1969_Mach1
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Posts posted by 1969_Mach1
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32 minutes ago, lalojamesliz said:Do you think 4 cans is enough for the firewall, aprons, shocktowers and rear of the radiator support?
That's a tough call. I'd say it's not going to get you much more than one coat. Before committing to using that paint, maybe try it on another small part first to get an idea of how well it covers. Maybe do a little research before spraying it. Eastwood has paints in spray cans that are advertised as correct in color and sheen. I'd also look at SEM and see if they have something suitable. Innovative Repair And Refinishing Products | SEM Products
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Maybe I'm wrong, but my thoughts are, unless you are going down to bare metal, I'd use something like mineral spirits instead of lacquer thinner for the initial clean to remove the large amounts of grease. Then thorough cleaning with a strong soap and hot water. The lacquer thinner will soften whatever paint or primer remains. After completely dry use a Grease and Wax remover. After all that, sanding or scuffing, address any surface rust, then clean clean again with grease and wax remover. Some will try acetone instead of grease and wax remover, but, that can also soften any existing paint.
Duplicolor spray cans have a nice spray pattern for a can. But, you will need a lot of cans. Each coat is extremely light and doesn't cover very well. I use to use Duplicolor because it's available everywhere. Now Duplicolor is my very last option for spray can paints. If you are going the single stage spray can route, which is fine, I'd first look to see what SEM offers.
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That shouldn't be a problem. When I rebuilt mine I ended needing new gears, etc. like you went through. At times on the bench it looked like a brass blocker ring might stick to a gear. But, it works fine. When doing your final checks on the bench all I can add is make certain everything is well lubricated with a GL4 rated gear oil (not GL5 or GL4 and GL5 rated). I also used a trans assembly lube for assembly as it has a low melting point and mixes with the oil. Greases for assembly will never melt and mix in. So with greases any metal shavings from a fresh rebuilt (which will happen) will stick to the grease and won't drain out with the oil.
Be certain to change the oil frequently to get any metal particles out. They say 500 miles, I've changed mine twice in about 100 miles. So far okay.
Initially I had a trans shop rebuild mine, they used grease for assembly and didn't inform me to change the oil soon after use. After a few hundred miles metal particles from the rebuild ruined the rear bearing and the inside of the case was completely coated with grease and embedded metal particles.
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Number of tube rows and cooling capacity is debatable. You'll notice the higher end aluminum radiators typically have two rows of 1" or 1-1/4" wide tubes. The lower cost radiators typically have 3 or more rows of smaller width tubes.
US Radiator has some information on different core types. Cores | US Radiator
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1 hour ago, Her69fastback said:Griffin’s are $800.00 for a 24 inch for the car.
Yeah, in today's market I'd go with something less expensive. Like I mentioned, when I needed one, Griffin was the only mfg. offering a direct fit aluminum radiator. Plus, the cost was much less back then.
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Keep in mind, switching to electric fans often leads to upgrading the charging system and associated wiring.
In my Mach 1, 351W car I use Griffin 24" wide radiator, it has 2 rows of 1-1/4" wide tubes. OEM fan shroud and an OEM 6 blade 17" clutch fan setup. Seems fine, runs about 170-175 degrees with a 160 degree Stewart high flow thermostat. Griffin is expensive, but, when I needed one many years ago they were the only mfg. offering a direct fit aluminum radiator. Today I would look for something less expensive.
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1 hour ago, rittenrotton said:Thank you everyone for your help! I;m going to reach out to aaw and see what they say
My 2 cents. Wiring like your initial diagram, I think is the best for that type of starter. (1) It will eliminate any potential for the disengagement issues. (2) The original Ford starter relay and not the ignition switch will carry the current to energize the solenoid attached to the top of the starter.
An old school trick GM people would do before all these high torque PMGR starters was to add a Ford starter relay and wire the starter just like your original diagram. The Ford relay can more easily carry the current to energize the starter solenoid than the ignition switch and wiring from the switch.
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If Holley doesn't offer a Tach adapter, MSD offers two different styles. I don't recall the part number, but the more expensive version is what is needed to work with current triggered tachs. Since the adapter connects to the Tach output terminal of an MSD ignition box, it might work with your Holley setup.
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18 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:Wait a minute...is this one of those permanent magnet gear motors PMGR? If so this is a well documented problem.
A PMGR should be connected as shown in the first post and picture.
The terminal at 1 o'clock is the battery terminal, 5 o'clock is the motor terminal, and 8 o'clock is the "signal actuator". If both the long red wire and the yellow wires connect to the right terminal of the old starter solenoid- as I believe Dave (det0326) suggested, then when the starter is turned off it will start generating and feed back into its solenoid and stay on for maybe 15 seconds or so.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I believe you are correct. I've purchased starters of that style and the instructions indicate there will be problems with it disengaging unless it's wired like the diagram in the initial post. With that said, Powermaster does offer another style PMGR starter that can be wired like Midlife has mentioned. I have one on my Mach 1 and it will work wired either like the original diagram posted or like Midlife mentioned.
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I'd hang on to the press. You can do more with it than you think, and not just axle bearings. If you rebuild your own differential, it's needed, manual trans, it's needed, a simple distributor gear change or removal and installation, it's needed. Need to dimple a piece of thin wall tubing or thin sheet metal, the press can do it with a little creative setup. It will also straighten or bend thick steel pieces. Need to modify an air cleaner base so it drops down a little more, you can do that with the hydraulic press. Want to change out some rubber suspension bushings, the press is needed or at least makes the job much easier. So there are many uses for it, not just axle bearings.
lalojamesliz and RPM reacted to this -
You might need to get away from a stock style starter and move to a permanent magnet gear reduction starter. They're smaller in size so are less prone to heat soak from close proximity to headers. Powermaster usually offers several options.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
On 7/2/2021 at 10:59 AM, RPM said:Hmm... how often do buyouts end well? I mean for anyone that didn't get a big check.
Yeah, it doesn't sound good. I think I'd look for something else if I were in the market for cylinder heads.
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3 hours ago, lalojamesliz said:I bought a scott drake export brace for my 69 and I've seen some stories of people having to use screw drivers to align the holes but my shock tower holes are no where near where I need them.
These bottom plates need to be re drilled or removed and repositioned. Is that a common problem?
The export brace kinda lines up wit the holes on the shock towers but it's the bottom plates causing the problem.
My mustang has been hit on the passenger side front end but the driver side has the same issue so it can't be that.
Am I correct, the top of the shock towers need to move outward a little? If so, I had that issue on my 69 Mach 1, but, it was a completed car. What I did was loosen all the top fender bolts except the front and rear bolt. Then with two floor jacks and blocks of wood lift the front of the car a little where the lower control arms attach to the front subframe. This will move the top of the shock towers outward and everything easily lines up.
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I installed Moser Engineering axles in my 1969 Mach 1. I like them, no issues. However, make certain you get axles with the access hole for the retainer plate nuts otherwise it's more difficult to install and remove them. Also, just my preference, but I don't like the C-shape retainer plates aftermarket axles come with. They are made of a thick material, but the stock style seem better.
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30 minutes ago, rwcstang said:looks like an aftermarket booster. I would suggest finding a Midland or Bendix booster. I had both and they cleared my 351w with no issue.
That would be my first option as well. If there is no success finding an OEM booster, maybe a different set of valve covers. The Ford Racing valve covers are fairly large.
Also, think about later down the road if the booster or master cylinder needs to be removed when putting together the combination of parts.
Getting to the spark plugs will probably be fun with those tall valve covers. I had Ford Racing tall valve covers on my 351W. Everything fit okay but I got tired of the struggle to get to some of the spark plugs. I switched to short valve covers. They clear the roller rockers and spark plugs are much easier to reach.
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Have you removed the hold down clamp and looked closely at the dist. housing where the clamp contacts? There might be some kind of indentation in the housing from the clamp which is why tightening the nut moves the timing. Also, like aslanefe mentioned, 6 deg. BTDC base timing is usually not enough for small block Ford's. Most start at 10 deg. BTDC as long as that doesn't created too much total timing, then adjust from there as needed.
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Glad you got those removed. In the end, those were the wrong clips for that application. For that application, I've always seem internal snap rings with an eye (small hole) at each end for use of snap ring pliers.
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On my 1969 Mach1, 351W I use the Weiand 8023 with a 1/2" tall phenolic carburetor spacer. With stock motor mounts, an aluminum Moroso drop base air cleaner with 3" tall filter has almost 1/2" clearance to the stock hood (no shaker). I did trim the air cleaner base slightly, about 1/8", to drop it a little more. Without the carb spacer it would fit much better. So far, the air cleaner hasn't yet touched the hood. The shape of the air cleaner top makes a significant difference for hood clearance. A stock air cleaner or the K&N style of air cleaner top type might not fit.
Another think to keep in mind, some drop base air cleaners do not clear electric choke assemblies.
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I installed the 5-leaf mid-eye rear leaf springs from Mustangs Plus a long time ago (about 1996) and haven't had any issues with them. The car is rarely driven, but they have been fine. If you want stock ride height springs I think you will be shocked on how high the ride height is regardless of who makes them. Many have a first thought there is something wrong with the spring, but these cars had a fairly tall ride height in stock form.
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Those valve covers are worth a fair amount of money. The originals are sought after for anybody with a Y-block motor. And they are rare and extremely hard to get these days.
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When I did the conversion on my 1969 Mach 1 a long time ago, I kind of "eyeballed" it using the clutch rod then noticed a dimple in the firewall where is looked like the rod should pass through. Maybe I got lucky, drilled the hole to fit the rubber boot using the dimple for the center and it worked.
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In 1969 the Ford shifter was being used. In 1970 Ford used a Hurst Competition Plus shifter.
However, it sounds like somebody installed the wrong Hurst shifter in your car. I installed a Hurst Competition Plus shifter in my 1969 Mach1 and it fits just fine, no odd interference anywhere.
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I'm looking at mechanical fuel pumps for a 390 in another project of mine. The specs for stock pumps give a minimum flow rate of 25 GPH at 500 engine RPM. Aftermarket performance pumps like Edelbrock or Holley only give a maximum flow rate spec.
Before spending $160 and up for an aftermarket pump I have some questions.
1) Motor is mild and will make roughly 400 hp. I know 25 GPH is too low for that, but that is an idle spec for the stock pump. Will the stock pump flow much more at higher engine RPM?
2) Is there a stock pump that flows more than 25 gph? If so what is the application?
Thanks
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On 4/7/2021 at 2:01 PM, gcc6 said:I was trying to mimic the colors of the 1969 Boss 302; Grabber Orange with black contrasts.
After I rebuilt the Toploader, I still had instances where the 1-2 shifts would occasionally grind. I found out that the lube I used, which was the most commonly available GL-5 spec, should not be used in these old transmissions as their additives are not compatible with the synchronizer material. So I did drain it shortly after the rebuild to fill with a lube specifically designed for the old style sychroniers. I had read that Redline MTL worked very well, but I ended up using a Valvoline lube designed for old manual transmission. It's worked well in that I have not ground the syncrhonizers once since the change.
I am having a problem with leaks though; it seems to be leaking from everywhere. I replaced the O-rings in the shafts of the "cams" in the side of the case and all the other seals ad gaskets that came with the rebuild kit. But the cam shafts are leaking, and it looks like the front where the counter shaft is pressed through is leaking as well. I was wondering if it was necessary to apply some kind of sealer to the ends of the shafts that are pressed through the case holes.
In my experience Valvoline oils tend to leak more than most others. Try a different oil. I've had good luck with basic Sta-Lube GL4 rated gear oil. I just replaced it again this last weekend and refilled with Pen Grade GL4 rated gear oil. I'll see how that works after driving it a bit.
If the trans is out of the car, I'd also vent the trans through the original top plate. It seems to be a more direct path for venting the trans than through the rear bearing then the vent installed in the tail shaft. When the top plate gasket is installed correctly the vent hole in it is no where near the vent hole in the top plate.
Shock tower notching question
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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It says in the description at Gateway Mustang that the stock mounting points for the upper control arm are removed and the kit works with only their suspension. Since the control arm drop you are considering is only 1", my thought is the Gateway Mustang kit will not work.
When they were modifying 1969 Mustangs for the Boss 429, the shock towers were notched for needed clearance. But, they also modified (shortened) the upper control arms.