barnett468

this photo will give you a general idea of their location. if you point the window crank straight downward, the very center (left to right) of the speaker grill should line up with it. you need to also need to roll the window down then measure the distance from the window mechanism to the surface of the door then buy speakers that are slightly less deep than this so they don't hit the window mechanism. The bottom edge of the grill is around 1/2" up from the bottom of the door, but that is an estimate.

all 64 thru 73 mustangs had the option for door mounted speakers. the covers below are for 69 and 70 mustangs and cougars. you need to get speakers that fit within the outside dimensions of the grills before you cut the speaker holes. spraying the inside of the doors with ruberized sound deadener will improve the sound a little but that stuff is messy and can splatter when you spray it so wear rubber gloves if you use it and use paint thinner or lacquer thinner to wipe it off of anything inside the door you dont want it to stay on like the window tracks etc. the factory speaker harness requires an additional hole in the door and piller post, but you can get away just using small speaker wire. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zz-18798-a.html

Below is just 1 example of a replacement dual speaker for your dash. These will still have a "thin" sound because they are crappy speakers, so you can actually buy decent speakers and make your own setup for the dash although it will still sound a little thin. If you want a fairly rich sound that you will play moderately loud for a stock type system, and do not want speakers hanging under the dash or in boxes sitting ton the rear floor behind the seats, I think you are going to want both the rear speakers in the quarter panels and the factory style ones in the doors. You will also need decent quality speakers and possibly a decent amp mounted in the trunk, but again, you can start small then add as you deem necessary but one trick to this is to buy speakers that are matched to the power you plan to use. This is not critical but it is helpful, but I think you should determine a maximum amount you want to spend on it first. Another [problem is that most of the aftermarket radios that are designed specifically to fit in the original radio hole of a mustang are a bit cheap sounding, so if you are much of an audiophile, you will probably want a better radio than these. That being said, how picky should a person be when wanting a better sound system for a 40 year old convertible. https://www.classiccarstereos.com/1969-1970-ford-mustang-dual-dash-mount-speaker.html

Yessiree, that is exactly what I am talking about. Thanks for posting the photo. as it is obviously self explanatory.

you can put around a 6" shallow speaker in each rear quarter panel plastic, but you need to cut a hole in the sheet metal which will not hurt anything and wont be seen. if you ever remove them you can just put new vinyl on the rear quarters. this in conjunction with the dash mounted stereo speakers will give you reasonable sound but door mounted ones would help considerably. maybe do the dash speakers first then add quarter speakers or door speakers if you want more. custom auto sound has several different radios for mustangs, and i am a dealer for them so i can probably get you a decent price.

That's interesting and good info but it won't cause "dieseling" which is also sometimes referred to as "run on".

Ok thats a plane jane t bird type engine.

Yes, but you live in california, and If that was ppg paint in those buckets it would be a few thousand dollars, lol.

it will not cause any problem. you can also but metal or plastic hole plugs at any hardware store to put in the old holes if you want to make it look a little nicer.

that is a low hp engine and never came in a mustang per se unless it was a cal special. how many exhaust bolt holes are there?

Never, ever, rely on the gauge unless you have compared it with an infra red gun. what is the temp in farenheit?

yeah, put the same brand of 98 in it and see if it stops.

it actually is a factor, but it's complicated to explain. also, you may benefit from more idle timing but less total timing. its called "setting the advance curve".

I like that, it's more like the 67 68 shelby hoods in the rear.

ok, i will take a look for it in a day or so.

ok, there are many mfg's of leaf springs, and many put the car much higher than it came stock. Sometimes these springs need to be re-arced to lower the car. You can certainly try removing the small leaf and try it but the car must have all the interior in etc. Nobody can give you informed decisions on shocks until you drive it and tell us if you want it stiffer or softer and what shocks you currently have on it etc.

One possible way might be to cut a piece of textured plastic around 3/32" thick that conforms to the raised area and is the same width as that area then use 6 or 7 "L" brackets welded to the hood with a nut fixed to the backside or u nut to secure the plastic to the brackets with black oval head machine screws etc.

put 700 lbs in the trunk

Well...

The shelby drop does not allow much more of the tire to contact the road at all, because unless one is running 45 series tires etc, the tire flexes which allows the thread to stay in contact with the road. The main purpose of the shelby drop is to change the roll center of the car, not to make more of a tire contact the road. "the real improvement comes from the change in the geometry of the suspension. The “roll center” of the suspension is raised, which causes the front suspension to resist “body roll”, which makes the suspension feel, and act, as though a larger sway bar were installed." If one wants the tread of the tire to stay as square to the ground as possible, equal length arms with the same mounting spacing in and out must be used, because this forms a type of parallelogram, however, this system maintains the most tire contact in a turn when there is little to no body roll.

The tire weight has virtually no effect on tracking, but the width and the shape of the tire does. Narrower tires and tires with more of a curved tread face follow irregularities in the road less. These have nearly no affect on how much of the tire contacts the road.

I wish I still had a BOSS 429 that I could measure for you, lol.

I though it is right side up to people from "Down Under".

Most xlnt, and this is going to be very cool. Unfortunately, people with your skills are a vanishing breed, but there sure are lots of people that can slap on bondo by the pound...or the gallon, lol.

If you are willing to use sections that are cut out of another car, it seems to me that you may be able to just use some flat sheet metal and cut it to the size you need then just weld that in. No need to make the job more difficult or complicated if it doesn't need to be.