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Everything posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. Yes, you are right, there are thermostat housings with ports already in them. But that is not the correct location for a temp sender. It will not read accurate engine temps when the thermostat is closed.
  2. Coolant temp sensors will not operate any where close to correct unless the sensor is fully submerged in the coolant flow. So having two functioning temp gauges is a little tricky since most intake manifolds only have one correct location for the sensor. For best results you would need to drill and tap another location for the second coolant sensor. Then it's a bit of a gamble that the intake manifold material is thick enough where you drill to obtain a good seal when finished.
  3. My original brass float was filled with fuel so I ended up using the plastic float that is installed on the Spectra brand sender. Since then I've noticed NPD sells reproduction brass floats.
  4. I also installed a TMI headliner in my 69 Mach 1. I installed it before both the front and rear glass were installed. That does make it easier to glue the head liner to the pinch welds and hold it in place with something like pieces of windlace or a lot of small spring clamps and pieces of paint stir sticks. I installed it on a hot day so the material was easier to work with. It installed easier than I expected. You don't really have to stretch the heck out of the material. I only say that because the first headliner I helped install was in a 1967 sports roof Mustang and it had some wrinkles in it. After a few months it was fine and snug. For some reason it seems to fit better with time. As far as one-piece headliners. By themselves they look okay and they look fine in modern cars. But for me, I'm more of a purist, so they look out of place in any car of this time period.
  5. Most are aware the striker will only control the inward and outward position of the rear edge of the door. But there looks to be a slight twist in a finished painted door because the front fender and rocker alignment are fine. Either that, or the front fender also needs more adjusting after the door is correct. By adjusting the striker Topless69GT might be able to obtain a compromise that is acceptable. These cars are 50 years old and panel gaps were not very good to begin with. Sometimes you have to pick your battles instead of loosing more hair trying to make something better than it was when new.
  6. I thought it was something more simple like a slightly different intake port location on the imported GT40 clone cylinder heads. I will add, I have tried many intakes on the 351W in my 69 Mach 1. The Edelbrock Performer RPM and Torker II both sat down lower than the Weiand Stealth that is currently installed. They all sealed just fine, but the fitment was a little different. In the end, of all that I tried the Weiand Stealth provides the best performance for a street driver. At least for my motor, trans, and rear axle combination.
  7. Before twisting of any kind. I think I would try adjusting the striker inward a little. Maybe that will get it close enough. Isn't the typical method, adjust the door to fit the quarter panel and rocker, then adjust the fender to fit the door?
  8. On Saginaw PS pumps there are pressure regulator shim kits available to adjust the pump output pressure. Is there something like that available for the Ford Thompson PS pumps?
  9. Like Barnett mentioned that is a common problem. I thought it was usually related to insufficient pump pressure. I guess it could be the hydraulic cylinder that is attached between the drivers side frame rail and steering center link. But, truthfully, the only issues I've seen with those hydraulic cylinders are leaks.
  10. I wonder if it has something to do with the fact that Weiand states this manifold also fits GT40 and TFS cylinder heads. I haven't seen that listed for the Edelbrock Performer intake.
  11. foothilltom seems to now have a combination that fits together. I wouldn't think there is anything wrong with the Weiand intake manifold.
  12. Great to hear some good news! You'll be happy with the Stealth intake. It works great on 351W motors. Plus it looks better than the Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM. If you look on the bottom of that Stealth intake, I've noticed what looks like a small Buddy Bar logo. That intake has been around for a while. I wonder if Buddy Bar was involved in the design. Maybe somebody else here might have more information on that?
  13. The Weiand Stealth is a good manifold for street 351W motors. That's what I use. Plus it provides a little better hood clearance for an air cleaner than the Edelbrock Performer RPM. But, you better see if it will work with your cylinder heads.
  14. My 1969 351W has the original 1969 cast iron heads, but I use the Fel Pro 9333PT1 head gaskets. It is a Perma Torque head gasket and NOT one of their performance line of head gaskets. They are available at most parts stores or mail order from Jegs or Summit. I spoke to fel pro tech support before using them. What they told me was: (1) their performance line of head gaskets do indeed require retorquing after initial break in. And to retorque you must do the head bolts one at a time in the tightening pattern, loosen the bolt about 1/4 turn then pull back down to full torque. Without loosening you usually will not overcome static friction so the bolt will not be properly retorqued. As a Mechanical Engineer that is true, static friction is easily twice sliding friction. (2) The 9333PT1 is a Perma Torque head gasket that can still tolerate higher compression ratio motors up to about 12:1 static compression ratio. My static compression ratio is 10.7:1 so they recommended the 9333PT1 since I did not want to have to retorque head bolts. I would contact Fel Pro tech support and see if the 9333PT1 is suitable for aluminum heads as well. If it is, it's a fairly good gasket that's easy to get and less costly than some performance gaskets. https://www.felpro.com/contact-us.html
  15. Nice to hear some good news! Take your time reassembling the motor and new intake gaskets. Maybe take a look at Edelbrock's website for instructions and torque specs to install that manifold. Often with aftermarket manifolds the instructions will recommended to use something like Gaskacinch and literally glue the gaskets to the cylinder heads (but not the intake manifold side). Did you recoat the lifters with some assembly lube before reinstalling them? I don't know that it's needed, but might be a little extra insurance.
  16. Most are aware distributors advertised as Ready-To-Run mean they do not need any type of external ignition box or external ignition module. It doesn't mean the timing curve is optimized for your motor. An original distributor would be okay for a mild motor. But, be cautious of a used or rebuilt original distributor. The bushing and breaker plate usually wear out. Bushings are replaced on rebuilt distributors but not breaker plates. It's been a long time since I tinkered with stock ford points distributors, but I remember when the breaker plate wears, as the vacuum advance increases the timing, the dwell reduces. I've seen breaker plates worn to the point that the dwell reduces so much the motor starts misfiring when the vacuum advance starts increasing the timing.
  17. See the post I left in your other thread you started where you posted pictures of the intake manifold and cylinder head. At least by the pictures you can kind of tell what happened. Basically, it looks like wrong intake gaskets. At least that's what it looks like from the pictures. Hopefully there is nothing else odd.
  18. From the gasket imprint on your cylinder heads, it looks like the gasket wasn't covering the tops of the intake ports. Hence, the large vacuum leaks. And from the gasket imprint on the intake manifold, you had the wrong intake gaskets for the rectangular shaped water ports on the cylinder heads. Try the Fel Pro Performance or the Edelbrock intake gaskets I referred to on your other thread.
  19. Sounds like the issue is simply that the stock Felpro replacement intake gaskets that came in the gasket set didn't seal the intake manifold to the heads. With some luck no damage was done to the rest of the motor and a simple oil and filter change is all that is needed. Then I think I'd replace the intake gaskets with either the Edelbrock 7220, Fel Pro Performance 1250 or Fel Pro Performance steel core 1250S3 gaskets.
  20. What intake gaskets did you use? Stock replacement intake gaskets will sometimes not seal up aftermarket intakes. Since you have an Edelbrock intake, they have intake gaskets for it. They are almost identical to the Felpro Performance 1250 intake gaskets. Just a different color and I believe a slightly different material. For Felpro Performance intake gaskets, the most common one used is the 1250. Felpro also has a steel core version of the 1250, the 1250S3, which is a little thicker because of the steel core and also more durable.
  21. If you are using an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold the RTV end seals should be fine. That's typically recommended with aftermarket intakes because once in a while the cork end seals prevent the manifold from completely sealing to the cylinder heads. If you can get your hands on a known good Holley carb from your friend, that might be the first thing to try. Other than that, if the car has power brakes, disconnect and plug the vacuum port on the intake that it connect to as that can be a big vacuum leak. The same applies to any vacuum lines feeding other stuff.
  22. For a Holley carb with only two idle air fuel mixture screws your preliminary adjustment sounds about right. You might try two turns off seat for preliminary adjustments but the issue sounds more severe. Sounds like you either have (1) a large vacuum leak, or (2) the idle passage or passages, or the idle channel restrictors are plugged in the carburetor. The idle channel restrictors are in the metering block. Typical idle channel restrictor sizes s in a Holley gas carb range from about 0.025" to 0.035" depending on the carb. For a Holley carb, make certain every passage is clear in the metering block, main body, and base plate. If you follow them closely you can determine where they enter and exit. The last Holley I rebuilt for a neighbor that sat for a couple of years had idle channel restrictors in a metering block so plugged I needed to use number drills and a pin vise to clear them. Soaking in carb cleaners and compressed air would not clear them. Lastly, make certain the idle air bleeds in the main body are clear. Looking down the top of the main body you will see 8 small brass bleeds, four on the primary side and four on the secondary side. The outer four bleeds are for the idle and transfer circuits and the inner four bleeds are for the main circuit. Let us know what you find.
  23. You are correct. There should be a small hole in the equalizer bar for the spring. It is near where the clutch rod from the pedal attaches to the equalizer bar. As you mentioned the other end attaches to the firewall to a small tab near where the steering column passes through. Your baby blue colored spring is correct for a big block Mustang.
  24. The lower mount rubber pad thickness is the same as the upper mounts. What radiator are you using? Some, like my Griffin has a slightly larger lower tank even though the design mimics the original. So, I had to drop the lower saddle mounts as much as possible lowering the radiator a little, plus increase the mounting slot lengths on the shroud to lower it as much as possible. But, first check the motor mounts like Barnett mentioned. It might be worth replacing the motor mounts to be certain all is okay in that area.
  25. What combination are you using? Years ago I tried an RPM Air Gap with a 1-1/4" drop base 14" diameter x 3" tall filter assembly and it would not come close to fitting. This was on my 1969 Mach 1 with a 351W, stock motor mounts, and stock hood without a shaker.
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