69gmachine

You will be fine with the 1" bore MC. You will be able to apply more force at the caliper with the same pedal effort, or put another way, it will take less pedal effort to lock up the brakes. But the difference is well withiin the acceptable range for the pedal ratio. I started with a 1 1/16 bore MC and switched to a 15/16 bore. I could stand on the brakes and not lock them up with the 1 1/16 MC. The 15/16 MC is perfect. I would not recommend the large 1 1/8" bore MC.

Yes, Buening you are correct, I got confused about which direction he needed to move.

The first thing i would recommend is to remove the plates, push the lower arm out until the desired camber is achieved, then find the holes that best line up with that hole in the bracket. You should be able to get very close with that. If there's truly something off then you might have to use a shim behind the uper arm, but that's a last resort.

Sorry RPM, I should have posted something here directing you to the parts for sale section. The only things that have sold are the fold down and the rear valance. I would rather sell stuff here than ebay, so if there's something you're interested in let me know. Thanks!

Wonderful, thanks!

I would like to establish a few ground rules: Bids should be in even $10 increments. If an offer is made that is less than $300, you must put up at least $20 to outbid the previous offer. If the offer is at least $300 but less than $400, the minimum raise is $30. If the offer is at least $400 but less than $500, the minimum raise is $40 and so on. Anything that hasn't sold by Aug 2 will be put up on ebay. I haven't had time to set fair market value minimums for everything, but I will. I'm not going to sell something at a greatly reduced price just to make a sale as I feel that amounts to kicking someone while they're down. First up is the dash. I will put some evaporust on it to clean it up, but I don't want to immerse it as it might cause damage, so the pics show the worst case wrt appearance. Next is the NOS front valance. It has the red oxide primer from Ford indicating an early production replacement part. Later Ford sheetmetal replacement parts were black. Next is the rear NOS valance. It is a later production piece, but still NOS Ford replacement part. I am opening the bidding on the rear valance at $500, so you will have to put up at least $550 to outbid me. Last are the fold down pieces. There are only 2 of them and the seat back is common to every fastback. The only difference is the chrome trim which needs to either be re-chromed or replaced.

A woman I know lost her job a few months ago. As a result she had to sell her '69 convertible and has also lost her internet and phone connections. She has a few 69 Mustang parts that I'm going to list here, and then on e-bay. This is a charity sale/auction. I'm trying to get as much money as I can so she can buy groceries. I'll take some pictures soon and list them in the parts for sale section. She has NOS front and rear valances, an original Ford dash (it has rust on the metal uderstructure but has never been installed) and there are 2 pieces of a fold down with trim; the seat back (with black mach 1 upholstery) and the floor piece that goes at the back under the trap door. The chrome trim has some pitting but would re-chrome nicely. I'm planning to buy the rear valance for $500, but if someone is willing to offer more I will sell it to the highest bidder. Thanks!

The easiest way to center the rear is to re-drill the holes in the bottom of the spring perches. The factory tolerance for centering the rear seems to be approx +/- 1/2". When these cars were new they had skinny little tires in fairly large wheel wells, so a half inch either way was no problem. When we try to fit big modern tires in there, we find out just how much slop there was on the production line. This probably also explains why some members claim it's impossible to fit a TKO 600 without raising the tunnel, even though lots of us have managed to do exactly that without any issues.

Regardless of which timing cover you have, the seal must face the same way. The channel faces toward the engine. Later timing covers do not have a lip so the seal can be installed from the front without removing the timing cover, but the seal always faces the same way.

I would replace the rubber grommet, it's probably hard and dried out. It should slide in from the top. Although it has an interference fit, it should go in by hand.

Pic 2 is the oil slinger. It goes on the crankshaft just in front of the timing gear. Many timing sets (especially double roller) say not to use it. Ford stopped using them around '70. A better way to get oil on the chain is to drill a .020 hole in one of the oil galley plugs.

I'm still using the plastic bushing. When I convered to power brakes I had the same problem. Changing to the correct switch solved the problem for me.

If the harmonic balancer is from a 73, it should have a 4 bolt pulley and will not line up with the other pulleys on a 67 - 69 small block. You would need the '70 up water pump that has the inlet on the driver's side and the '70 up water pump pulley, alternator and PS brackets. The alternator belt is in front of the PS belt on the 70 up whereas it is behind the PS belt on the 67 - 69. The '70 up 4 bolt balancer has a different offset than the '65 - 69 3 bolt balancers so it would be difficult to mix and match parts. Using the rocker arms to determine the compression stroke is fine, but you cannot determine TDC by them. There are too many variables in the cam timing events to use this for TDC. If you are off by a few degrees the timing marks will not line up.

OK, if the marks were off the same amount before and after replacement, then yes it could be that the outer ring has moved. However, if the outer ring is moving then it will have a vibration problem as RPM increases because the offset weight is also moving. How are you determining TDC with the heads on? Is it possible you aren't getting an accurate measure of TDC?

It does sound like a vacuum leak, but the PCV just uses manifold vacuum, it doesn't matter if it's in the base of the carb, a spacer under the carb or directly into the intake manifold. I have mine going directly into the manifold.

I have a 6 fuse block under the console aft of the shifter. The only precaution to be aware of is that any wires need to have plenty of clearance from the shifter while installing the console.

You say it was running fine, but that was before you replaced the distributor, right? It sounds like you installed the distributor 180 out, meaning instead of being on the compression stroke, you were on the exhaust stroke. I would re-check the position of the rotor after verifying it is on the compression stroke.

If it's easier for you to pick up power from the S terminal, then go ahead and do that. When the key is turned to START, current travels through the ignition wire (red w/ blue stripe) that goes to the S terminal of the solenoid. When the solenoid is energized, the plunger inside makes contact with the lug that goes to the starter and the I terminal on the solenoid. So it doesn't really matter if you decide to attach the white wire to the S terminal or the I terminal. Either way, it will only have power while the key is in the START position. I just felt it was a cleaner installation to use the I terminal because I had already used the other end of the brown wire as a means to supply a constant 12V to the coil, so the end that attached to the I terminal just dead ended in the under dash harness and served no purpose. If you traced the brown wire (262 IIRC in the '69 wiring diagram) from the I terminal it goes through the headlight harness into the firewall at the main bulkhead connector, then through the under dash harness and back out the firewall where the engine guage feed harness connects. At this connection, you will see that the brown wire merges with the ignition lead (pink resistor wire). On the mating side of this connector there is a single ignition lead to the coil (red w/green stripe). When the key is in run, the only source of power to the coil is through the pink resistor wire, but when the key is in start, there is a parallel path of 12V from the solenoid. Since the brown wire mates directly to the ignition lead, it is an ideal path to provide 12V to an electronic ignition. Of course it will require that you cut it somewhere in the harness and pick up switched power from somewhere. The easiest place to splice into it is in the under dash harness near the key. It would probably be helpful if you had a wiring diagram.

where does the control for the passenger side mirror mount?

Converting the XR7 harness took several months, and it still doesn't fit well. I'll never try that again! Would you be willing to make modifications if I supplied the wiring diagram including the lengths? I would like to use the OEM type flat connctors to make it appear period correct at least under the hood. I've already converted my tach, so there's no way getting around making modificaitons.

Somehow I ended up with 2 threads on this same topic. Is it possible one of the moderators can consolidate the replies into a single thread? Thanks!

Jim, The difference is the amount of travel required to make the switch close. Since the pivot point is much higher on the power brake pedal, it requires more travel than the manual pedal. Hang in there!

Well I agree that new is the way to go, I just haven't decided if I go with a new reproduction or a whole new design and look. One major advantage of the reproduction is ease of installation. Most everything will simply plug and play. The downside is cost. At $750 for just the underdash harness, it's a tough pill to swallow, especially since I'm going to end up cutting into it to add at least 3 additional circuits. When I did a search I found several members have decided on the AAW kit, but I couldn't find any mention of someone who's actually driving their car with it. Too bad someone doesn't make a more original appearing harness with a few extra circuits. I also like the small extension with a disconnect at the gauge cluster that the AAW kit has.

The white wire is for the "retard on start" feature, which dials the timing back about 12 to 15 degrees. In the Mustang Steve diagram its source is the start (S) terminal on the solenoid. Alternatively, you can use the (I) terminal on the solenoid as it will also only have voltage when the start circuit is energized but it makes for a cleaner installation IMO. You will need a constant 12V supply to the coil anyway for the Duraspark ignition. Originally this circuit provided 12V just during engine crank as it would lead to premature points failure if there were a constant 12V supply. I cut the brown wire about 18" down in the headlight harness and ran it to the white wire on the Duraspark box which I hid behind the battery apron. This gives the appearance that the factory wiring hasn't been altered. Then at the other end, I ran a 12V supply into the brown wire just before it heads out the firewall.