barnett468

Well if the price for changing the heater hoses is $340.00, they are high on something. $700.00 for parts and labor for the upper control arms once they already have the front springs off is laughable unless they are 24k gold plated.. $350.00 for parts and labor for a front sway bar, lol. $75.00 for parts and labor for an export brace and $40.00 for a monte carlo bar are actually way too low unless they are installing ones that only costs $10.00. $475.00 for a clock and labor, OMG!

What is your area? You didn't answer any of my questions, therefore I and others can't answer some of yours.

You likely need to rotate the oil pump drive shaft a little.

I'm glad you determined that the heads were at least part of the problem with the fitment of the intake, especially since the edelbrock fit the stock heads properly. It is quite possible that the weiand is not machined exactly to spec, causing it to sit higher than a correctly machined intake would thereby fitting your obviously incorrectly made heads, but you would need an unmodified original intake to determine this.

ok, then i would go with the 3.25 gears if you want a noticeable increase in acceleration but don't want to spin the engine fairly high on the freeway.

We did this on a customers car. He inherited grandmas rust bucket and grandmas money. We told him it would cost far less to buy another car that is rust free but he said "it wouldn't be grandmas car then", so we told him that the only parts we could likely save were the firewall and something else, so it wouldn't be "grandmas car" anyway after we fixed it because we couldn't reuse much, and he said, "I don't care what it costs, I want to fix grandmas car, so that is what we did.

I would probably sell my fenders for around $350.00 each and probably won't sell them separately.

Yeah, that's a bit of a bummer. I would hate to do all that work and still know there are several places that are rusty that will likely continue to rust. As neil young said, "rust never sleeps."..

Dynacorn has, or had, 2 versions of rear quarter panels. One was thicker than the other which may or mat not be a better option. some others here may know. As far as doors and front fenders go, if you need them you are better off finding good originals, but they can be a bit pricey because the same pars fit boss 302's and boss 429's. One problem is that not a single one of the aftermarket quarters or doors or door skins or fenders are made correctly, so the more aftermaket parts you use, the farther off the panel alignment will be. I have some nice front fenders if you want some.

"With doing the work myself I figure aside from my physical time I’m better off spending $3500 on sheet metal on my $600 car than buying a $7000 car and still spending a grand or so repairing rust." It will always have rust unless you have it dipped to remove the rust then dipped in protectant or primer to protect the bare metal. In addition, the panels will never completely line up correctly if you have to rplace quarters and door skins and fenders etc.

" So I got this from one of my best friends for $600." I think you need to find a new friend.

you will barely notice any difference between 2.79 and 3.00 gears and it will still have lame acceleration. what engine do you have and what mods have been done to it?

Well are those prices parts and labor? $340.00 for heater hoses? I would post exactly what radiator they are suggesting because it is likely pos small tube chinese one. I have a real 3 row large tube original style rad here that has a new us made core for sale.

if you like to drive 70 mph on the freeway for more than 30 minutes and do not plan to drag race anyone, you are far better off with 3.25 or 3.43. 3.50 is going to cause your engine to rev high on the highway plus it will burn a lot more gas.

wow, how odd, however, the stealth should fit exactly like the edelbrock intake, and if the stealth fits higher, then the edelbrock intake had to have been milled which is uncommon. the end seals have zero affect on intake manifold port height.

the ports are above the head, not just higher than the port on the head?.

When I am doing a concourse car and the seams are still good, I section in the piece I need then butt weld it, but this is a pita.

Here's one method. Remove the trunk lid to install the rubber. Use painters masking tape around every 8" to hold it in place. Tear 20 pieces of tape off and stick them around the edges of the trunk lid. Glue a short section at a time like around 12". Black glue is harder to see when it squeezes out beyond the gasket. Flammable contact cement can also be used.

You can do it with an adjustable pressure switch that operates within the range of pressure that is in the hydraulic lines but no telling just how well it would work until you do it.

that is not a steel shim gasket. it is a steel core laminated gasket, and although it is not the best choice, it should be fine.

ummm...exactly what type of gasket is it? In general, never loosen any bolt to retorque it, and it is not necessary to torque them again after break in.

Donations are cheerfully accepted thru paypal or bank wire transfer.

no it does not need an external box and it should have a steel gear. i will try to look at it today and get a photo.

It's not that simple.