barnett468

Ideally the driveshaft should be at a steeper uphill angle then the diff. For example if the pinion is level and the driveshaft is 1 degree down this is the opposite of ideal although it will not necessarily cause a problem. The problem is when the amount of angle is not the same at the engine or trans as i mentioned in my other post. I posted photos and videos on driveshaft angles on here a while back but i can't find it now. Its much easier to understand by looking at those. Even though you have a fixed diff the faster you go the higher the front of the car gets and the lower the rear gets and this changes the angle of the driveshaft relative to both the trans and diff

"Ideally, the amount of driveshaft angle at the trans and pinion should be exactly the same but in opposite directions. I agree, mine are .55° apart. " That is actually such a small amount that it "should" not cause a problem. I have seen them farther apart then that and not cause a vibration. I'm guessing that your link arms are not adjustable. If not you could install ones that are adjustable on the top or the bottom then set the pinon angle the same amount as the trans etc and see if that helps. Some driveshafts can also produce harmonics that can cause a vibration but these are typically aftermarket ones. "One of the major issues with setting up the driveshaft angle, is that on a leaf spring suspension that does not have a torque bar like a old SS Camaro has, I don't have leaf springs. I installed a triangulated 4 link." Yes I saw that, I just added the leaf spring comment for others that might read this that have leaf springs. .

"Cooper Cobras aren't nearly as popular but a safer bet these days." They are also much cheaper then T/A's and probably work better. I know for a fact that they squeal far less then the T/A's did after Goodrich changed their formula. for the worst. "Now that I've said that I better duck the incoming." What "incoming" is going to be coming in that you need to duck? . .

What exactly do you mean by "the largest"? How will you be driving the car, mild or semi aggressively? The lower the profile, the better it will corner but the firmer the ride will be. .

Your driveshaft goes uphill 2.85 degrees from the trans? What is the angle from the pinion to the driveshaft? Ideally, the amount of driveshaft angle at the trans and pinion should be exactly the same but in opposite directions. For typical street use, anywhere from 1 1/2 to 3 degrees seems to be fine in my experience. The higher the speed, the straighter the shaft should be providing it is never exactly parallell to the trans and pinion for a prolonged period because the u joints will not "rotate" in this position which can cause premature u joint wear. One of the major issues with setting up the driveshaft angle, is that on a leaf spring suspension that does not have a torque bar like a old SS Camaro has, the springs will flex (develop a slight S shaped bow) under load, which allows the pinion to rise. The greater the load, the higher the pinion will rise, which of course changes its angle relative to the driveshaft. This means that the angle of the shaft will change the harder one accelerates and the faster one goes. The pinion can rise several degrees in some cases, but I typically allow for around 1 - 1 1/2 degrees in rise at freeway speed on standard leaf spring type applications. Some others do it differently but this is the method that has worked for me. .

its most likely caused by driveshaft angle then.

If you are standing still and leave the trans in park then hold the engine at around 2500 rpm, does it still have the vibration?

that link didn't work but it is plain old j b weld on the edge that butts up against the body then fill in the low side behind it with plain old bondo . done it countless times even on and high end show cars. bear in mind that the end caps and front fender extensions (headlight housings) can flex a little when tightened which can sometimes cause almost any type of filler to crack.

I use j b quick on the mating edge then bond behind that.

Tinted glass was definitely an option on a non ac car in 65/66. As far as 65/66 cars that came with clear glass always having a tinted rear window, I don't remember that but I suppose it is possible but it wouldn't make any sense as far as I can tell. It also makes zero sense to me to put clear glass in an ac car but they obviously did.

And this changes the driveshaft angle that lanky mentioned which can cause a vibration and/or premature u joint wear.

did you check to see if there is air in the lines?

Interesting, that was not the case on the 65 and 66 cars.

Tinted glass was supposed to be mandatory on all a/c cars, but i would email kevin and ask him if he has ever heard of such a thing as clear glass on an a/c car.

Are they used on pipes that are flanged on both ends, like to maybe hold the muffler or cat on? I restore vintage cars and they don't use those types of clamps.

i hope you re-balanced it.

Happens on some of the factory welds also, so at least in this regard, they are made "factory correct", lol.

Oetiker makes several types of pinch clamps plus a screw type clamp, so to simply say "I use Oetiker clamps" doesn't help people to understand exactly what type one is using.

I used that image merely as one of several different styles of band clamps that are available as opposed to the cheap looking hardware store worm clamps. I have never seen anyone use the type of clamp I posted on the exhaust.

He's alive!

You could also use some fancy band clamps too if you don't like the look of the tower clamps or hardware store type worn clamps and clock the clamp so the screw is on the bottom side. I use band clamps frequently, even on fuel lines unless I am doing a stock, show type build.

Here's another possible option. These were used on 69/70 BOSS 302's.

Good point and I meant that i had to tighten the f out of them even when using the washer. I didn't do that without the washer.

Yeah but I doubt they are happy that you put their steering wheels on the "wrong" side.