barnett468

different springs from different mfg;s can vary slightly even if they are all the same rate . . also it depends on how heavy your car is . . a car with a 302 with aluminum heads and intake and no ac will need the same springs cut more than the same car with a 428 and ac so its best to install them as is first then cut a little at a time until you get there . . the springs will also settle a little so in my experience, it's best to set it around 5/8" higher than you want then get it aligned then drive it for a month. .

. hello 970fiz; . . just to clarify my previous comment for you i did not say you would absolutely, positively, bottom out with 620 springs, and to the contrary, i actually said 620's would be fine for general cruising.. shock damping has a huge affect on the ride and potential for bottoming . . if you have weak springs and shocks and your car bottoms, installing shocks with high compression damping will reduce the bottoming. setting up a suspension PROPERLY is a matter of balancing the shock damping to the spring rate and intended use. the most practical shocks to use for high perf apps or high spring rates are ones with individual damping adjustments, for comprression and rebound however, unfortunately, any quality shock with this feature is around $1,000.00 each. There is however dual adjustable shocks currently avail for around 800.00 for 4 i think are from china. if someone claims they do not bottom with a particular spring, the info is not very helpful unless you know the type of driving they do and if they hit pot holes or dips at intersections with no problems AND you know exactly what shock they use and the setting they have it on if it is adjustable, and you know if they have a 302 engine with aluminum heads and intake and no ac, or a 428 engine with ac etc... i have actually done hundreds of hours of suspension/shock telemetry testing for a major vehicle mfg on tracks and on an MTS machine, so i am fairly familiar with the affects of shock damping. .

its called vacuum metalizing . . look up on the internet who does it . . mr g's in texas did a lot but i have not heard good things recently.

hello; you would get more replies if you started your own thread because more people will see it there . . if you drive half way aggressive you will likely bottom out with the 620 if you lower it that much but it would be ok for general cruising for sure . . also anything more than 620 can feel pretty harsh over bumps but if you have the 620 i would try them and do the shelby drop first because it will lower the front slightly. .

ok so you have factory aluminum rims or your rims are for a smaller stud. the arp kit is what you want if it is hub centric. your wheels will not fall off.

hello; all steel wheels use an acorn/tapered nut . . most aftermarket aluminum rims use shouldered nuts. i have never seen a 1/2" spacer with studs . . this is likely because they are not thick enough to use studs in. try these guys for hub centric http://www.customadeonly.com/6950/1964-Ford-Mustang-Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacers-50mm-(2-Inch).html .

you should not run a resistor if you are using the original ignition wire . . if you have bypasses the orig wire then run an external resister. .

after reading all the posts i didnt see any mention of addding a shelby/export brace and ralye bar . . you may have thought of this but in case not if you plan to do any type of spirited driving i would add both of these items . . npd makes a nice deep well unit.

Whatever you do, if the arms do not come with, or require, special bolts that are splined or otherwise, I would use grade 8 fine thread bolts. I would also use thick grade 8 flat washers like these along with grade 8 lock washers and nuts.

P. Yes, I actually DO read what EVERYONE posts so I don't end up repeating info that has already been posted because I prefer not to be redundant. My reading comprehension ability is also at least high enough to know that your comment stating "you are dead wrong" is abrasive and unwarranted. All I did was offer my opinion to the op. There are more courteous and professional ways to disagree with it than the one you used. Thank you for the offer but I don't. Ok, I'm more than happy to, but are you now referring to the topic of me being "dead wrong" or having questionable reading comprehension abilities or the shelby drop? FYI - I did put in the time and effort try to view the video, however, unfortunately, I do not have the necessary plug ins to play it so I then tried to view it on my phone and it says the video is unavailable from cell phones. I am well aware of how a car handles with the arning drop because all my 65 and 66 shelby's had it along with a few other non shelby's I have owned or driven . . I have also done this mod at customers requests. .

if you are going to do suspension mods or be driving it harder than average you might consider adding the outer shock tower braces shown in this kit . . the inner plates are also helpful but might be a bit overkill for basic steet driving . . the outers are similar to what the boss and 428 cj cars have but they are 1 piece from ford.. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/towerkit/

w it is supposed to be exactly how i described it when it is finished which is exactly how the photo i posted is.

hello; sorry but i don't understand your point.

i would check online but i don't think so . you can buy chrome paint in a can and fake it that way. the only silver is on the side of the inner ring as i mentioned.

. you may have single chamber flowmasters . . see what you have . . the stainless mufflers and thrush turbos in this video are no too obnoxious. .

the entire bezel is "chromed" . . the exposed sides around the wood are matte black with a thin chrome line . . the inner and outer ring faces are chrome . . the inside sides next to the gauges is argent silver or dull aluminum kinda gray. photo shamelessly plagarized from the tachman site.

you may have single chamber flowmasters . . see what you have . . the stainless mufflers and thrusu turbos in this video are no too obnoxious.

. i am not dead wrong, and in fact, i am actually quite alive and well after driving over 1,000 different pre 74 mustangs in the last 42 years that did NOT have the shelby drop, lol . . probably around 90% of the people on every mustang forum DO NOT have the shelby drop and they all still seem to be alive and well. ford made around 8 million mustangs from 64 thru 73 and i have never seen any of them fly off the side of the road all by themselves . . if there was a serious design flaw in the orig suspension, there would have been a zillion accidents attributed to it and subsequent lawsuits and recalls . . i don't seem to remember any. if someone goes out and drives a nearly stock suspension mustang hard on a curvy mountain road, they will likely go off the edge . . this is because the cars were not designed to be used like this in stock, or near stock form, and also because the driver is an idiot that was driving beyond their ability or they were drunk etc. and should be in jail for doing this on a public highway and endangering other innocent peoples lives. there are two popular and famous roads that i know of out west that stupid people crash on all the time . . there are also stupid spectators that go out and watch these idiots every weekend knowing that at least one of them will probably crash and they can be the first to put it on youtube so they can be popular with their friends, lol. one of these videos shows a spectator filming the cars coming around a famous corner and going out of control and running over some huge bikers bike whom had also stopped to watch the festivities . . the huge biker seemed less than amused . . i laughed so hard watching it that tears were rolling down my face. here's just a few dozen of those videos for your enjoyment . . don't worry, if you finish these there will be plenty moire next week . . i also kinda like the one where the bike crashes then catches on fire. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mulholland+crash+compilation cars that handle good can be very dangerous because they give people a false sense of security and entice/encourage them to drive them harder than their abilities can handle. Actually i think these people are the ones that are "dead wrong", however, i don't think they had the shelby drop . . Good handling cars do NOT make their drivers good drivers. "A brutal Ferrari F430 accident happened last night when a Ferrari F430 lost control on the E42 motorway at high speed. The Ferrari slammed into a lamp post, hit the central reservation and split into two pieces up to the cockpit. It’s one of the worst accidents we’ve seen recently and unfortunately, both driver and passenger died." . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . This Mustang had the shelby/arning drop. . . . . . . . . . . .

well exactly how will you be driving the car? unless you are driving it at least moderately hard there is no point to dropping it . . there are thousands of cars on the road with minor suspension upgrades that handle decent without the drop. .

xlnt question, don't remember eactly but around 1/4" on reach end . . its certainly not 3/4" anyway . . the bottom of the door at the rocker has less bow.

normal . . if they were flat there would be a problem

. A 408 is not a stock stroke for a 351. The increased stroke generates more heat. Also, if the engine has been bored out it is no longer the stock bore. Boring a cylinder reduces its cooling capacity. Also, the more hp an engine makes the more heat it makes. You also aren't likely to hear electric fans over a 400 hp plus engine. .

also plug the vac adv and set the initial timing to around 10 and curve the distributor so you have around 32 btdc at around 3000 rpm if you currently have less . . it will have more hp, tq and mileage and will also run cooler. .

of you run windsor heads and you want more hp and have a cam, you need to port the bejesus out of the exhaust.

if you are not doing a concours car i would install a single port vac adv.