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1969_Mach1

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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1


  1. Been a while, but I believe the FMX uses both a vacuum modular valve and a rod from the carb linkage to the trans.  I'm don't know much about automatic transmissions.  But, I believe the vacuum modulator valve controls shift points under normal driving.  The other is to force downshifts, increase line pressure, or both (not certain) under hard acceleration from a normal cruise.


  2. I know this has been discussed before.  First of all I am freshening a 390 that was built back in about 1980.  I was only driven about 200 miles and has been parked since about 1986.  I am now in the process of installing new valve springs and valve seals on the cylinder heads.  I am using springs Comp suggested for their hydraulic flat tappet cam I am installing.

    Here is the issue I have come across.  When the these heads were rebuilt back in 1980 hardened exhaust were not installed.  Of course back then pump gas still had some lead in it so the valve seats look just fine.  Are hardened exhaust seats really needed for a car that might only see a few hundred miles per year?  I get conflicting information on this.  Some say Ford's castings are a harder alloy so it's not as critical as GM castings.  Any information is appreciated.


  3. It should be a 157 tooth flywheel unless a previous owner changed it.  Changing it to a 164 tooth flywheel would have involved many other parts as well, bellhousing, starter, clutch assembly from a 10.5" to an 11", and clutch lever.  Plus, I am not certain a 302 Z-bar which is designed for a 10.5" clutch and 157 tooth flywheel setup would work correctly with a 164 tooth flywheel setup.


  4. Barnett, you mentioned a high volume oil pump is extra insurance in some cases.  To be clear, I am talking about only high volume and not high pressure. But, when is it good to use one?  I've read all sorts of different ideas on high volume oil pumps for FE motors.  Some people always use them without any problems and others say don't use one if you are using the stock oil pan because FE motors don't drain back oil very fast so a high volume oil pump can empty a stock oil pan.


  5. I'm freshening a 390 that's been sitting for a long time for another project of mine.  Basically it only has a couple hundred miles on it but has been sitting for about 33 years.  The motor looks good and better than I expected inside so basically I am cleaning it and regasketing the entire motor.

    While I have the cylinder heads off I've read on the FE forums it's a good idea to install a restrictor in the oil passage in each cylinder head that feeds the rocker arm assembly.  It seems easy enough to do while the heads are off.  Simply tap the oil feed hole in the boss that feeds the rocker arm assembly and make a restrictor from a brass allen head set screw.

    I'm using a stock oil pump and don't have any other oiling modifications done to it.  My questions are:

    1)  Are restrictors helpful on FE motors?  Everything I have read say FE motors over oil the rocker arms and the restrictors help divert more oil to the main bearings where it needs more.

    2) About what size restrictors should be installed if they are used?

    Thanks for any help on this I am kind of new to the FE series motors.


  6. I guess I should update this thread.  Since I refilled my top loader 4sp with Sta-Lube 85W90 gear oil that is only GL4 rated it works just fine.  No strange issues at all.  I found the Sta-Lube GL4 gear oil at my local NAPA store.  So from my experience I'd avoid the Driven brand GL4 gear oil from Joe Gibbs Racing unless you plan on driving the car hard most of the time.  The Driven brand gear oil is made to run off and not cling to surfaces to reduce parasitic drag.  This makes for hard difficult shifting under normal driving.


  7. Thanks for the replies and information.  Mystang, I have both the assembly lube that came with the cam, that red sticky thick oil, and Driven engine assembly lube which lokks like a black grease.  I was planning on using the assembly lube that came with the cam.  The motor will sit a few months before it can be started, is the Driven engine assembly lube better for this or stay with the stuff that came with the cam?


  8. I need Break In oil for a 390 FE motor.  It has a new flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam.  I like Lucus oils and they now have a break in oil I'd like to use.  But Driven break In oil has been recommended.  It's been so long that last time I had to break in a new flat tappet cam, there was no need for Break In oils.  What brands of Break In oil have other members used?


  9. I've installed double roller timing chain and gear sets on a couple of 351W motors and never had an issue with the oil slinger rubbing on anything.  Both Cloyes true roller and Ford Racing's double roller timing chain and gear sets have fit just fine. I will admit the Ford Racing set fits better than the Cloyes set.  Either way, I'd definitely install the oil slinger.  It will help block oil from getting to the front seal, thus help reduce any potential leaks.


  10. 19 hours ago, Mystang said:

        I completed the UCA drop and roller spring perch install with little noticeable improvement. 

        With the 235/60/15 tires on the front I was still less than happy, but after mounting a new set of 205/70/15, I found the drivability to be much better. I further found that the car drove better as I reduced air pressure incrementally till I reached 25 PSI (front only)

        I'm happy with the steering and handling but will almost certainly add the power steering over the winter.

        

    I have also done the UCA drop on my Mach 1.  But not for any type of wandering issues.  The UCA drop is to reduce the camber change as the wheel travels throughout it's up and down travel maintaining more tire contact with the road.  It has nothing to do with wandering issues.  I use the stock tire size on my Mach1, 215-70 14 on the original wheels.  I have never had any type of wandering issues.


  11. I missed the fact you currently have stock cast iron exhaust manifolds installed.  With those mufflers and stock exhaust manifolds I'd think the exhaust note is fairly quite. Is the motor stock or does it have an aggressive cam with early exhaust valve opening?  More aggressive cams increase exhaust noise.  As exhaust valves open earlier more of the combustion explosion is heard through the exhaust.


  12. Are those basic old school turbo style mufflers?  If so, those are some of the more quite design for both interior and exterior noise.  Is your exhaust well insulated from the car at the hangers so vibrations are not transmitted into the car?

    Barnett468 is right, headers will increase exhaust noise a lot to the interior of a car.  Shorty headers are not as bad as full length headers.


  13. Not certain about how long to use break in oil.  But after that, and before your winter storage, I'd run it and then store it with some Hot Rod and Classic Car oil from Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing.  They have high zinc contents for flat tappet cams and are designed to cling to surfaces specifically for cars that are stored for long periods.


  14. If you are building a stroker motor using a 1969 or 1970 351W block you need to keep in mind the deck height on 1969 and 1970 351W blocks are 0.023" shorter than 1971 and newer 351W blocks.  9.480" vs. 9.503" respectively.  Therefore piston selection with the correct compression height is critical.  Otherwise, the pistons will be above the deck and the static CR will be too high.  There are few off-the-shelf standard pistons available for the 1969 and 1970 blocks.  Do your homework and math before selecting parts. 


  15. Your 600 CFM Holley likely has an electric choke.  They work good, but, one drawback of electric chokes is they cool and reset faster than the engine cools.  After sitting an hour or two the choke might be closed again, then plus some pumping of the throttle causes the engine to flood.  One other possibility is when sitting for an hour or two with a hot engine, the fuel in the carb bowls heats up, percolates and drips into the motor through the circuits inside the carb, thus, flooding the motor.  One of those thick heat insulating gaskets or a phenolic carb spacer will usually stop that from occurring.  The latter situation is more common when aluminum intakes are installed and the heat crossover passage is not blocked.  Another much less common cause of flooding with Holley carbs when the motor sits is leaking metering block gaskets in the carburetor.

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