barnett468

whatever you do, you should not replace only 1 rotor, because that may cause the car to pull to one side some when braking.

Buy it from oreily or autozone etc so it is warranteed, but it will say "Assembled in Mexico" on the box, and the parts are probably from China.
 

If you want to improve on the stock setup, you can run EBC Green Stuff pads, and shoes if they make them.
If you drive it hard occasionally, ENDLESS RF650 brake fluid will give you the firmest pedal feel without fade.
sales@gmgracing.com
www.gmgracing.com

714.432.1582
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I agree with barnett468 but if you want closer to orig you may go here: https://www.deadnutson.com/door-rod-anti-rattle-sleeve-wire-insulator/

Ok here's the deal,. If you currently have a standard 3 row big tube rad and it is not plugged up, and your engine is properly tuned but it runs hot at cruising speed, and and you want a copper brass rad. A  $600.00 standard rad will NOT properly cool it and you will have to buy a high efficiency one, and probably one with the multi pass option.
You also must run a high flow water pump and brass milodon high flow thermostat if you use a rad that is bigger than stock if you want to get the most benefit from it.
If your car never runs hot with the current rad, even in the summer with the ac on, there is no need to change the rad.
An aluminum rad is far less expensive but obviously they don't look original.

you don't run a disc/drum prop valve on a disc/disc system, and in fact, you may not need a prop valve at all. you could try it without one, then if you need one, add it then. irregardless, a basic prop valve from wilwood "should" have enough adjustment for your app.
i never heard of the brake line kit you have or why it would affect braking bias.
you should check to make sure there are no residual valves in your master cylinder.
if you add 2 lb residual valves to the brakes, it will reduce pedal travel slightly but may also cause your brakes to wear a little faster.

All spray can paint is crap. Catalyzed paint is the most durable. You may also have a paint reaction spraying some paints over the existing crappy paint, so you will have to try a small area first.
 

Ok, you can have that tig welded by a good welder. They will grind enough material away so they will have a gap to fill that is pie shaped.
Now, here's the problem, it should not have broken in the first place, so this suggests there is another problem somewhere, ad it should be found, otherwise the same thing can happen.
Also, after that small piece is welded back on, that area will need to be reinforced, or it will crack again. There are a few different ways to do this and 2 of them are listed below.
1. Have the welder make 2 straps around 5/8" long and around 1/4" narrower than the bracket then bend these pieces to conform to the 2 areas they welded, then place them so they are 1/2 way onto the broken off piece and half way onto the larger piece and bend them so they conform to the shape of the metal then weld them.
2. Weld around a 1/4" thick aluminum "washer" to the sides of that piece after it is repaired, however, this will require the use of a longer pin, which might be hard to find.

check the shift shaft seal on the trans.

Your answer was vague because you did not state that the numbers you were posting were the stroke, which was not part of his question, unless he used the word "length" when he really meant "stroke".
"Is the crank on a 69 390 mustang the same length as a crank from a 1970 truck 390?"

ford contour fans fit the 24" radiator. you can get them shipped from the us. the only other fan that might fit that will flow around as much air is a sidewinder.
https://the-fan-man.com/product/side-winder-electric-fan-kit/

 

ford contour fans fit the 24" radiator. you can get them shipped from the us. the only other fan that might fit that will flow around as much air is a sidewinder.
https://the-fan-man.com/product/side-winder-electric-fan-kit/

 

What rpm does your engine idle at?
If you have a high performance engine and a stock torque converter, the trans can klang or jerk some when you put it into gear and the engine rpm will drop some. If this is what it is doing, you most likely need a high stall torque converter.
If the trans shifts properly by itself thru the gesrs when it is in the drive position  the torque converter is likely the problem.
You need to check out youtube for ford c4 or c6 transmission valve body removal if you have either of those to see the assembly i am referring to, but this part is something that an inexperienced mechanic should not mess with. 
You can try lowering the idle as low as possible as a test then put the trans in gear. You can also take a video of the problem and post it here.

It has been over 24 hrs, let's see the final product.

lol
 
He also should probably build it out of prefaublted amulite as well then.

Because the timing advance curve needs to be set for each particular engine. A rebuilt box stock distributor from the parts store or even a used one could be considered "ready to run" just like the $400.00 ones claim to be because your engine will run if you simply install them and set the initial timing, but they will likely not run nearly as well as they could.
I'll tell you what, I have a brand new polished billet aluminum distributor that is "ready to run" that I would probably sell for $160.00. I also have a polished aluminum water pump if you want one. We had the biggest Mustang shop on the West coast and I have a 53' trailer filled with new and used parts.
 

Where is it stamped?
The engine vin on a Ford is never the full vin, but the last set of numbers on the engine always matches the last set of numbers on the body vin if the engine is original.
They sometimes did things a bit differently in the plant that engine came from, and after a quick google search, they did in fact stamp the numbers upside down on at least some clevelands from there. It should be on the back passenger side of the engine just below the head. If it were an fe engine they sometimes stamped them on the back side of the drivers cylinder head.
Also, I have never seen a ford engine with a casting date 3 months before the build date of the vehicle it is supposed to go in, and I have seen hundreds of them, but this does not mean it would never happen, it would just be way outside of the normal time frame which should raise suspicions about an engine being original to a vehicle.
There nay also be another set of numbers stamped on the block on the oil pan gasket surface or the timing cover gasket service. This would be the actual assembly date of the engine, which was typically within a month of the casting date. These locations are only for clevelands, fe's and 429's.

If the last 4 digits match your vin, it is most likely the original factory stamp because the factory used a stamp holder which held all the stamps in it so they would all be in a nice straight line which is what yours is. An engine rebuild shop wouldn't use one.

If the last 4 digits match your vin, it is most likely the original factory stamp because the factory used a stamp holder which held all the stamps in it so they would all be in a nice straight line which is what yours is. An engine rebuild shop wouldn't use one.

Some people like myself do care about date codes, because cars are only original once, and I for one do not want to own a Taiwanese made Mustang.
Also, if you have a high value car like a cobra jet or boss 302 or boss 429 or shelby etc, i guarantee you with 100% certainty that nearly every single potential buyer is going to care a lot about whether it has the original sheet metal with the date codes on it or not. I know this for a fact because I have been repairing, restoring, and selling these for a living for 45 years, and if you have 2 mustangs that are identical except that one has all original sheet metal and the other has mostly crappy taiwan sheet metal, the taiwan car will be worth much, much less than the original sheet metal one, unless of course you find someone that just happens to prefer crappy taiwan sheet metal with no date codes that is mig welded to a car, instead of original ford sheet metal with date codes that has the factory spot welds etc.
Also, if you want to replicate the original spot welds, you will have a hard time doing it yourself unless you have a spot welder with the right tips like the one I use, and this is only going to cost you even more additional work and time, as opposed to just replacing the lower section if that is all that is needed.
The 68 mustang dynacorn had at the sema show several years ago was nice, but it cost them a ton of money to have someone make all their aftermarket pieces line up together.
 
 
 
 
 

you could not pay me enough money to change your original quarter with a pos repo one.
1. you loose the factory date code when you replace the quarter.
2. you loose the factory spot welds when you replace the quarter.
3. a new quarter will not properly line up with the door, or trunk lid etc unless you work on the quarter to make it fit.
4. it will be a bazillion times harder to make a repo quarter fit than it would to put the lower section in like latoracing shows.
 
 

The timing curve will affect the amount of fuel it uses, so it should be done as well.

You could also put them in these kick panels.
http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1918

 
 

you could not pay me enough money to change your original quarter with a pos repo one.
1. you loose the factory date code when you replace the quarter.
2. you loose the factory spot welds when you replace the quarter.
3. a new quarter will not properly line up with the door, or trunk lid etc unless you work on the quarter to make it fit.
4. it will be a bazillion times harder to make a repo quarter fit than it would to put the lower section in like latoracing shows.
 
 

all 64 thru 73 mustangs had the option for door mounted speakers. the covers below are for 69 and 70 mustangs and cougars. you need to get speakers that fit within the outside dimensions of the grills before you cut the speaker holes.
spraying the inside of the doors with ruberized sound deadener will improve the sound a little but that stuff is messy and can splatter when you spray it so wear rubber gloves if you use it and use paint thinner or lacquer thinner to wipe it off of anything inside the door you dont want it to stay on like the window tracks etc.
the factory speaker harness requires an additional hole in the door and piller post, but you can get away just using small speaker wire. 
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zz-18798-a.html