barnett468

Because the timing advance curve needs to be set for each particular engine. A rebuilt box stock distributor from the parts store or even a used one could be considered "ready to run" just like the $400.00 ones claim to be because your engine will run if you simply install them and set the initial timing, but they will likely not run nearly as well as they could.
I'll tell you what, I have a brand new polished billet aluminum distributor that is "ready to run" that I would probably sell for $160.00. I also have a polished aluminum water pump if you want one. We had the biggest Mustang shop on the West coast and I have a 53' trailer filled with new and used parts.
 

It can be arranged...*G*

The windshield should be removed to properly install the headliner. I only use carlite glass. You can get it tinted and shaded. TMI makes the best headliners and interiors these days. The sail panels are crap. I usually remove the vinyl then put several slices part way thru the cardboard on the backside running front to back then spray water on the back then bend them so they curve properly then support them on the top and bottom then put a weight in the midline towards the front to maintain the curve then let them sit for a few hours then check the curve to make sure it is correct and if it is i then reglue the vinyl and install them. Doesn't this sound like fun?

The windshield should be removed to properly install the headliner. I only use carlite glass. You can get it tinted and shaded. TMI makes the best headliners and interiors these days. The sail panels are crap. I usually remove the vinyl then put several slices part way thru the cardboard on the backside running front to back then spray water on the back then bend them so they curve properly then support them on the top and bottom then put a weight in the midline towards the front to maintain the curve then let them sit for a few hours then check the curve to make sure it is correct and if it is i then reglue the vinyl and install them. Doesn't this sound like fun?

So when do preorders begin?

I always wanted to add motorized side view mirrors to our cars. Well in my case my 1970 Mach 1 project car. I have seen posts where folks have adapted 2015 Mustang side view mirrors to a 1969 Mustang, but I wanted to have a more original look.

Well with some research, a few parts from a (non-Ford) donor car and some fabrication and experimentation, I made it work. As an added bonus, I incorporated sequential LED directional lights to the package. I made very little mods to the original mirror. Obviously a hole thru the inside of the pedestal and the housing where the two meet for the wires. Also needed to fashion a custom mount bracket inside to mount the motor and mirror. Check out the video attachment file at the bottom of the passenger side it in operation.....

Motorized Side View Mirrrors.mp4

Pleeeease do not keep trying to start it if it does not have a roller cam, as it can kill the cam if it hasn't already.
We can help guide you thru the initial start up process so it hopefully goes easy.
What oil and/or additives are you using for break in?
You do NOT need to start it to set the timing, and that is the worst way to do an initial start. If you set the timing the way it is described in Mach 1 Driver's post above, it will be close enough to get it started and for it to continue running.
Engines sometimes need some choke for initial start up and can die just like yours is without it.
 
 
 
 
 
 
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1. Yeah the paint won't have a huge affect but it is just as easy to buy the "right" paint and spray it on if one is painting it anyway.
2. The heat in most of Texas is nothin compared to Phoenix Arizona in the summer.
3. A 147 t stat is pointless in a street car and will usually always be open unless you have a 20 gallon rad, plus even if you got an engine to run at 147 degrees it will do far more harm than good due to premature engine wear, plus the oil will likely not get hot enough to cause any water in it to evaporate.
4. I know because I have been making engines run cool in hot weather as part of my business for over 40 years and I posted several of the differences previously.
5. Flex fans are not used anymore by any knowledgeable people I know, and they are not always a good choice since the blades flatten out at higher revs, thus greatly reducing the amount of air they can flow at higher engine rpms. Plus, the blades have been known to fly off and cut rad hoses or go thru hoods etc.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I would clean all around the fitting with a brass or steel wire brush and determine exactly what is leaking first.

I use this one
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hrs-220051-12
Driving in France - small roads and Highway : nice idle around 850 rpm and power up to 6000 rpm. Very street-able 

The needle does not tell what the actual temp is. Only an infra red gun or gauge with an actual readout in farenheit or celcius will. A non original temp sender will typically position the needle in a different location than a properly working orig sender will when the engine is at the same operating temp, therefore, if the needle reads lower or higher with the aftermarket sender, it does not mean the actual engine temp is lower or higher, so it can be confusing as to whether the engine really is running hotter or cooler etc.
A gauge with a numerical read out is the best way to determine engine temp.

I am not sure what you are after, however, if you want Mach 1 wood grain dash and glove box pieces, I have a few. I also have a new wood grain radio bezel and the stainless door trim for the deluxe interiors and many other parts. I am also a scott drake dealer and might be able to save you some money on some parts if you want.
 
 

That's a good plan to start with. I used graphite spray for this purpose when I ran the cylinder shop for an engine machining company.
 

Lapping them will tell you if everything is correct or not with the seats and valve face. I always lap them but you do not need to blue them and this can actually inerfere with the lapping process.
Also, not all cylinder head machinists do the same level of quality, therefore, it is entirely possible that if you have them redone, they might not be as good as the are now, and if this occurs, you would have paid to have a lesser quality job done on them.
 

Unfortunately, steering boxes can not be fully rebuilt, and typically are never as good as new when they are "rebuilt", because the worm gears wear and are not available, and when they wear, the steering will still have play, but some people try to reduce this play by over tightening the adjustment. This being said, a steering box that has play in the bearings will have less play after they are replaced.
If one wants to properly rebuild a steering box that has worn gears, they can send the gears out to have then welded and refaced, however, this is a fairly expensive operation, but it shouldn't need to be done again until long after most of us are dead and buried.
 
 
 

Unfortunately, steering boxes can not be fully rebuilt, and typically are never as good as new when they are "rebuilt", because the worm gears wear and are not available, and when they wear, the steering will still have play, but some people try to reduce this play by over tightening the adjustment. This being said, a steering box that has play in the bearings will have less play after they are replaced.
If one wants to properly rebuild a steering box that has worn gears, they can send the gears out to have then welded and refaced, however, this is a fairly expensive operation, but it shouldn't need to be done again until long after most of us are dead and buried.
 
 
 

ok, this is quite simple.
ecklers says they must be balanced using the lugs, NOT the center of the wheel.
https://www.ecklers.com/corvette/corvette-vintage-wheel-works-v45-17x9-2-piece-wheel-1968-1982-25-348169-1.html
This "should" be easy to confirm by simply calling vintage wheel works and asking their tech department at (714) 278-1600
If they do need to be balanced by the lugs, you can have the wheels mounted by the lugs then have them checked for balance. If they are just a little bit out of balance, look at the edge of the rim (not the tire) while the wheel is spinning and see if it is true or not. If the wheel is true, have the tires removed and spin up the wheels only. This will tell you for certain exactly how much the wheels are out of balance and how much the tires are out of balance. If the wheels are out of balance by very much or untrue, simply call VWW and tell them and see what they say.
 
 

unfortunately it's not quite that simple, but if you have crappy shoes in the front, or ones that are for road racing etc, then yes, pads with higher initial grip when cold will help.
if it takes an unusual amount of force to lock the brakes in general with the power booster, then you need a smaller master or a higher power booster as well.
also, i'm not positive how the gm prop valve system works works and this may be contributing to the problem. i would have used a 69 or 70 ford prop valve setup.
 
 
 

all pumps have to be rubber mounted or they will be noisy. summit racing has some pumps that are advertised as being quiet. but i don't have the info in this computer. it is in my other one that died.
 

Or as we call it in June, July and August...Hell. But on the positive side, no humidity or insects.

...or if you live in bakersfield or phoenix or vegas.
 

1. i talked to arias this morning but they may not have records if you got the pistons a while ago.
2. well, 9 to 1 is a bit low with that cam but you still likely need headers or a smaller cam.
3. The pinging problem would go away but it would still run hot, since it ran hot previously.
4. How do you know that if you never had a numerical gauge on it?
5. Hopefully they will help at least some.
6. No prob, and crate engines are sometimes not great quality, and reputable builders are often the best way to go, but if I was building someones engine and they handed me domed pistons, I would calculate the compression before assembling it and let the customer know if it would run on pump gas or not.
 
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ok great.
the piston "volume" is the size of the dish or dome including the valve reliefs.
if the fans came from champion they are the lower end of air flow per size/diameter and i for one wouldn't use them even if they gave them to me. spal is one of the best fan mfgs and they have many to choose from. stock USED original ford fans from a v6 contour, or taurus, or lincoln are also some of the best.
based on your reply, it doesn't sound like your compression is excessively high. if it was, it would ping most of the time when accelerating even with octane booster, unless you happen to also be using 95 or higher octane gas.
 
if you have .041" thick gaskets, you could go to .060" thick ones but i would use thick intake gaskets. you may also have to slot the holes on the intake slightly. increasing the gasket thickness by .020" will lower your compression by around .5 but this should not be done on heads that have a quench pad.
 
did they zero deck the block?
do your pistons have a raised dome?
how did you set the timing curve and the vacuum advance if you use one?
when it gets hot does it get hot in traffic or on the highway or both?
if you have a numerical temp gauge, how hot does it get?
champion makes a few different rads, so how many rows deep and how wide is it and is it a cross flow?
your bore is .040 over?
what cam do you have?
do you have headers?
where is your float level set at?  if the float level is high, it will cause stalling at idle when hot and sometimes erratic idle or stalling after stopping moderately quickly.
 

Well I finished my rebuild and ran it today for the first time. 
I ended up installing a new correct flex plate which is a different bolt spacing to the original and the torque converter wouldn't fit. As this is the correct flex plate I bought a new torque converter which is substantially larger and 2500rpm stall. Engine was rebuild +.020 with 2V heads (were 4V) and some other bibs and bobs. Spent way more than I wanted to.
……………….It runs like a top. No vibration and more power. I also installed an electric fuel pump and my starting problems are gone.
Definitely a worthwhile venture. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I wish I could pinpoint exactly what was the cause of the vibration but very happy it's gone.

Here is one of the photos i posted before. Look carefully at the bottom image as it might be hard to see what it is depicting. If one has driveshaft angles like this, i will definitely cause a vibration. This is the last example in my post above that I was trying to explain. The driveshaft must always be downhill more than the trans AND uphill more than the diff, or vise versa.