barnett468

fpa's are nice IF you have the money.

Nope . Fold it over the glass an equal distance on both sides then push the bracket over it . Test it a few times until you get the hang of it . once the thickness of the paper is just right . It will take a moderate amount of force to push the bracket on and it will not be loose once it is on.
 
I really wouldn't recommend that anyone do this themselves if they have no experience doing it because it is far more likely to install the brackets incorrectly than it is to install them correctly and once they are glued in you are screwed if they are not perfect or extremely close to it.

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i would only buy carlite glass . . $220.00 from npd . . any glass shop can order it.
 
https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Mustang_Windshield-498-1.html
 
 
if the car you are working on did not use a rubber seal from the factory, i would have a pro install it with urethane . . i have done several and if you do not use enough and get air gaps you need to squeeze some around the edge where the gap is to try and seal it . . it costs around $125.00 to have it installed where i am.
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whatever you do, i would first fill in all the holes you do not plan to use, and fix any small dents/dings.

the most original appearing aftermarket deluxe door panel for a 69/70 mustang used to come from virginia mustang and had a white plastic backing. i would sometimes need to bend the upper edge in some that the window felt stapled to, to get the right angle.
tmi has the best sewing because their lines are always straight.
american cushion industries has the most accurate seat foam in the world bar none.
if you want concourse quality interior, you can buy the original material and give it to tmi and they will sew it up for you for the same price they charge for their seat covers complete.

I would use either of the 2.87 gear trannies because they have a numerically lower first gear, so it is actually usable because you can go faster than 6 mph before you have to shift. A 3.27 or or numerically higher first gear is good for steep hill climbing or a lame V8 or even lamer 6 cylinder engine.
T5 Z SPEC . . . . 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63
TKX . . . . . . . . . .2.87, 1.89, 1.28, 1.00, .068

With those, even the close ratio versions have a fairly low first gear ratio.  My thoughts with using a close ratio top loader 4sp in my Mach 1, I'd select one of the middle two close ratio versions and use something like a 3.50 or 3.70 rear axle ratio.  The overdrive ratio will depend on how you want to drive on the freeway.

wow, that would be illegal in california.

I'm just waiting for someone to post that lame "chevy engineers" essay on timing now, lol.

and never reply to a 12 year old thread.

NEVER EVER use manifold vacuum for vacuum advance on a car that has a centrifugal advance distributor and single port vacuum advance unit, EVER, unless you like having over 30 degrees of advance at idle, so your engine may idle like crap at idle.
Also, ported vacuum has absolutely ZERO to do with emissions.
 
 
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I agree with Barnett on the ACC carpet. I replaced my factory carpet with ACC and was not happy. Just like he said, you could see the backing of the carpet on the trans tunnel and in any area where it had a bend. I sent it back and spent a few hours on cleaning up my original carpet and reinstalled, its old but still looked better than the ACC crap.

make sure the interior never had armor all or other silicone based product on it.

I'm with you there barnett468. As I drove towards their building I could not imagine what was going on with this car parked in the front lot with the doors open and the seats and carpet sitting on the car roof. Very odd looking but as I walked towards the building I figured it out. I wonder how long that car smelled like resin?    Dave R.

very nice work, but can't wait until you get to the engine portion, lol.

you should not have the front line running upward because it can trap air and not bleed it out.

if you want a super high revving engine, then build a 331, if you want monster low end and mid range power then build a 351 in to anything from a 393 to a 410.
9" as mentioned for the rear end.
 
 

you should put thin wall plastic sleeves on the bolts to keep from scratching the crank.

you should put thin wall plastic sleeves on the bolts to keep from scratching the crank.

ummm...wow, ya never know what your gonna learn on at this place.
Yeah, if it is NOT installed yet, make sure the intake runners are square to the heads. I think what 1969_mach1 is seeing is an anomaly but as he suggestes, it's good to check.
Exactly what intake gaskets are you using and what thickness are they? i prefer the fel pro laminated gaskets for this app because they are far less likely to leak water..
As suggested, use a bead of silicone instead of the cork or rubber end seals. 1/4" before being torqued down is slightly on the high side to insure that a cork gasket will seal properly. Use only gray high temp permatex gasket maker or toyota fipg for the end seals. clean the crap out of the block and intake for the sealer and wipe it with alcohol after you clean it. after installing the intake, let it sit 24 hours so the silicone can dry. after this you can cut the excess silicone off with a razor blade if you like. dont use too much or it can squeeze out and fall into the lifter galley.
 
 
 

With the gaskets in place will the bolts go down ?

Unless acc has changed something, their mass backed carpet is no denser than their standard crap carpet. It merely has a stronger backing on it. The best carpet was made by Distinctive Industries, but unfortunately they stopped making carpet so you are stuck with the crappy acc carpet.
 
 

OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you.  Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not.  your problem is more likely a connection problem. However,  I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage.  Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away.  
So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?"  yes.  "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS.  The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage.  After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops.   Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." 
Freaking genius insight.  Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely.
Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged.  So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount.  Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on.  At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit.  Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection.

Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car).  The new Solid State versions don't look like this.
Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme.  Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack!
 
Jay

yeah...when you hook the other 7 back up it should really run good.

parkerizing will leave it a dark color and it can still rust.
 
the high temp cast iron paint you brush on then bake is one of the better deals.