barnett468

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Or perhaps you need dual fans. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

yes you are wrong, lol . . even though your chinese fan does cause more load on the alternator which in turn takes more hp to turn the puny 1 5 amps you fan requires to pull 25 cfm of air, it is negligible by comparison. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . This fan does not require any batteries at all. . . . . . . . . . . . .

yes you are wrong, lol . . even though your chinese fan does cause more load on the alternator which in turn takes more hp to turn the puny 1 5 amps you fan requires to pull 25 cfm of air, it is negligible by comparison. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . This fan does not require any batteries at all. . . . . . . . . . . . .

ok, i would lower the floats slightly. make sure both fuel mix screws have an affect on idle, if they do not then maube an air jet is plugged . . spray brakes cleaner in all the tiny holes in the throat of the carb using the long nozzle pressed against the jets. wiggle your throttle shaft . . if it wiggles much it could cause problems. remove throttle rod. make sure it will pull forward at least 1/8" past the mounting hole. make sure throttle closes to proper position. open throttle all the way . . try to install the throttle rod . . if the rod is too long your throttle has not been opening all the way . . fix it all. make sure the choke is fully off. do the timing test and post results.

ok, i would lower the floats slightly. make sure both fuel mix screws have an affect on idle, if they do not then maube an air jet is plugged . . spray brakes cleaner in all the tiny holes in the throat of the carb using the long nozzle pressed against the jets. wiggle your throttle shaft . . if it wiggles much it could cause problems. remove throttle rod. make sure it will pull forward at least 1/8" past the mounting hole. make sure throttle closes to proper position. open throttle all the way . . try to install the throttle rod . . if the rod is too long your throttle has not been opening all the way . . fix it all. make sure the choke is fully off. do the timing test and post results.

ok, i would lower the floats slightly. make sure both fuel mix screws have an affect on idle, if they do not then maube an air jet is plugged . . spray brakes cleaner in all the tiny holes in the throat of the carb using the long nozzle pressed against the jets. wiggle your throttle shaft . . if it wiggles much it could cause problems. remove throttle rod. make sure it will pull forward at least 1/8" past the mounting hole. make sure throttle closes to proper position. open throttle all the way . . try to install the throttle rod . . if the rod is too long your throttle has not been opening all the way . . fix it all. make sure the choke is fully off. do the timing test and post results.

nope, although they are certainly xlnt shocks, dual adjustable ones are but they start at $200.00 each and run to around $1,000.00 each.

there is no rebuild kit just buy what you need . . a rebuilt compressor with a warranty is around $120.00 . . if it does not say r134 on it you can buy an r134 compatible seal kit for $15.00 or as mentioned, but a rotary kit from classic air in florida use green ac o rings for r134. i think someone mentioned an r134 condenser . . i think they make one that fits but you can use your orig if its good . . the r134 ones cool the freon slightly better.

lol, i knew it...

your spring rate is higher than a non gt so this is why you could get away with it . . my other guess is that you do not have cheap $10.00 shocks on it . . high damping shocks reduce the potential for bottoming. .

lol. yup . . most of the originals got thrown in the trash when the cars were worth $4,000.00 . . well, now a concourse boss 302 is $100,00.00 and a boss 429 is is over $200,00.00 so they are more than happy to pay $600.00 and more for one. .

its sometimes better to get the 1" and cut it but if you get a 2" and its too low you can buy thicker spring pads so its easily adjustable fortunately. .

ok, you CAN cut lowering springs because they are stiffer than std springs . . if you cut std springs your front end will bottom out. the lightest 1" lowering spring is around 480 lbs . . your stock spring is around 220 . . it will be noticeably firmer with the 480 springs but will not ride like a rock . . you need good shocks to keep the front from bouncing with stiffer springs . . after you install .lowering springs in the front the rear will feel even softer. .

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determine how stiff you want it to ride. buy reverse hey springs in the weight you want detroit spring can also make them . . drive it for a few days because they well settle. you can NOT cut stock springs, you need lowering springs. .

thie web on the right is te extra one he is referring to . . it is used on cobra jet blocks also . . standard bore blocks are HARD to find . . for $20.00 its hard to pass up . . you can wash it then spray it down with wd40 . . then put it on a transmission drip pan and put mix type f tranny 50/50 with acetone and dribble a little around the lifters a few times a day for 3 days . . you can also use kroil oil . . then try to gently tap them out . . if they do not come out you can remove the internals and spray freeze off inside of them then try again while they are still cold . . once they are out, run a brake cylinder hone and wd40 on them for just 2 seconds . . clean the lifter bores . . it they have tiny pits, they are fine . . if they are wasted you can toss the block and you are out $25.00 or buy the lifter bore kit and repair them yourself for around $250.00 after the block is cleaned. next, get the block magged for cracks . . if it is good then have it dipped in caustic soda . . this will remove all the rust in the lifter bore pits and inside the block on the cylinder walls etc.. the main caps you need are 427 4 bolt caps . . you will only use 2 bolts. . .

. ok, the blocks are the same for 360 and 390. it may need the lifter bores relined which will be around $400.00 . . it needs new crank caps which might be around $250 . . then you need to bore the crank holes to fit the caps which is around $200.00 now you gave a good block and just need to buy a crank, rods etc.. then as i mentioned, at least $10,000.00 later, you have your big block car. here's your 432 ci stroker kit $1.580.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-158124080/overview/make/ford here's your heads $1620.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60069/overview/make/ford heres a cam $135.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-33-250-4/overview/make/ford 2 rocker arms $500 - $800.00 intake $385.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7105/overview/make/ford crank damper $200.00 . .

sorry but i dont understand exactly what you want to know . . the 69 shifter is a total pos . . most people installed a hurst and threw the orig in the trash .. . the only reason to use one is for mca concours shows.

there is no such thing as a mustang 390 block code . . your car is not a 390 so getting a correct date code is a total and conmplete waste of time and money . . you do not need coil ovver shocks for a 390 upgrade who told you that you did?. . coil overs are a cosmetic upgrade only . . they dont change the suspension geometry one tiny bit . . if you want a lot of power buy a 428 from a t bird . . buy cj heads or aluminum heads . . be prepared to speend at least 10000.00 dollars and to loose a lot of money if you sell it .

+10 Here's a quote from just 1 of many "happy" Speedisaster differential owners. "definatly procomp / sydney speed supplies & numerus ebay sellers, stay right away its all junk its all copied and its not made of what they say it is , i bought one of there torque worm lsd it looks like its was made in a shed with a grinder all internal gears have grinder marks , its just sitting on the shelf and will never be used, also the hex allen key bolts that hold it all together are not hardened they striped the centre out when i had it check out by a diif shop (Driveline Industries, Carrum Downs VIC 03 9785 1433), total junk and waist of my money, i will never buy anything cheap again, same old story you only get what you pay for." .

i did not see this because i read your post on my phone . . yes fix this then do all the tests i suggested no matter how it runs. you must plug the breather to the carb if it goes to a vacuum port . . if it goes to the air cleaner it is fine. .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . You know yours are the only molecules for me Malvie! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Don't even think about it! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I think I'd like to study those molecules. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .