barnett468

Very little difference between original and repo linkage but original is best but i wouldn't pay twice the money for it. If you have a pressure plate with a high spring rate the z bar will flex and may also bend so it should be reinforced. Both the centerforce and mcleod dual friction discs are xlnt.

It looks like there is lettering on the bottom of the mufflers, if so, what are the letters?

Why didn't you also check the gas level in the carb?

Headers will have zero affect on "drone", but they will add a LOT of additional noise to the cabin. "Resonators will not eliminate drone in a car that has chambered mufflers like typical flowmasters, which are the ultimate in drone, but it will reduce it if they are the correct size etc.

what is your open valve spring pressure?

I usually run it for a least 100 miles, but in your case, you should change it right away because of all the filings from the destroyed can lode and lifter that were inside the engine. I don't run synthetic in a new engine for at least 300 miles. I would also get a magnetic drain plug. In addition to the maknetic drain plug, you can also stick a fairly large magnet to the bottom of the ban near the drain plug.

1. This is why I said I would forget what the mechanic said and check the carb and timing myself. Put some paper towels under the right front side of the carb. Start the car then turn it off. Remove the screw on the side of the float bowl. If gas dribbles out onto the paper towels, the gas/float level is too high. Set the gas level so it is just a little below the inspection hole as soon as you turn the engine off. The screw should be installed when the engine is running. 2. Not likely

Your accelerator pump diaphragm may be dried up or needs adjusting if there is free[play in it.

I would forget what the mechanic said and check the timing and carb yourself. A mechanic is rarely a tuner.

you need to determine how much additional power you want first before people can make useful suggestions. you also need to tell them your gear ratio, trans type, tire size. elevation where the car will be driven most of the time, and whether you want a lite to lite speedster or a freeway flier etc. as far as wanting a fairly smooth idle goes, in general, the wider the cams lsa, the smoother an engine will idle. from what little you posted so far, i would say to start with a cam that has at least 112 lsa instead of 110. boring the block to make more power is pointless because it wont give you much but the more you bore it, the more load it will put on the cooling system because the cylinder walls will be thinner. most blacks are hard to cool at .040" over and most are junk at .060 because they simply can't be cooled. increasing compression does little to increase hp. you mat get around 3% more hp thru the entire rpm range for each additional point of compression if all else remains the same. in general, the bigger the cam, the less bottom end the engine will have, so to regain some low end performance, numerically higher gears need to be installed which makes the engine rn at higher rpm all the time. most mild to moderate 351 street engines run 10.0 compression at the most, with around 9.5 being the least. you can run around 1/2 to almost 1.0 point higher compression with aluminum heads than you can with iron heads and have the same level of detonation potential. stepped headers do not always make the most power, and for a mild build, hedman elites are by far the best bang for the buck and an excellent choice. afr 205 heads are way to big for a nearly stock 351, and a complete waste of on one. you would be far better off with nothing bigger than 185's. these heads would be fine for a mild build with a non roller cam, and the pair costs less than just one afr head. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5023/overview/make/ford .

Exactly what are you trying to accomplish?

See if this 69/70 boss 302 bracket will work for your app. https://www.cjponyparts.com/boss-302-throttle-cable-bracket-1969-1970/p/TCB2/ . . .

1. The front frame is probably pushed over to the side some them. 2. Holy crap!

Looking at the frame and your drawing from the top you can use the front leaf spring mounts and upper or lower front suspension mounting points, then use a plumb bob to mark all four of their positions on the floor, then draw a line from side to side thru both the front and rear suspension points, then from the center of one of those lines lines draw a line to the other end of the car that is 90 degrees to that starting line. This 90 degree line should intersect the other suspension line in the middle of it. If it does not, then the car is dog tracking.

Cj pony parts clutch equalizer bushing. There is one on each end. 4.95 each.

to get the cotter pin in when also using the potatoe chip washer you can install the flat washer then squeeze on the outsde of the flat washer and the outside of the rod etc then install the cotter pin.

Again the cj rad probably has small tubes and if it does it is not worth using so you can not compare prices to that rad. You need to co.pare them to us rads prices. I would sell the 3 row for 250.00 and the 4 row for 350.00. Coolcraft wants around 500.00 for a 4 row like mine.

I looked at my rads today and I have two 24" wide non cross flows if you are interested in one. 1. Used original in mint condition 3 rows deep and 42 rows across = 126 rows. 2. Original tanks with new core 4 rows deep and 43 rows across = 129 rows. This is basically the same as the rad in the link below that costs $570.00 without shipping. http://www.coolcraft.com/ford-mustang-1968-69-v8-289-302-351-radiator.html

The clutch rod needs to be as parallell as possible to the fork or it can break. You can bend the lower arm on the z bar if you need if your rod is not parallell. I don't know what you mean by "nuts straddling" but the nuts in the photo are in the correct location. The potatoe chip washers are unnecessary. They simply keep the rods from rattling but if you have them then reuse them. There must be a flat washer behind the cotter pins otherwise the cotter pin can get cut in half and the rod can fall out. I would do the following. 1. remove the z bar and see if you need a new plastic bushings and inspect the inside of the z bar for wear. 2. you must have 2 bolts in the z bar mounting bracket that mounts to the frame. 3. check to see if the clutch pedal bushing is loose or if the pedal is hard to push with the z bar off. 4. Your z bar is not 90 degrees to the clutch rod so i would fix that if possible but it is not imperative.

looks like the plastic bushing on your z bar pivot may be bad but hard to tell.

ok i will get photos. the high efficiency core has a few more tubes in it because they space them closer together than a stock rad so they cool better. we had one of the biggest mustang shops on the west coast but my partner moved back east and closed it so i now have a 50 foot trailer full of mustang parts left over.

the stock copper brass 3 rows that are being sold by mustang shops usually have tubes that are smaller than the original, so i wouldn't use them. the best aluminum rad that looks fairly similar to original is made by us radiator and can be bought thru cool craft in arizona. i happen to have two copper brass 3 row rads with the big tubes if you are interested. one of them has a new high efficiency core.

the best stock type clutch disc is factory ford or a "street" disc from centerforce . the mcleod street discs are junk.

Does your clutch take a considerable amount of force to depress. The stock clutch on a 6 cylinder can be depressed to the floor by hand if one is moderately strong. Unless your left leg is unusually weak compared to ost people, the clutch should not feel hard to depress to you, and if it does, than it is probably considerably stiffer than stock, which would be highly unusual for a 6 cylinder. It might help to determine what brand of pressure plate it currently has. You should also check all the pivot points including the upper clutch pedal pivot to see if they move freely or not because worn or dry pivots can make a clutch feel stiffer than it otherwise would. As far as replacing it just because the bell housing is off, it would be a good idea to at least inspect it to see if it needs to be replaced, but obviously if it does, it would be far better to already have one. If you buy one you can probably return it anyway if you don't use it. As far as the pedal being hard to depress, if it is due to a stiffer than stock pressure plate and you want a lighter feel, you can get a pressure plate that is close to stock pressure, which is around 1550 lbs.

Yeah, wow. ok, xlnt work, hopefully ridgerunner and others here will have some good ideas for you, but your question is actually a bit complicated and the issue can be addressed different ways with different results, but hopefully this will help you some. Nobody has the production tolerances for the dimensions you are asking about, however, 8 mm will not be noticed in your application. It is more relevant in a 200 mph indy car etc. I'm guessing you checked several points for center line as well. A better point to measure to see if the suspension is level is the height of the front leaf spring mounts and the height of the upper control arm mounts, because they did not use the cars floor as the guide to build the car around, and a "frame" can be "square" but the cars floor may not be square to the frame, and it is more important to have the suspension square to itself front to rear than to the floor. There are adjustable rear leaf spring mounts that use a "cam" to vary the height with. These have at least 1/2" of adjustment to them, so instead of trying to relocate part of the frame/shock towers etc, you could use these instead to compensate for the difference. If you use lowering springs on the front, you could also try to use those to level the car with by cutting one more than the other, but this is really impractical for such a small difference for several reasons, and it would simply be far easier to do with different height rear leaf spring mounts. One thing to keep in mind is the height of the top of the fender aprons. These should also be "square" to the rest of the car as well, or more importantly, the same distance in height from side to side using the lower edge of the rockers as your level. If they are not, you may end up having to put shims between the fender and top of the apron if one side is lower than the other etc. You may have to do this anyway for several reason, but the less shims the better. In addition, one "upgrade" I would do is to weld a thick washer around the upper rear shock mount hoes because this is a weak area on these cars and can crack, especially after 100k miles of use and/or if stiffer than factory shocks are used etc.