mikee

So this is what I have been doing while I was waiting for my doors from NPD. I taught myself armoring. Back story.... I built myself a complete suit of armor (a couple years ago) for fun. Then this year I wanted to give my bosses something special for christmas so I made a helmet and stand and a pair of gauntlets. Both came out great. I shape the metal by hand with no heat. Helmet took 43 hours and the gauntlets took 19 hours. The helmet is modeled after a 13th century French Sallet style helmet. It's very comfortable. The interior is wrapped in foam and leather. The Bevor portion of the helmet is fixed to the stand but both pieces are movable. 
 
Hoping to get back to the car early next month.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

two pics from back in may of 2022 at a local event.  My dad drove the falcon and i drove the mustang.  it was great to have my dad take a car and have two hot rods there.
 

 

Hi Guys ... after a while (that felt like forever)
So my lesson learned - never judge engine after removing one cylinder head :)
After I took down the second one o found some scratches in cylinder 6 and suspicious spot in cylinder 7 that could be a crack. So my optimism was gone and I knew I have to disassembly whole endine. I made penetration test of cylinder 7 - and it came out that it was no crack. The biggest disappointment was then I realized that the engine is already 0.040 over. The bearings of connection rods were also destroyed as well as on crankshaft. 
I spent hours on net to browse 351w topics and videos, what are my possibilities. To bore it over to 4.060" is to risky, to sleeve it to expensive and to find some good block for reasonable price in europe is impossible. So I decided to just refresh the engine (hone the cylinders, re ring it and change all bearings, timing, cam, lifters and oil pump), put it together so I can finish the car. With finished hone I was able to get roundness and taper to factory specs, but my bore is up to 0,002 inch over the top limit. Anyway, no option at this time, at least the crank is 0,010 under so I can let it grind to 0,020 and balance. Im looking now for parts to order. Except piston rings and camshaft it should be no problem.  
Rings - I'm not sure if I buy 0,040 over rings the gap will be not too big (my worn rings make 0,026" gap). I'm thinking to buy 0,060s and grind them to size, but I don't know if the shape of rings is already different because of bigger diameter.
Camshaft - I can't find some stock cam or some alternative in any shop (everywhere is only edelbrock performer + )
 

Started wiring the switches.  Will be using some terminal blocks.
 

Sorry I’ve not posted in here for ages…
Car was more or less ready at end of September and was getting it ready for a large local show over here in England. Basically I never got there because ihas all sorts of issues with my C4, which I bought used and was supposed to have been rebuilt….needless to say it screwed up, so no show…
Collected the box and TQ today, so that will be going back in over next 2 weeks or so, when I get a spare moment.
In the meanwhile, I’ve been busy tidying up/fitting new interior parts eg one piece headliner, BMW E30 seats, 3 point sets belts, gauge pod etc and tidy up engine bay wiring etc 
chris 

A quick update:
1-the 408 stroker finally arrived in the crate across the pond after 9 month of delays, shipping issues etc
2-taken some times to get the various ancillary parts, shipping to U.K. is a real pain; JBA shorties etc 
3-engine fitted and hoping to fire it up in next 3/4 weeks 
4-just collecting the other parts to complete the car e.g  glass will go in next 2/3 weeks 
car is booked into a major U.K. classic car show on 10 `July so has to be ready, but not sure if I’m going to make it 
chris 

Hi everybody,
I started the most exciting part of my restoration – engine. My goal is nothing extraordinary, just to have reliable engine around 300-350 hp. I'd like to buy some top end kit in the future, but I can’t find anything reasonable anywhere around right now.  
Last time the engine worked was 6 years ago. As I remember, smoke was no issue, and it did run … For condition check I made cold compression test, no additional cylinder lubrication, the max. pressure was achieved after 3-4 cranks. My readings were from approx. 168 to 180 psi – what I think is pretty good. Even condition of cylinder is not so bad – the crosshatch pattern is still noticeable, and I didn’t feel any step on top of the cylinder in end position area of first piston ring. On lifters is almost none wear visible.
What’s your opinion please: Can I leave the rotation assembly as it is (crank, cam, pistons), or should I replace some parts anyway? I don’t know the condition of timing chain yet.
At this point I’m thinking to just reseal whole engine (inc. frost plugs) and just slightly port heads (remove and open overhangs on openings edges) and leave it as it is. Anyway, I think my next upgrade will be just EFI for better cold start and smoother engine run, until I start something more serious with replacing for T5 transmission.
Thanks for you suggestions...

Tonight I worked on getting the remnants of the roof off the car.  Spot weld cutter front and back, and a death wheel used as a grinder on the sides.  I still have the passenger side to do.  @viperpete I am attaching the photo of my front floor support pin.  Its the one I was talking about in message.  I think maybe that hole isnt meant for the X measurement.  I think I need to remove it and go with a flat plate like you have at the very front of the floor support.

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia.
Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display.
Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans
My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next
 
 
 
 for my interior lights

Just finished this one ,i have made several but i have yet to see a pic of it on the car finished .
@newstang

Just finished my light panel for rear fog, reverse and license plate light. Will be mounted in rear bumper notch and is all LED.  After I saw YT video from AtotopiaLA with Mercury Comet crashing because of brake failure, I decided to converse emergency brake to floor mounted that I'm more used to. Nice Lokar kit is way to expensive, so I'm going cheaper way:
  

Thanks Bob, thats nice saying :)

looking great so far, love the paint work.

Nice progress. Good job and thinking on the seal lip install. Rebuilding auto trannies isn't too difficult, organization and cleanliness are essential. A guy once said, if someone is smart enough to design a transmission, I should be smart enough to rebuild it. 
 

Short update...
So, thanks Bob, Kens videos are great, and to work on transmission with them really fun! My front band had to be replaced / relined so I decided to buy a flexible band. Unfortunately, use of this type of band requires other strut (as for 1972-73 fmx), so I’m still not able to assembly the trany – waiting parts to come. Maybe it might help someone, so I’m posting a picture how I solved installation of direct drum piston. I used thin plastic flowerpot (cut flash at bottom ad left some rest above for pulling it out) to press the seal ring, inserted inside the drum and by constantly pressing on piston I slowly removed the pot strip.
Till struts arrive I started to rebuild side louvres an rewire the car.

I used an Optima battery with an off road mounting bracket.  I also mounted my main disconnect switch, maxi fuse, and starter solenoid there.  Will post some pics and a diagram of my power distribution and grounding systems fyi.  Used military surplus Hummer battery cables, found on Ebay.  
I used large welding size cables and crimped/heat shrink my own lugs for the main power feed and starter feed.
 










Power Distribution.pdf starter power wiring.pdf ground bus distribution.pdf

Hi all
I'm going to be documenting the entire rebuild. This is my time doing this so be gentle. Haha.
 

After a while some parts arrived to my eshop, so I was able to start put the car together. I bought Scott Drake lowering kit for rear end, installed tank and sending unit and modified tail lights with LED modules.   

I know. No updates.  There was a reason.  I was finishing dads car.  1969 Dodge Dart 340 Swinger.  Got it aligned and wheels installed.  Here she is after her first bath in decades.

We’ll after having it for 13 years and rebuild over the last eight,she’s finally registered and driving , it’s been a long road.

Broken heating housing repaired, and restored with new seals, finally all upholstery done and tadaaaaa. after 5 years back on own wheels!

Broken heating housing repaired, and restored with new seals, finally all upholstery done and tadaaaaa. after 5 years back on own wheels!

Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect.  I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff.  Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.
 

So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better