barnett468

this photo will give you a general idea of their location. if you point the window crank straight downward, the very center (left to right) of the speaker grill should line up with it. you need to also need to roll the window down then measure the distance from the window mechanism to the surface of the door then buy speakers that are slightly less deep than this so they don't hit the window mechanism.
The bottom edge of the grill is around 1/2" up from the bottom of the door, but that is an estimate.
 

 

it actually is a factor, but it's complicated to explain.
 
also, you may benefit from more idle timing but less total timing. its called "setting the advance curve".
 
 

yeah, put the same brand of 98 in it and see if it stops.

Never, ever, rely on the gauge unless you have compared it with an infra red gun.
what is the temp in farenheit?
 

Ok thats a plane jane t bird type engine.

The tire weight has virtually no effect on tracking, but the width and the shape of the tire does. Narrower tires and tires with more of a curved tread face follow irregularities in the road less.
These have nearly no affect on how much of the tire contacts the road.

Most xlnt, and this is going to be very cool. Unfortunately, people with your skills are a vanishing breed, but there sure are lots of people that can slap on bondo by the pound...or the gallon, lol.

I though it is right side up to people from "Down Under".

I though it is right side up to people from "Down Under".

Most xlnt, and this is going to be very cool. Unfortunately, people with your skills are a vanishing breed, but there sure are lots of people that can slap on bondo by the pound...or the gallon, lol.

A 418 kit costs around the same as a smaller kit but requires that the bottoms of the cylinders be notched around 3/16" which only takes around 10 minutes to do with a hand held dye grinder.

could be the headlight switch or the headlight dimmer switch on the floor . if it happens again try depressing the dimmer switch just a tiny bit. if nothing happens try dimming the lights for a few seconds a few times.
 
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If you build a stroker, you need good aftermarket heads, and a roller cam and roller lifters. As mentioned, the crank, rods, and pistons are needed, so unless you have the other parts mentioned, you will need them also. In short, if you have a stock engine and want a stroker, you can only reuse the block unless you already have a good oil pump or timing set etc.
 
 
 

Yes there are, but we are nearing extinction.

I usually run it for a least 100 miles, but in your case, you should change it right away because of all the filings from the destroyed can lode and lifter that were inside the engine. I don't run synthetic in a new engine for at least 300 miles. I would also get a magnetic drain plug.  In addition to the maknetic drain plug, you can also stick a fairly large magnet to the bottom of the ban near the drain plug.

Headers will have zero affect on "drone", but they will add a LOT of additional noise to the cabin.
"Resonators will not eliminate drone in a car that has chambered mufflers like typical flowmasters, which are the ultimate in drone, but it will reduce it if they are the correct size etc.
 
 

I would forget what the mechanic said and check the timing and carb yourself. A mechanic is rarely a tuner.

Your accelerator pump diaphragm may be dried up or needs adjusting if there is free[play in it.

Your 600 CFM Holley likely has an electric choke.  They work good, but, one drawback of electric chokes is they cool and reset faster than the engine cools.  After sitting an hour or two the choke might be closed again, then plus some pumping of the throttle causes the engine to flood.  One other possibility is when sitting for an hour or two with a hot engine, the fuel in the carb bowls heats up, percolates and drips into the motor through the circuits inside the carb, thus, flooding the motor.  One of those thick heat insulating gaskets or a phenolic carb spacer will usually stop that from occurring.  The latter situation is more common when aluminum intakes are installed and the heat crossover passage is not blocked.  Another much less common cause of flooding with Holley carbs when the motor sits is leaking metering block gaskets in the carburetor.

Your accelerator pump diaphragm may be dried up or needs adjusting if there is free[play in it.

Yeah, wow. ok, xlnt work, hopefully ridgerunner and others here will have some good ideas for you, but your question is actually a bit complicated and the issue can be addressed different ways with different results, but hopefully this will help you some.
Nobody has the production tolerances for the dimensions you are asking about, however, 8 mm will not be noticed in your application. It is more relevant in a 200 mph indy car etc.
I'm guessing you checked several points for center line as well.
A better point to measure to see if the suspension is level is the height of the front leaf spring mounts and the height of the upper control arm mounts, because they did not use the cars floor as the guide to build the car around, and a "frame" can be "square" but the cars floor may not be square to the frame, and it is more important to have the suspension square to itself front to rear than to the floor.
There are adjustable rear leaf spring mounts that use a "cam" to vary the height with. These have at least 1/2" of adjustment to them, so instead of trying to relocate part of the frame/shock towers etc, you could use these instead to compensate for the difference. If you use lowering springs on the front, you could also try to use those to level the car with by cutting one more than the other, but this is really impractical for such a small difference for several reasons, and it would simply be far easier to do with different height rear leaf spring mounts.
One thing to keep in mind is the height of the top of the fender aprons. These should also be "square" to the rest of the car as well, or more importantly, the same distance in height from side to side using the lower edge of the rockers as your level. If they are not, you may end up having to put shims between the fender and top of the apron if one side is lower than the other etc. You may have to do this anyway for several reason, but the less shims the better.
In addition, one "upgrade" I would do is to weld a thick washer around the upper rear shock mount hoes because this is a weak area on these cars and can crack, especially after 100k miles of use and/or if stiffer than factory shocks are used etc.
 
 

to get the cotter pin in  when also using the potatoe chip washer you can install the flat washer then squeeze on the outsde of the flat washer and the outside of the rod etc then install the cotter pin.

woah! we only speak inches here :-)
 

Hey, don't you have a roof to fix....again!

You can check ebay for a used one.