barnett468

There have been many inconsistencies from ford. Even some of the competition suspension cars did not get the staggered lower plate, but your main questions have been answered. .

Boss 302 cars also had staggered shocks. They were was purportedly supposed to come with the competition suspension option.

I don't know what you mean by "shackle". but the bottom plate on the staggered shock side is different than a non staggered shock one and is probably a bazillion dollars if you can find one, HOWEVER, if I recall correctly, you can in fact use the non staggered plate on the staggered plate side with the biggest difference being the angle of the hole the shock shaft goes into. If you want the angle to be more correct you can modify the bracket accordingly but it is not necessary as I recall. These are repo staggered plates. . These are originals .

That answer is in my previous post. but more specifically, that type of mount was on 69 and 70 cars only

no need to measure anything. just remove the lifter and look at the cam lobe and bottom of the lifter. if they are not smooth, they are bad.

What engine code is your car? It came on all 4 speed cars and it can NOT really be "carefully" removed. if you look inside your trunk you will see a 30" long 2" high by 2" wide piece of sheet metal running side to side just beyond the gas tank that has around a bazillion spot welds on it. This piece is all part of the tiny shock bracket on staggered shock cars. You could just cut off the amount of bracket underneath the car to get the clearance you need. Removing the bracket will not greatly affect the value of your car since it will be highly modified anyway. Removing any portion of the staggered shock mount will not adversely affect the structural integrity of the body.

unfortunately they can no longer get the good us made cores with the correct size tubes which unfortunately renders your rad basically useless.

the ford "cross flow" rad will typically not cool a hot running engine with a non cross flow enough to make it run cool if all else remains the same, so your problem lies elsewhere. less than optimal ignition timing can cause an engine to run hotter than it otherwise would, also, if it is bored more than .030" over, it will likely be next to impossible to make run cool on a hot day, especially if it has ac. i have an original style rad that i had recored with the original style big tubes if you need another rad.

Thaat's ok, you are nowhere near as sorry as the guy that owns that car.

Why do you not want to use Ebay?

It has the wrong hose clamps.

If it is not pumping up it will tick. It will also often squirt oil around 2 feet out of the push rod. If you definitively determine it is the lifter and not something else like a flat cam lobe etc, I would replace it instead of trying to disassemble it and fix it. ,

sell the fb keep the vert, lol.

That is just a tiny bit bigger than the howards cam i posted. If you have aftermarket heads and want a little more power you can use the 1.72 rocker arms i mentioned.

Both the cams i listed are very streetable. The second cam will have a very noticeable lope at idle but it will not be extreme. It is also the most popular cam for ford 347 strokers and 351 windsors. The first cam will have less of a lope but more than a stock cam. The 262h cam is completely lame and useless as a performance cam in a 351. A comp 268h is the smallest cam you should consider if you want more performance than a stock cam. You will also not easily be able to run 110 mph or more with a 262h cam unless you are going downhill. To safely run 110 mph you need to reinforce your control arms and run stiffer springs like 610 in the front and at least 140 in the rear. You also need to lower the entire car at least 1 inch from stock, plus the front should be at least 1 inch lower than the rear and 1 1/2 lower than the rear would be even better. You should also install better strut rod bushings and very good shock absorbers like custom bilsteins from street and track, or high quality shocks with separate damping adjustments for compression and rebound or ones with high rebound damping like drag racing or road racing shocks, and sub frame connectors and a small rear sway bar if you don't currently have one.

This cam with 1.72 rocker arms and around 10.5 compression will let you run 110 mph pretty easily, but you need high octane gas equivalent to or higher than around the us 98 rm/2 octane rating. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220951-10 here's another https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-246-3/overview/make/ford I would use the crane anti pump up lifters with it and group IV or group V oil. I would also do several other engine mods.

I hope you have a lot if suspension mods done to do that speed. I can post some cams later as well.

The needle does not tell what the actual temp is. Only an infra red gun or gauge with an actual readout in farenheit or celcius will. A non original temp sender will typically position the needle in a different location than a properly working orig sender will when the engine is at the same operating temp, therefore, if the needle reads lower or higher with the aftermarket sender, it does not mean the actual engine temp is lower or higher, so it can be confusing as to whether the engine really is running hotter or cooler etc. A gauge with a numerical read out is the best way to determine engine temp.

You can not use the needle as an indicator of temp, because it will read differently with an aftermarket sender than with an original one, however, with the orig one, the needle will be around 1/4 up from cold if the sender is working properly. .

the gasket can move and even squish out during assembly if you use silicone on both sides. when i use cork i glue it to the block with gaska-cinch then use silicone under the ends and on top. a silicone bead works xlnt if the right silicone is used. the best to use is permatex ultra gray. it is far better than the permatex ultra black. you may also be able to use toyota fipg but i have never used it for that purpose. i sand the gasket sealing surface on the ends of the intake with 180 grit so the silicone can get a better bite on it. do not put water in the engine or start it until after 24 hours when using silicone only as an end seal.

they will all need vacuum metalizing but you can cheat and paint it with chrome in a can instead. i think the vacuum metalizing was around $150.00 the last time I had it done.

omg...ok, i hate you now. that belair is killer . i love those cars. you can get the instrument bezel "rechromed" so the edge around the gauges looks like chrome the way it originally did. the process is called vacuum metalizing.

I am not sure what you are after, however, if you want Mach 1 wood grain dash and glove box pieces, I have a few. I also have a new wood grain radio bezel and the stainless door trim for the deluxe interiors and many other parts. I am also a scott drake dealer and might be able to save you some money on some parts if you want.

Unfortunately they are all crap mainly because the rubber is a bazillion times harder than the factory rubber but carpenters is less crappy than most others.

as mentioned, it would be helpful to know what your compression is. it is possible that simply bolting on higher ratio rocker arms will give you more power, but without the cam and head flow info, it would just be trial and error. also, your ignition timing needs to be set to the optimum level for your particular engine to get the most power out of it. if you have a vacuum secondary carb, you can probably get more mid range power by installing a lighter secondary spring.