Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by barnett468

  1. Just curious as to exactly why you are making this and also if you are able to make one from carbon fiber with the same mold.
  2. Since it started running on when all you did was switch to lower octane, the lower octane was causing it to run on, which is why I suggested you simply switch back to the previous gas you were using. Old plugs will not cause an engine to run on. Also, when trying to determine the cause of a problem, only one item should be changed at a time.
  3. The drain back problem is in the heads and with roller rockers because they flow way more oil than non roller rockers which is why it is best to restrict the oil flow to the rockers when rollers are used, but the stock rockers can flow a bit of oil too when they are worn, and the problem is greater at higher rpm until the back pressure in the oil system opens the bypass valve. on a low revving engine with good rocker arms and an oil restrictor to the arms, it will never over oil/flood the valve covers. if the engine is rebuilt with tight bearing clearances and has good stock rocker arms, the high volume pump is overkill but a good blueprinted pump and good oil are still beneficial. Also, the main problem is not that all the oil gets sucked out of the engine on an fe with a high volume pump, it is that the oil pickup is in the front, so if you street race or drag race, the oil can run to the back of the pan exposing the pickup to air. installing a large, baffled pan is the cure to this problem, but there are some people that race and use stock pans etc that fry their cranks and then blame it on all the oil getting sucked out of the pan, so as you know, one needs to take what some people claim with a grain (or a pound) of salt. the cobra jet oil pan is larger than a standard fe oil pan because ford knew people were going to street race the car. they did not think people would street race a lincoln town car, so they did not use the large pan on those. there are also pick up tubes that are larger diameter for the high volume pumps but it must fit the oil pan depth you use. the oil drain in the heads exits on the intake sealing face, and sometimes the intake can block off part of the oil drain hole in the head so you can check this. if it does, you can sometimes grind the intake some or widen the drain hole in the head by beveling the edge to clear any part of the hole the intake is obstructing. i think the water jacket in the intake is close to one of oil drain slots in the front of the intake so if you do any clearancing, just make certain you don't go into the water jacket, or make the wall too thin. if there is any casting flash in the drain hole in the head you should clean that out also.
  4. I have been buying rocker arm parts from him for around 25 years.
  5. ok, here is the key to the kingdom of stock type rocker arms, and his prices are low. http://www.rockerarms.com/ cj oil filter adapter by scott drake $60.00 https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-oil-filter-adapter-390-428cj-428scj-1967-1970/p/C8AZ6881A/ here's 3 used originals https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=used+ford+cobra+jet+oil+filter+adapter&_sacat=0
  6. It is not necessary to do any mods if you build a stock engine and don't rev it to max rpm often, but it is helpful to use a blueprinted oil pump, arp oil pump drive, and high quality synthetic oil, although the oil can weep past a rope seal or t piece rear main seal. A high volume oil pump is also extra insurance in some cases. Most people just use a 69 - 70 holley main jet, but restricting the oil to the rockers is more critical when roller rockers are used because they allow a lot more oil past them than stock rocker arms do.. It's also helpful to use a cobra jet style oil filter adapter and to drill out the oil passages from the adapter to the lifter galley. Radius the holes in the block under the oil filter adapter and make sure the oil pump hole lines up with the hole in the block as you may need to radius the hole in the block some to get full alignment. Make sure the rocker arm shaft is not scored underneath the rocker arms. . .
  7. Yes, the GL5 can definitely cause problems in some cases.
  8. .................................
  9. In this case, his engine build date is not close to the car date because it came out of another vehicle that was built at another plant.
  10. Where is it stamped? The engine vin on a Ford is never the full vin, but the last set of numbers on the engine always matches the last set of numbers on the body vin if the engine is original. They sometimes did things a bit differently in the plant that engine came from, and after a quick google search, they did in fact stamp the numbers upside down on at least some clevelands from there. It should be on the back passenger side of the engine just below the head. If it were an fe engine they sometimes stamped them on the back side of the drivers cylinder head. Also, I have never seen a ford engine with a casting date 3 months before the build date of the vehicle it is supposed to go in, and I have seen hundreds of them, but this does not mean it would never happen, it would just be way outside of the normal time frame which should raise suspicions about an engine being original to a vehicle. There nay also be another set of numbers stamped on the block on the oil pan gasket surface or the timing cover gasket service. This would be the actual assembly date of the engine, which was typically within a month of the casting date. These locations are only for clevelands, fe's and 429's.
  11. I'm getting tired just watching you do this, because that is a massive amount of work. Did you know Monroe Weathers from Mustangs And American Classics, or Chuck Frankenstein or Ray at Cinema Vehicle Service?
  12. No, because a dealer would have not been able to get an engine with a date preceding your car, plus they would not have a holder to gang stamp it with plus dealers rarely put a vin on a warranty engine. I will say that I have never seen an engine number stamped upside down on one though, if that is what yours is. Most Ford engines are within 2 weeks of the actual build date of the car, which may be slightly different than the "projected" build date on the door tag.
  13. If the last 4 digits match your vin, it is most likely the original factory stamp because the factory used a stamp holder which held all the stamps in it so they would all be in a nice straight line which is what yours is. An engine rebuild shop wouldn't use one.
  14. The timing curve will affect the amount of fuel it uses, so it should be done as well.
  15. The main jets have zero to do with it dieseling.
  16. I have not used his but i know many people that have and many have high horse engines, and everyone of them raves about it them, and he uses high quality parts. He has probably been making them since before anyone else. He only sells direct and does not sell them thru stores. This is a sideline business for him. .
  17. You could also put them in these kick panels. http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1918
  18. Some people like myself do care about date codes, because cars are only original once, and I for one do not want to own a Taiwanese made Mustang. Also, if you have a high value car like a cobra jet or boss 302 or boss 429 or shelby etc, i guarantee you with 100% certainty that nearly every single potential buyer is going to care a lot about whether it has the original sheet metal with the date codes on it or not. I know this for a fact because I have been repairing, restoring, and selling these for a living for 45 years, and if you have 2 mustangs that are identical except that one has all original sheet metal and the other has mostly crappy taiwan sheet metal, the taiwan car will be worth much, much less than the original sheet metal one, unless of course you find someone that just happens to prefer crappy taiwan sheet metal with no date codes that is mig welded to a car, instead of original ford sheet metal with date codes that has the factory spot welds etc. Also, if you want to replicate the original spot welds, you will have a hard time doing it yourself unless you have a spot welder with the right tips like the one I use, and this is only going to cost you even more additional work and time, as opposed to just replacing the lower section if that is all that is needed. The 68 mustang dynacorn had at the sema show several years ago was nice, but it cost them a ton of money to have someone make all their aftermarket pieces line up together.
  19. you could not pay me enough money to change your original quarter with a pos repo one. 1. you loose the factory date code when you replace the quarter. 2. you loose the factory spot welds when you replace the quarter. 3. a new quarter will not properly line up with the door, or trunk lid etc unless you work on the quarter to make it fit. 4. it will be a bazillion times harder to make a repo quarter fit than it would to put the lower section in like latoracing shows.
  20. I would use a fan controller from this guy. Is that a dual fan? http://www.dccontrol.com/
  21. this photo will give you a general idea of their location. if you point the window crank straight downward, the very center (left to right) of the speaker grill should line up with it. you need to also need to roll the window down then measure the distance from the window mechanism to the surface of the door then buy speakers that are slightly less deep than this so they don't hit the window mechanism. The bottom edge of the grill is around 1/2" up from the bottom of the door, but that is an estimate.
  22. all 64 thru 73 mustangs had the option for door mounted speakers. the covers below are for 69 and 70 mustangs and cougars. you need to get speakers that fit within the outside dimensions of the grills before you cut the speaker holes. spraying the inside of the doors with ruberized sound deadener will improve the sound a little but that stuff is messy and can splatter when you spray it so wear rubber gloves if you use it and use paint thinner or lacquer thinner to wipe it off of anything inside the door you dont want it to stay on like the window tracks etc. the factory speaker harness requires an additional hole in the door and piller post, but you can get away just using small speaker wire. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zz-18798-a.html
  23. Below is just 1 example of a replacement dual speaker for your dash. These will still have a "thin" sound because they are crappy speakers, so you can actually buy decent speakers and make your own setup for the dash although it will still sound a little thin. If you want a fairly rich sound that you will play moderately loud for a stock type system, and do not want speakers hanging under the dash or in boxes sitting ton the rear floor behind the seats, I think you are going to want both the rear speakers in the quarter panels and the factory style ones in the doors. You will also need decent quality speakers and possibly a decent amp mounted in the trunk, but again, you can start small then add as you deem necessary but one trick to this is to buy speakers that are matched to the power you plan to use. This is not critical but it is helpful, but I think you should determine a maximum amount you want to spend on it first. Another [problem is that most of the aftermarket radios that are designed specifically to fit in the original radio hole of a mustang are a bit cheap sounding, so if you are much of an audiophile, you will probably want a better radio than these. That being said, how picky should a person be when wanting a better sound system for a 40 year old convertible. https://www.classiccarstereos.com/1969-1970-ford-mustang-dual-dash-mount-speaker.html
  24. Yessiree, that is exactly what I am talking about. Thanks for posting the photo. as it is obviously self explanatory.
  • Create New...