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Everything posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. Let us know what shipping is to Texas from Coker tire. To California from them was $250 for four tires and wheels. Four tires without wheels was $120. I simply can not pay that. I could purchase 5 tires from Summit Racing or locally for the price of four plus shipping from Coker.
  2. Regarding the Edelbrock water pumps, I installed one many years ago. They are nice, well made, nice finish. But I learned at least in my case, the water pump seal doesn't last very long. I got maybe a year out of it. I guess I could have shipped it back to Edelbrock and got it repaired. But I didn't think I should have to go through that hassle after spending more than it's worth to begin with. So, I threw it in the garbage can. I won't spend that kind of money on another one.
  3. I've had good luck with Motive Gear ring and pinion sets. That is Motive Gear's Performance Series, not their OEM replacement series and not their Pro Performance Series. They have setup easily and I haven't had any noise issues. Yukon Gear and US Gear are very good as well. If you want a ratio, like a 3.90:1, that was an OEM ratio and is not offered aftermarket then you'd have to try somebody like RPM suggested.
  4. That's true. The Holley electric chokes need 12V. I don't know what the OEM electric choke requirements were back in 1973. Might have been less than 12V
  5. The starter solenoid IGN terminal should only have 12V during crank. After that, if there is power at that terminal it would be less than 12V. If you look at a wiring diagram it's easy to understand why. Connecting the choke to that terminal is the same as connecting it to the + or - side of the ignition coil which is incorrect. If you are looking for the easiest method, try the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator (if you car doesn't have a factory tach). Your first issue is to connect the choke wiring correctly and set it so the choke plate snaps completely shut when cold. That choke has an internal choke pull off so as soon as the motor starts up, engine vacuum operates the choke pull off and immediately opens the choke plate roughly 1/4" or so to prevent the motor from flooding.
  6. I'm not certain how the electric is connected. If is to the ignition coil like gordonr believes, that is definitely wrong. The STA terminal on the alternator is only 1/2 of the charging system voltage, so that's not a good place to connect the choke. According to my Ford service manual fuse #4 in the fuse panel is a spare. Check to see if it only has power in the run position, if so, try tapping into that for the choke. If not, my next choice would be go to the ignition switch on a terminal that only has 12V in the run position. If your car is not a factory tach car and has a factory ammeter, some have also used the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator which is easier to get to. After the wiring to the choke is fixed, it also sounds like the choke spring is set too loose. The choke plate should snap completely shut when cold. Start with the mark on the plastic choke cap lined up with the center arrow on the choke housing. Did the carb you are using come with the electric choke installed from the factory? I only ask because the electric choke conversion kits that are available for us to install come in two styles, one that needs an external vacuum hose connected to it and one that doesn't. Holley has a video with basic information on choke adjustments. https://www.holley.com/blog/post/holley_carburetor_choke_adjustment_tips/
  7. Is the only issue running rough when cold? If so, I'd first double check the choke settings, make certain the choke pull off is working and adjusted correctly, and the fast idle set correctly. What carb is it and what type of choke setup does it have? Could also be a bad spark plug wire or spark plug. Cold engines put more demand on the secondary side of the ignition system (coil, rotor, cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs) and issues will show up when cold. Also, under load like hard acceleration or up hills puts more demand on the secondary side of the ignition system. I haven't used Pertronix but I have heard many stories of the ignition module burning up if the ignition switch is left on for more than a couple of minutes with the motor not running. For the 12V coil, you can get a 12V source directly from the ignition switch. You won't need a relay setup. Another member here, Midlife, will likely know exactly what terminal to use on the ignition switch.
  8. Yes you need a timing cover to work with a reverse rotation water pump. As far as the timing pointer, I am not certain. 1969 and older had a pointer on the drivers side and a lower radiator hose on the passenger side. 1970 and newer had the timing pointer on the passenger side and the lower radiator hose on the drivers side. I imagine your timing pointer will be on the passenger side. You need the correct harmonic balancer to work with that as well, 1970 and newer and it will have 4 bolts for the pulley to attach. The 1969 and older balancer has 3 bolts for the pulley to attach.
  9. A couple of things I have discovered using the stock 4 barrel linkage bracket with universal Holley 4 barrel carbs. First, it will only bolt on with vacuum secondary carbs and not mechanical secondary carbs. Second, if you attach the linkage ball to the predrilled hole that's intended for it in the Holley primary throttle lever you will not get full throttle. I had to modify mine both to fit a mechanical secondary Holley 4 barrel and to get full throttle. NPD use to carry the stainless bracket J's 69mach1 is using. But for some reason it's discontinued. Maybe there are other sources for it.
  10. I have the same setup, 351W and 4sp toploader with a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. I simply purchased the backup light switch, retainer, and harness to the switch for a 1970 Mustang with a 4sp. As long as you have bracket #10 shown in the above diagram rockhouse66 posted it will work just fine.
  11. I did have the same problems. When I fist assembled it my thoughts were how is this going to ever work. There is very little room in that area with this motor, trans and 11" clutch combination.
  12. There is vented, a warning and made in USA on it. But I don't see a brand or part number. I haven't looked recently, but I thought I have seen this small twist on gas cap in National Parts Depot's catalog. To me, the warning and made in USA lettering on it does look like lettering Stant uses on their products. For some reason every time I look at it I think it's made by Stant.
  13. I have the same setup. 351W, Toploader 4sp, and the 11" clutch and bellhousing setup for 351W motors. I have a custom bent exhaust and JBA short headers, and not the factory style H-pipe. But room is still very limited. I removed that pin for the spring and attached the spring to the hole for the pin in the Z-bar. I also had to bend the lever on the Z-bar a little (not much) to better alignment with the shift fork. You can also bend only the portion of the lever that the spring attaches to on the Z-bar. The pin will still need to be eliminated. You might also try moving the rod to the other side of the lever on the Z-bar for more clearance.
  14. Mine is exactly like the one shown above. It's an NOS original Ford pop open gas cap that Ford redesigned a few years after the type you have. The pop open part is identical to yours but is a cover and a small twist on gas cap fits inside. The twist on cap is vented. The original style like yours can pop open in an accident and fuel will spill out. The redesigned type like mine was for safety reasons.
  15. What gas cap do you have? The original pop open cap or the pop open cap Ford redesigned a few years later for safety reasons. I have the later OEM Ford redesigned version, the cover pops open like the original, then there is a twist on cap inside. The twist on cap is vented so it doesn't rely on that small notch in the filler neck.
  16. I use to run a bend of 110 octane race fuel with 91 octane pump gas back when I could easily find the race gas at local motorcycle dealers. I didn't have detonation issues, but with 10.7:1 CR the motor ran much better. Since the race gas is no longer easily available for me I switched to using Torco Accelerator. With the Torco Accelerator mixed to get 95 octane the motor runs as good as when I used the race gas and pump gas mix. As far as Ken's overheating issue, I wondered if there is an easy way he can determine if the head gaskets are installed correctly? It would at least rule out that possibility. I've seen those heating issues happen on a Windsor (not mine) with head gaskets improperly installed. Yes, the heating issues could definitely be the items barnett was looking into. Did I miss something, what carb is on that motor?
  17. I don't know what you use for octane booster. But in interim, until you make any changes to lower the compression ratio, you might try adding something like Torco Accelerator to your fuel. https://torcoracefuel.net/products/torco-accelerator It won't help the heating issue, but might reduce the detonation.
  18. I used dye on a vinyl top once. Purchased it from and automotive paint store and sprayed it on with a paint gun. It still looked good 4 years later when I sold the car. With a convertible top opening and closing I don't know if that will shorten the life of the dye. If that's the last resort before replacing it, might be worth a try.
  19. At high engine RPM the PCV will not flow much so crankcase vapors also get pushed out through the breather. That is normal operation on all cars since the advent of a PCV valve. That is why crankcase breather filters use to get replaced as a normal tune-up item. I have a pair of Scott Drake valve covers with a oil filler tube like shown in your picture. They are ready for the garbage can. They don't hold the filler cap on very well compared to twist on and the other type that push into a grommet. Connecting the breather cap to an air cleaner will only force crankcase vapors into the air cleaner at high RPM. Then back into the motor instead of simply into the atmosphere. It won't have any effect on how well the vented oil filler cap operates. If you originally had that other vented oil filler cap Scott Drake offers, take a close look at it, the vent holes are tiny and probably will not flow enough air for motors like yours.
  20. I'm jealous. I want another 1970 or 1971 Dodge Challenger. But, I'd have to sell my Mach 1 and just can't do that. In my opinion, the Challenger is a better driver, but Mach 1's look better, both interior and exterior. Anybody know why most (not all) Mopar people think their cars are valued like gold? I have no clue.
  21. For me, I've always been partial to Holley's products. Maybe because they have been around so long. For EFI, it will probably come down to each persons personal preference. From looking at EFI systems myself, all I can add is if you have an auto trans that uses a kick down rod attached to the carb like a C4, C6, or FMX, most EFI setups do not have provisions for that kick down rod. I have only seen the Holley Terminator system setup for Ford kick down rods.
  22. I wouldn't install a repair sleeve. I have seen many harmonic balancer repair sleeves leak. And yes they were installed with loc-tite between the repair sleeve and the balancer hub. I think it has something to do with the surface of the repair sleeve being extremely polished and slick. I think you are better off having your other crank machined and balanced. You or the machine shop should have a balance sheet so whoever does the balancing will know the bob weight to use. Also provide the harmonic balancer and the flywheel or flex plate when balancing the new crank. Machining a crank 0.020" undersize has typically been frowned upon. Not certain why, but try avoiding that route.
  23. I've heard don't connect the PCV and brake booster vacuum line to the same port ( or tee them together as well. I don't understand it either. For me, when using an aftermarket dual plane intake I don't like using the provided vacuum port on them because it pulls only from cylinder #4. In my opinion, they put that port in a bad location. The vacuum port at the carb base or spacer (if you have one) pulls from the entire motor.
  24. I have seen billet aluminum instrument bezels that look very much like OEM from JME enterprises. Might be pricey, just a thought. http://www.jmeenterprises.com/69dash.shtml
  25. From the picture the journal where the rear main seal rides looks too pitted to be usable. Consider using your other crank.
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