KevinK

Wow, lots of problems. I lost track if you made any progress. Like many said, try to deal with one problem at a time. I would also suggest contacting a local Mustang Club for possible resources. BAMA meets the 1st Tuesday of the month in Castro Valley. I know we have some guys with personal experience and local shop experience. It sounds like much of it started with the trans issue. While that seems like a huge thing to fix, there should be plenty of local places and experts.

None of the floors have the correct ribs for the 69/70 but the repros will fit.

Update: $90.

69 Steering wheel pad. Used but nice condition.. I believe its for a rim blow steering wheel. $100 OBO

Per MCA Concours Judge, the shaker fins were factory painted with a rubber roller.

They make a 1 wire unit now with the 1G original type housing. Not sure about chrome.

They make a 1 wire unit now with the 1G original type housing. Not sure about chrome.

I reglued my windows many years ago. I believe I used JB Weld. I also sanded the glass in the contact area so the glue had something to stick to. Most of the time it is a clean seperation of the glass and the glue. No need to remove 100% of the glue unless it's comming loose. I seem to recall there being 2 types of adhesive filling the void. The one bonding with the glass seems to fail. I used a cut-off wheel to open up the glue area to give just enough space for new glue. The bulk of the glue has been there 45 years and shows no sign of coming loose so I left it in place. New adhesives should make it easier. BTW, the adhesive in the caulking tube ages fast so don't have it sitting around.

I reglued my windows many years ago. I believe I used JB Weld. I also sanded the glass in the contact area so the glue had something to stick to. Most of the time it is a clean seperation of the glass and the glue. No need to remove 100% of the glue unless it's comming loose. I seem to recall there being 2 types of adhesive filling the void. The one bonding with the glass seems to fail. I used a cut-off wheel to open up the glue area to give just enough space for new glue. The bulk of the glue has been there 45 years and shows no sign of coming loose so I left it in place. New adhesives should make it easier. BTW, the adhesive in the caulking tube ages fast so don't have it sitting around.

Have you tried Holley? The rebuild any brand carb.

Have you tried Holley? The rebuild any brand carb.

I will be there. No sign of my badge yet. Mailed mid-Sept.

Yes, I was referring to the B pillar area. I guess you would also cover the interior quarter panel. It is nomally covered with a metal panel but just not sealed. Yes, anything is an improvement. I favor the "not so noticeable" modifications. I was suggesting a fuel cell which looks like a regular tank from below.

The 2G is not so desireable due to the plastic plug corroding and catching on fire. This is why everyone goes to the 3G with the internal regulator. Some have fitment and clocking issues which are easily overcome with the right model selection. They are now remanufacturing the 1G with the internal regulator making it a 1 wire hook up. Another option, You can also rebuild the 1G with the old wiring to 100 amp output but you still need to upgrade the main wire to the battery.

I was told by a long time MCA judge they were painted with a roller. Sounds much easier.