Happystang

Does the knob just pull off?

How is this removed?! Can't seem to find anything....

I agree, I love the these cars for the same reason. However, when it comes to safety items, I don't think one should be concerned about hurting value. 3 point belts, disc brakes etc..

Nothing wrong with upgrades in the sense of safety and to make it more drivable. All the changes you've listed can be easily reversed. Not that I would reverse them though ;)

Update!! It's indeed BENT down! Took it to 3 body shops, all agreed with me that the windshield post is bent down. Going back in a few days to get a quote...

**forgot to mention, all the body panels line up great, door panels open and close with no problem

#%^#@%^# 90% sure that my windshield post is bent down on the passenger side See my little diagram courtesy of Microsoft paint. I can grab that area with the arrow of the windshield post and actually push up and make the door window gap line up perfect with the windshield post. I'm going to take it to a body shop and see what they think. Looks like a porta power would move everything back into place. This explains a lot if the windshield post is indeed bent down a bit on that side. IE the gap between the windshield trim and the fender, why the top is really hard to latch on that side (I have to pull the top down so it reaches the windshield post), and there's a gap between the windshield and header panel trim where it looks like they tried to build it up with something under the header trim on that side to make things look even. What would cause this? Looks like someone was sitting on the header panel or the hood flew up and hit the windshield? There is absolutely no way that the angle of the windshielf post and door would ever fit the angle of the way the glass is cut in the front. I had this problem with the '69 glass before, I attributed it everything just being FUBAR with the old parts. Ps ignore my rust holes

Okay, I've adjusted the window so the top of the window is level with the bottom of the roof weather stripping. It appears that my windshield post is bent down? It doesn't look like this would ever fit unless the windshield is pushed about 1/2 inch upward. It doesn't follow the angle of the window, even with the weather stripping removed. Picture 1: No gap at all, window corner touching the windshield post. Picture 2: 3/4 inch gap from window to windshield post. Picture 3: Top of window level with roof weather strip. I already have the window pushed as far back as it can go per the adjustments allow. Still this! What gives??

Thank you so much!! I ended up using some epoxy per a local mustang shop here to glue them in, worked great! Just installed all the glass! The drivers side fit no problem, everything lines up and works perfectly. The passenger side however is giving me a VERY hard time. None of the windows lined up on both sides to begin with when I got the car. Problems I'm dealing with: Quarter window wiggles around forward and back a bit, causing the back of the glass to snag on the weather stripping. **forward as in moving towards the front of the car. Not side to side as in parallel to the car. I think it's the bushings that keep the window in the track are going bad, but how are these replaced? They seem glued to their little posts. Also, I have the tilt adjustment on the quarter window maxed out and it's still pointing too far inwards and not lining up with the weather stripping. The passenger door window's tilt (the one that's parallel to the car) has been adjusted to its max. IE the regulator bolt is pushed all the way to the top of its adjustment. Still not making a good seal against the windshield post. There is a 1/4 inch gap between the door window and the roof weather strip. It looks like the window is at the right height, as the top of the glass is even with the end of the windshield post weather stripping. The window refuses to go any higher without having issues closing the door. The weather stripping is new except for the windshield posts, it's like $130 A SIDE for the '69 convertible. One thing to note, the passenger side of the convertible top sits a little higher than the drivers side. I have to pull down on the top a bit on the passenger side so the top will reach the windshield post to latch down properly. Once in everything seems fine. Just very hard to latch and unlatch that side.

Okay, how close does the window have to be in the channel? I know the front ones on the '69 glass for the channel is like one inch from the front of the window. I don't want to glue the window in the wrong way :)

Anyone?

Just made a killing today picking up some parts. I currently have a '69 convertible and want to change over to the bolt in glass. I found a guy parting out a '69 and '70 coupe. The '70 had all the glass in it in perfect shape! From the '70: Both doors with all the bolt in glass and mechanisms inside it Both quarter windows with mechanisms Frame rail to valance brackets From the '69: 16:1 steering box with pitman arm Bought all of the above for $350! Very pleased. Anyways, few questions about the '70 glass. I see that the quarter window gets glued in as well. The passenger side quarter window's glue failed. What glue do you all use to reattach them? Also, is there a specific measurement for the it ['70 quarter window] to be glued back into bracket? (Don't know the technical term for it) And lastly, what's the going price for '69 coupe/convertible glue in glass/mechanism? I have a full set in good condition. The door glass has the factory greenish tint, the quarter ones are clear.

I always thought in stock form these cars had fairly decent ride quality. It was only until I started modifying the suspension that the ride quality became a little more harsh. Still tolerable, but nowhere near stock feel. The 620 lowering springs are harsh as is. Cut them a bit and you should be calling a chiropractor:)

I ended up ordering 17x8's all around! Coys had a sale and I took advantage of it :)

Thank you!!

Thank you!!

Decided on the Coy C67 or Ultra 454 wheels for my '69 convertible. I'm getting 17x8 for the front and 17x9 for the back. Now, here's the problem. Ultra brand only makes a 17x8 and it has a 4.25 backspace. From what I've read you want more backspace to stuff the wheels further into the wheel well. Coy's have have a 4.75 inch back spacing for the 17x8 and 5.5 inch for the 17x9 wheels. This is ideal, no? More backspacing? I have 4.5 leaf mid eye springs in the back. My suspension is just slightly lower than stock, still a decent wheel gap with the 15x7 wheels I have now. Coy's are more expensive and have to be ordered from the manufacturer directly, person I spoke to said it would be 2 weeks till it got to my house. The Ultra's from what I've seen will fit, but they're not as tucked in as I'd like into the wheel wells. I found this article with a '69 fastback that has the 17x8 and 17x9 combo that I'm looking into. However don't the fastbacks have wider quarter panels vs the coupe and convertible? Page 2 - Daytona Mustang Club - 1969 Ford Mustang - Modified Mustangs & Fords And as for tires, would a 275 be asking for too much out back? Coy C67: Coy's Custom Wheel & Tire Ultra 454: Ultra Wheel 454-7865SU, Ultra 454 Grey w/ Diamond Cut RWD Wheels | Ultra Wheel Pretty much the exact same design.

Decided on the Coy C67 or Ultra 454 wheels for my '69 convertible. I'm getting 17x8 for the front and 17x9 for the back. Now, here's the problem. Ultra brand only makes a 17x8 and it has a 4.25 backspace. From what I've read you want more backspace to stuff the wheels further into the wheel well. Coy's have have a 4.75 inch back spacing for the 17x8 and 5.5 inch for the 17x9 wheels. This is ideal, no? More backspacing? I have 4.5 leaf mid eye springs in the back. My suspension is just slightly lower than stock, still a decent wheel gap with the 15x7 wheels I have now. Coy's are more expensive and have to be ordered from the manufacturer directly, person I spoke to said it would be 2 weeks till it got to my house. The Ultra's from what I've seen will fit, but they're not as tucked in as I'd like into the wheel wells. I found this article with a '69 fastback that has the 17x8 and 17x9 combo that I'm looking into. However don't the fastbacks have wider quarter panels vs the coupe and convertible? Page 2 - Daytona Mustang Club - 1969 Ford Mustang - Modified Mustangs & Fords And as for tires, would a 275 be asking for too much out back? Coy C67: Coy's Custom Wheel & Tire Ultra 454: Ultra Wheel 454-7865SU, Ultra 454 Grey w/ Diamond Cut RWD Wheels | Ultra Wheel Pretty much the exact same design.

It was a nice day at the beach the other day! Surf sucked, the view was nice :)

Thank you! I used to have Cherry Bomb Turbos. They sounded awesome! I actually ended up changing them out for some Walker Sound FX mufflers. I think it's the exact same design as a turbo muffler but with a larger casing. I'm sure I could uncork a little but more power with some free flowing mufflers, but I daily drive this and it would get too loud with the four speed and 3.55s on the freeway. Can't beat the price at $20 each either! Put the seat belts back in, installed a new steering column to firewall seal and screwed down the console. Done! For now... The steering column seal made a HUGE difference in how loud the noise is in the cabin of the car. Significantly brought the sound level down. I'm not impressed with the carpet I bought from CJ's... The front piece is cut a few inches to short. Not cool!

Finished the front frame rail today! As you can see it was a bit worse for wear... (It was toast) The side and the bottom were trashed so I had to fabricate something. The frame rail patch for the bumper I got was super long so I cut it up to patch the bottom as well. Just like I did with the seat belt anchors, I put down an extra bead of weld around the capture nuts for the bumper. As you can tell, this piece is almost unrecognizable. It's what's left of the bracket that goes in the frame rail combined with whatever chunks were floating around in there... Painted it all with Zero Rust The patch tacked in place... This piece of the front crossmember/radiator support was toast as well so I cut it out with the bottom the frame rail. I fabricated a little patch complete with holes for plug welds to make the repair look more seamless. All ground down. I need to come back and fill in some pin holes and maybe make things look a bit better, but for now it's good enough lol. There should also be an oval drain hole that I need to replicate at some point as well. Done! I ground down the rest of the welds and painted the repair black. I actually put the rest of the car back together and drove it today!!! I still need to pull the steering column back out and install the new seal I ordered. The sound deadener made a huge difference, the car is much more quiet in the cabin. Having some actual structure in the car is pretty great too! Definitely feels more solid on the road :) I have a few little odds and ends to finish up, but that's for another post. I'll keep you all updated with the finished product! Thanks for tagging along :)

Yeah, just fired mine up today. Felt sooooo good! Thank you!! Honestly it's not that bad of a job, just takes a lot of discipline to make sure you do things right the first time. This is my first really big welding and fabricating job. I think I did alright! So close yet so far :) I still have to reassemble the car, fix the front frame rail where the bumper mounts and eventually tackle the trunk... The trunk will probably wait until I go to paint the car. I need to drill some spot welds that would show through the tail light panel. Don't want patches of primer showing on the outside... (nothing wrong with primer, it's cool!) More from today... Welded in the parking brake bracket. I actually have one now!! The first time I tried using the parking brake when I got the car was hilarious. I pressed the pedal and it ripped out the bracket from the floor. It was just dangling there so I ended up just tearing it completely out in the middle of a parking lot. :skullnbones: I put down sound deadener as well. It's a combination of Boom Mat and peel and seal from Lowe's :) Also test fit the carpet. Looks MUCH better than the old clapped out carpet that came in the car. It's going to look good with the console and rest of the interior. Also ground down some more welds under the car and painted it all black. No way I was going to leave it silver. I'd get to pissed every time I'd drive through a puddle and get mud over the shiny paint :) I think the repair is fairly seamless. Could never tell I did all that work from underneath! (that's what I was going for lol) Not pictured, but I removed the carpet, installed one seat and the steering column so I could drive the car into the garage. Moved it a whopping 20 feet, but it still felt good to be driving it again!! Missed that cam lope at idle lol...

I DIDN'T MESS UP!!! Put the car on all fours, cut out the bracing and put the door back on. Everything opens and closes still!!! YAYYY. I'm so happy! So much relief, a huge weight off my shoulders. I was freaking out about my door not closing at first. Aligning those things is ridiculously difficult.. Luckily I drilled a located hole in the top hinge which helped things out a lot. The door was still giving me some trouble and I started panicking. Then I remembered something I did with my falcon. The door on that car had the same symptoms I was having. I sprayed some PB blaster into the latch then tried again. Perfect! Opens and closes fine now. Guess it dried out from the lack of use? All the door gaps are perfect. I seam sealed everything up and painted the underside of the car semi gloss black. I still need to take some more pictures and grind a couple welds under the car.. But the hard stuff is done for the most part. I also put all the metal I pulled out of the car into one bin. Whole lot of ugly! Tomorrow I'm going to tackle the front frame where the bumper mounts and install the fuel system. I want to hear this beast run again! Oh and that bolt that's holding on the seat belt is seized so it's going to disappear via death wheel. I ordered new seat belt bolts, steering column seal, steering column seal bolts and brake line/fuel line fasteners. Probably going to place some more orders.... Depending on how much I get done tomorrow, I might start installing the interior. We'll see!

Lot's of progress today, should be done soon with the floors!! I've had to make sooo many trips to get my shielding gas tank filled... I made all the holes for the parking brake cables to run through and welded in the reinforcement pans. I did clean up the cuts for the parking brake, they look kinda ugly in the pictures. They kinda fit... Took a lot of massaging from a BFH. The holes for the seat don't line up at all. There's just enough clearance to access the seat bolts. Oh, no one would notice unless I told them but... The passenger side pan is about a quarter inch further up than the drivers side. Guess I better sell the car, it's defective! :skullnbones: Who wants a '69 convertible? Anyways, painted the floor as well... I hate waiting for paint to dry. Tomorrow the seat pans go in along with misc grinding of welds. Going to stop by NAPA and pick up some seam sealer. Heard they have good stuff? We'll see!

I'm actually surprised there was any floor left to cut out, seeing as that most of it was bare metal exposed to the elements!! Thank you so much for the kind words, definitely appreciated :) Floor is 95% welded in, there are a couple of plug welds I still need to address towards the wheel housing. I'm starting to grind down the welds as well!! I'm VERY happy how the floor came out so far. It needed a little persuasion via hammer around the shifter area and transmission tunnel, but that's okay. I also cut the seat pans and fit them to the car. Because they're for a coupe, the edges needed to be clearanced to fit around the inner rocker. Next I'm going to to paint the whole floor in zero rust. I'm going to go underneath the car and paint the frame rails as well as anywhere I welded. From here I'll put seam sealer and more zero rust atop that. I gotta still make some cuts in the reinforcement pans for the parking brake and drill more holes for to plug weld them in. Joy! Oh and I still need to address the front frame rail where the bumper mounts... Gahh more work lol...