barnett468

How much are you asking and what condition are they in?

There are no original door skins left left that i know of, so you would have to use the crappy aftermarket skins which may cost as much as nice used original doors by the time you have the skins installed.

As I mentioned in my previous post, the cost is around the same, plus the 418 kits are plentiful enough. 393 stroker kit $1450.00 https://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-393W-Flat-Top-4-0cc-Street-Fighter-Kit-p/10670-sf-f393w.htm 408 stroker kit $1450.00 https://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-408W-Flat-Top-4-0cc-Street-Fighter-Kit-p/12357-sf-f408w.htm 418 stroker kit $1450.00 https://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-418W-Flat-Top-4-0cc-Street-Fighter-Kit-p/10672-sf-f418w.htm

ummm....don't you have a roof to fix....again!

Yes, that was my post. I will try to find it. The other thing was the cj oil filter adapter and matching the block to the oil pump hole if needed. The rocker restrictor is a holley main jet. 68 thru 70 is fine.

In case you did not know, there are several simple improvements you can do to the oiling system on those to improve the oiling, and they should be done if you build a high perf engine.

A 418 kit costs around the same as a smaller kit but requires that the bottoms of the cylinders be notched around 3/16" which only takes around 10 minutes to do with a hand held dye grinder.

Might ss well go to 418.

if you want it to be concours, you must buy used original sheet metal with the correct date codes, or cut the date codes out of yours if it is original and weld it into the original replacement parts, otherwise, the dynacorn crap is the only choice i know of. you should also save the spot welds and butt weld the new metal in where possible unless you can have it spot welded where necessary.

You do not "need" a relay with stock lights. You need to find the cause of the problem and fix that first before installing any relays etc, otherwise, it can reappear at any time. Your lights went out due to a bad/worn part or loose connection etc, a relay will not repair a bad/worn part or a loose connection.

yes, and if that does nothing try pushing the headlight switch in and out.

If you build a stroker, you need good aftermarket heads, and a roller cam and roller lifters. As mentioned, the crank, rods, and pistons are needed, so unless you have the other parts mentioned, you will need them also. In short, if you have a stock engine and want a stroker, you can only reuse the block unless you already have a good oil pump or timing set etc.

Yes there are, but we are nearing extinction.

Why not make a 418

yeah, ok, you are screwed and may have a bit of a fight on your hands to get him to fix it because he may not be able to without installing a new top. i have been down this road, many, many, many, times before. no, the rubber seals should barely touch each other when the top is closed, but many repo seals are made incorrectly.

if it is a double textured top and it was installed when it was at least around 70 degrees out, it ain't gonna stretch much. here's the deal, the tops closed fine when these cars were new. your guy does what most these idiots do, which is make them super tight so there as few wrinkles as possible so the customer doesn't whine about them. i have been doing this for 45 years, and have never, ever, seen a double textured top stretch much at all, and in fact, after a certain time, the older a top gets, the more it shrinks. if one person can not close the top by sitting in the drivers seat and pulling down on it with just light to moderate force when it is around 70 degrees out or above, it is installed incorrectly, its that simple. i have had the idiots install them so tight that it literally broke the bracket when i clamped it down. when you go to a car show, you put the top down, so if it has a minor wrinkle here or there, who cares, because nobody will see it. the same thing applies when you are driving the car.

could be the headlight switch or the headlight dimmer switch on the floor . if it happens again try depressing the dimmer switch just a tiny bit. if nothing happens try dimming the lights for a few seconds a few times. .

you probably need to take it to a qualified top installer to determine exactly why it is tight. there are around 8 bolts at the base of the rear window and insides of the quarter panels that can be loosened to allow it to come forward, however, this also allows the rear frame that meets the rear edge of the rear side window to come forward, so it may then hit the window, and if your windows are properly lined up, you need to move the header forward instead. the single biggest problem i have seen with installers is that the idiots make the tops to tight so they are nearly impossible to close, then they lie to you by saying that "it will stretch out soon so it will be easier to latch" which is a joke. i have had to undo the top at the front on some cars to move the header forward but if there is not enough material left on the top to still work properly, and this is the piece you need to move to make it fit properly, you need another new top, it's that simple. if you paid a shop to install it, take it back and tell them to fix it, but i bet they can't fix it properly. you either have to move one or both of the weatherstrip pieces, or cut the wrong one to the right length if you cant move them enough but it may be best to remove one first until the top fits, then fit them on correctly.

No, I didn't work at an oil company, I just have an oil fetish...

yes, unless you start to worry about the hole in the case this shaft goes thru that gets ovaled out over the years which can cause it to leak oil... ...are you having fun yet?

yes. the valve body has to be removed to replace it, and the correct one for a mustang is ultra rare unless they started reproducing them.

You have the correct mustang shift lever that is built into the trans?

you need the correct shift arm which is not reproduced as far as i know so you will need to buy one from another mustang or possibly from a floor shift torino or fairlane etc.

You are probably safest running oil with 1400 - 1700 parts zddp or zddb because this will provide more scuff resistance than oil with less, if all other aspects of the oil remain the same . Oil with 1800 parts of zddp or more can cause damage over time from the phosphorous attacking the metal. Racing engines can use 2800 parts of zddp because they get rebuilt frequently. After around 1800 parts of zddp, more zddp will not increase scuff resistance, the additional zddp is just there to insure the amount of zddp does not fall too low in a race car because zddp gets depleted as the engine is running, meaning, the zddp level does not remain the same the entire time the oil is in the engine, it slowly goes down.

A diaphragm pressure plate is not an "upgrade, and is not designed to work "properly" with your linkage but they do work with it but the upper spring under the dash should be removed if you use a diaphragm pressure plate. I use stock (3 finger type) type pressure plates from mcleod, and probably have some in my parts. I have not had a problem mixing repo linkage parts with original parts in 45 years.