barnett468

Here is one of the photos i posted before. Look carefully at the bottom image as it might be hard to see what it is depicting. If one has driveshaft angles like this, i will definitely cause a vibration. This is the last example in my post above that I was trying to explain. The driveshaft must always be downhill more than the trans AND uphill more than the diff, or vise versa.
 
 

Based on your photo, there is a .25 difference in angle between the trans and the pinion. If it were me, since your diff links are adjustable, I would just start trying different pinion angles, starting with rotating the pinion up .20 degrees. If there is no noticeable change try 1 degree up from that new position (3.95) and if that doesn't help maybe even try 1.2 degrees down from the current position (1.75), which should make it worse.
 
 

"Cooper Cobras aren't nearly as popular but a safer bet these days."
They are also much cheaper then T/A's and probably work better. I know for a fact that they squeal far less then the T/A's did after Goodrich changed their formula. for the worst.
 
"Now that I've said that I better duck the incoming."
What "incoming" is going to be coming in that you need to duck?
 
.
.
 

Your driveshaft goes uphill 2.85 degrees from the trans?
What is the angle from the pinion to the driveshaft?
Ideally, the amount of driveshaft angle at the trans and pinion should be exactly the same but in opposite directions. For typical street use, anywhere from 1 1/2 to 3 degrees seems to be fine in my experience. The higher the speed, the straighter the shaft should be providing it is never exactly parallell to the trans and pinion for a prolonged period because the u joints will not "rotate" in this position which can cause premature u joint wear.
One of the major issues with setting up the driveshaft angle, is that on a leaf spring suspension that does not have a torque bar like a old SS Camaro has, the springs will flex (develop a slight S shaped bow) under load, which allows the pinion to rise.  The greater the load, the higher the pinion will rise, which of course changes its angle relative to the driveshaft. This means that the angle of the shaft will change the harder one accelerates and the faster one goes. The pinion can rise several degrees in some cases, but I typically allow for around 1 - 1 1/2 degrees in rise at freeway speed on standard leaf spring type applications. Some others do it differently but this is the method that has worked for me.
 
 
 
 
 
 
.
 
 
 

that link didn't work but it is plain old j b weld on the edge that butts up against the body then fill in the low side behind it with plain old bondo . done it countless times even on and high end show cars. bear in mind that the end caps and front fender extensions (headlight housings) can flex a little when tightened which can sometimes cause almost any type of filler to crack.
 
 

Yeah but I doubt they are happy that you put their steering wheels on the "wrong" side.
 

Tinted glass was supposed to be mandatory on all a/c cars, but i would email kevin and ask him if he has ever heard of such a thing as clear glass on an a/c car.
 

Good point and I meant that i had to  tighten the f out of them even when using the washer. I didn't do that without the washer.

I am not a cam scientist but I know a reasonable amount, plus I have built many engines and done cam swaps, so I know what the cams did in those engines. You can also do a google search for cam info but you will find some info that appears to be conflicting. I have not found a site that explains cams well in simple terms and the problem is that if you change one aspect of a cam, it automatically changes another to some degree which complicates explaining them. 
In addition to the differencs I already mentioned, a short explanation that is relevant to your situation is that the advertised duration is the total time the cam keeps the valves open. The longer they are open the less compression the engine will have. In general, the longer the advertised duration and duration @ .50" lift is, the higher the overall operating range of the engine. For example, your cam with durations of 316 advertised and 244 @ .050" might have an operating range of 3500 to 6500 in a 454 cube engine and a cam with less durations like 290 advertised and 232 @ .050" might have an operating range of 3000 to 6000 rpm in the same size engine.
The farther apart the intake and exhaust lobe peaks are, which is referred to as LSA (lobe separation angle), the wider the powerband will be and the "softer" it will be, and the higher the engine will rev.
The greater the lift is, the more power it will produce up to a certain point, but this does not mean that one should use a cam that has .650" of lift in every engine. There is such a thing as too much lift for a persons intended use of the vehicle and/or for the particular heads they are using etc.
I frequently use cams with around .600" lift in 347 strokers. Your cam has around .040" less than that yet it has around 100 more cubes.
In your case, based on what it sounds to me like you want, more lift would give you more power/torque per se. Less advertised duration will increase the compression which will increase the torque and improve throttle response. Less duration @ .050" will lower the overall operating range. A wider LSA will give you a wider and softer power band but the softness will be countered some with the shorter advertised duration and increased lift.
Also, lowering the overall operating range of the engine will also make the existing diff gear ratio more useful, but as I mentioned, you may still want numerically higher gears even if you do install a different cam.

speak for yourself- I have turkeys....and sadly YOU turkeys

happy thanksgiving as well, and it  well looks like none of us here have much of a life, lol.
 
 

Turkeys will kill a snake too

I bought a bottle of Wild Turkey yesterday if that counts.

Same here. We have a group of 11 wild turkeys that visit our front yard every few days. We saw them again this morning and strangely none were missing. They chased a cat out of the bushes in front. A couple of days ago they surrounded a car parked on the street and had the cat trapped underneath.

Here is a Happy Thanksgiving wish to everyone here.

Just the way you have it facing so it sticks outward.

Yes,  R =retard, A = advance.

i've been on the ozzie forum too much, lol.
 
 

Once again...the screws I mentioned look like the originals. They may also be the same screws that npd is selling but I for one do not know if they are.

All you need to do is buy the next size larger screw. WURTH sells them. I have done this over 100 times. Bear in mind that they sell them with two different size head choices.
 

Yes good point on the trans, however,  It will be fine as long as you dont  dump the clutch or speed shift it 

Well, the engine itself will loose less torque if you install numerically higher gears because it will not be working as hard to move the vehicle, but I don't think you are asking the right question. It is much better if you simply post in detail what you have and what you are wanting to achieve etc.
3.89 gears will make 1st gear in that trans nearly useless, so under normal driving conditions you will be shifting from 1st into 2nd at around 10 mph, lol.
 

Once again...the screws I mentioned look like the originals. They may also be the same screws that npd is selling but I for one do not know if they are.