  And mine are in good condition.  I have a good set of stock adjustable rocker arms but I would prefer something with a roller tip for less valve guide wear.

[Rocker Arms for FE Motor]

Since FE motor rocker arms seem so ridiculously expensive, anybody here have experience with the PRW rocker arms for an FE motor?  I'm also looking at the Harland Sharp rockers only, and install them on my original shafts.  Harland Sharp said they will work with stock shafts, stands, and spring spacers.  I'm thinking the stock steel spring spacers are going to grind away at the aluminum rocker arms.  Any thoughts are appreciated.