barnett468

you can buy a new holley down leg booster carb then buy new float bowls and cross over tube from holley so it will look similar to stock. the lettering on the front of the new bowls is slightly different and the needle and seat might sit a hair higher possibly requiring a 3/16" spacer under your air cleaner.

the valve function is a bit complicated actually but the bottom line is that it is not flowing enough air when it needs to. if you simply remove the hose and plug it into the valve civer, it should be flowing enough air and even too much air. it is possible that if you removed the valve that the orifice in that particular pcv would be too small. look at it this way. that shiny new adjustable one will only cost you the equivalent of two full tanks of gas, or 3 cases of Heineken or...

Yeah ,its been around for a little while but as you know, most people don’t pay much attention to the pcv and even if they do they don’t realize there are different sizes etc.. Therefore no one looks for them. The adjustable one is the best overall option because you can set it to exactly where it should be. I have seen the ones in the link you posted but never used them. They may work or may even have too much flow at idle which will be bad. It's obviously a trial and error thing, but if it doesn't work, its $18.00 down the drain and back to more trial and error and oil all over the engine.

No. A pcv for a 140 ci 90 hp engine that that revs to 4600 rpm on a downhill with a tailwind OR...a valve for a fire breathing 500 hp 1970 Boss 429 that revs to 6800? .

hello can you feel your valve suck very much if you put your finger over it? yes, that is a very cool valve. it is designed for big engines and/or any engine with excessive blow by etc.. the pcv should go to the csrb or carb spacer and never directly to the intake manifold. no, a 3/8 hose is enough. if you need a 1/2" hose, you need new rings, lol. here's how to see exactly what is going on and how to set that nice new valve you will eventually buy. To set the valve for cruise you can get a twist in rubber grommet, a threaded brass fitting with a 1/8" or 1/4” npt threaded hole in the end, a threaded fitting with a 1/8 - 3/16 nipple on it, then screw that into the big fitting and jam it into the grommet. Put a little grease around the outside to seal it at least when it gets to the point of having vacuum. Connect a pressure or vacuum gauge to it. Drive the car on a flat road at around 40 mph. Set valve so that there is around 5hg of vacuum reading on the gauge at that speed. Try it at 50 and 60 also. As long as there is never pressure at steady cruise it is very close. keep in mind, the ones the parts store gives you will likely not be correct and a used orig for any of the cars i mentioned will likely hurt your wallet pretty bad. .

Ok, first of all your valve is definitely too small. all engines have some blow by. the bigger the engine the bigger the pcv typically needs to be, UNFORTUNATELY, there is no such thing as a pcv valve flow chart any longer. There used to be an AC Delco pcv flow tester but it is 40 years old. Sooooo, you can try ones from a 70 - 73 Hemi, a 70 LS6 Chevelle or 70 435 hp Vette, OR, you can buy the fancy shiny aluminum one below and not worry if yours is big enough. http://mewagner.com/?page_id=444 Also, unless you buy an orig off of ebay, the one you get from the parts store is most likely NOT going to be the correct one for the cars I mentioned and will most likey be a lower flow type. .

hello; your pcv valve may be too small. pinch off the rubber hose with the pcv connected to the valve cover. the rpm should drop slightly, up to around 100 rpm. if it does not change, the valve because it is either bad or it is too small. if you pull it out with the engine running and put your finger over it and it has very little to no suction it is bad so a new one the same size you have, may or may not work, just have to try it. if you leave it as is, you should connect a breather hose from a vented oil fill cap to the air cleaner. you may have a little blow by. .

unless that is a box stock 2 barrel you need at least a 670 cfm and for a moderate or higher hp 4 barrel you need a 750.

this is hilarious, horrible prob t have, lol. besides simply removing 2 spark plug wires to cure the prob, do you have traction bars? do you have staggered shocks? if no traction bars the first thing i would do is install some cal tracs. a locker might also help. i also don't think the kyb's are doing you any favor, if they are the gray ones, throw them in the trash for sure and look at the orange adjustable koni's. also, it you have plain NT555 tires, you need NT555R or NT05R. http://www.nittotire.com/race-tires/nt555r-dot-compliant-competition-drag-radial-tire/ just what is your setup if ya want to fess up? do ya got some kind of supercharger on it? . .

hello; advance your timing as much as your engine will tolerate it if you have not done this yet. then reset you idle and you will have more vacuum. if you can't get more than that then you need an auxiliary vacuum canister or vacuum pump. also, your brake pads might be cheap organics. hawk pads are good. .

. +10 buy scott drake or moog. i think the torque on those is actually 35 ft lbs, not 50. .

Ok, thanks for the detailed build info, it sounds killer, however, again, it would help to have more detailed info to offer you the best cam selection. Also. are your pistons flat top? in general, you will likely need a little more compression to run a bigger cam that you have been. As sportsroof mentioned, thumper cams…well…they do exactly what they are designed to do which is make a lot of noise. They are NOT designed to make optimum power. If you want noise, buy some single chamber Flowmasters. Your neighbors will hate you, I guarantee it. That cam you have is stout, what do you not like about it. I really can’t imagine running anything bigger with your set up. it should also have been a bit noisy. HEADERS - You need st least 1 5/8 tubes. if they are smaller than that they are choking your engine. CAM - The one below is pretty ridiculous for your car. you would need to get it made on a small base circle core but in your case. i would also run lifters with large rollers with it. morel makes them for $750.00. you should most likely run an rpm air gap or vic jr also, however, i would really spend the extra money to get a custom cam. call bullet, cam research and straub technologies for info. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1671&gid=289 .

hello; are you sure? i don't see them listed. i know they make an ss model with annulars but its mechanical secondaries. the holley 670 low rider carb us annular as well as both summit shoe box carbs.

hello; unless comp updated their break in instructions they are incorrect. can you post a copy? need to know if your pistons are flat top. exactly what heads you have and how many cc's they are, intake, carb and exhaust and current cam number and gear ratio. do you want: mild, moderate or nasty/rough idle? sounds like you want nasty. freeway flier, lite to lite drag car or inbetween? low end power or high rpm screamer?

hello. unfortunately your cam is wasted by the lifters. the most likely cause is improper break in. i would take it apart and redo it especially if you drain the oil, drag a magnet thru it and get any metal, because if you do, it is stuck all over the inside of your engine and hard to get out.

the lips may help keep the trim ring on when pushing on the edge of the pedal. your pedal takes a trim ring which will fill in the yellow arrow area. i would install the trim then cut the lip off flush with the outside of the trim ring.

there are 4 lips on the backside to hold it on. if one is missing it is no good. if it has extra lips that are short and point toward the floor when the pedal is installed, they are unnecessary but won't hurt anything. .

not sure what you mean.

make sure you have a disc/disc master. It should not have residual valves. check the clearance between the master and the brake rod. It should be between .015” and .025”. bench bleed the master as suggested but do it with the front of the master pointing upward a little. Let each brake bleed for around 2 minutes. Check the reservoir during bleeding to insure it does not run out of fluid.

hello malcolm . if your tach has a red wire it connects the way rktmn posted . . if it does not have a red wire it connects the way i posted .. . if it has the red wire then the black wire goes out and must be connected to the pink wire or a resistoir coil or a 1.5 ohm resistor . . use the resitor if you want to keep 12v to the coil .in which case you will end up with a power wire and the tach connnected to the pos side of the coil.

ford wiring diagram for 68 may be different than your tach ill check later tonight. . the tach man may have a diagram online also. black wire on 2 wire assy goes ito neg side of coil black with green stripe to distributor black wire on 3 wire assy goes to ground blue with rd stripe on 3 wire assy goes to blue with red stripe on black of bevel for lites. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/89255d1264897998-1968-mustang-wiring-diagrams-tach-please-help-tach-wiring-diagram.jpg

Hello MUST; I get the ignition timing curve close first. Incorrect timing can cause hesitation upon acceleration and poor performance that some might confuse with being a carb issue. Also insufficient timing can cause an engine to run hotter than it normally would.

hello; the std holley is a bit easier to tune/adjust. no way to tell how big of a carb you need unless we have a lot more info. how many rpm does it rev to? does it idle smooth or rough. exactly what is your ignition timing at the following with the distributor vacuum disconnected: idle 1800 rpm what is maximum/total timing? what rpm is total timing reached? have you tried increasing the amount if timing to see if it will idle smoother and run better? .

hello; the booster is the same for auto and man as was stated but they are different from disc and drum. if you have tall valve covers and they hit the booster, you need to run the shelby style that have the notch cut out on the left rear for booster clearance. the pancake style should clear. you can buy aftermarket ones also from abs. http://www.abspowerbrake.com/maincatalog_frameset010.html .

no prob, you're welcome. you probably won't feel any difference in power between the two. i would run the 4 hole but again, unless you are spinning 6500 rpm or more you don't need it and it hurts your bottom end. that being said, if it runs good enough for you then just leave it.