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Everything posted by barnett468

  1. People that say traction aids are not needed for street cars that are drag raced must know way more than thousands of other drag racers know, plus perhaps maybe they should have mentioned that to Carrol Shelby, so he wouldn't have wasted his time and money installing them on every single 65 and 66 Shelby he made. Stiffer shocks and/or a watts link will also increase ride harshness. 225 is not far off if you are road racing it and don't mind having your spine compressed and fillings jarred loose on the street. That would be a better choice than 225 for a street car. "Composite" springs will perform a little differently than steel springs, so it's hard to say with certainty, what composite spring rate will be the closest to a steel spring rate, but they still shouldn't be very far apart at all. Why do you want rear springs that are more than twice as stiff as stock ones? .
  2. check the shift shaft seal on the trans.
  3. yup, i understand. seen that many times. does the engine speed increase a lot also when it jumps to 20 degrees?
  4. The big spring that is loose is supposed to be slightly loose. Yes, I know it seems off, but that is the "technology" Ford used 540 plus years ago. The outer spring tab is designed to be bent as needed to adjust the timing curve. To check the vacuum advance, simply push inward on the rod after it is disconnected from the timing plate. It should be moderately hard to push in due to the spring inside it. If you can move that rod in and out freely, the advance unit is bad. If the advance unit is good, as a experiment in your case, you could remove your light spring in the left side of the photo and install one that feels just slightly stronger and try that. The correct spring will slow the ignition advance down some so it will not suddenly jump to 20 degrees when you advance the timing at idle from 8 to 10. From what I can tell, the second springs down are close to stock but may be slightly stiffer, and the first springs should be stiffer than the ones below it, so compare one of the second springs down to the smaller/thinner stock spring first. You can rotate the rotor a few times with the stock springs to get a feel of how much resistance it has, then install a different small spring and do the same test to compare both. All the other springs are going to be too stiff. Also, there should be a little tension on these smaller springs when they are installed.
  5. ok, did you set it to 8 degrees then lower the idle back down to where it should be? once it jumps to 20 degrees, the idle should increase, but if you turn the idle screw out, it should lower the idle back down and the timing should then be at 8 degrees. you may have weak advance springs, or a broken advance spring in the distributor or vacuum advance module. i have had this same problem of the timing suddenly going high after I advance the timing just a little.
  6. 1. yes, you can do 4. 6. 8. and 9 that way if it is easier. 2. I hold the throttle open by hand as i turn the distributor, but that an be a bit difficult for some people, so you can screw the idle screw in until the rpm is around 2000, or wedge something between the screw to increase the engine speed.
  7. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line and leave it disconnected, forever and ever, or until further notice. I wrote the following for people to use as a guide to check the initial timing and timing curve, however, if you have a stock, or near stock camshaft, your initial/idle timing should not be higher than 10 degrees. 1. Disconnect and plug the vacuum hoses to the dist if you have any. 2. Start your timing at 8 degrees BTDC. 3. With the engine idling, advance the timing 2 degrees . Listen for an increase in rpm and irregular/rough running. 4. If the rpm increases and it still runs smoothly, reset the idle speed then increase the timing 2 more degrees and check for the same things. 5. Retard the timing to 8 degrees at idle. 6. Reset the idle speed. 7. Recheck the timing. It should still be at 8 degrees. 8. Increase the rpm to around 2000 and advance the timing 4 degrees . Listen for an increase in rpm and irregular/rough running. 9. If the rpm increases and it still runs smoothly, reset the engine speed to 2000 rpm then increase the timing 2 more degrees and check for the same things. POST RESULTS
  8. 1. Ok, the timing is likely close enough and the battery and starter etc are good. 2. Yes, and yes, but your comments suggest that it is unlikely to be related to the timing, however, if the timing is off just a little, it may start slightly easier/faster if it is set to the optimum setting for your particular engine specs. 3. Not always. A slightly high fuel level can cause starting problems when it is hot that do not occur when it is cold. This can happen for various reasons, but it is best if you can tell us exactly what carburetor you have first. 4. "Hot" engines can be hard to start, plus, it should not run hotter than any other engine unless there is some problem? Exactly what temp does it run at in traffic and on the freeway, and how hot is the weather etc?
  9. Unless the head or intake gaskets were leaking, they would have no affect on how it starts. Some things that cause hard re-starting are, incorrect ignition timing, engine too hot, fuel level in carb incorrect (typically too high). Is the engine is turning over more slowly when you try to restart it?
  10. Ok, look at it this way. The stock rear spring on a 1970 fastback with a 351 is 85 lbs, so doubling the spring rate would be a lot for any street app. Also, the lower the profile is on the tires, the harsher the ride will be, so you need to look at many factors when determining the best spring rate for your particular app. This being said, the most common upgraded" spring rates people use are from 125 to 165 lbs. You can also get some from Detroit/Eaton Spring, and Meir Racing. If you drag race the car, you might consider "anti wrap" springs, or traction bars like Traction Masters or Caltracs etc".
  11. Are you saying that you connected the oil cooler lines incorrectly so no oil was going into the engine? Exactly what do you mean by "thumping"?
  12. Ok, what was it, an exhaust leak at the doughnut?
  13. You should be able to push down on all of them unless they have oil in them. If you did not change the lifters, some will still have oil in them, and the oil will have leaked out of some of them, but neither is a problem.
  14. Here's one simple way to do it. 1. Forget about the " rotate the push rod" method, because it is far from precise. 2. Put number 1 cylinder on top dead center on the "Fire" stroke. 3. Put a .002" feeler gauge between the tip of the valve stem and tip of the rocker arm. 4. Tighten the nut just until there is zero play in the rocker. You can test this by trying to GENTLY lift the end of the rocker off of the feeler gauge. It will take a couple of practice tries to get the feel of it. If it takes even a tiny bit of force to remove the feeler gauge, the nut is a tiny bit too tight. 5. Once you have zero play with the feeler gauge installed, remove the gauge then tighten the nut anywhere from 2/3rds of a turn to 3/4 turn. You can typically run the lifters anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn, so it is not critical to be exact. 6. After number 1 is done, rotate the engine to the second cylinder in your firing order. If it has a stock camshaft, it will be 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, if it has an aftermarket high performance cam, it could be either 1--5-4-2-6-3-7-8, or 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
  15. Hedman Elite headers are by far the best bang for the buck.
  16. lol, you're pretty funny. You definitely want water in it, and there is no break in required on the gaskets you installed, but after this type of work, i start them with straight water in case there is a hose leak etc, just to reduce the mess it will make. Also, if you use a thermostat, you should check the coolant level after it has been running for around 3 minutes, because these systems sometimes get a big air pocket in them which prevents the full amount of coolant from being added until the thermostat opens some, but turn the engine off and use a "lever" type cap so you can safely let any pressure out that has built up before removing the cap. check the coolant level again after maybe 10 minutes, then after that it should stay at the same level. Also, leave around 12 - 15 mm of air space between where the rad cap seales down inside the filler neck and the water level. This allows for some expansion without spewing water out the overflow. , but
  17. Here's their mild 302 engines but make sure it is not bored more than .030" over, and see what type of warranty they have. https://www.tristarengines.com/performance/ford/302
  18. unless you are drag racing it all the time, both the mcleod and centerforce dual friction discs are xlnt. the off brand kevlar clutches from china are total crap. you also need a pressure plate with at least 2400 lbs of clamping force if you beat on it much, and if you drag race you need around 2800 - 3200 lbs of clamping force but you will also need a left leg the size of a redwood tree to push it in.
  19. I don't understand your question, however, an scj mustang is worth much more than a standard cj mustang if all else is the same.
  20. remove ALL the screws from the radio bezel yank outward on the bezel hard to remove it remove the screw on the bottom of each side molding and remove the molding remove the screws from the radio bracket pull the radio straight out far enough to unplug it remove radio after it is unplugged. virginia mustang had the best and most accurate door panels by far, but the top flange that the window felt stapled to sometimes needed to be bent at a little more of an angle which can be done. their panels had a white plastic backing. i don't know if they still sell the same ones. RD
  21. Your answer was vague because you did not state that the numbers you were posting were the stroke, which was not part of his question, unless he used the word "length" when he really meant "stroke". "Is the crank on a 69 390 mustang the same length as a crank from a 1970 truck 390?"
  22. Removing the bumps is ok and will help a little but my point is that if you want big performance gains that you will easily notice, you need to do the other things in addition to removing the bumps.
  23. ok removing the exhaust bump alone is nearly pointless in your case because you need bigger valves and some professional porting done to get significant gains. you can in no way simply just start grinding on the holes to make them bigger in hopes that you will gain more hp, and in fact, you can loose hp by grinding on them incorrectly. they need to be properly modified for the bigger valves, and typically, modifying the short turn radius's properly with stock or larger valves will increase hp. porting is a science and an art, and is therefore best left to these types of people.
  24. what exactly is your goal? what size will the engine be? how much hp do you want to have. afr's are are arguably the best overall, with trick flows also being very good but more affordable, but you can get decent performance from the chinese aluminum heads these days for far less money but you need to remove the crappy rocker arm studs and install good ones.
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