Boss429Dreamer
-
Content Count
39 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Posts posted by Boss429Dreamer
-
-
This is very tempting. I removed the Flaming River tilt column I had because the stock wheel didn't work with it, and I wasn't a fan of the manual rack as well.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
I'll echo what others have said, junk that bracket and find the correct setup.
-
It's possible the roll pin for the distributor drive pin sheared and that would cause that problem. I would try the distributor first, before changing all the other items to verify that's the problem. Another possibility is the timing chain gears/chain may have jumped a few teeth. I would verify TDC on #1 cylinder compression stroke, remove dist. cap and see if rotor is pointing to #1 contact.
-
I would think it should have the deluxe interior (door panels). The rim blow steering wheel is trashed. A lot of overspray, on the white letter tires and is that overspray on the end of the dash pad or just a reflection? Looks like a massive oil leak at the front of engine. Most Mach 1's I've seen have the chrome trim along the rockers. Don't know if that was an option. Good luck getting 115K.
-
On 6/14/2022 at 10:51 AM, jerrywmalcolm said:to boss429dreamer, where did you get the quartz conversion kit?
One of the Mustang parts vendors, I believe it was NPD. Glad you got your clock working, hopefully it will continue to run. Mine didn't.
-
19 hours ago, RPM said:Mine too, just for not very long :)
I even filed the points. Guess I suck.
Me too. I have the quartz conversion kit, just have to install it. Will do that with my heater box rebuild.
-
Check this out: Mustang Tach Cluster (boss302.com) I did this to my car, works great. I am running original points distributor so don't know if it will work with HEI setup.
-
NPD? They show as out of stock but NC has one? Repop so quality questionable.
-
After a quick search on Mike's Carburetors website, I found the C9 float setting is 3/8" and the D4 is 7/16". I looked up the instructions on rebuild kits for both carb no.'s. That's a 1/16" difference so you may be ok with either.
-
I believe the turn signal switch in the steering column is also part of the circuit. Maybe that?
Len69Coupe reacted to this -
Wow! Nice find. Talk about being in the right place at the right time...
-
I would hazard to guess it's the headlight dimmer switch in the floor. But just my guess/opinion. I will follow this to see what fixes it. Good luck.
-
Well if I were not showing the car in Concours car shows I'd go with the Holley "fix" and drive on. JMO
-
Camber is adjusted via the eccentric on the lower control arm on a '69. But I am far from an expert on alignment.
-
I know there was an option for warning lights that were in the lower dash, near the ignition switch. Maybe for that?
-
I think you need to send it off for repair. Like previously mentioned, Rocketman, or Tachman. I had mine rebuilt and tested by Tachman and it works great.
-
7 hours ago, Past Time said:Here's a picture looking down from the engine bay by the brake booster. Does the E Bar look bent to you? I'm getting the feeling this may be where my bind is.
Yes, it does seem bent. It should be perpendicular to the frame rail.
-
About the pedal sitting up high, I think this is normal. Mine sits high too, and being concerned about it I looked at many cars that were for sale to see pictures of the clutch pedal. All that I saw looked that way. I wouldn't worry about it.
-
Crawled up under mine and took a look. Same setup as yours. I think the jam nut keeps the adjustment from moving. I found a link to the Ford shop manual. That's how I adjusted my clutch, but I'm afraid it's time to replace mine. Try this link: how to adjust clutch linkage | Vintage Mustang Forums (vintage-mustang.com)
-
I believe the Edelbrock Performer is equivalent to the cast iron beast on our 351W. From what I've read...
-
Just spent the last 2 hours reading this thread. What an uplifting story and re-news my interest in getting my car back on the road.
Guillaume69 reacted to this -
-
Another thought about this radiator issue: You have a 302 which I believe has a shorter block than the 351W. Do you think that this height difference could be the problem? Maybe the water pump is lower, thus a lower fan? Like I said earlier I did the swap on my 351 with no problem.
-
1 hour ago, 1969_Mach1 said:I've done one non-tach IP to a factory tach IP conversion on a 1969. I won't do that again. There are a lot of wiring changes like Midlife mentioned to get it correct. Then the speedo, fuel, and temp gauges are unique only to the factory tach IP so are extremely expensive to replace if needed. The instructions on Boss302.com don't address all the required wiring changes so the alternator light in the factory tach IP will work correctly.
I'd go this option as well if you want something factory on a not factory tach IP. They are being reproduced and should also work with new electronic ignitions.
Yes, the alternator light doesn't work. But an alternator light or gauge has never helped me neither. And all the wiring changes are done at the plug, other than the one splice that you have to make. And changing all the wiring forward of the tail light harness mentioned by "Midlife"? Not true.
Mufflers…again
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Driver, you are the original owner, why not leave it original? Forget all those high$ mods. My car had the exhaust system you are talking about getting when I bought it. Pulled it all out and put in an original (repop) system with the transverse muffler and now it's nice and quiet, compared to what it was. Just my opinion.