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1969_Mach1

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Everything posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. I missed the fact you currently have stock cast iron exhaust manifolds installed. With those mufflers and stock exhaust manifolds I'd think the exhaust note is fairly quite. Is the motor stock or does it have an aggressive cam with early exhaust valve opening? More aggressive cams increase exhaust noise. As exhaust valves open earlier more of the combustion explosion is heard through the exhaust.
  2. Either way is fine. When I'm not certain if or how much to pump the throttle I will start cranking first.
  3. Are those basic old school turbo style mufflers? If so, those are some of the more quite design for both interior and exterior noise. Is your exhaust well insulated from the car at the hangers so vibrations are not transmitted into the car? Barnett468 is right, headers will increase exhaust noise a lot to the interior of a car. Shorty headers are not as bad as full length headers.
  4. What type of mufflers are you using? Chambered mufflers, especially the small two chamber mufflers tend to cause resonating inside the cabin (more interior noise). Flowmaster's Delta Flow design chambered mufflers are a little better (less interior noise) than the non Delta Flow chambered mufflers with regards to resonating inside the cabin.
  5. Not certain about how long to use break in oil. But after that, and before your winter storage, I'd run it and then store it with some Hot Rod and Classic Car oil from Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing. They have high zinc contents for flat tappet cams and are designed to cling to surfaces specifically for cars that are stored for long periods.
  6. I don't know about years, but to me it looks like the silver one is from a manual brake car and the rusty one is from a power brake car.
  7. If you are building a stroker motor using a 1969 or 1970 351W block you need to keep in mind the deck height on 1969 and 1970 351W blocks are 0.023" shorter than 1971 and newer 351W blocks. 9.480" vs. 9.503" respectively. Therefore piston selection with the correct compression height is critical. Otherwise, the pistons will be above the deck and the static CR will be too high. There are few off-the-shelf standard pistons available for the 1969 and 1970 blocks. Do your homework and math before selecting parts.
  8. Your 600 CFM Holley likely has an electric choke. They work good, but, one drawback of electric chokes is they cool and reset faster than the engine cools. After sitting an hour or two the choke might be closed again, then plus some pumping of the throttle causes the engine to flood. One other possibility is when sitting for an hour or two with a hot engine, the fuel in the carb bowls heats up, percolates and drips into the motor through the circuits inside the carb, thus, flooding the motor. One of those thick heat insulating gaskets or a phenolic carb spacer will usually stop that from occurring. The latter situation is more common when aluminum intakes are installed and the heat crossover passage is not blocked. Another much less common cause of flooding with Holley carbs when the motor sits is leaking metering block gaskets in the carburetor.
  9. I don't drive my Mach 1 much so I don't mind mixing Torco Accelerator with the fuel. I never intended on driving the car much as I was building it. The motor behaves just fine with this mixture. Before using the Torco Accelerator I did use straight 91 octane pump gas. It ran fine, but seems to have more power with the Torco Accelerator mixed in. If you plan on driving the car a lot I would definitely consider a slightly lower static CR so you don't have to worry so much about fuel or additives.
  10. Yes, the 4 barrel 351W motors for 1969 had flat top pistons and the 1969 and 1970 cylinder heads had smaller combustion chambers than the 1971 and newer, 60cc vs. 64cc respectively. Giving the 1969 and 1970 4 barrel 351W a 10.7:1 static compression ratio. My 69 351W is a factory 4 barrel with 10.7:1 CR. The static CR has been calculated several times and it is in fact 10.7:1. I haven't heard any pinging running 91 octane fuel. As a precaution I do now mix Torco Accelerator with 91 octane pump gas at a ratio to obtain 94-95 octane. Plus, the motor seems to run better and I can advance the timing and speed up the advance curve from stock settings. Keep in mind, camshafts play a big role in determining the dynamic compression ratio. Stock cams will increase the dynamic CR vs. aggressive cams that will reduce the dynamic CR. Also, keep the motor running cool, mine runs at about 175-180 deg. F and make certain the A/F mixture is not too lean. You know, you want to see a little color on the plugs and not have them white like on new cars. Is your motor stock, have you changed the camshaft or anything else?
  11. I think the OP is referring to the clutch fork pivot ball and not the Z-bar bushings (Z-bar bushings are also needed). For 1969, there is not a pivot ball for the clutch fork. Instead it uses a Fulcrum. From the factory this Fulcrum is riveted to the bell housing. The rivets can be drilled out and flat head allen bolts and lock nuts used to install the new Fulcrum. If yours has some type of pivot ball, somewhere in the cars life the wrong bell housing has been installed. NPD sells new Fulcrums. https://www.npdlink.com/product/fulcrum-clutch-release-lever-on-bellhousing-good-repro/149913?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dclutch%2Bfork%2Blever%2Bassembly%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 It sounds like the clutch linkage needs to be rebuilt from the pedal all the way to the clutch to make correct and reliable.
  12. If you have a stock replacement clutch assembly, then a stock replacement clutch rod should be fine. From what I understand the stock clutch linkage cannot tolerate clutch assemblies with much more clamping force than stock. If you want linkage that is a little better than stock, take a look at Opentracker Racing. They sell linkage kits with spherical rod ends. They're a bit pricey, but probable work better.
  13. If you have a stock oil pump, a stock replacement oil pump drive shaft is fine, if it is a high volume, or hopefully not a high pressure pump, then a hardened oil pump drive shaft is recommended.
  14. The top of the oil pump drive has a chamfer on it, the bottom of the distributor shaft has a chamfer on the inside edge. Unless the oil pump drive is wedged to one side and cannot move, the distributor will drop into place. It sometimes takes some work when installing the distributor to get both the distributor and cam gears meshed, and the distributor shaft onto the oil pump drive. Your not doing something odd like trying to install a 302 distributor into a 351W? Because that wouldn't work.
  15. If the cable routing is correct, not kinked, or bent too much to make a turn, then I would remove the speedo and bench test it. These are 50 year old mechanical parts. They do wear out. I'd do like barnett468 mentioned and look for a used original speedo cable. If you cannot find anything on eBay, my go to place for used original or NOS stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises.
  16. Nice picture. But, I wouldn't say the Shelby is a cooler car, just different. As you can guess, I've never been awe-struck over Shelby Mustangs. Why some think they are the best thing since sliced bread is beyond me.
  17. After the dash pad, a few more screws and the instrument panel an be removed. I was able to cut off the end of the inner cable of an old speedo cable, put in a drill, and operate the speedo on the bench. Maybe you can rig up something in a drill and check the speedo on the bench. That's how I found out the noise I had was coming from the speedo itself. If yours seems okay on the bench, then replace the cable while the dash pad is off. If yours is a factory air conditioned car, proceeding like you are by removing the dash pad is the only way to get to the speedo cable.
  18. You will need a new cable to get that plastic retainer clip. I purchased my speedo cable so long ago it was from a Ford dealer. I don't know what the aftermarket offers these days. If the speedo is working correctly, then the cable has not come out far enough to cause a noise issue. Usually, when cables are causing noises, the speedo needle is also not steady? At this point, regardless of what's causing the noise, speedo, or cable, a new cable should be installed. What type of noise are you hearing?
  19. Very well be the cable. But, I have had a worn speedo make a high pitch metallic chirp-chirp-chirp squeaky noise.
  20. Changing the steering box does not affect or change the steering linkage or suspension geometry. With that in mind, bump steer will not occur from simply changing the steering box. It's probably either the tires like barnet468 mentioned or your steering box was not centered before installing the pitman arm and/or rag joint/steering column assembly. After installing my Borgeson steering box, I reset the toe with a tape measure then did a fine centering of the steering wheel with the tie rod adjusting sleeves and it steers just fine. I didn't increase the caster like is suggested for better steering wheel return to center, but that doesn't bother me.
  21. You are probably better off getting used complete harnesses. I say this because the original door harnesses have a lot of plastic channels that bolt to the inside of the door. This keeps the wiring from interfering with the window and window regulator mechanism. New harnesses are fine if you still have all those plastic channels or can also get the plastic channels. If I recall correctly, those channels are not easily removed from the harness assembly, so they are probably gone as well. My go to place for stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises. Some say their prices are high. But I have only found that to be on the more rare items that are expensive everywhere and not the commonly found items.
  22. I don't understand why you need a 90 degree thermostat housing? Like Barnett468 mentioned, there is no need for that with A/C.
  23. I found an early 1970's NOS RCA brand AM/FM/8-track with 4-way fader on ebay. I installed Blaupunkt 6x9 speakers in one of those aftermarket trap doors in the back and 4" kick panel speakers up front. It installed using the stock front and rear mounting brackets and sounds much better than I had expected. At least the AM/FM portion. I'm older but not old enough to own any 8-tracks.
  24. The description is a bit confusing. I don't think you are experiencing bump steer. It's very critical that you center the steering box before reinstalling the pitman arm, rag joint, column and steering wheel. If you do not, then when the steering wheel is straight the box will be positioned off of "center steer" The way the gears are cut inside a steering box, when it is in it's centered steer position there is no "play" between the gears. The steering gears actually have an interference fit in the center steer position. This occurs for about 1/4-1/2 revolution through center position. As the box comes off of center there is some play between the gears. On borgeson boxes the sector shaft where the pitman arm attached has 4 master splines master splines plus there is no master spline on the input (worm gear) shaft. This leaves you to find the steering box center as best possible before installing the pitmant arm, rag joint, column and steering wheel. If your steering box was not centered, you will have a lot of play in the steering wheel when going straight which might be what you are experiencing.
  25. I don't think that angled cup is included with any of the available light switches. If yours is missing , somebody here might have one they can part with. If not, Perogie Enterprises likely will have a used original.
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