barnett468

ok here ya go. http://www.mustang-village.com/ or https://plus.google.com/111215959135026750626/about?gl=us&hl=en

ok here ya go. http://www.mustang-village.com/ or https://plus.google.com/111215959135026750626/about?gl=us&hl=en

. Ok, here’s the thread I saw. The block is a 69 351 Windsor non roller. The kit is a retrofit kit for a non roller block. The owner noticed that the lifters were below the retaining bar when they were off the lobe. He sent emails to Comp along with this photo complaining about their "junk" kit and Comp said, "Well you must be using a roller block and you bought the wrong kit so you will need to buy our $500.00 link bar lifters and use them.". Long story short, the owner [moron] installed the links incorrectly. They go under the cage. He put them inside the loop on the end of the cage. The person [moron] at comp cams did not even notice this when he looked at the photo. Here's part of the installation instructions that come in the kit. "Step 2. With all the flats on the lifters in line, install one of the lifter guides over each cylinder’s pair of lifters in the valley. …the lifter guides should sit perfectly flat on the milled top surface of the lifter bore pairs. If they do not, stop and figure out why before proceeding. Failure to do so may result in significant engine damage. Step 4. Lower the lifter retainer (spider) in place..." Just another case of, you can’t believe everything you read or hear. . .

. Ok, here’s the thread I saw. The block is a 69 351 Windsor non roller. The kit is a retrofit kit for a non roller block. The owner noticed that the lifters were below the retaining bar when they were off the lobe. He sent emails to Comp along with this photo complaining about their "junk" kit and Comp said, "Well you must be using a roller block and you bought the wrong kit so you will need to buy our $500.00 link bar lifters and use them.". Long story short, the owner [moron] installed the links incorrectly. They go under the cage. He put them inside the loop on the end of the cage. The person [moron] at comp cams did not even notice this when he looked at the photo. Here's part of the installation instructions that come in the kit. "Step 2. With all the flats on the lifters in line, install one of the lifter guides over each cylinder’s pair of lifters in the valley. …the lifter guides should sit perfectly flat on the milled top surface of the lifter bore pairs. If they do not, stop and figure out why before proceeding. Failure to do so may result in significant engine damage. Step 4. Lower the lifter retainer (spider) in place..." Just another case of, you can’t believe everything you read or hear. . .

i would just buy the right one. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2b257-b.html

i would just buy the right one. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2b257-b.html

i use liquid white out it shows up great.

i use liquid white out it shows up great.

lol i hear ya.

lol i hear ya.

yeah i have run a zillion of their retrofit combos nothing wrong with them but i did accidentaly come across something last night regarding this and i think it was that somene used thee factory 5.0 cage on a non roller block so the lifter droppped below the link bar when it was off the lobe . ill try to find it again but i thought the question here was if link bar ifters can be used with a small base circle cam

yeah i have run a zillion of their retrofit combos nothing wrong with them but i did accidentaly come across something last night regarding this and i think it was that somene used thee factory 5.0 cage on a non roller block so the lifter droppped below the link bar when it was off the lobe . ill try to find it again but i thought the question here was if link bar ifters can be used with a small base circle cam

you cant do that. it was explained in your timing thread what you need to do before trying anything else..

you cant do that. it was explained in your timing thread what you need to do before trying anything else..

xlnt thought. i use the composite gears, they work on all cams and purportedly last longer than the bronze ones.

xlnt thought. i use the composite gears, they work on all cams and purportedly last longer than the bronze ones.

xlnt thought. i use the composite gears, they work on all cams and purportedly last longer than the bronze ones.

the retrofit lifters do work with the small base circle cam. thats what they were designed for.

it is possible to set the secondaries to open so late and slowly that there is no noticeable surge of power when they open. i get them so they just barely bog when they open then go to the next step stiffer spring. i actually like huge carbs with mechanical secondaries that have a huge bog when you open them and i can hear the engine loudly gasping for air, and it will eventually suddenly pick up rpm, lol. i don't set my cars up this way though.

sorry, i should have mentioned. i have a piece of dense foam with a slot in it and also a special clamp which is a bit hard to describe and i use either of these on the rod on the valve.

this will be one good test but others will be necessary to figure out whats going on. since by your description, your mechanical advance and vacuum advance are not working these things need to be corrected or you will continue to have probs. .

;possibly, i would test the booster with a vacuum gauge with pedal up and depressed.

the street avengers have some easily cured probs should they arise, but unless you are a tuning master, the demons are tough. actually, the quick fuel slayer and ss series are superior to the street avengers. .

A helpful video but here's 2 things he doesn't mention. 1. You never need to cut a bracket in half to remove it.Simply use an open ended air hack saw and cut between the window and glass. The glass will not break. 2. He is using the old glue as a guide to align the bracket “side to side” on the glass. This method will work if your old glue is still there and if the bracket is a snug fit in the window when you test fit it. If it rocks side to side you have problems because that bracket is tilted correctly, the top of the window will not be tilted properly so it can line up with the roof rail seal. If this happens, the bracket can be shimmed but only just a very small amount. If your old glue is gone and they have been silicone in you are extremely screwed. I clean the bracket then take a piece of paper around 2” long and 1 ½” wide and start folding it over lengthwise in around 1/4” inch increments. I flatten it out and shove it in the channel so one end sticks out of the channel on each side to act like a shim. If it too tight, I unfold a pleat or two, cut them off and try it again. If it’s too loose, I start over. I put one “shim” around 1” away from each end of the bracket. The shims force the bracket to properly center on the glass to a reasonable degree. I then use 3m 50/50 glue. It dries enough to use after 30 minutes. Do one bracket at a time because the working time is only a few minutes Once the glue is applied I install the bracket.

ok, retrofit cam, got ya. what heads do you have?