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barnett468

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Posts posted by barnett468

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 5/6/2020 at 3:25 PM, Mach1 Driver said:

    And what is that exactly?

    Eastwood's high temp gray can be brushed on manifolds, allowed to dry 24 hrs then the engine is run 20 minutes. But it doesn't say anything about baking it on parts that don't get direct engine heat. You must be talking about something else.

    nope, that is it. I have used in on master cylinders many times. It is not required to bake it on but it is better, plus it can be dried with a high watt hair dryer or heat gun which is better than not heating it at all.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Machspeed said:

    I had considered going with a four wheel disc conversion (Previous Thread Posted) but after much thought have decided to stick with OEM set up of front disc brakes and rear drums. In this venture alone I'm left with many questions and some confusion. Also, in this particular area, I don't feel the need to spend a ton of cash. I'm going to order new single piston calipers through NPD however the area of uncertainty is in the rotors. One of my rotors could probably be turned, the other likely not. These are factory two piece rotors for which I believe I can press the studs out and separate the two pieces. Correct me if I'm wrong on that, please? I'm not finding many options for the rotors unless I go with a single piece rotor. I'm thinking I would like to just keep my factory rotor hubs and purchase new rotors to press unto my hubs, if you're following me here???

    I found the following link and I think it my allow me to do what I'm talking about above: https://www.r1concepts.com/detail_catalog/index/r1-carbon-geomet-Series_eLINE-Series/ref=FORD+MUSTANG+1969+Front_Disc_BrakesSMCL_351_dna_390_Cubic_Inch_Engines+Front+Slotted_Rotor+silver+++    

    They offer a smooth rotor like the OEM unit but also offer drilled and slotted options with coatings to keep down the rust. They don't offer the coatings for the smooth. I like that but I'm not sure that those drilled and slotted rotors would work with my OEM calipers and the OEM style pads. They do sell pads but not for my car. Thoughts on this?

    Another concern I have should I go this route of buying just the rotors and pressing them onto my hubs, will there be some issues in balancing?

    Thanks, 

    John 

     

     

     

    do you have a boss 302?

  12. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, JamBaLam said:

    Thanks! 

    Any word on popular fluids throughout? I want to drain and replace all of them.

    As far as oil goes, in your particular case, and due to the extreme cold winters, a couple of good choices are below, however, the synthetics can cause some engines to weep oil at the rear main seal. Wallyworld has the best prices on them. As far as oil filters go, Wix is one of the best for oem apps.

    Valvoline VR-1 10w-40 Semi Synthetic.

    Mobil 1 0w-40 FS - This is one of the best oils available.

    As far as anti freeze goes, the old prestone green or zerex asian formula are both good, and if you let it sit for long periods i would use the zerex.

     

     

     

  13. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, JamBaLam said:

    Is it power steering on the right in red?

    Water pump in the middle?

    Alternator on the left?

    Whats the red thing just to the right of my distributor?

    Is that my power center on the far left wall?

    1. yes.

    2. yes.

    3. yes.

    4. ignition coil.

    5. the blue box is a stock type voltage regulator.

    6. the round thing above it is the stock type starter solenoid.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    You can certainly put a brake booster in there since ford made power disc brakes on 428 mustangs.

    Without a booster you will need to run 17 inch rims with the large diameter rotors if you want to be able to stop without having to use 2 feet on the pedal. Also, if you use wilwood brakes, the radial calipers are the best ones they have.

    Also use the wide rotors wilwood makes if you use their brakes.

    You can also install 2 lb residual valves in the front and rear lines to reduce pedal travel.

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    30 minutes ago, Machspeed said:

    The problem I have with replacing the OEM parts is that most of them are made in China. And, what pisses me off is that one really has to look to find out the origin of the product. Looking at replacing it all with Raybestos through Rock Auto. Thoughts/comments please?  

    Most aftermarket discs are now made in China, including, some, if not all Raybestos rotors. EBC pads and discs are  made in England.

     

  19. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Machspeed said:

    Thank you gentlemen! After looking at things and evaluating the use of my car, am thinking I'm going to stick with the stock setup.  

    If you want to improve on the stock setup, you can run EBC Green Stuff pads, and shoes if they make them.

    If you drive it hard occasionally, ENDLESS RF650 brake fluid will give you the firmest pedal feel without fade.

    sales@gmgracing.com
    www.gmgracing.com

    714.432.1582
    facebook | twitter | youtube
     

     

     

    Machspeed reacted to this

  20. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/13/2020 at 3:53 PM, Print Dad said:

    So I think I am getting a new radiator  - that is part one - I will keep the old as a backup 70 Mach 1 - 351C -no air and standard trani

    The issue may be that I installed an 18 inch clutching fan.

    I purchased a shroud - but it looks AWFUL at the top near the upper tank.

    MY problem now is I don;t want to spend 75-100 for something that doesn't fit or look good.

    I know someone with a 24 inch radiator must have installed a 18 inch clutching fan.

    the car NEVER overheated.

    I like the top of pix 1 and 2 - pix 3 is my shroud which looks awfull

     

    1. Since you have a manual trans, both the radiators I have will work.

    2. Yes, it is.

    3. The 69 vs 70 BOSS 302 shrouds for 24" rads may be different.

    4. If the 70 shroud is different you may be able to use that one.

    5. Yes, then they took it right back out because it hit the shroud.

    6. Then it won't overheat with the correct smaller fan.

    7. I think your photos 1 and 2 are a 69 shroud.

     

    1970 Boss 302 and 70 351 cleveland fan shroud.

    Ford-Mustang-Boss-302-Engine-740x493.jpg

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, signorc said:

    Installed the new 8" double diaphragm with the 1" bore mc and I can FINALLY lock the front wheels! 

    I had to take the front brace off cause the booster wouldn't fit in between the brace and inner fender.....but it's all good now!

    Tomorrow I'll adjust the proportioning valve amd I think the last thing to do is wait for the lockdown to end so I can take it for a drive :)

    That's great news, however, it is better if you use the brace, so maybe you can modify it, or eventually get the right booster.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    do you have repo fenders or doors?

    did it fit better before you took it apart?

    you "should" be able to run up to around a 3/32" gap between the cowl panel and fenders.

    around 5/32" is a typical door gap with 3/16" being around the max and pretty large at that.

    I have seen that pillar post gap vary in width with it being around 1/4" on average.

    The gap between the sides of the hood and the fenders should be around 5/32", and this gap will determine what the gap between the pillar post and door, and fender and cowl is.

    I have had to literally "twist" doors on a box stock car to get everything to fit to what I thought was an acceptable degree.

     

     

     

     

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