barnett468
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Posts posted by barnett468
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On 10/10/2020 at 4:44 AM, Mach1 Driver said:unless its the rings
lol
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On 8/5/2020 at 12:21 PM, TexasEd said:Radiator: I have a non-AC car that had AC added as a dealer option. I still have an original 20" radiator. I went back and forth on aluminum but I hate the silver through the grille and would like to avoid electric fans since they detract from engine/exhaust sound and want to look fairly stock. In the future I may stroke my 302 so I want to get something suitable.
I found this one that says it is a match for the original copper 24" radiator. Any reviews/experiences? https://www.npdlink.com/product/radiator/106094?year=1969
Headers: My exhaust leaks. It is better than before but still bad enough to address it. I have original cast iron manifolds. I have PS and C4 Trans right now but think I want to stay with Shorty Headers. I've narrowed it down to these JBAs: https://www.npdlink.com/product/header-shorty-jba/107082?year=1969 or maybe these Hookers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-70303405rhkr
That rad is a good brand that has the correct size tubes. I have two 24" rads with the large tubes I will sell for only $300.00 but they do not have the trans cooler because i use them for manual trans cars or with external trans coolers because the internal trans cooler is not sufficient for high perf cars.
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comp cams lifters are crap by the way.
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remflex gaskets seal irregularities the best, and are burn proof.
my friend has percy gaskets on his car and the headers have a thick 1/2" flange and they are leaking.
since the burn area is all on the bottom of every cylinder, make sure there is nothing forcing the header outward on the bottom.
jba gaskets are only good for the trash can and you couldn't pay me to use one.
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not all fans are created equal. the highest flowing fans are factory ford from a taurus, or lincoln, or contour with a v6 engine. a fan controller should also be used and the one from dcc products is one of the best.
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On 8/9/2020 at 3:51 PM, TexasEd said:Radiator Update:
Thanks to the help here I think I am going with this kit from WCCC. It is complete with shroud, mounts and clutch fan setup. I would need to get those parts anyway and th price is pretty competitive.
That kit is not available, also, you should never buy a radiator unless you know exactly what size the tubes are and how many tubes there is in it.
I cleared my inbox so you should be able to leave me a message now.
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On 8/5/2020 at 12:21 PM, TexasEd said:Headers: My exhaust leaks. It is better than before but still bad enough to address it. I have original cast iron manifolds. I have PS and C4 Trans right now but think I want to stay with Shorty Headers. I've narrowed it down to these JBAs: https://www.npdlink.com/product/header-shorty-jba/107082?year=1969 or maybe these Hookers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-70303405rhkr
I am open to others as well but I want it to work with what I have now and if I do a 331 Stroker and possibly add an AOD or the off chance I go to a T5 in the future.
Thoughts on this or anything else I should take care of at the same time as these?
Thanks!
Hedman Elite headers are the best bang for the buck and the remflex gaskets are one of the best to use, or the soft aluminum gaskets.
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On 8/5/2020 at 12:21 PM, TexasEd said:Radiator: I have a non-AC car that had AC added as a dealer option. I still have an original 20" radiator. I went back and forth on aluminum but I hate the silver through the grille and would like to avoid electric fans since they detract from engine/exhaust sound and want to look fairly stock. In the future I may stroke my 302 so I want to get something suitable.
I have 2 big tube radiators that I will sell for much less than that. Send me a pm if you are interested.
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On 8/6/2020 at 6:41 AM, danno said:For the radiator, I just bought one from CJ Pony parts. It looks very much like the one you found, but about $200 cheaper. Sometimes you pay for what you get, and the one you found could be a much higher quality product, but how would we know?
Determining if it is good or not is easy, as you just measure the size of the tubes, and if they are 1/2" x 1/8" it is at least decent, and the more rows it has the better it cools if all else is the same.
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On 7/24/2020 at 5:55 AM, Mountaineerfan said:Thanks, everyone! That stinks that they aren’t reproduced!
why would an aftermarket company reproduce something they will rarely sell any parts for and will never come close to recouping their investment back out of?
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harland sharp rockers used to be good, but hard to say now. you might call and ask where they are made.
did you restrict the oil flow to the rocker arms with a restrictor and are you using the cobra jet style oil filter adapter?
prw is "overseas" made, and is crap.
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ummm...wow, ya never know what your gonna learn on at this place.
Yeah, if it is NOT installed yet, make sure the intake runners are square to the heads. I think what 1969_mach1 is seeing is an anomaly but as he suggestes, it's good to check.
Exactly what intake gaskets are you using and what thickness are they? i prefer the fel pro laminated gaskets for this app because they are far less likely to leak water..
As suggested, use a bead of silicone instead of the cork or rubber end seals. 1/4" before being torqued down is slightly on the high side to insure that a cork gasket will seal properly. Use only gray high temp permatex gasket maker or toyota fipg for the end seals. clean the crap out of the block and intake for the sealer and wipe it with alcohol after you clean it. after installing the intake, let it sit 24 hours so the silicone can dry. after this you can cut the excess silicone off with a razor blade if you like. dont use too much or it can squeeze out and fall into the lifter galley.
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Unless acc has changed something, their mass backed carpet is no denser than their standard crap carpet. It merely has a stronger backing on it. The best carpet was made by Distinctive Industries, but unfortunately they stopped making carpet so you are stuck with the crappy acc carpet.
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On 6/30/2020 at 6:25 PM, rwcstang said:tried sending you a message, ur inbox was full.
I cleared my box.
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It should never be mounted directly to the radiator. it should always have at least 1/2' of space between anything it is mounted to. also, not all oil coolers are the same. some are far more efficient than others.
here is another mounting location option.
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On 6/23/2020 at 7:38 AM, Boss429Dreamer said:I saw a video where the owner just removes the rotor under the distributor cap.
That would pretty much do it, lol.
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On 6/26/2020 at 9:07 PM, rwcstang said:totally agree, and I did my homework learned on how to ID a mach 1 or FB in general, Brian hit the nail on the head.
when I texted him the first time, he didn't want to give up any information other than ppl were asking about the listing and someone offered 20k which he offered a viewing today at 4-5pm (pst). I told him I was not interested in a bidding war.
luckily someone saw the car and called him out.
if you send me a pm with your contac info i will let you know if i come across one in so cal. i have seen 3 of them in the last 6 months.
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You can not get a rad core with the factory size tubes anymore, therefore, you should get a 4 row core if you can.
I have nos motocraft distributor caps if you need one.
you can get the concours spark plug wires and battery cables from kevin marti if you dont already have them
deadnutson.com also has some rare concours parts as well as semo mustang and mansfield mustang and perogies
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I have done this for 40 years.
1. Unfortunately, you can not match it yourself.
2. PPG solvent base is one of the best paints to use to get the closest match on old school original paint jobs. Water base paint will not even be close.
3. If you have to spray an entire panel, you should blend it into the adjacent panel, otherwise it will stick out like a sore thumb.
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Acc carpet is complete crap, distinctive carpet is the best however distinctive no longer makes carpet, so unless you are luvky enough to find some place thst has some left over, you are stuck with the crap csrpet.
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On 5/18/2020 at 9:40 PM, Fabio AM said:Hi Jhon.
2 years after, i have the same dilema and question you had. I want the Magnum 500 (Chrome) 15x7 + 15x8, but in several pages i found offers from Wheel Vintiques, Scotts Drake and Coker Tires. Pictures and descriptions looks almost the same and prices are similar.
In your experience wich could be better? I look for best quality, im out of USA and i cant waste time and money on claims and product changes
Appreciate your comments
I already posted that specialty wheels are the best but you now have to buy them from coker tire.
351W Rebuild or Crate Motor?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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if the bottom end is good and you can get at least 9.0:1 compression ration, the heads will help if you also install a bigger cam but then you may need to change the gear ratio.