1969_Mach1

I am assuming you are talking about a 1969 fastback (Sportsroof) model and those came with two spacers fitting between the column bracket and where it attaches to the pedal support under the dash. It is an aluminum spacer and it is 1" x1" square and I think 3/8" thick and for some reason Ford wanted the column lower on Sportsroof models. If you remove those spacers the steering wheel will move up about 3/4"-1". That might be enough to help. That's what I did on my 1969 Mach 1. After you remove those spacers you will need to replace the small trim panel below the column and that round/oval rubber trim piece that fits over the column with those for a coupe. But, those are being reproduced and relatively inexpensive. After you are finished. from the engine compartment side of the firewall, make certain the steering shaft is fairly centered in the column. You might need to loosen the column floor mount and readjust it a little.

First, make certain you are using a performance intake gasket set, like the Fel-Pro 1250, 1250S3 which is a steel core version of the 1250, Edelbrock 7220, etc. The Edelbrock 7220 seems to last longer on a street car than the Fel-Pro 1250. Aftermarket intake sometimes do not fit as well as OEM and once in a while a stock replacement intake gasket will not seal an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold. Lastly, regarding the end seals I would install it per the instructions using RTV unless the end gaps are large like 70Mach1rb mentions. Once in a while, if the end gaps are small, cork end seals will prevent the aluminum intake from properly sealing to the cylinder heads. OEM intakes don't seem to have these issues.

All I can add is it doesn't belong on a 1969 Mustang.

They look fairly correct in the picture. Will the control arms reinstall? I wouldn't drill one hole to 9/16". Do you have a die grinder with carbide burrs to simply open up one of the holes to the inside a little? Bolt on the template to scribe where the holes should be. Do you know somebody that can weld to simply fill in a little of the outer edge of one of the holes then dress it up again with a die grinder and carbide burrs? When I made my template, the new holes in the template were merely 1/8" diameter for a pilot drill. I bolted them in place and drilled 1/8" pilot holes, then removed them to drill to the final size in a couple of steps. It seems stupid to make these templates with the new holes drilled to the final size.

The venturi (not the boosters) is the hour glass shaped portion inside the main body. The specified dimension is the smallest diameter portion of the venturi. That's the location of maximum air velocity as it passes through the carb. You might have to get creative to find a way to measure it.

It's correct but I didn't use any shims. The rubber washers seal the holes so adding shims might be counter productive. Try to install without the shims. Do you have the correct wavy washers that go between the bracket and the inside of the bumper?

I'd also ask what is the static compression ratio of the motor? You should definitely know that before doing a cam swap. Old school to make more power is increase cylinder pressure by increasing the static compression ratio. A more aggressive cam with a low compression motor will make things worse. I like the Weiand Stealth intake and use one myself. But the runners are fairly small near the exit at the cylinder head. I'm sure there is a limit on what power it's capable of supporting. I don't know if it helped or not but I at least gasket matched and blended the intake runners at the runner exits to match my cylinder heads.

Temp issues like described are often from insufficient circulation. But, first double check your temps like bigmal suggested. The reason I say this is I ran a 95 amp 3G alternator for a while. My charging voltage was always in the upper 14V to low 15V and my oil pressure, temp, and fuel gauges always indicated higher than I thought they should be. I since switched to an OEM style alternator with external regulator. Now my charging system voltage dropped to 13.8 to 14.2 volts and my gauge readings dropped down. I know there is a 5V regulator on the back of the instrument panel, but at least in my case, it seems to work better with the lower charging system voltage. For the thermostat, I've always used a high flow type. Mr. Gasket and I know Stewart sells them. I've had better performance with the Stewart high flow thermostats that have the additional bleed holes. My personal preference is 160 degree thermostat. But many like the 180 degree thermostat. If you put thermostats in hot water you'll notice they do not fully open until about 10-15 degrees above the rated temp. So you can see with a good cooling system the operating temps will be about 10-15 degrees above the thermostat rating. Regardless of your preference I would install a high flow thermostat. I don't know if that will fix your entire issue, but they seem to work better in these cars.

I don't think this has anything to do with your new headers and exhaust. When is the engine temp rising, stop and go traffic, cruising 30 mph or above? What was the outdoor temp when this happened? What radiator is in the car? What thermostat in in the motor? What type of fan is on the motor? As you can see, there are several variables. The motor might be running leaner now with the new exhaust. Too lean will cause rising engine temps. So will ignition timing not being advanced enough. Have you looked at any spark plugs?

I also use the same type of starter on my 351W with JBA mid length (short) headers. I agree, after reading the instructions the solenoid needs a good power on wire. I installed mine per instructions and installed a short 10 ga. jumper wire between the battery post terminal and the power terminal on the starter's solenoid. The stock fender mounted starter relay is wired as original. So far all is okay.

From the description I'd think there is a brake fluid leak somewhere or the master cylinder is bad (leaking internally). Make certain to pull the rear wheels and brake drums and check the wheel cylinders for leaks. Sometimes the brake dust and brake shoes will absorb a lot of fluid from a leaking wheel cylinder before you see fluid on the ground. The hissing sound is from the brake booster. I don't have a lot of brake booster experience. It may be just starting to leak vacuum. But, typically if the booster is leaking vacuum the motor should run rougher when you hear that noise. How does the motor run when you hear the that noise?

They look like hood lettering form an earlier year Mustang.

What does "slowly faded and completely stopped working" mean? Pedal went to the floor? If that's the case then look at the master cylinder if there are no external leaks. It might be leaking internally. Or, it was slowly more difficult to push the pedal? In that case, like others mentioned, look at the brake booster. But, with a bad booster the brakes should still work, just extremely difficult to press the pedal, like skidmarky mentioned.

If you don't have the instructions for that distributor, get them from the MSD website. It has graphs of timing curves with all the combinations of springs and stop bushings available. They help take guess work out of selecting the appropriate springs and stop bushings. As a starting point I set my MSD Pro Billet distributor up as close as possible to the curves in the Ford reproduction service manuals. By the time you get the initial timing and mechanical advance setup, you likely will not need the vacuum advance. Do a compression test like Barnett mentioned to help find the oil consumption problem.

Why don't you have a machine shop clean the heads, regrind the seats with 5 angles, and even though the valves are new, they'd probably lightly grind them to be certain they are okay.

Great news. In your video, it sounded like the old familiar fuel pump noise.

As far as oils, double check the oil you use. Many contain friction modifiers and there is no need to add more. I use Lucus GL-5 rated gear oil in my OEM Ford Traction-Loc without any additional modifiers and it works fine.

Depending on what Comp cam you installed the firing order will either be 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 if the cam part number started with 31, or it will be 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 if the cam part number started with 35. Make certain you adjusted the valves correctly. Comp cams has some good instructions on how to do that. You almost need to do a cylinder leakage test to determine where all the leakage is. From your descriptions it sounds like the rings are leaking badly. But, it's a new motor which is odd. If it's truly washing the cylinders with fuel, that is bad for the rings. Cam timing being wrong will cause low cylinder pressure as well. The motor might run, but not like it should. Some work involved to check the cam timing, but might be worth it

You should never install a torque convertor dry. It's doesn't need to be full, but needs to have at least 1 qt. of oil in it. Aside from that, I think your trans is simply not full enough yet. They will start acting strange when just 1 qt. low.

The original glass is Carlite brand. Ford still uses that same brand today. Carlite is still available for these older Mustangs. Double check, I think Carlite is what NPD sells.

Maybe the fuel pump? I have heard fuel pumps make that type of noise. Doesn't sound like valvetrain. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope?

I guess they don't ask for EPA license when you buy the R12? When I've seen it on eBay, they've always required the buyer to have an EPA license.

I agree. Also, Standard Motor Products use to have a performance line called Blue Streak. They have brought some of it back. I have seen Blue Streak spark plug wires and distributor cap on Summit Racing's website. For an OEM distributor I'd first try to get Blue Streak. Other than that, Napa's Echlin line is usually fairly good if you just want to walk into a parts store to get it.

The R12/R22 refrigerant oil I've always installed is fairly clear in color. It may have a very slight tan color to it. With that said, the few times I've added a sealant to an R12 A/C system, the sealant was always red in color. I'm thinking that is what you saw when you removed the pressure gauge. Since it was low on refrigerant, did you find and repair any leaks? Do you have the tools needed to evacuate and recharge the system, I.E. manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, and some means of leak detection? If you can find R12 at a reasonable price, I'm sure there are others here that would like to know about it.

Are you still running the stock type power steering? If so, is the control valve in good condition? I kind of agree with Barnett that the wheels and tires are most of the problem. Or at least exaggerating another problem like not enough positive caster or a problem with the control valve.