Jump to content

barnett468

Members
  • Content Count

    3,726
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    66

Everything posted by barnett468

  1. by the time you spend the money to have them fully ported and large valves installed, you could have spent a little bit more and just bought aluminum heads, which are not only a on lighter, and will flow better and give you more hp, you can also run a little more compression with them.
  2. removing the bump alone will do very little if you have stock exhaust manifolds, and won't do a whole lot more if you have headers, but i prefer to remove it on mild performance engines. since you have the heads off, i would determine the compression and increase it some if it is warranted for your particular app. i would also check the deck height of the pistons and possibly use a thin head gasket from cometic to improve the quench/squish clearance to reduce the potential for detonation.
  3. ford contour fans fit the 24" radiator. you can get them shipped from the us. the only other fan that might fit that will flow around as much air is a sidewinder. https://the-fan-man.com/product/side-winder-electric-fan-kit/
  4. ok, just in case you don't know, the 69 stripes are smooth, meaning there is no texture to the surface. The 70 stripes are slightly rough like sand paper, so be sure to get the correct paint for the year car you have. Duracryl is probably the best and most accurate these days. Also, if it is a 1970 and you use the textured paint, you should find someone that has done this on a Mustang many times before and used this particular product, otherwise, it is possible that the results may be "unpleasant". Also, also, I think you can still get this product in either lacquer or enamel, and the enamel goes on thicker so it will leave a bit more of an edge. The lacquer is more correct but it may react unfavorably to the existing paint. Welcome to world of paining stripes in the year 2020, lol.
  5. 1. It is idling way too high. This will cause it to slam into gear and you may very well damage the trans. 2. If there is a vacuum line going from the distributor to the carburetor or intake, disconnect it and plug the fitting on the carb or intake that it is attached to. 3. It does not sound like the cam in the engine is so big that it will not idle much lower, therefore, you must get it to idle lower somehow. There is a screw to set the idle with. It is located on the left side of the carburetor (as you are sitting in the drivers seat) and it pushes on the throttle arm. This screw needs to be turned counter clockwise (to the left) to lower the idle. Turn the screw out until the engine dies. If you can turn the screw out so the tip of it no longer touches the throttle arm and the engine still does not die, you have an air leak or there is something that is preventing the throttle blades from closing all the way. If this happens, disconnect the speedometer cable and try it again. If this does not close the throttle any further you need to find out why the throttle blades are not closing completely. 4. You can also try temporarily retarding the timing. It should around 10 degrees before top dead center when the idle is low. If the timing is set too high, it can prevent you from being able to lower the idle speed very much.
  6. Just happened across this carbon fiber hood from anvil for "only" 2499.00, but it doesn't do a thing for me.
  7. the problem with vinyl is that it is not going on a flat surface due to the crown in the hood, and there is no such thing as an aftermarket vinyl center hood stripe, however, you can have a vinyl wrap shop fabricate something, however, unless it actually has some type of adhesive, it may not stick. if you have a shop make one have them give you a written guarantee it will not bubble or lift anywhere for a year or something. you can also have phoenix graphics make a stripe that is wide enough from 3m brand adhesive decal/stripe material but it would reguire someone very good to make it work so the outer edges are parallel once it is laid over the crown of the hood, because the higher the crown, the more it will pull in the sides of the stripe. also, just for novelty info, the painted stripe and trunk and tail panel black out on a 69 is not black, it is dark indigo blue. .
  8. yeah, good trannies when they are built right. i think there is a wider high perf band for the drum, and maybe a different drum for the wider band, been so long i don't remember exactly.
  9. What rpm does your engine idle at? If you have a high performance engine and a stock torque converter, the trans can klang or jerk some when you put it into gear and the engine rpm will drop some. If this is what it is doing, you most likely need a high stall torque converter. If the trans shifts properly by itself thru the gesrs when it is in the drive position the torque converter is likely the problem. You need to check out youtube for ford c4 or c6 transmission valve body removal if you have either of those to see the assembly i am referring to, but this part is something that an inexperienced mechanic should not mess with. You can try lowering the idle as low as possible as a test then put the trans in gear. You can also take a video of the problem and post it here.
  10. lol, thanks, that was amusing. It's always fun to read comments from insanely envious people!
  11. What facebook page was this on anyway? the fomoco facebook page is a good one to use, but you already know, but others here might not.
  12. I just googled copyright and intellectual property forums and here ya go. Looks like anyone can join. Forum http://www.intelproplaw.com/ip_forum/ Sign up page http://www.intelproplaw.com/ip_forum/index.php?action=register
  13. WTF? Damn, I have missed the sh_t show, this is hilarious. I used to work at Kawasaki Motors USA in the R and D department as a project engineer, so I know at least a little about intellectual property and copyright law because we had to deal with it periodically, and I have no idea what went on, on the faceplant page, but you haven't infringed upon any copyright or intellectual property, but it sounds like you already know that, but you can in fact use the word FORD if you advertise the hoods if you word it correctly like, "This hood fits 1969 and 1970 Mustangs". It's that simple, because you are not claiming it is a Ford licensed product or an original Ford product etc, but just for safety sake, it might be a good idea to talk to a copyright lawyer if you plan to sell these, just to find out the safest way to advertise them to avoid any unnecessary drama. I can't imagine you would have to pay one more than $200.00 for an initial consultation etc, and, there may very well be some internet sights that copyright people post where you might be able to get some info for free just to start with if you want to.
  14. Did it do this before? I know very little about trannies, but my guess is that it is related to the valve body, which is fairly easy to remove, and disassemble to clean, otherwise if the problem it is inside the trans, it needs to be disassembled.
  15. I figured I should ad the following as well. Alcohol can cause premature valve failure because it is "dryer" than gasoline, so the more alcohol there is in gasoline, the sooner the valve seats will wear providing the fuel mfg's did not add a lubricant to the fuel to counter the effects of the alcohol, however, it may be difficult to determine if they did, so one option that can used to lubricate the valve seats in engines that have non hardened seats is to add a lubricant to the gasoline, and there are some products that claim to do that, but they also have other additives which shouldn't be a problem because these products were designed to be added to fuel, however, if one wanted a product that was primarily a lubricant that was designed to be mixed with gas for the sole purpose of lubricating it, one can just add some 2 stroke oil. I would use the least expensive mineral based 2 stroke oil I can find and start with a ratio of 150:1. Yamalube S is a common one, and at 150:1, it should only cause a very small amount of smoke, if it causes an at all, and you could even mix it at 200:1, but obviously the lubricating effect would be reduced some. None of these products will reduce valve seat wear as well as TEL (lead) which you can still buy and use as an additive if you want, and many racing fuels and aviation fuels have lead in them, and it is legal to run, but it's just not really eco friendly, plus you don't want to get it on your skin because it can go thru it into your blood stream, but it would take a lot of repeated exposure for it to build up sufficient toxicity to cause a problem. Here's a short list of fuel lubricant/additives, of which some are also claimed to be fuel stabilizers, fuel stabilizer product, so I have no personal experience with them. Power Zol by Lubrizol. They make the oil additives that most, if not all the automotive oil mfg's in the US add to their base oil. Sea Foam Soy Plus
  16. You absolutely do NOT "need" hardened seats in your particular case unless you have fairly high valve spring pressures, I guarantee it, however, if any of the seats are sunken in, they should be replaced with new seats. One of the problems with the chevy's is that some people put huge cams in them with high spring pressures and this causes the seats to wear prematurely, especially if their engine is not tuned properly, which it often isn't, and when their valve seats go bad, they blame it on the head material instead of their own ignorance. Also, installing valve seats is an art which I am familiar with because I ran the cylinder head rebuilding department of a big machine shop for a while, and if they are not installed properly, they can, and sometimes will fall out, especially if an engine gets hot, like around 210 degrees or more, and I have had them fall out of the heads in 2 cars I had bought before, and in one case it broke the piston.
  17. It either doesn't ping because it is a low compression engine or the total amount of advance is too low for it to ping. on the average, 32 degrees of total advance is common. I wrote the following for people to use as a guide to check the initial timing and timing curve. Disconnect and plug the vacuum hoses to the dist if you have any. Start your timing at 8 degrees BTDC. With the engine idling, advance the timing 4 degrees . Listen for an increase in rpm and irregular/rough running. If the rpm increases and it still runs smoothly, reset the idle speed then increase the timing 2 more degrees and check for the same things. Retard the timing to 8 degrees. Reset the idle speed. Increase the rpm to around 2000 and advance the timing 4 degrees . Listen for an increase in rpm and irregular/rough running. If the rpm increases and it still runs smoothly, reset the engine speed to 2000 rpm then increase the timing 2 more degrees and check for the same things. POST RESULTS
  18. if it runs cool on the highway at the same outdoor temp, your rad is big enough and it is mainly an air flow issue, but since you have electric fans, its hard to tell. factory fans will work better but they will probably not work better enough that they will fix the problem, so you may also need to try a high flow water pump and a brass milodon t stat. also, if your ignition timing is not set to the optimum level, it can cause the engine to run hotter than it otherwise would.
  19. did you just get this car and it has been doing this since the beginning? can you post a photo of the rad tubes from the rad cap hole? is this a stock engine or high perf? that rad does not flow as much air as an original used ford contour fan. dished pistons don't mean much as far as bore size goes but it sounds so far that you have a big problem and it might be bored .040" or ,060". either way, you may very well end up spending around $800.00 us to get it to cool properly. a 180 t stat is all you need when the cooling system is sufficient. i doubt a 190 will help much but that is a cheap, easy place to start.
  20. 1. How hot was the outdoor temp when it got to 220? 2. What did it cool down to once you were going faster? 3. How long did it take to cool down? 4. Exactly what electric fans did you install? 5. What engine do you have? 6. Do you know how far it is bored? 7. How many rows deep is your rad? 8. What temp is your thermostat?
  21. There will only be a small gain from having a "cross flow" rad, and if your car runs hot now, a cross flow of the same exact spec will not cool it. Does it run hot now?
  22. I only use gears from us gear or the italian version of motive gears.
  23. lol He also should probably build it out of prefaublted amulite as well then.
×
×
  • Create New...