mikee

Nice pair.

Might as well have a  polished MTF tank  :)

Installed our cold air and the engine cover, did both pieces in matte clear.

you and me both forgot about this build for a while.  
These pedals are just sn95 pedal pads so there are a few options - I ended up going with the cobra snake version as I felt the oem version looked a bit dated.  Not my ideal choice, but works well enough given what's under the hood.  
 

Clean all the related parts.

Not directly Mustang related but it stores a mustang so there's that. 
I've been wanting to have a nice finished garage ever since we built out house 15 years ago so I finally got off my duff and did it. All new paint top to bottom, new cabinets, big screen TV, and professionally done floors. Couldn't be happier with the results.
Now I make my wife take her shoes off when she come in it from the house 
Mustang related I've installed an electric trunk release, retrosound stereo, chased squeaks and rattles, had the exhaust reworked.... Been a product season for me.
 

Bedliner is done. 

Morgan,
I bought the kits from CPP. The kit came with the calipers and brackets, and rotors (I upgraded to slotted), and flex hose with mounting brackets. It also comes with a generic e-brake cable kit, similar to a Lokar kit used by Wilwood. The e-brake kit was a straight forward install using the original front cable to pedal, tensioner location and hook, and rear mounting bracket locations. The stock cable connector is a bit short for the kit cable terminators but works.  I may buy a stock cougar cable connector which is a few inches longer and will accommodate the terminators better. The kit comes with a nice cable conduit whihc you only need about two feet of it on the left and right for the rear section after to bracket to the calipers. I decide to put the rest to good use over the cable as it runs under the floor pan. See pic below....
Yes, out of the box the overhead console has two on/off map light buttons on it and is designed to only work with constant unswitched 12 volt power just like the hood and trunk lights (using the stock green / yellow line wire). I rewired the console to also work with the interior courtesy lights when using the door jamb and headlight switches, like the stock sail panel lights (uses the stock blue / black line wire). This required adding a couple of one-way diodes to prevent the constant unswitched circuit from back-feeding 12v to the interior switched light circuit. Now the lights work from the on/off buttons or when opening the door or turning the headlight switch.
After all that, I decide to go a step further and replace the brushed aluminum with wood grain to match the rest of the 70 deluxe interior wood grain AND then I added a red accent strip around it to match the vermilion headliner and interior color. The accent strip also illuminates red when the interior courtesy lights are on. I thought about making it light with the dash lights but that would require more wiring... maybe I do it not sure yet.
 


 

Taking advantage of being at home. Decided to tidy up the rear end. I still have to replace the brake lines when I have some tube. This has been bugging me since I got it. With the new rubbers all the squeaks in the rear are finally gone.

I reinforced the cross brace which is an old Ford trick for Trans Am Racing. While I was underneath I did some cleaning and detailing. 

I bought this car last year and I need help to understand if there is value to it remaining un-restored and original or if I would be better off to just begin a slow restoration and do some updates to it.  I'm looking at it from an investment standpoint as opposed to my forever car.  I honestly feel bad about driving it because I don't want to put any more miles on it (~93K mi) and minimize further wear and tear.

The seller was the original owner and he said it was rear-ended in 1971 and repaired by the dealership (subcontracted to a local body shop).  They used rivets where spot welds would have been used.  Other than the rivets, the sheet metal work for the repair seemed pretty good but a light coat of bondo on the rear quarter shoulders has cracked over time.  There are rust spots on the fender aprons and one in the passenger rear wheel well, but other than that, it is pretty solid.  I sprayed those areas with Skyco Ospho to hopefully stop further deterioration since I took the pictures below.  Any recommendations other than just sort of tapping the rust out of those areas and cutting metal for repair?  I wondered if a small amount of aluminized filler would smooth it out nicely if it is not rusted through? 
Any comments, good, bad, or ugly are welcome.  I am open to "I would do this" responses :)  Thanks!

Trunk battery install

All body panels hung one last time for the final block, then it's ready for paint.

Interior is going in.

Picture of double roller with eccentric.   I used an edelbrock chain kit as I think it was not as wide.   

The headers that came with the engine were not even close to fitting even with some tweaks, I was probably a bit optimistic there... They came in handy though, new headers made up following the same step design 1 3/4, 1 7/8 to  2" but the bends configured to fit easily. We able use the collectors too. Headers bolt on and off no problem at all and the rest of the exhaust finished as well. 

We spent a lot of time with these door panels from MP Products making them fit. :(

Been messing with the passenger side fender the past couple of days. I took a little more time getting the surface fairly flat but still have minor issues around the welds. Getting all the shrinking out of 20ga and not cutting through the part is difficult. Maybe with a little more practice I might get the hang of this metal working stuff. 

I rebuild the rear drum brakes and replaced the brake lines.

Good news today, next project, 70 Coupe with Landau top, got painted today. They still need to install top/trim, front/rear glass, and headliner, should be coming home in 2-3 weeks.
Looking forward to dropping in the FE and installing the headers, just shoot me now

A little update, engine wiring 99%done, fuel tank mounted, battery cradle modified and fitted, fan shroud made and fitted, air intake modified and fitted, just have some bonnet clearance issues to sort, first engine startup 

IMG_4958.MOV

On another topic. I have installed my Global West front suspension, CPP Granada front spindles disc brakes, power steering box, and stock linkage with Granada outer tie-rod ends. Also the rear is in with a Yukon center case, and Eaton TrueTrac with 3.70 gears in the stock nine inch with stock 28 spline axles. Also partially installed the CPP rear disc brake conversion kit.
Borrowed a set of 18 inch US Mag wheels with tires from a friend to check clearances before I buy my wheel and tires. I think they look great on my car. I might just have to keep them...Lol!
 




 

My slooooow progress. Roof to windshield area is done, now I can move to my nightmare - drip rails.

Hi A
well, summer is almost here and I’m getting short with my time for work on my stang. My second passion – MTB is calling me in woods J. Anyway, I am still waiting for left quarter panel to arrive from US. Meanwhile I was at least able to repair all other small corners I did not like...

Meanwhile in my garage....
I was considering repairing my old seat platforms, but there was no even one usable edge so I decided to build them. I am still not sure what seats I’m using so I went with standard mounting system.
After I took some time to design panhard bar mounts. It wasn’t easy without axle in the car, but I double checked everything (already with planned 1 inch drop) and have still some adjusting possibilities on design of the leaf bracket.
That is all I had to do on underbody, now I’m moving onto body panels, and until my quarterpanel patch arrives I’m sealing and coating underbody and engine bay.