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1969_Mach1

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Everything posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. I guess if they were available somewhere you would know about it. For now I'll do without the three wire plug, and solder and shrink tube the connections.
  2. For a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 without a factory tachometer, does anybody make a repair connector and pigtail for the alternator? I'm talking about the three pin connector in the main harness that plugs into that short harness that goes to the alternator. It is a 351W car, but I don't think that matters.
  3. Well, the good news is I don't plan on cruising down the freeway in this truck. Mainly just driving around town in good weather. You have to spend a lot more money than I have on the chassis to make these comfortable to cruise down the freeway. After looking at your numbers, the 3.54 rear axle gears are more appealing. Summit has a two that I have looked at. One from TCI and one from Hughes. The TCI has a stall rating of 1700 RPM and the Hughes has a stall rating of 2000 RPM. I think either would work fine. Normal drivability might be better with the TCI converter.
  4. For rear end gear, I am going back and forth between a 3.54:1 or a 3.73:1. Those are both offered for the Dana rear axle it has. The tires are 255-60R15. That is the largest that will fit without and sheet metal modifications to the bed.
  5. Question: Comp Cams suggests a 2000 RPM stall speed torque converter for the cam I am using. I see in my 1969 Ford service manuals that Ford offered several different torque converters for the C6 and 390 and 428 motors. Stall speeds ranged from about 1680 RPM for the 390 to 2100 RPM for the 428. Before I go aftermarket, can I get a rebuilt original torque converter from a trans shop, for example for a C6 with a 428 and expect it to have the stall speed listed in my Ford service manuals? Or are these rebuilt OEM converters widely universal fits-all and who knows what stall speed it will have? I know this is a Mustang forum, but, this is in a 1956 F100 pickup. The C6 was rebuilt and has a rebuilt torque converter. It has never been run and I have no idea what torque converter was installed. All I know is it's a light blue in color like the Pro-King brand rebuilt torque converters. I basically am looking for a torque converter that will not need to have the idle speed high just to keep the motor running when in gear. And I don't want it to lunge hard and creep hard when dropping it into gear. I've been in that situation before when I was much younger, it doesn't take long to get annoying.
  6. What intake manifold gaskets fit correctly on the 390 Ford? I have an aluminum intake manifold (old Holley Street Dominator) so I purchased the Fel Pro Performance intake gaskets, p/n 1247S3. On the cylinder heads, these gaskets leave a small portion of the heat crossover passage exposed on the lower end. This would let exhaust gases into the crankcase. I'm thinking of using stock Fel Pro gaskets with Ultra Grey silicone end seals. Before I do, I was wondering if there is a better option.
  7. That is a good point about the stock exhaust manifolds. Aside from merely fitting, they are terrible. I use JBA headers on my 351W.
  8. I did my 1969 C9OE 351W heads like Ridge Runner mentioned. It took a couple of weeks for a couple hours a day after work. On the exhaust I removed the thermactor hump on the roof of the ports, port matched them to my header gaskets, smoothed and polished the ports as best I could. On the intake I merely port matched them to the intake gaskets I am using, Fel Pro 1250S-3. That took very little effort because the intake ports on the C9OE heads are fairly large to begin with. The machine shop then installed 1.94" intake, 1.60" exhaust valves, and screw in rocker arm studs. I'm happy with them. Motor seems to run good.
  9. Been a while, but I believe the FMX uses both a vacuum modular valve and a rod from the carb linkage to the trans. I'm don't know much about automatic transmissions. But, I believe the vacuum modulator valve controls shift points under normal driving. The other is to force downshifts, increase line pressure, or both (not certain) under hard acceleration from a normal cruise.
  10. I agree, the idle speed sounds higher than it needs to be. Cam sounds fairly mild so you should be able to drop the idle speed some.
  11. Thanks for the information. It's pretty much similar to everything I've read, hard seats are not so critical on cars that are only occasionally driven. Red Line makes a lead substitute that looks good. It claims to not cause any valve sticking issues like other lead substitutes. And the mixture is small, 1 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel.
  12. I know this has been discussed before. First of all I am freshening a 390 that was built back in about 1980. I was only driven about 200 miles and has been parked since about 1986. I am now in the process of installing new valve springs and valve seals on the cylinder heads. I am using springs Comp suggested for their hydraulic flat tappet cam I am installing. Here is the issue I have come across. When the these heads were rebuilt back in 1980 hardened exhaust were not installed. Of course back then pump gas still had some lead in it so the valve seats look just fine. Are hardened exhaust seats really needed for a car that might only see a few hundred miles per year? I get conflicting information on this. Some say Ford's castings are a harder alloy so it's not as critical as GM castings. Any information is appreciated.
  13. It should be a 157 tooth flywheel unless a previous owner changed it. Changing it to a 164 tooth flywheel would have involved many other parts as well, bellhousing, starter, clutch assembly from a 10.5" to an 11", and clutch lever. Plus, I am not certain a 302 Z-bar which is designed for a 10.5" clutch and 157 tooth flywheel setup would work correctly with a 164 tooth flywheel setup.
  14. Barnett, you mentioned a high volume oil pump is extra insurance in some cases. To be clear, I am talking about only high volume and not high pressure. But, when is it good to use one? I've read all sorts of different ideas on high volume oil pumps for FE motors. Some people always use them without any problems and others say don't use one if you are using the stock oil pan because FE motors don't drain back oil very fast so a high volume oil pump can empty a stock oil pan.
  15. Your the second person that told me to contact Rocker Arms Unlimited. Now I'm more curious, I'll give them a call. Thanks for the info.
  16. Yeah I'm using stock rocker arms. I plan to eventually change to the adjustable type, but not roller. Either used originals or I've seen a set on Jeg's website that look very much like the originals. I don't know who makes them, but the price isn't too bad. Is the cobra jet style oil filter adapter being reproduced?
  17. I'm freshening a 390 that's been sitting for a long time for another project of mine. Basically it only has a couple hundred miles on it but has been sitting for about 33 years. The motor looks good and better than I expected inside so basically I am cleaning it and regasketing the entire motor. While I have the cylinder heads off I've read on the FE forums it's a good idea to install a restrictor in the oil passage in each cylinder head that feeds the rocker arm assembly. It seems easy enough to do while the heads are off. Simply tap the oil feed hole in the boss that feeds the rocker arm assembly and make a restrictor from a brass allen head set screw. I'm using a stock oil pump and don't have any other oiling modifications done to it. My questions are: 1) Are restrictors helpful on FE motors? Everything I have read say FE motors over oil the rocker arms and the restrictors help divert more oil to the main bearings where it needs more. 2) About what size restrictors should be installed if they are used? Thanks for any help on this I am kind of new to the FE series motors.
  18. I guess I should update this thread. Since I refilled my top loader 4sp with Sta-Lube 85W90 gear oil that is only GL4 rated it works just fine. No strange issues at all. I found the Sta-Lube GL4 gear oil at my local NAPA store. So from my experience I'd avoid the Driven brand GL4 gear oil from Joe Gibbs Racing unless you plan on driving the car hard most of the time. The Driven brand gear oil is made to run off and not cling to surfaces to reduce parasitic drag. This makes for hard difficult shifting under normal driving.
  19. Okay, I watched the first 35 seconds of that video, it was too painful. Ford needs to bring in some more experienced designers. First, the thing is hideous. Second, it looks like a copy of a vehicle from another manufacturer.
  20. Thanks for the replies and information. Mystang, I have both the assembly lube that came with the cam, that red sticky thick oil, and Driven engine assembly lube which lokks like a black grease. I was planning on using the assembly lube that came with the cam. The motor will sit a few months before it can be started, is the Driven engine assembly lube better for this or stay with the stuff that came with the cam?
  21. I need Break In oil for a 390 FE motor. It has a new flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam. I like Lucus oils and they now have a break in oil I'd like to use. But Driven break In oil has been recommended. It's been so long that last time I had to break in a new flat tappet cam, there was no need for Break In oils. What brands of Break In oil have other members used?
  22. I've installed double roller timing chain and gear sets on a couple of 351W motors and never had an issue with the oil slinger rubbing on anything. Both Cloyes true roller and Ford Racing's double roller timing chain and gear sets have fit just fine. I will admit the Ford Racing set fits better than the Cloyes set. Either way, I'd definitely install the oil slinger. It will help block oil from getting to the front seal, thus help reduce any potential leaks.
  23. I'm a little confused as to why it was pinging in the first place with either 98 or 95 octane fuel and only 10:1 static compression ratio. Is the motor running too lean with that 600 cfm holley carb? Or running too hot?
  24. I was not aware of that. I guess I learned something new today.
  25. I have also done the UCA drop on my Mach 1. But not for any type of wandering issues. The UCA drop is to reduce the camber change as the wheel travels throughout it's up and down travel maintaining more tire contact with the road. It has nothing to do with wandering issues. I use the stock tire size on my Mach1, 215-70 14 on the original wheels. I have never had any type of wandering issues.
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