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Everything posted by Boss429Dreamer

  1. It's possible the roll pin for the distributor drive pin sheared and that would cause that problem. I would try the distributor first, before changing all the other items to verify that's the problem. Another possibility is the timing chain gears/chain may have jumped a few teeth. I would verify TDC on #1 cylinder compression stroke, remove dist. cap and see if rotor is pointing to #1 contact.
  2. I would think it should have the deluxe interior (door panels). The rim blow steering wheel is trashed. A lot of overspray, on the white letter tires and is that overspray on the end of the dash pad or just a reflection? Looks like a massive oil leak at the front of engine. Most Mach 1's I've seen have the chrome trim along the rockers. Don't know if that was an option. Good luck getting 115K.
  3. One of the Mustang parts vendors, I believe it was NPD. Glad you got your clock working, hopefully it will continue to run. Mine didn't.
  4. Me too. I have the quartz conversion kit, just have to install it. Will do that with my heater box rebuild.
  5. Check this out: Mustang Tach Cluster (boss302.com) I did this to my car, works great. I am running original points distributor so don't know if it will work with HEI setup.
  6. NPD? They show as out of stock but NC has one? Repop so quality questionable.
  7. After a quick search on Mike's Carburetors website, I found the C9 float setting is 3/8" and the D4 is 7/16". I looked up the instructions on rebuild kits for both carb no.'s. That's a 1/16" difference so you may be ok with either.
  8. I believe the turn signal switch in the steering column is also part of the circuit. Maybe that?
  9. Wow! Nice find. Talk about being in the right place at the right time...
  10. I would hazard to guess it's the headlight dimmer switch in the floor. But just my guess/opinion. I will follow this to see what fixes it. Good luck.
  11. Well if I were not showing the car in Concours car shows I'd go with the Holley "fix" and drive on. JMO
  12. Camber is adjusted via the eccentric on the lower control arm on a '69. But I am far from an expert on alignment.
  13. I know there was an option for warning lights that were in the lower dash, near the ignition switch. Maybe for that?
  14. I think you need to send it off for repair. Like previously mentioned, Rocketman, or Tachman. I had mine rebuilt and tested by Tachman and it works great.
  15. Yes, it does seem bent. It should be perpendicular to the frame rail.
  16. About the pedal sitting up high, I think this is normal. Mine sits high too, and being concerned about it I looked at many cars that were for sale to see pictures of the clutch pedal. All that I saw looked that way. I wouldn't worry about it.
  17. Crawled up under mine and took a look. Same setup as yours. I think the jam nut keeps the adjustment from moving. I found a link to the Ford shop manual. That's how I adjusted my clutch, but I'm afraid it's time to replace mine. Try this link: how to adjust clutch linkage | Vintage Mustang Forums (vintage-mustang.com)
  18. I believe the Edelbrock Performer is equivalent to the cast iron beast on our 351W. From what I've read...
  19. Just spent the last 2 hours reading this thread. What an uplifting story and re-news my interest in getting my car back on the road.
  20. I agree with 1969_Mach1. It's the wrong manifold. I looked at mine (1969 351W 4v) and it has a 1/2" of clearance. Attached pic.
  21. Another thought about this radiator issue: You have a 302 which I believe has a shorter block than the 351W. Do you think that this height difference could be the problem? Maybe the water pump is lower, thus a lower fan? Like I said earlier I did the swap on my 351 with no problem.
  22. Yes, the alternator light doesn't work. But an alternator light or gauge has never helped me neither. And all the wiring changes are done at the plug, other than the one splice that you have to make. And changing all the wiring forward of the tail light harness mentioned by "Midlife"? Not true.
  23. I have a non-tach 69 Mach1 too, and I picked up a tach dash on eBay. I had all the gauges and tach rebuilt by Tachman and then installed it per the instructions on the Boss302.com website. Look it up under the "Tech Articles" link on that website. Was relatively easy to do and it works fine.
  24. If it's the original matching numbers engine I would rebuild it. Just depends on how original you want it to be.
  25. Did you get the lower radiator brackets and insulators? The larger radiator does not bolt to the radiator support like the smaller radiator. I did the swap on my Mach 1 and it makes a huge difference in the cooling. Good luck.
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