barnett468

Here's one method for lubing the cable.
Cover the drivers carpet with newspaper or something.
Remove the cable from the speedo. It is easier if the front seat is out. 
Grab the inner cable with pliers and pull moderately hard on it. If it does not come out you may need to pull the assembly out of the trans first so the cable is less bent.
Grease the entire cable with any type of grease. You can also try to squirt oil down into the housing for extra lubrication.
Reinstall the cable and pray the noise goes away.

Don't forget to make sure you have the proper clearance between the booster rod and master cylinder. This is a critical clearance that few people think of checking.

That makes zero sense, it has nothing to do with his machine.

Wow, don't ever go back to the first guy cuz the specs can be found in 10 seconds by just doing a Google search.
 

And just in case you haven't noticed, your steering wheel is on the wrong side!

And just in case you haven't noticed, your steering wheel is on the wrong side!

Aligning a Mustang to Fords stock specs will not cause a significant bad driving feel. For an alignment alone to cause a car to steer so badly it feels dangerous, it would have to be a mile off, with typically the toe in being way to far in or toed out.
Is it worse now than it was before the shelby drop?
Is it worse now than it was before the alignment?
What size tires do you have?
Is there any play in the steering wheel?
Are the tie rod ends good?
Exactly what is the problem?

They should have them, so simply call them and ask them if they do and what they are.

That is definitely not always the case.

Yes ,i was simply explaning how the factory did it when it could not be adjusted . 
69 -70 is not the easiest of the doors to adjust ,the front door post is not flat ,it tapers inward at the front so the slightest adjustment one direction can change another fitting point . The biggest problem i have found with 69 -70 is the sloted holes in the door do not slot far enough and need to somtimes be slotted mor to get full travel inward ,especially the bottom area when the door bottom will not go in far enough the meet flush with the rocker

There’s nothing that needs rebuilt. The booster is only about two years old and works fine. 
But I’m working with wilwood now. They just released a more compact MS a few weeks ago. After talking with them, that’s what I’ll go with. It’s about a $50 difference between what I have now and that unit but I won’t have to mess with my booster. 

Whoever wrote that was likely smokin somethin or has a serious case of the placebo affect.
In general, indexing plugs is a complete waste of time for any street based engine.
Indexing plugs has more affect on engines running alcohol than engines running gasoline.
There is absolutely no one single position of a plugs electrode that is the optimum for all engines because combustion chambers differ in design, and the shape of the piston dome can have an affect as well.
The single easiest way to "attempt" to determine the optimum position of a plugs electrode in any engine is to run it on a dyno and test several different plug positions, however, on street engines, if there is any gain in hp, it will typically be statistically smaller than the error margin of the dyno itself, which would then render the results inconclusive.
Another method is to use transducers that will detect a misfire, then run the engine with the plugs in various positions.
The best method is to run the engine on a dyno while using tranducers.
Also, around 99.999% of the people would get significantly more hp by simply properly tuning their engine such as jetting and setting the timing curve for optimum performance than they would by indexing their plugs to the optimum position.
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No harmful effects from using power steering fluid. The type f is around 6.5w and I think the power steering fluid we used was around 7.5 - 8w. I will look into it for you when I get a chance.

We have found it to be either the pump or the control valve on different cars. We tested a rebuilt pump that had a shudder and found the pressure to be LOWER than an original pump with 100k miles on it. After we installed a pump that produced more pressure at low speed, the shudder went away. In the case where the shudder is caused by low pump pressure at low speed, a smaller pulley can help, but it's not something to do on a non stock, high revving engine, and is of course a band aid instead of a proper fix.
We had so many faulty "rebuilt" control valves that we had one of the mechanics that knew how to rebuild them, redo them and never had a problem with a control valve after that. I think one of the guys on another mustang forum mentioned what the cause of low pressure in some rebuilt pumps was but I forgot exactly what it is.
We also found that slightly thicker power steering fluid would help, but unfortunately I can't remember exactly which one it was at the moment.
 

don't twist anything before you send a photo of the front fender to rocker and front fender to door alignment. your door did not twist out of shape all by itself while it was laying around off the car. A photo of the top of the fender where it meets the cowl panel may also be useful.
Is the front fender original with no repairs?
Did you install aftermarket door rubbers?
Is the door a little hard to latch when you close it now?
 
 

If you are seriously considering having this shop do anything on your car, I strongly suggest they give you a separate price for every single item AND the exact brand and part number for each pat and the exact labor costs. The labor could be bulked together where several items in the same area are being changed at the same time like the front suspension. Then post that info and we can tell you for certain if you are getting hosed or not, but from what it looks like, you may very well be.
 

If you are seriously considering having this shop do anything on your car, I strongly suggest they give you a separate price for every single item AND the exact brand and part number for each pat and the exact labor costs. The labor could be bulked together where several items in the same area are being changed at the same time like the front suspension. Then post that info and we can tell you for certain if you are getting hosed or not, but from what it looks like, you may very well be.
 

" So I got this from one of my best friends for $600."
I think you need to find a new friend.

"With doing the work myself I figure aside from my physical time I’m better off spending $3500 on sheet metal on my $600 car than buying a $7000 car and still spending a grand or so repairing rust."
It will always have rust unless you have it dipped to remove the rust then dipped in protectant or primer to protect the bare metal. In addition, the panels will never completely line up correctly if you have to rplace quarters and door skins and fenders etc.

" So I got this from one of my best friends for $600."
I think you need to find a new friend.

Well are those prices parts and labor?
$340.00 for heater hoses?
I would post exactly what radiator they are suggesting because it is likely pos small tube chinese one. I have a real 3 row large tube original style rad here that has a new us made core for sale.

Well are those prices parts and labor?
$340.00 for heater hoses?
I would post exactly what radiator they are suggesting because it is likely pos small tube chinese one. I have a real 3 row large tube original style rad here that has a new us made core for sale.

Here's one method.
Remove the trunk lid to install the rubber.
Use painters masking tape around every 8" to hold it in place.
Tear 20 pieces of tape off and stick them around the edges of the trunk lid.
Glue a short section at a time like around 12".
Black glue is harder to see when it squeezes out beyond the gasket.
Flammable contact cement can also be used.

Here's one method.
Remove the trunk lid to install the rubber.
Use painters masking tape around every 8" to hold it in place.
Tear 20 pieces of tape off and stick them around the edges of the trunk lid.
Glue a short section at a time like around 12".
Black glue is harder to see when it squeezes out beyond the gasket.
Flammable contact cement can also be used.

no it does not need an external box and it should have a steel gear. i will try to look at it today and get a photo.