barnett468

must be nice to be young, lol. it would probably take me about 10 minutes nowadays to do the quarter in any car with a manual trans.

ok i am on my big screen now so here's the deal. that intake is not designed or intended to use a spacer. if you use a spacer it needs to be a solid one top and bottom. the phenolic spacers are solid plus they reduce carb temps. that intake is not designed for that carb. it is designed for a standard 4150 like the one below. notice that it does not have the pcv port in the rear. this was most .likely leaking in the left rear corner. i have seen it before. all the people that have leaks have your style carb not the style below, so they blame the manifold. yes it would be better if holley designed the platform to be wider but that intake design is ancient and precedes the type of carb you are using so there was no need for them to waste material plus make it heavier by making a wider platform. they designed a performance intake, not one intended for smog/emissions equipment if your fill material is strong, your fix will work fine, but the spacer is reducing your low end performance. if you want more low end, just but a 1/4" - 5/16" thick phenolic spacer. if you need the pcv fitting buy one for a 69 - 70 boss 302. . . this is just one style .

hello . thanks for the photos but i was hoping to see a good one of the bottom of the carb since the carb base is the problem. . anyway did you test it for leaks again with something like flammable brake cleaner etc? . does it work any better now?

ok, thats kind of a bummer but i would not be using aluminum foil to try and seal anything. i would buy whatever i needed to fix it properly. if you feel up to it post a photo of the bottom of the carb with and without the gasket on it.

that intake is designed for that carb. if it leaks then most likely the carb base is warped or the gasket is too thin in which case the plate won't help. there are two thicknesses of gaskets depending on what brand you buy. i never use the paper thin ones.

Ok, but it was intended to be a friendly joke.

The answer is quite simple, they just don’t like us, lol. My friend was the computer housing designer for either Hewlit Packard or IBM. I watched him design a case. He sent the specs off to…Taiwan who was making the cases. 6 weeks later, they said the first sample was done so he had to fly there and look at soup with ducks feet floating in it only to find that that two of the specs on the case were not made to his cad design, therefore the parts would not fit. He flew home and had to go back 6 weeks later and look at some more ducks feet in his soup.

That's great, however, in this case, it seems that the op apparently wants to do what we want him to, lol.

Actually I don't need to go to Taiwan to see that many of the repo parts they make don't fit properly or that many of the electrical parts they make fail soon after purchase. All I have to is buy a door or B pillar section from Dynacorn or a starter solenoid from Autozone etc.. Or you could say a US company had it made in Taiwan simply because they want to support their economy, or because they can not make it here and be competitive because of excessive gov taxes or because they are unionized and therefore have to pay someone $25.00 an hour just to sweep the floor and clean the toilets or because some Americans want cheaper/more affordable parts than the US made ones so these companies are simply giving those particular Americans what they want or because they will need more than X number of employees to mfg it here in which case they will have to pay all of their medical insurance which they might not be able to afford or whatever. Yes because it is made to Taiwan standards as I said in the first place. Yes, this is absolutely correct and imo is a good thing to some degree especially when some of the parts are not available NOS or US made, and not knowing that the "overseas" pieces are often made to lower standards as far as material and tolerances go, or knowing that and simply taking a chance they might fit at least well enough that only minimal modifications might be needed to get them to fit properly, we are also free to return them when the parts don't fit properly and well enough to suit us like the op's B pillar post in this case. .

you can't easily butt weld a piece in because it is too thin. you can weld a piece in behind it to extend it to the bottom then bondo it in. it gets a alightly generous bead of seam sealer at the bottom as you can see in the red door jamb photo above. if you want to butt weld it, you can try to tig weld it as someone suggested if you happen to have a tig welder and are really good with it, or you can try to braze it but if you don't clamp it flat it will possibly warp badly. .

wheel trim is for old people that also put those nice little curb finders that look like antennas on their car. don't be one of "them".

they holley is a piece of cake to tune. if you have trouble with that you would never be able to tune an out of tune edelbrock or q jet etc..

well...uh....yeah...i suppose that might work, lol. actually you will go slower with that trans because you have to shift more. the power of that big block will pull the 4 speed nicely, but if i had my choice i'd get the 600 if i did much fwy driving.

hello . the manual auto is still much easier to shift than a top loader though .. . if you go top loader i would use the big 10 spline . you will have to find the right tail housing then decide on the wide or close ratio. . i would also use the orig style 3 finger pressure plate . . mcleod sells then .. i would also reinforce the equalizer bar and run a needle bearing pedal pivot . .b i.

if your car runs fine with no hesitation or flat spots, and your plugs look good there is nothing to fix.

ok so it tuns fine now i guess and there is no lead build up on the plugs. you can't tune a carb to a perfect afr. if it runs fine and your plugs are not medium brown or darker and the ring on the plug is not heavy black, its pretty close to perfect.

i added more questions to my post. please try to answer them or we can't help you much. what do you mean the afr won't move? we need way more info.

ok, well lowering the float will not make your car rich so the level is fine and .040" is nothing. what is your idle and max timing now? what was it before without the vac adv connected? what was it with it connected? why do you think it is rich now? where are you buying gas that has lead in it? when did the plug fouling start? what is your spark plug number? if the plugs are too cold they cab foul. what do you mean you calibrated the carb on the road? what else did you change? .

no there should not be a huge gap there. it was made in taiwan to taiwan standards.

they are adjustable but you have to remove the bowls to do it on yours. just measure where they are and lower them 3/16 - 1/4 inch and try that.

thanks for that info and i am familiar with that and several also run the 2 speed turbo glide. i just wasn't aware you were that concerned about drag racing because you mentioned street along with some drag in your post although i could see die hard drag racers being concerned about saving .2. even though its a weaker trans you can still build them to be pretty strong. it only needs to be strong enough to hold up. thanks for the info, did not know that.

hello; i'm confused, how is a weaker trans going to be an improvement? also, i'm curious as to how you plan to bolt the small block trans to the big block bolt pattern? .

set your gas level so it is just below the inspection holes with the engine running. what us your idle timing? it should be around 8 - 12 degrees with the dist vacuum plugged and connected.

HELLO; Ok, well first of all, tell us what the timing is exactly? is your diistributir vacuum connected to ported or manifold vacuum? disconnect and plug the dist vacuum. start car and turn the distributor until it smooths out and just reaches the highest rpm and tell us what that number is. it should be around 12. in other words, 4 would be unusual and around 18 or more would be unusual. 10 - 12 is very common for stock cams and most street performance engines. you can get a piston stop tool and determine tdc with that and check it against your damper marks. as mentioned, verify your firing order., i could be one of two. 1 5 4 2 6 3 6 8 - std 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8 351 - windsor and 5.0

your starter bendix might be bad.