1969_Mach1

That location should work just fine for the fan sensor.

I don't think the fan coolant sensor will work very good in the radiator. Plus with a 195 degree thermostat and a fan coolant sensor set for 187 degrees, the fan will never stop running. Maybe step down to a 180 degree thermostat. A 195 degree thermostat is fairly hot for your type of car. Some may argue different, but it's not a late model engine designed to run at welding temps.

That combo was in one of my older brothers 69 Mach 1 back in the early 1980's. He was one that would street race almost every weekend. On Saturday mornings I'd see all the rubber stuck to the rear quarter panels and rear inner fenders of the car. At first he'd clean off all the rubber before our father saw it. After a while he didn't care and left it on there.

True, but often something is needed to seal threaded sensors. With teflon paste you will still end up with a good electrical connection as it only fills the voids unlike teflon tape. I use this one. It's for automotive use and much thinner than a general plumbing sealant. If he doesn't want to use that, there is also this which works well on threads.

Funny, just the opposite in my area. We have a local generator shop that rebuilds alternators, generators and starters. Their workmanship is good. I think the parts they use are poor quality. It's always a gamble to have them rebuild something. If you have an odd item, they are your best (usually only) option.

I've been using the X303 in a 1969 351W for many years with link bar style hydraulic roller lifters (also from Ford Racing). Works good with no issues. Everything oils just fine with a stock oil pump.

I've always had good luck with the rebuilt alternators and starters from NAPA. I've had problems with those rebuilt items from Orielly's. I don't know why, they usually come from the same rebuilders. Maybe the stuff that ends up at NAPA is a little higher quality.

I only have a 351W, not nearly as much low end torque as your 428CJ. The only combination I've had experience with on a 351W Mustang and 3.50 rear axle gear also had an FMX auto trans. With the FMX's lower first gear ratio and torque convertor it was a good combination for street. Not lazy at all and could still cruise 55 mph. This was so long ago the highway speed limit was still 55.

I went with a Griffin radiator. Two rows of 1-1/4" tubes and uses the factory upper and lower saddle mounts. No issues with it yet. I've had it about 18 to 20 years. I do replace the coolant often and use distilled water when mixing the coolant. Distilled water mixed with coolant might not be the best, but better than tap water

Yes, that's correct, 3/8" offset. I had no idea that was the case for a 157 tooth flywheel. I learned something new.

Young at heart, not as much anymore.

Keep in mind, an auto trans starter will not work on a manual transmission. A couple of things to remember when selecting a starter for your car. (1) Do you have a 164 tooth or 157 tooth ring gear. If you have an 11" clutch (standard on 351W cars) then you will have a 164 tooth ring gear. If somebody installed a 10.5" clutch setup like used on the 302 engines, then it would have a 157 tooth flywheel. (2) Manual trans cars use a 3/8" offset drive gear on the starter and an auto trans car uses a 3/4" offset. An auto trans starter will bolt on a manual trans, but because the drive gear sticks out further, it will never disengage from the ring gear, (guess how I learned about this.)

Yes they are. I have a Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifter kit in an FE motor in another project. Haven't yet run it and finally adjusting the valves. Two of the lifters have rock solid stuck plungers. From the description, that seems like a small base circle retrofit cam.

Mini starters can be expensive. And some of the gear reduction aftermarket stuff can be noisy. I had the same issue you are having, hard to crank over when hot with the 351W in my 1969 Mach 1. This was many years ago, I went to the parts department at my local Ford dealer, the part number changed a few times, but I ended up with a late model permanent magnet gear reduction mini starter. It solved all the hard starting issues. If you have an automatic trans, I think a starter for a 1995 or so F150 with a 5.8L and automatic trans will fit. Those are a PMGR mini starter and you can get one from a parts store. Just do a close comparison before installing it, especially the drive gear.

I'm starting to think a 3.50:1 might be the best choice with a close ratio trans. Does your car feel lazy at all in first gear? First gear in a close ratio toploader isn't very low, it's only 2.32:1. Unlike the wide ratio at 2.78:1.

Thanks, I've been wondering how that combination would work. I've been tinkering with the gear ratio calculators and yeah, 3.89 to 3.70 is only about 130 rpm lower at 50 mph.

I currently have a 3.89:1 rear axle gear in my 1969 Mach 1. Now that I am older I'd like something a little lower since the motor revs pretty high just cruising at 45 to 50 mph. Trans is a close ratio toploader 4-speed, motor is a 351W, original 14" wheels with tires that are 26" tall. I'm thinking either a 3.70:1 or a 3.50:1 rear axle gear. First gear in this trans is only 2.32:1 so I am not certain how well it will work with a 3.50:1 rear axle ratio. Anybody have experience with this type of trans and rear axle gear combination?

Yeah I read a recent review on Harland Sharp rockers, end result they were fine, but the guy had to do extensive cleaning and chase the threads in all the rockers before he could install them. I was shocked how poorly made the PRW aluminum rocker arms were. I expected something not as good as some higher end U.S. made rockers, but never thought I'd get something not even usable. The other option I am aware of that's the most reasonably priced are from Precision Oil Pumps.

I'm guessing the intake in installed by now, but ARP has intake studs for small block Ford motors. Makes installing the intake easy and less concern about pulling threads out of those aluminum cylinder heads. Is it my eyes or does that intake not fit the cylinder heads very well? I see the gasket in place but there appears to be a gap at the top and contact at the bottom.

Update, I purchased a set of aluminum PRW rocker arms and will be returning them tomorrow. The quality of the rocker arms is terrible. Finish is rough, one had a small crack on the top surface, a lot of them had lines scored through the top surfaces, and one of the bronze bushings fell out of one of the rocker arms and doesn't have a press fit. Harland Sharp offers a set that fit onto the original shafts. I might go that route. The shafts, stands, and spacers looked fine, but the rocker arms were terrible. I'm guessing the rockers come from a different vendor than the other components. Especially since the shafts, stands and spacers look the same as what everybody else sells. But the rocker arms look unique to PRW.

With those stock rocker arms you have, what kind of valve lift does your cam have? I am using a Comp 280 Magnum that has about 0.530" lift with the non adjustable 1.73:1 rocker arms. With the adjustable 1.76:1 rocker arms it would be 0.540" lift. Is that too much for a stock rocker arm? Open spring pressure is at 280 lbs. I have a set of original adjustable rocker arms in good condition. Machine shop says they have the tooling to resurface the end that contacts the valve tip. Not certain yet if I want to use them.

What rocker arms did you end up using? I'm kind of new to FE motor parts. Why are they so expensive? The machine shop said the import PRW's would work fine because I have relatively low spring pressure. But I've read so many bad things about them. Almost have to just pick something and see what happens.

I should have been more clear, I want adjustable also so I know the lifters are adjusted correctly.

Thanks. So far Precision Oil Pumps has the best price for a U.S. made rocker arm. Since they sell everything in components I'll have to contact them to find out if their rockers will work with the original shafts, and stands. Maybe I can get away with only purchasing their rocker arms and maybe spacers. I'm using a hydraulic flat tappet cam and not a lot of spring pressure, 115 lbs. on seat and 280 lbs. open so from what I understand the stock stands and shafts are just fine. And mine are in good condition. I have a good set of stock adjustable rocker arms but I would prefer something with a roller tip for less valve guide wear.

Since FE motor rocker arms seem so ridiculously expensive, anybody here have experience with the PRW rocker arms for an FE motor? I'm also looking at the Harland Sharp rockers only, and install them on my original shafts. Harland Sharp said they will work with stock shafts, stands, and spring spacers. I'm thinking the stock steel spring spacers are going to grind away at the aluminum rocker arms. Any thoughts are appreciated.