barnett468

yeah, looks like npd listed them incorrectly. i looked them up and they say they are bronco bushings. bizarre.

also you cant use that cam in a 69 block. what heads and intake do you have? cam end play from .002 - .010. alignment with crank gear within .005 there are single and double bearing set ups. these cams will work or call bullet cams. also try, cam research and straub tech if you want a custom cam. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=816&sb=0 http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=818&sb=0

hello . what bearing? . all cams use the same type thrust plate . . you can buy a torrington bearing but you need a special thrust plate.

well unless yours came unglued i would simply reuse them

maybe because you ordered bronco bushings instead of mustang ones?

lol, yes i am both old [kinda] and old school. i actually have something else for that so i never thought of a paper clip instead of what i do. if i have any computer stuff that needs doing i just have our neighbors 14 year old kid do it.

any plating shop can do it. cadillac plating in orange county calif.

xlnt question

if you are worried about header and starter access or clearance, why not just run the deep sump one.

your float level is not causing it to run rich. changing to a heavier spring on the floats is for road race or off road cars only. you just need to fix your timing, and possibly use a slightly smaller jet thats all, nothing else. but we can't tell without spark plug photos. .

i thought you said your pressure was at 7 psi. if you want to run it at the drags i would get those timing numbers, otherwise a turtle might beat you, lol. .

lol, that's brilliant. great idea.

hey, quit driving your car and get us those timing specs, lol. ok find an open stretch and floor if from a stop in first gear up to max rpm to see if they even open at all.

hello; ok your heat range is 5 which is fine. set the fuel regulator between 4.5 - 5.5 psi. do not trust your afr meter. if your timing is fine and it runs perfectly with no hesitation when acceleration or surging at steady throttle, its perfect, lol. a photo of a plug will help greatly. .

hello; what is your entire plug number? does your afr meter not have numbers on it? 5 psi is my recommendation for fuel pressure. plug your vacuum advance and leave it plugged for now. if your total timing is only 10, this is a big part of your problem. your idle timing should be around 10 and your total timing should be around 32 degrees with no dist vac. it should reach total timing at around 2800 rpm. the total timing must be checked with the dist vac disconnected. your 68 jets should not cause an excessive rich condition but they might be slightly rich. 66 is the smallest you should need in the front. don't worry about the float level in that case. that was an air leak problem you had anyway. .

your right rear line sounds like it has restricted flow but probably not enough to cause your problem. if you installed the master then pushed on the brake pedal before gragity bleeding, you may have air in the master. did you check to see if the safety valve is off center yet? did you adjust the brakes so they drag slightly on the drums?

...............

hello juit is dist vacuum connected to ported or manifold? is there vacuum at ported port at idle? what is total timing with vac hose disconnected? what is your spark plugs are heat range? can you post a photo of one of your plugs gfrom a 45 degree angle? set gas level in carb to just below the inspection hole while idling . reduce fuel pressure to 5. what are your jet sizes? . . they should be around 67 front 69 rear near sea level. power valve should be 6.5. air cleaner must be clean. .

thats odd, thanks for the info, i'll look again later when i get time.

just curious, who told you to torque those to 100 lbs? factory setting is 60 - 70.

ok great. just a suggestion, you might want to order the optional secondary spring kit with that is case you need or want to change the point they open at. also the sa carbs are jettied slightly lean so expect to do a little jetting. what does a "sharp" camshaft mean? if your engine revs to 5800 rpm, that carb will still work but it will be a little small imo. if you have probs with hard starting when hot you might consider buying a phenolic spacer also. .

You are correct, my apologies for overlooking this...I think. :sorcerer: Yup, xlnt point, so as has been mentioned, simply do a proper comparison and see what is best for ones particular set up, but as you and some others well know, by no means should one simply remove their vacuum from ported and shove it onto their manifold vac and assume its better just because they read it on the internet [and because it was signed by someone who claims they were a GM engineer] like many people do. This is one of the most incredibly irresponsible suggestions I have ever heard regarding timing. .

. The following post is from a CHEVY guy. The person named Cliff Ruggles that he is referring to is one of the most well known and respected GM carb authorities and rebuilders. "After reading and reading the debates and explanations of manifold versus ported vacuum to the vacuum advance unit, i have to say my stock 350 performs better using ported vacuum. It wasn't until recently reading Cliff Ruggles book "How to rebuild and modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors" that he gives his two cents, on page 49, about using either ported or manifold vaccum and pretty much leaves it up to the individual to decide. Interesting that he makes mention of two of the major points of manifold vacuum that the car runs cooler and gets better gas mileage that these are applicable if the car were running, in both cases, at idle constantly! whoa! He also mentions that there is no substantial proof that manifold vacuum does what "they say" and that he has tested both in hundreds of cars including his own and it seems that leans toward ported vacuum! From my understanding in car that needs help with idle, like a big cam or even one that spends a lot of time in commute traffic (idling), for example, and has problems with running hot, manifold vacuum would be probably a better bet, but i have to say for throttle response through the different rpms my stock 350 runs better with ported vacuum. It is interesting that on this learning about my engine and how it works that there are all kinds of scenarios and setups that effect things that no one way of doing things is THE way. For now ported vacuum is working for me. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375251" .

a press or vice is nice and best if one is readily available, but as mentioned, simply beat the bejesus out of it with the aforementioned "bfh" of you want. you can use a deep socket as suggested and put the socket on a 2 x 4 then twist the shaft so you can put the bolt head in the socket then whack it, whack it good... you cannot damage or bend that shaft. how did it strip? did you install the wrong nut or is the bolt c__p? the head says it's a grade 8 bolt but if its a grade 8 chinese bolt, it is really only around grade 5. .

This is one of the anomalies that can occasionally occur when using ported vacuum. I have in fact experienced this on a few occasions but the condition was minor and I took corrective measures to eliminate it. "Vacuum delay valves The vacuum signal from the carburetor spark port can momentarily spike when the throttle plates begin to move. Generally, this is more likely to occur when the throttle plates are closer to being closed (at or near idle). To prevent pinging problems caused by such a vacuum signal spike, Ford used vacuum delay valves inline between the carburetor spark port and the vacuum advance canister on many engines. The vacuum delay valve is just a metered orifice that slows down the transmission of the vacuum signal, effectively buffering out any spikes in the signal. You may need a vacuum delay valve if your engine has persistent problems with off-idle pinging, or momentary pinging at part-throttle acceleration, even when vacuum advance sensitivity is reduced to its minimum." .