barnett468

oki my friend has the repo ones that work . . you can contact him at the link below . . his name is "Rhomie" like Rome ee, lol. http://mustangshopofconcord.com/ .

i looked and don't have anymore origs . . what year is it? heres nos 1969 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390979791615?item=390979791615&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466 heres a 70-73 but it looks a bit dried up http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231405653933?item=231405653933&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466 heres a good 70-73 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331208753842?item=331208753842&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

i do mca concours cars so i am picky and unless the ford tooling panels have improved, they are hard as a rock and they are very dark gray/black which looks like c__p . . virginia mustang panels are soft like orig and are dark black and are indiscernible from orig. buy perfect orig seat foam made by american cushion industries sold thru npd . . all other foam is total c__p. buy seat covers from tmi but they use chinese vinyl that is c__p and it is gray black instead of black so the color looks like c__p but it will match the c__p gray/black of the other brands of door panels, however, their sewing is exceptional so all the lines are straight . . distinctive can't sew a straight line if their life depended on it anymore and the binding they use is bigger than orig so it looks like c__p too . . buy original material from sms upholstery and send it to tmi and you end up with concourse perfect seat covers. there is only one place that makes carpet and it is ACC and it is c__ p because it is not nearly as dense [loops per inch] as the original or as distinctive carpet used to be but unfortunately distinctively no longer sells carpet for some unknown reason [i guess they are going down the tiolet] so you are stuck with the ACC c__p. a complete set of perfect orig interior panels with the trap door for fold down seat might be $1500.00 . . if you only need the piece next to the seat, buy the fiberglass ones and spend 3 hours thinning down critical places so they fit. use a $600.00 ford tooling dash. if you need the dash cluster or clock panel i may have them. you need the door cup brackets, door cups, rubber door cup inserts, flat head number 8 phillips sheet metal screw, door panel stainless and lites and wiring and plastic shim behind the window crank handle and the aluminum cover for the handle and speaker grills if you want or need them. i spray the interior plastic and metal panels with Wurth brand semi gloss black lacquer or sems tuxedo black or similar. the bottom line as far as interior color goes is that you can have dark gray/black interior, which is not the original color and looks like c__p imo, or you can spend around $400.00 more and have it look bitchen/cool, ie rad, gnarly, gnarl, "bad" etc. or whatever the current vernacular might be for an object that is extremely aesthetically pleasing. .

ill let you know the price later today when find out.

most repos are inconsistent and marginal . . i ony use originals . . let me know if you want a new old stock orig.

if you use the stock linkage i would not use a diaphragm pressure plate . . i would use an orig style mcleod. .

yes if a ittle lope as all youre after you could save a lot of inme abd money by simply removing 2 spark plug wires plus it would reduce the performance to a safer level.

wow, ok, you must use full length to get the most out of your engine . . they must be at least 1 3/4" tubes and a maximum of 1 7/8 tubes . . the opening must be as large as the export opening in the head is. run around 20" of 3" off of the collector with a long taper down to 2 5/8 . . 2 1/2" is the minimum size pipe . . 3" can be used but you will loose a little hp with it . . bigger is not always bigger. run a X pipe if possible but either way you should have some sort of crossover tube. look at dynomax mufflers. the stainless ones have enough flow and won't drone or be quite as loud as some of their others. video sound demo .

the 268h is too big for this app plus a dual pattern is needed on stock heads due to the poor exhaust to intake flow ratio. .

the ford racing cam is actually "bigger" than the comp xe256h and will have less bottom end power and less compression . . i wouldn't use that unless the gears were at least 3.23.

No. the boss cars had 15 x 7" rims with F70 tires . . the front fenders were rolled so the tires wouldn't catch the fender lip. 245 x 60 - 15 tires are 26.9 wide x 9.7 tread and on 15 x 7 4.25 backspace rims, they will hit the fender lips if they are not rolled. .

you will not get any "lope" until you get up to an xe267h cam and that us way too big. if you want more sound and your muffles are quiet then buy thrush super turbos. you will need springs with the cams below. you should also install screw in rocker studs or the stock press in ones will possibly pull up. comp cams xe256h and definitely needs screw in studs. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=798&sb=0 or this with 3.00 - 3.23 gears http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=938&sb=0 lifters http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99280-16/overview/make/ford high quality timing set http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1135/overview/make/ford edelbrock performer non rpm intake. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2121/overview/make/ford slayer 600 cfm http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-sl-600-vsf/overview/ spacer to reduce vapor lock plus hss pcv fitting. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/spacer_carburetor_to_intake_manifold_repro-107444-0.html you'll need something like these http://www.cjponyparts.com/valve-cover-cast-aluminum-with-polished-fins-cobra-powered-by-ford-pair-289-302-351w/p/VC10/ and one of these . . call to see what the difference is http://www.cal-mustang.com/COBRA-OVAL-AIR-CLEANER-4V-DUAL-CARB-OPEN-LETTER-NATURAL-FINISH-P29959C978.aspx http://www.cal-mustang.com/COBRA-SINGLE-4V-OVAL-AIR-CLEANER---OPEN-LETTER-NATURAL-FINISH-P9652C5959.aspx ho po style . . it will go with the shiny carb and polished fins on the valve covers. http://www.amazon.com/1965-68-Mustang-Hi-Po-Cleaner-Assembly/dp/B0083LC4T8 .

how much hp do you have? do you want long tubes in particular? hedman elite shorty 1 5/8" at summit. .

post your compression, head specs, intake, exhaust type, rear gears, trans. what exactly do you wan it to do? freeway flier? lite to lite drag car? something inbetween? mild, moderate or rough idle?

that cam will have as much lope as a wet noodle . . does he have stock intake and exhaust? buy this one. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=798&sb=0 .

the mechanical regulators are all made in china now many 50 year old originals still work. maybe they tell you not to mess with the caps because they don't want you to know that its really not a dry cell. .

buy a good electronic regulater and switch the tops . . it will look the same. see if your red battery caps UNSCREW . . IF THEY DO, LOOK INSIDE . . IF YOU SEE WATER OR PLATES IT IS NOT A DRY CELL. .

what was the final timing curve? it should not be hard to start with only 12 degrees so its the carb . . you did not have a problem starting with the other carb when hot . . set your gas level to just below the inspection holes when idling . . this should help . . if the carb is getting hot you may need a phenolic spacer. never saw them but those carbs have a flat spot because they are not jetted properly. . it's a marketing trick, lol. i bet your other carb did not do that. they may do something but they also obstruct the air flow in the carb which is not good. ...

hey juit, what springs did you end up with and what was your timing curve with them. there is one lite ford spring and one heavy ford spring which is loose on one end. which of the ford springs did you replace? what is your final timing curve? .

hey juit, what springs did you end up with and what was your timing curve with them. there is one lite ford spring and one heavy ford spring which is loose on one end. which of the ford springs did you replace? what is your final timing curve? .

. Unfortunately the "Ready to run" MSD distributors still need the timing curve set to your specific engine if you want to get optimum performance from it. From MSD "Different advance springs and stop bushings are supplied so you can easily tune a curve to match your needs. Plus, there is a vacuum advance canister to increase economy on long drives." .

. Unfortunately the "Ready to run" MSD distributors still need the timing curve set to your specific engine if you want to get optimum performance from it. From MSD "Different advance springs and stop bushings are supplied so you can easily tune a curve to match your needs. Plus, there is a vacuum advance canister to increase economy on long drives." .

ok well i'm out of ideas, its your wallet, lol. you don't need an msd box for your app and you have a decent coil so...

ok well i'm out of ideas, its your wallet, lol. you don't need an msd box for your app and you have a decent coil so...

why would you want to put a pertronix on a duraspark distributor. i would consider tossing the duraspark on ehay and just run a stock distributor . . i can tell you how to curve the advance if you know how to use a timing lite and set points, otherwise you can get an msd or accell distributor but you still need to curve the advance. also, depending on how your duraspark is connected, it may retard the timing when you start it which is unnecessary in your case. the msd is $220.0 or more but it is shiny. the pertronix for a stock distributor is $100.00 the correct vacuum advance can for a stock distributor is 25.00. the springs to recurve the stock distributor are 6.00. a stock "rebuilt" distributor is around $60.00. .